luko
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Everything posted by luko
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Catalyst efficient code...Remember catalytic converters just don't go bad...something causes them to go bad, so if you just slap a new set of cats on it chances are you'll have the same problem down the road
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If the PCV hoses were plugged wouldn't there be a vacuum in the crankcase...so you could put a vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube or the oil filler tube and see a vacuum on the gauge?
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They could if you got in an accident and there was no fuse there....Fuse's just don't remove themselves someone had to pull it out How would the wheels lock up on you if your ABS was working properly? If you had a non ABS vehicle this would be true...but this topic is on ABS vehicles
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Careful about pulling the ABS fuse though...If you do that or modify the ABS system and you get in an accident it may be considered your fault and your insurance will defiantly not cover anything...... Good tires do help a bit but does not allow you to stop on a dime when the ABS kicks in..... One thing you may try which I have found to be helpful is disengaging the drive line, so if it is standard just push the clutch in or through it in neutral, if it is automatic put it in neutral. The idea behind this is that by doing this it prevents the car from pushing itself while trying to brake
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What is the vehicle's history? such as any new parts on it?
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Like I said though I cannot say if the PCM is bad or not without being there....can't really diagnose and fix a car properly through a computer
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It almost seems like the PCM is fried....but I can't really say if it is without being there...the only reason why I was that is that is because you are getting a good (or so I think) reading to your PCM (because your scan tool is picking it up)... and a good reading to your gauge....put your fans are staying on and you are having other lights come on your dash....If I recall though the gauge should be about half way, and it should run at about 190 degrees or so...One other thing you could check is your electric fan relay to see if is stuck on, then if that fixes the fans go from there about the other issues
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Ej16
luko replied to shapay23's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
O2 sensor as well...could be giving your PCM false readings...or you could have a dirty MAF -
Just a though what is your temp gauge reading? also you could hook your DVOM up to the sensor and see what your getting for a resistance
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got it, thanks!!
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Okay thanks, what's the best way of torquing it if it's an automatic?
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Has anyone ever seen a harmonic balancer key way wear out before? and for replacement I was thinking about an aftermarket light weight pulley any opinions on that? Figured since it a boxer that there would be no need for a balancer and instead just a pulley... I seen a topic on dirty impreza about using a light weight pulley just was wondering on some more opinions on it
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I've only seen the reservoir mounted on the right side wheel well area, not on the pump itself when it comes to that year range of legacy's...the previous owner may have swapped a p/s pump out of an older on into it
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Check and clean your battery terminals, also check for any broken or corroded ground wires
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One of my 2001 legacy's had the same problem... I put a new Beck Arnley coil pack on it, along with new Beck Arnley wires and NGK plugs since I was under the hood and it took care of the problem...not saying it's the same with yours but could be...and that timing belt definitely needs to be addressed as soon as possible
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Just a thought that has nothing to do with the whole tranny issue....but was the timing belt done 90,000 as well? if so that is kinda getting near the change interval for it
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Drain the tranny, fill it up with new fluid, or do a Imdew said to do with the tranny flush and try it to see what happens... I've fixed that "binding" problem with the 4eat's by doing this several times
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My 98' 2.2 Impreza was running around 20 MPG with about a 50/50 mix of highway and "country" driving with the cold
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Or it could be because it is so damn cold out lately...I know my 98' 2.2 Impreza MPG has gone down the drain with this deep freeze
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- Bad mileage
- 1999
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I run the best full synthetic Castrol 5w-30 I can find...usually the stuff in the gold colored containers
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Change the oil and filter... people don't realize that the oil collects the dirt and impurities that are introduced into the engine.... And I would just run some Sea Foam through the engine and spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body, Then change the oil
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Rock Auto is also listing both a sealed bearing unit and a tapered roller serviceable bearing, which one is correct?
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Well my rear wheel bearing has spoob the bed on me today and I was wondering if I could get some tips on how to go about removing it, installing it, tools needed and what brand of bearing is the best to get. Thanks! -Lukas
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Go on Rockauto and get the Gates T-belt kit, if you do go that route
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98' 2.2 had a 80,000 interval..and 01' 2.5 had a 90,000 interval...That's what the owners manual said in mine anywho