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ekim, You may have stretched the cable, bent the bracket/s that hold the window regulator to the door, bent the window channel at the front or back of the door, or split the plastic mount plate that attaches the glass to the window regulator. Its also possible that it mat be fixable without needing new parts. You just won't know until you get the door panel apart and watch and wiggle the mechanism as it goes up and down. I would suspect that where the cable enters and exits the yellow plastic section of the regulator assembly has spring inserts that may be too compressed or broken and are allowing the slop?

hankosolder2, Here's a link to a FREE download of the full factory service manual for 2007: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2007/

FJ40Don, There are a great many code readers out there, but not every one of them will read every code for every vehicle made. I suggest you find someone with a better code reader (Pep Boys, O'Rielly's). The cheaper ones read only the basic codes for every manufacturer, but for some vehicles you need the maker's specific code reader.

Parker, From your explanation I suspect you may have a broken wire inside the rubber gaiter at the driver's door hinge area. Pull the rubber gaiter from the door and slide it towards the car body and check each of the wires for a break. Then slide the gaiter back into place and pull the other end from the body and check that half of the wire bundle. If that doesn't show up the issue, pull the driver's inner door panel and peal back the plastic weather shield. Find the connector on the door lock actuator and unplug it. Then with the ignition turned on, check to see if you get power at the connector when you press the door lock switch. If there is power then the actuator needs replacing. If no power, check the switch to see if there is power to the switch. That will trace things to tell if the problem is before the switch, after the switch, and if the actuator is good or bad. I have taken lock actuators apart that didn't work and fixed them myself. The most common issue being dirty brushes on the tiny motor. A quick cleaning and they were back in business. Zero dollars, and just my time. Good Luck!

OswaldtheBold, With that weight, and that speed ... you are good to go.

Bdamit, Actually three of the plugs look terrific for whatever mileage the car is at, which I suspect is a large number (always give us the year, model and mileage when asking assistance because it changes the answers you will get). Cylinder number 2 has an oil issue for sure, and that broken insulator didn't help either. Here in Canada I don't believe the Vivio was ever imported, so not much knowledge from this part of the world. But we wish you luck with the rebuild. Keep us posted! Gene

whynot, Here's the factory service manual for 1999, and its a FREE download. Download it (10 minutes) and save it and do some research through the electrical section under windows as well as the diagnostics section and see if your answers are there. Over the years I've done this so many times that I just can't involve myself as much as I used to. Your answers may well be there somewhere, but You'll have to do the work. Good Luck! http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1999/Service%20Manual/ Gene

whynot, Many electrical systems can reset themselves if the battery is disconnected for 10 minutes or so. I would wonder if this strange goings on might also. No guaranty, but its an easy fix if it does.

ricoc, You need to stay with your FIRST posting thread for this topic. Jumping to a new posting just confuses everyone. Anyone reading this thread doesn't know what you've already found and posted. Its very frustrating. Here's a link to the 2002 factory service manual (FSM). Its free to download. Search it and your answer is there. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2002/

Starlite, One has to assume that "under the steering wheel" means up under the lower dash where the steering column emerges. While I can't tell you specifically what the one connector is supposed to be connected to,I can tell you that it most likely is not going to be an issue. It really comes down to "do you have any dash or steering wheel mounted options that aren't working"? If everything is working as it should, the connector is most likely not connected to anything, because its for an option that you don't have installed on your car. Car manufacturers frequently have just one wiring harness made up for any particular model, that contains all of the connectors for all options. But in base models, and mid level models, some of the connectors lead nowhere because the heated steering wheel option, etc. is not sold on that particular model, so the connector remains empty. I suggest just crawling under the dash, and if you can't find the mate connector (it'll be the same colour of wire and will fit the connector perfectly) then just tape or zip tie it up out of the way. Over the years I've installed power seats in cars that didn't come from the factory with them. The wiring harnesses for the power seats were hidden under the carpet, and when I located power seats from a wreck, I simply plugged the power seat connectors together and had the seat option work perfectly.

Rooster2, Many items are a one time mounting on modern cars, with no thought given to replacement and removal. My advice would be to visit the wrecker's yard once more, and accept that there are 4 of these switches on the car. Pull one out and study it to see how it could be removed without doing any damage to it. That leaves you 3 more attempts at getting it right. If after this exercise you can't get one off without breaking it ... bite the bullet and get a new one from the dealer. Gene

A&pmech, I've been wrenching on cars for 50 years or more, and on subies since 1997. My last OutBack (2012) required having the same section removed to get at the reverse camera to repaint its bracket that was rusting and staining the tailgate paint. I haven't done a Forester, but it will be very similar. The tailgate interior panels come off first. They are all fastened on with pop plugs. Pry under the trim with a flat screw driver until you can get fingers underneath the piece, and pry it straight out from the steel tailgate frame. Top center section first, then both upper side pieces. From the bottom edge of the tailgate lower trim cover, remove the screws for the handle if there are any (under a small plastic cover), then pry all sides of the lower cover and pop it off a short distance. Reach in behind the cover and disconnect wiring to tailgate switch on cover panel. When you go to reinstall these panels, line up the plugs with their holes and slap the panels back into place with the palm of your hand. (don't forget to reconnect that switch wire.) Prop the tailgate up with a hockey stick and remove the bolts for the gas shocks to the tailgate (leave other ends attached). Pop off the trim panels that cover the inner edges of the tailgate next to the gas shock anchor points (should pull off with maybe a screw or acorn nut.) Most of that exterior panel you want to remove is held on by 10 or more 10 mm nuts with integrated washers on the nuts. There will be 3/4 inch round holes through the steel tailgate that gives access to them. You will need a 10mm LONG socket with an extension to reach them. Once removed the panel may also have 2 or 3 pop plugs on each side and should pull straight off. Reach in behind the panel and disconnect wiring to license plate bulbs, and switches for the gate unlock switch and lock switch. At that point, it will be obvious what needs removing and how the parts come off. Replacement is just the reverse. Take your time, and take lots of pictures if you're not used to this kind of work. Its not rocket science, but don't get rammy and break trim plug mounts. Any plugs that stayed in the steel tailgate on removal of the trim piece, pop them out, slide them back into the trim piece before you try putting the trim panel back on. Good Luck! Gene

Souperoo, I can appreciate your tackling the internals of a multi disc CD unit to find a fix. I've done a few of them myself over the years, mainly finding broken rubber drive belts to various load and drive mechanisms. Its not difficult work, just time consuming ... and a challenge. All those tiny screws and ribbon cables. I would suggest that you find another unit in a wrecking yard, and either swap out your unit, or use it to scavenge parts from to get yours working again. I would imagine any model subie from the same age as your car would have Radio units that came from the same supplier, hence the same internals or close to it. Good Luck!

stupkabe, If your old 2012 radio didn't have a lock code requirement, a used one for the same year won't either, if its from the USA. You should have no problem finding the same unit in a wrecking yard somewhere close to home. I'd sure try there first.

Markuss, You need to recheck that the battery is connected correctly, and that the new cables are as well. When that's done, open the fuse box under the hood and start checking the large fuses, 50 amp main fuse, and so on down. The large ones are the culprits if nothing electrical on the car works, assuming there isn't a main harness that has melted down. There may also be heavy wires, really fuseable links that have fried and need replacing. If you can't isolate the items I've suggested here as the problem, .... you will need a good mechanic to trace down your issue. Good Luck!

Carmen5184, Imdew is correct. Find a wreck from the same generation in a junk yard and you can save hundreds. Realize that if you're handy, there are only 4 bolts/nuts that hold the glass to its mechanism. Undo them, being careful to keep the shims underneath the glass roof for their replacement in the same locations when you put the new glass in place. (shims put the glass at the correct height to match the steel roof opening) I've replaced/repaired many of these over the years, and its not rocket science. Here's a source (FREE) for a download of the factory service manual. Copy the link into your browser, click Forester, find your year and download the entire service manual. Then check the sunroof section to see what I mean. Its page 3125 or SR-5 (sun roof 5). Good Luck! jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru

Bob, Here's the FSM files for downloading per your request. Do some searching. Its there somewhere. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2001/ Good Luck!

Gentlemen, I guess I'll have to wait until the spring when I install the factory mags and tires. If I don't see a dash TPMS light at start up, I'll stop into a subie dealership and see what they have to say.

Ladies and gentlemen. I've been running my winter tire and steel wheel setup, which has no valve stem TPMS transmitters. So why do I not have the TPMS light on the dash lit up to tell me I have an issue? Every subie I've previously owned, that had a TPMS system, would light up all winter long, until I reinstalled my factory summer tires and wheels in the spring. Has Subaru changed the system on this 2017 OBW Premier with Eyesight and the Tech Package?

nitpikker247, This isn't being nitpikky, but knowing what year, model, mileage and options (manual/automatic) often narrows down where we need to start when diagnosing an issue. Until we have that, its a crap shoot.

kennycoulter, Here you go: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Once that link has loaded click on the Legacy/Outback, then the year, then the Service Manual, and on to the H6. From there just download the sections of the manual you require, as everything is there and its free. Good Luck!

1 Lucky Texan, The ABS pump harness connection is quite large, about two inches wide, and has a large swing lock to hold it in place on the pump body. There are two harnesses that come out of the connector, one going to one of the main engine wiring harnesses. The other taped up harness is very thin, too thin for any kind of diagnostics to my way of thinking, and ends in a simple two pin wiring connector to ... nowhere. With all of the options on this car, I can't think of any system that the ABS pump would feed into that hasn't already been wired to. Then again, maybe Subaru uses this same ABS pump on its 6 cylinder and diesel OBW power plants. It really doesn't matter because it is obviously taped up by the factory, so I'm pretty sure nothing is missing that should be under the hood. I'm just curious as to what application the extra harness could possibly be used for.

Ladies & Gentlemen, Recently acquired Canadian Premier with all of the toys, has a taped up wiring harness underneath the front of the ABS pump. It appears to be about 18 inches long or so with a grey snap on connector at its end, and its factory. What could it possibly be connected to on a car with Eyesight and the total tech package? And its not from a block heater, or it would have a grounded three prong electrical plug at its end, which it does not.

Robert29, This link is to free factory service manuals for just about all years and models of subies.: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Find the model and then click the year, and with some searching you'll most likely find what you need. Good Luck!

backout, Welcome to the present where the modern automobile is filled to the brim with battery killers. I'm going through this same scenario with my wife's 6 year old Lexus. She was still working when it was purchased, but now retired, we're finding it might get an hour's useage once a week or so. And its not sufficient to keep the battery completely charged (new battery/charging system fully checks out). I'm finding that about every 6 weeks I have to trickle charge the car overnight, in order to keep the car dependable at starting. As for the cold's affect on the battery level, you could go for a larger battery, but maybe a better solution is a block heater. I know that I'm installing one in my 2017 OutBack Premier as soon as possible. I've owned 4 OBW LTD's before this present one, the first 3 of which came with factory block heaters installed. Why my last 2012 and this new 2017 don't is puzzling. Maybe subie is cutting back on costs. I also own a 2016 Nissan 370z Roadster which will never in its lifetime be winter driven. Guess what I found in the wiring harness under the hood ... yup, a block heater right from the factory. Go figure.