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BajaBoogie77, I suspect that the route would be as follows: center dash, across the underside of the dash to the kick panel, under the door thresholds front and rear to the interior flapper vents on the rear wall of the cabin at the corners (that's where they are on most cars and trucks. Pull the cargo area back panel under the rear windshield to access the flapper valves, pull the side cargo panel to the tailgate rubber gaiter that feeds wiring to the license plate lights and the camera. You may find a wiring harness from the rear of the cabin back to the tailgate to follow, who knows. I've never owned a Baja, but this should be pretty close.

Rabbitsmaher66, Prices vary market to market and by season. Get on Autotrader.com and look up the prices in your area/state. That'll give you an idea of what to expect, but I wouldn't think this is the time of year to sell a WRX. Buying one should be cheaper now, but selling one should command a bigger dollar in the spring. You may not get many takers ... but you never know. Good Luck!

brighton98, This link is to a free 2009 Impreza workshop manual: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2009/Impreza%202009/ One doesn't show up for the 2010 year but this 2009 is exactly the same in many areas. When it loads, click on the "Visual Contents", then go to the list on the left side of the page and scroll down to the "Exterior Interior Trim" and click. Another list shows up and click "Exterior Interior Trim" File Folder Icon. Another list shows up and scroll to the "Center Console" and click on its File Folder Icon. Now you'll have the "Removal" title show up, and click on it to follow the procedure for what you want. Its necessary to scroll down through what shows up to find all that you'll need. Its not rocket science, just take your time and use a flat bladed screw driver to pop off the panels, but wrap it in tape first to prevent scratches. Good luck!

Ryco, Any time there are loud engine noises after a "no oil on the dipstick" circumstance ... it usually means major engine work (read lots of dollars), or an engine replacement (whichever is cheaper). Should the diagnosis point to an engine replacement, be aware that in major cities there are salvage companies that import low mileage (usually around 35 000 miles) engines from Japan for reasonable money. These JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) engines are removed from cars in Japan when they are three years old and shipped world wide. Japan taxes cars more than 3 years old so highly that many people junk the cars and buy new ones. The engines, trannies and front body parts are salvaged for overseas markets. Many of these companies also install these engines into your car in very quick order, as they are set up for the job, and because they do so many of them. You may have one of these suppliers close to where you live. Here's one I found: https://jdmenginezone.com/ Good Luck!

Gentlemen, Were there just small light bulbs in the dash of that generation subie that can be pulled out, or LED's like the newer ones? Its pretty simple to pull the dash instruments and take out the bulb for that warnig light if it is.

OswaldtheBold, Those center vents are totally manually operated. There is no motorized mechanism to move them other than by sliding the wheels that open and close them. So, if they are closing on their own at higher fan speeds, either some other vent tubing to the floor, side dash vents or the windshield are partially blocked. You say your driver's side floor vent air is weak? Maybe in that vent tubing is your problem. The brushed aluminum look plastic surround that surrounds those center vents, the radio, and the HVAC, just pries right out of the dash on all sides. Use a flat screw driver blade wrapped in tape (to not scratch anything) and pry along its edges until totally free and pull it straight out. (Google "2013 outback dash vent pictures" to see what I mean.) At that point you can get to the wheel mechanisms that close those center vents and possibly put some tape under the wheels to add friction, so they won't blow open at the higher fan speeds. Then again, maybe some floor carpeting is covering the driver's side floor vent up by the center dash/console area. It was in my 2007 OutBack LTD. That one was an easy fix for me. If neither solves the issue, you may have to tear the center console/dash apart to get at the HVAC system and its tubing to the various vents, and check out the various door actuators that direct the air. Its not hard to do, just very time consuming. Take lots of pictures if you do, in order to remember where everything goes and the order. Been there, done that chasing down a mouse nest in the HVAC air box years ago and two OutBack's ago. Good Luck!

Eaglegrl, First, always give us the year, model and mileage of your car, because it can greatly change the advice the members here will give you on any repair. One of two things may have occurred: The wiper arm may have come loose from the shaft, and may just need to be retightened at the proper position. There is a plastic cap/plug at the end of the shaft where the wiper arm attaches. Pry it up with a flat screw driver and you'll find a (usually) 14 mm nut that can be loosened. This allows you to park your wipers in their normal off position, and then tighten down that nut to hold it in place. If this is your issue, then you should find everything is okay afterwards when you turn the wipers back on. The other issue may be that the mechanism under the plastic cowl (just under the wiper arms when at rest) may have broken a swing joint. Usually these can't be repaired, and it is always cheaper to get a complete used wiper motor/mechanism from a wrecking yard and replace it, using your old wiper arms/blades. Its a DIYer job for anyone mechanically inclined with normal tools. A dealership will charge way too much and will want all brand new parts which will be very expensive, say $ 500 or so. Junkyard used/ handy boyfriend or husband fix should be $100 or less. Good Luck! Good Luck!

Any auto body shop supplier, and many auto parts stores as well, can get the paint code from your car's manufacturer's sticker (usually driver's door frame at the B pillar) and mix up the paint for spraying, or even put it into spray cans for the DIYer. I've had it done several times. But be prepared for colour mismatch on your existing paint that has had 17 years in the sun and the elements and has faded. Some paint shop suppliers can use a colour scanner to more closely match the true colour that your car is now, before they mix it up. Good Luck!

golucky66, Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated. After several readings of the FSM it comes to light that rear brake work should not be performed without the Subaru Select Monitor. I assume that the computer, in Brake Maintenance Mode, must lock out the emergency brake motor, because the next step is to disconnect the battery negative cable (to keep the motor from moving the piston in the caliper?), and then do a normal brake removal/replace. I guess the days of doing your own rear brakes are over for DIYer's, as well as brake upgrades.

Gentlemen, I've wrenched on cars for years and do my own repairs, and have done 100's of brake jobs I'm about to trade up to a 2016 OBW LTD that has the newer Emergency Brake Actuators on the rear calipers, instead of the traditional brake shoes inside the disc rotors. I have the FSM, but wanted to know how people have found these newer rear brake setups to repair and cleanup. Gene

freekraz, You seem to have diagnosed your starting point for the solution. Pop the ends of the rubber gaiter out of the car body and the tailgate, slide it to one end and properly solder new wire extensions, in of the same wire gauge, for any of the wires that are frayed or broken. Use shrink tubing, as it won't allow for moisture to invade the solder joints and won't unravel like electrical tape will over time. If that doesn't solve the issue, then you can start troubleshooting the feed lines, grounds, wire connections at the window grid, and the switch itself. Good Luck!

Torry33, Don't know if you have access large enough to slide in another nut somewhere else on that frame rail, but if you do .... Can't recall whether it was this present OB WGN or my last one, but the trailer hitch came with blind nuts for inside the frame rail, that had a 5 inch long thin metal tab welded to them. The idea was to bend the tab into a slight curve, feed it through a nearby hole large enough for the blind nut to go through, and then use the tab to slide the nut to the appropriate hole for the bolt. Can you do something similar along the frame rail with a piece of welding wire tack welded to the nut (get a muffler place to tack weld the wire to the nut)?

freekraz, Check the rubber gaiter at the driver's door hinge. That set of wires gets more movement/bending than any other wiring harness on the car. Several generations of Ford Explorers had the same issue at the same spot.

5000fingers, Below is a direct link to the factory service manual for that year and model. Just click on the link below, and then load the 2nd file for what you want. Its all there in the 3 files for the seats front and back. Seems pretty easy to remove the seat back from what I can see in the file. Good Luck! http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2001/Service%20Manual/BODY,%20CAB%20AND%20ACCESSORIES%20SECTION/Seats/

Gentlemen, This is absolutely unacceptable ... and it is NOT normal, whatever those dealership service department heads are telling you! I've owned four different OBW's since 98, and not one of them has ever had sunroof leak. Not leaking is normal. You need to keep the pressure on them, firm but friendly, and if its not resolved to your satisfaction, turn to your state's lemon law. Over the generations there was a problem with water being wicked into the overhead map lights (2nd generation). The problem then was a poor sealant job on the steel roof opening for the sunroof. Water would wick into cracks in the paint as the sealant aged and shrunk, and then found its way into the overhead map lights, to drip onto the driver/passenger legs on turns. The factory put out a TSB for that one way back in 2002 ?

Staruser, Typically those old power antenna units utilize a timer and a spring clutch. When either fully up or down, the clutch then clicks/slips a cog, until the motor timer times out and turns off the 12 volts to the motor. Its normal, but if you installed a shorter mast than original, then it'll reach full up or down sooner, making the timer run the motor longer, hence the clicking as the clutch slips to keep from ruining the motor. Either that, or you may have a piece of the old mast geared nylon whip still inside the clutch case, and the new geared whip isn't being moved up or down as smoothly and clicks. The clutch spring may also have lost some of its spring tension and is slipping, making the click. I've repaired several of these units years ago on a71 Datsun 240Z, a 90 300ZX, and a 97 Subie OutBack and others. They really are easy to open up the case and remove the broken whip pieces (if there are any), regrease, and install a new mast, utilizing a remote 12 volt supply while out of the car. Unless you are adventurous and like fiddling with things (like I do) I would suggest that you just live with the noise. If you find that the timer is just running too long, you could bypass its wiring and install a separate dash switch to power it up or down with a center off position.

Ever Victorious, Check for a blown fuse. Then, with the ignition on and or the engine running pull the two wires from one pump and check for continuity with a multi meter while someone inside the car switches the washer on. Do this for both pumps and switches. If you have power at the pump with the switches on, the pumps need to be replaced. If there is no power to the pumps, and the fuse is good (if there is one for the washers), then there is a break in the wiring somewhere or the switches are bad. It is possible to take the washer motors apart and degunk them and clean their armatures and brushes, but it is tedious and time consuming working with tiny parts, but it may be possible to resurrect them. Been there, done that, but not anxious to do it again. Good Luck!

Alan2012, Since the engine turns only in one direction, whether driving forward or reverse, it cannot be the source of the issue. Its either the transmission or half axle shafts, etc. Your best course of action is to have a good mechanic listen to the car and diagnose the issue, if there is one. Its just too difficult for us to come up with a cause long distance. Good Luck!

mtsmiths, I've wrenched on all kinds of cars over the years and many of them allow the power window switch assembly to be popped out of the door arm rest. Then there are the ones that you try that with, only to discover that the door panel must come off first, so you can remove the screws that hold the switch in place. Trying to pop thos off (the ones with the screws underneath) ends up breaking switch cases, and adds a whole new problem for you. Having not had an 06 door panel apart before myself to know how subie did it on that year, I'd suggest going the cautious route, and check the back of the switch assembly in the door panel to see which applies . Then again, maybe someone whose done it on that generation subie can jump in and say for sure.

mtsmiths, These two pdf files are from the 2006 OutBack Factory Service Manual. Read it carefully through a couple of times before you attempt. None of this stuff is hard to do, if you're used to wrenching on cars. Newer DIYer's need to slow it down and take care doing these kinds of things, to keep from breaking off various lock tabs and scarring up the plastic bits. Good Luck! 3 Power Window Control Switch.pdf 17 Door Trim.pdf

Dude_aru, Check the fuses for the HVAC system (I suspect its not that, but first things first), and then zero in on the dash control unit. Pull the center dash surround and remove the screws that hold the HVAC control unit to the dash. Pull the unit clear of the dash and check the control unit as per the factory service manual page PDF file I've attached. If anything is out of spec, either take the control unit apart and clean its contacts for every switch with electrical contact cleaner spray, and see if you can't get it working again. Either that or get a used one from a wrecking yard. Good Luck! MSA5TCD97L3731.pdf

06SubLegTx, This from the 2006 Legacy factory service manual: 8 Trunk Lid1.pdf I'm not certain it will be of much help or not. Good Luck!

bobs98subaru, If you are certain that the wiper motor is running when switched on, and the wiper arms don't move, .... then either the wiper motor gear box has stripped a gear, or the mechanism (several arms and pivot points) has come apart. The solution is to replace the motor or the entire system with a used one from a wrecking yard. Its an easy replacement for a DIYer who is a wrencher. Good Luck! Gene

BopbM1969, Download the factory service manual for your year (free) and then use the" Security and Locks" section to find your answer as to how to reattach the lock cylinder. Use the "Body Structure" section to find the "Interior Trim" subsection for how to take the door apart to get at the lock assembly. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/ Good Luck!

nicksubaru, Pull the timing belt covers and rotate the cam wheels to close the valves on each cylinder one at a time, pull the spark plugs and pump each cylinder full of air, to see if the valves will hold the pressure or if it quickly leaks off? Scope each cylinder to see if pistons are damaged or show valve strike damage? I would think you'd really have to pull the heads to know for sure what damage has been done, and if its worth while rebuilding. Maybe a used JDM engine makes more sense, as many of them have less than 35 000 miles on them. Good Luck!