gbhrps

q240z, I'd pull the heads and see if just the gaskets needed replacing, and if so, just replace them. If it really is a blow piston, I'd be tempted to track down a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) used engine and pop it in. They're always low mileage, very well priced, and depending on where you buy it, they are warranteed as well. Good Luck!

fstour, I forgot to add....use some antisieze compound on the face of the hub where the wheel studs stick out, but NOT ON THE STUDS themselves, before you put the rotor back on, and the next time you go to take it off will be a snap.

fstour, Never replaced any rear rotors yet, but had them off last week on my 02 OBW. Pull the wheel, undo the caliper bolts and lift off the caliper. With the emergency brake off, take a hammer and lightly tap the BODY of the rotor to break it free of the hub assembly, if it is rusted in place. IF it won't come off after several hammer blows (don't overdo it and bend the rotor out of shape) use WD40 to spray around the centre of the bearing hub of the rotor and into the 2 threaded holes in the rotor face where the studs come out (they are 180 degrees across from each other). Using the two bolts that fastened the caliper, put one into each hole and, by switching from one to each other in turn, tighten them into the holes until you can free the rotor from the hub. Be sure to only tighten these bolts until the end of their threads, as they are rather short. Now, put the bolts back into their original locations and rethread them again, and then remove them again, as their threads may be stretched somewhat from removing the rotor. (If you have any doubts about their ability to do their job holding the caliper in place when finished the job...REPLACE THEM!) Good luck!

andybiskin, There are only about 3 things that could prevent it unlocking if the electrical signal is getting to the actuator. Either something in the mechanism has corroded and is sticking, something has come undone, such as a clip holding the rod from the actuator to the lock assembly, or something is out of alignment. The only way to tell, is to pull the inside panel of the tailgate and watch the mechanism as you trip the mechanism with the remote or key. Something will definitely jump out as the culprit. To remove the panel, open the gate and pull/unscrew the plugs along its bottom. At that point just grab the panel alongside the glass firmly and pull away from the gate. You will feel and hear the hidden plastic plugs come undone. Keep pulling along its width and eventually the panel will release. The lock catch ON THE FLOOR OF THE CAR pushes the lock assembly in the tailgate causing it to rotate and swing around the floor catch, and lock when you close the gate. To duplicate the action, and lock the mechanism while the gate is up, take a screwdriver of the same or slightly smaller diameter of the floor catch, and push it sideways through the lock mechanism in the tailgate until the mechanism locks. Now actuate the lock mechanism to see how parts move in relationship to each other. You may find something bent, missing, or loose. Make your repairs. Check to ensure that all hidden plugs are correctly aligned in their slots of the panel before you try to push the panel back into place after repairs are made. Its been awhile, but I recall maybe 10 such plugs or so. It really is an easy DIYer. Good luck!

rkapp, Whoa!!! Do some searches on this topic before you replace the two tires! You may be forced to buy 4 instead. I believe that I've read many times on this forum that Subaru's all wheel drive system MUST have all 4 tires within a quarter of an inch of each other in circumference, or else you will do expensive damage to the system. That would pretty much dictate that all tires be of the same brand and have the same amount of wear. Don't quote me, but check first. Maybe someone else can jump in here and clarify?

tlr3, As well as what has already been suggested I would add the possibility of corroded or loose wiring connectors at the wiper motor and the CD player. Sometimes just disconnecting them, cleaning up the contacts and refastening them is all it takes to correct an electrical problem. Simple and cost effective. Try it. Good luck!

Absorka, I'm not familiar with the police in the area where you drive, but I can tell you that we have the same laws here in Southern Ontario, Canada. Even so, since 1986, both of my daily drivers have been professionally tinted as dark as can be accomplished on ALL windows, except the windshield. My wife and I have never been stopped by the police for excessive tinting wherever we have driven. Whenever I have been stopped, and at border crossing, or drinking driver stops during holiday periods, I have always put all the windows down before the officer got to the car, rather than give him the opportunity to take note of the tint. Yes, I know that some day I may pay the price and face a fine, but its already been 19 years!!!! I don't believe that the make of the tint is an issue, but I do believe that a reputable installation shop is a must. If you don't think so, just remember how many do it yourself installations you can spot where the tint is just nothing but bubbles! Do whatever your conscience allows you to do in your jurisdiction. If you go too dark and get caught, the worst is a fine and you have to strip off the front side windows and go back to the 35%. Me, I'll take the chance, but then again I'm retired, long past my tom-catting days, and have had a perfect driving record for years. (Maybe I'm just boring?) Good luck whichever way you go.

I like the idea of the Trbeca, love its interior, side and rear views, but if I live to be a thousand years old, you'd never get me to buy one based on the look of its front end. I shiver just to think of it. Did anyone notice that in the commercials you have all of these side and rear three quarter shots of the car, and only ONE view of its front end, at that is in the very last scene? Maybe even Subaru is afraid to draw attention to it. Can anyone say Edsel?

Johnb102, You'll have to systematically approach the leak. Start by pulling back the carpet on the driver's side. You may wish to go as far as to remove the seat as well. Mop up any water, climb into the car with a flashlight, and have a friend start to run a steady, low pressure stream of water from a garden hose along the back lower seam of the door at the B pillar, and slowly raise it up to the bottom of the door glass. Repeat the same procedure at the bottom of the door seam at the A pillar and raise it up to the level of the glass. If you haven't found the leak yet, you next start at the plastic vents below the wiper arms right at the A pillar and move towards the centre of the car. If you haven't found it yet, next is up the side of the A pillar at the glass and slowly across the top of the windshield. If it hasn't shown up by now, the only other place is the drains for the sunroof (if your car is so equipped). One goes down the inside of the A pillar, and the back one from the B pillar(?) The plastic tubes may have come disconnected from their drain connections at the top. Rarely, the water may come in from the back of the car, because its been parked on a downhill driveway, etc. The thing to remember is to start at the bottom and slowly move up until you see water inside. Then repairs may be as simple as caulking, new weatherstrip, a windshield reseal, or metal/rust repair. Good Luck!

SubeeTed, Years ago I had a rear bearing go on my 97 OBW under warranty. I watched the mechanic do the whole job in under 45 minutes. He removed the rear wheel, its rotor and caliper, removed the links from the rear hub, and pulled the hub assembly off the half axle shaft. The hub he put into a 10 ton press and pressed the bearing assembly out and the new one in, and then reversed the process. I never got a bill, but even doing both sides should be able to be done in under 2 hours labour. How expensive can 2 rear bearing assemblies be? I don't know but I'm guessing $300 CDN should do the whole job, but that's a guess. Hope this is of some help? Good luck!

Mark, Yes to both questions (I always do it that way), but go easy as you don't want heat buildup to have it run onto the pad surface.

Gentlemen, Not to befuddle the thread here, but is it possible that this "pinging" is really the dreaded piston slap inherent in Subie engines that some of you are hearing? My 97 OBW had the slap, but no pinging/preignition on regular 87 octane fuel. My 02 OBW has the slap on cold mornings until warmed up, but no pinging/preignition, again using 87 octane.

Mark, If one side is wearing more than the other, you'll usually find that the pads on that side are sticking/rusted in their slide channels and can't entirely release when you take your foot off the brake pedal. They are constantly wearing since they are always in contact with the rotor. The only other thing it could be is that the piston in the caliper on that side is sticking, because it is slightly rusted in place and not releasing entirely. The first one is an easy fix, the second isn't bad either, depending on whether the rust on the piston and the caliper bore can be cleaned up with 0000 steel wool. If the piston is badly scored, it'll need replacing, the caliper maybe as well. Good luck!

Outback_97, You have no apologies to make on tackling the job. Sometimes stuff like this just happens, and you are best served by taking the problem to someplace where they have the expertise to correct it. You've learned a great deal for the next time, when it will be that much easier. Hint: everytime I do a brake inspection/cleaning/pad replacement, etc. I always remove the caliper mounts. They are easier to cleanup off the car, and then when remounting them, I always use antiseize compound on the threads of the bolts. Then there are no surprises like you had the next time they need to come off. Be proud of the fact that you had the gumption to try the job yourself. A lot of people are too lazy to try, and rationalize that they are too busy to do the job. Then there are the ones who know their limitations and shouldn't try the job at all. Then there is you and me...the backyard mechanics who have been in the backyard a little while, but recognize when we are facing a situation where we're in over our heads, and take the solution to the experts. Keep your head up!

Bright1, I'll lay money on that rear caliper being partially seized up. Either the pad tips are seized/rusted in the grooves they slide in, or, and I'm betting this is the culprit coming up, you haven't flushed your brake system in quite a while and the piston is mildly rusted in its bore. The piston moves when you apply the brakes and you get no squeal, but because the piston is sticking on one side, or the pads can't slide back out of the way, due to the rust, it can't release entirely when you take your foot off the brake pedal and it screeches/squeals. Been there, done that! And it will heat up that caliper, the rotor and the entire wheel! You may be lucky as I was. I was able to pop out the piston, and because it wasn't too far gone, it cleaned up very well with 0000 steel wool. The caliper bore cleaned up nicely as well with the same steel wool. A GOOD flushing with clean brake fluid and I was able to reinstall the piston, lube and install the pads, bleed the entire system with new brake fluid, and everything was as good as new. Dig around back there and see what you find. Good Luck!

Spazz698, You seem to have answered your own question. You know you have the oil leak problem, you are obviously watching it closely so that it doesn't end up frying your engine, and the additional cost of a few quarts of oil until you can get the problem rectified, is the only way to go. Adding oil thickeners or additives will only compromise your drivetrain. I'd advise keeping a close watch on the problem and then getting it corrected as soon as you can do so. Maybe you should consider carrying a fire extinguisher with you, just in case. Question? Are you certain that your leak is from the headgasket and not the valve cover gaskets?

Adwolf1, About the only things you haven't mentioned doing recently are a brake pad and rotor check, and when the timing belt was last attended to. If those have recently been done, I would think that you are good to go. Some owners can get carried away. My belief is that you find a happy medium that takes care of the obvious problem areas, without becoming so paranoid that you spend more money on preventative measures than is warranted or necessary. With what you've done already, watch your tire pressures, your guages, and keep an ear out for strange noises that may develop, and you should find yourself in Vermont without any problems. Have a great adventure!

Takami826, Its been a few years, but my old 97 OBW LTD didn't have the woodgrain beezle around the radio and HVAC. The 98's did, and I purchased a set and replaced it myself. As I recall, I pulled the ashtray out, and the rectangular box that you could store sunglasses in. At that point getting down low, and using a shortie phillips screwdriver, you can remove the two screws that are at the bottom of the beezle when you look up. From there you pry out carefully the rest of the beezle by using a flat bladed screwdriver that has been taped to prevent it from scratching the plastic. Take your time and it will come out without any damage. You'll then see the 4 screws that should be removed to take out the radio. Put your gearshift into Low (to give you some room) and pull the radio forward until you can unplug the antenna and unclip the wiring harness. Good luck!

Georgefdg, I've not had your problem, but I have pulled my share of panels from various cars over the years, to repair speakers, rear wiper motors, etc. The Subie panel clips are readily available at auto parts stores. Just take one of yours with you in order to get the correct size. Yes, you will have to learn how to get intimate with the panels in question and how they come off, but with patience you can do the work yourself. Just search the various threads for panel removal of the front doors ( for repairing glass or door speakers) and the rear hatch (rear wiper motor repairs), in order to find the correct procedures. They are not difficult, and just get easier the next time you have to remove one. Good Luck!

Ericem, This is a pretty common problem as a car ages. The hinge pins at the front of the door wear and the door then sags. The test is to open the door and grab it with both hands. If you can lift the door up and down, the hinge pins are gone. If not, then the bolts where the hinges attach to the A pillar and the door itself have come loose. Either way, its usually a cheap fix, parts wise, but if you've never adjusted a door to fit the gaps front and rear, below and above, you'd best leave the job to a body shop. I can't say for sure if new hinge pins can be bought for a Subie, but they are readily available for the domestic cars at any auto parts dealer. If nothing is rotted out, you should find it an easy on the pocket book fix. Good luck!

Johnb102, I've redone mags for several of my cars over the years. The best results are had with the tires removed from the mags, but, with care, you can do them with the tires mounted. I use ordinary furniture stripper (after marking and recording the wheel weight location and weight on the tire with a grease pencil). The stripper won't touch the rubber tire at all, and after 10 minutes of working, is neutralised with water. Dress with googles, rainsuit and boots and use a pressure washer to remove all of the finish and paint. Some sections may need to be redone, if you didn't get enough stripper on it the first time, but only after the mags are dry. At this point various polishing compounds and hand drill mounted buffing wheels get rid of the corrosion. Then wipe the mag with alcohol to remove any left over wax from polishing, mask the tire carefully at the mag wheel edge with tape, cover the tire, and you are ready for paint, clear coat, or both. My results have been good enough to last many years, look great, and has been very easy on the wallet.

Minitransam, This may not work for you, but we like our setup. We have a collapsible holding cage in our 02 OBW for our Cocker Spaniel, that has fabric and screen sides. There is a zipper opening in the front, and screen sides all around. After folding down the rear seats, positioning the dog cage opening at the front armrest, I can lock the cargo cover in its usual location and it holds the cage from sliding for and aft. Open the passenger front door, fire the furry friend into his home, and we're good to go. He loves it, but then again he is a docile dog who doesn't chew things and is pretty well behaved. And if we leave him in the car for 10 minutes while fueling up, we can zip up the front to keep him from exploring. This way he knows his place, doesn't put nose prints on the glass, and isn't scratching panels or seats.

Hondasucks, First off....Honda makes a hell of a great vehicle. I've never owned one, but would if it weren't for the fact that our local dealer and I went through highschool together and he is a #@)**. If they made all of their cars allwheel drive, I'd have own more than one over the years. My 97 OBW did the same thing you describe to its driver's window. It turned out to be sandy grit trapped in carpet-like pad attached to a bracket inside the door that guides the window, about 14 inches from the front of the door. Changing out the glass is the only fix, and obviously changing the pad as well, which I'm sure you could remove from the old bracket. A material such as indoor/outdoor carpeting could be glued onto the bracket instead of what's already there.

Treeman, I can't help you with the valve clearance issue, since I'm not sure if they're hydraulic, adjustable with guages, or adjustable with shims. Here's hoping someone with that knowledge jumps in on the thread!

Treeman, With the age of your ride I would first look for the obvious things that can kill mileage, dragging brake caliper, soft tires, plugged air filter, old spark plugs, valve toerances off, etc. You may be surprised at what you do, or do not find. Just a thought.