redXTwedgie

The last three Suby HG repairs I've done were because of bubbling reservoir/disappearing coolant, chocolate milk in the crank case, and thick white smoke out the exhaust. Apparently, they don't all overheat because because of HGs. There are a number of components that can cause it. Like Gary started to list. Like I said, I'm still probably going to change HGs anyway just to make it easier to sell, assuming I sell it.

Actually, I wouldn't call it a perfectly good outback. It has a wasted fender on it, the rear hatch has a big dent, clear coat is peeling all over, and there is at least one rear wheel bearing howling. Interior is so-so. And then there's the hole where the tranny is supposed to be. At least it has low miles. Only 157k.

Every head gasket issue I've had has been accompanied by white smoke out the exhaust, disappearing coolant, oil mixed with coolant, and/or exhaust pressurizing the coolant system. I don't have any of those issues this time. And now I don't even have overheating.

I put my SVX radiator cap on there and it fit much more snugly. So I ran it for awhile in my driveway and got it up to temp and the sponginess in the bottom radiator hose immediately went away. I revved it up to get the driver side fan to come on and it did. So I bit the bullet and drove it around for about 20 mins and the needle never moved. I've read it many times, but I never thought a radiator cap could make that much difference. WOW! When does ever turn out to be the cheapest thing???

Don't worry, I have an umbrella. This is my sixth SVX and I've done 4.44s before, as have 100 others on subaru-svx.net. We even have a computer guru over there who rewrites the TCU to take different ratios and boost low-rpm line pressure and more. While the 3.90 and 4.11 trannys have not held up well to the EG33, the 4.44s have done just fine. They may not have the extra clutch packs, but the ratio helps keep the tranny "out of its own way". We get a lot of broken front diffs on the stock SVX 3.545 ratio. But my question was about the water pump. Thanks for the reply Gary. I'll check those three lower items tonight before jumping into the head gaskets. I've had many failed Subaru HGs in the past, and each time it was obvious. I'm sure my radiator cap needs replaced. I don't need to push down on it at all to turn it. And I have yet to verify that the fans come on, other than forcing them on with the AC. If I decide to sell the motor, I will probably replace the HGs anyway just 'cause.

I just bought a 97 Outback that overheats so that I could swipe the tranny out of it and put it in my SVX. I would like to fix the overheating and either use or sell the motor though. It overheats after about 10-15 minutes of driving. No signs of head gasket issues. No blockage in the heater core. Pulled the t-stat. Doesn't seem to be losing fluid anywhere. With it running, I notice that the hose between the water pump and bottom of the radiator feels really spongy like there is no pressure in there, again with no stat. It is hot, but spongy. Is that a sign of no water pump flow? Or should I look elsewhere. I haven't got it to overheat or the fans to come on revving it to temp at 2000-2500 rpms. I don't have a trip permit yet, so driving it enough to get it to overheat is not an option yet. Any thoughts about the spongy hose?

No, that would not be a good way to go. Would have to pro done and would be expensive. Not much available in 4 x 140 as you probably know. Just have to sell them and get some 6 x 140 rims and redrill the hubs or add two holes to the rims. Lots of cheap rims available in 6 x 140 pattern.

Thanks for all the replies. I found the main fan relay at the top of the fuse block and swapped it out and that took care of it for now.

It runs all the time if the battery is connected. Fuse was burned when I got it, so it didn't work thru that circuit. I put a fuse in it and its running continuously. Car had alternator overcharge so I'm thinking it probably melted the bat. and switched power together on one of the relays. Replaced alternator, fusible link, combination switch, and other electrical odds and ends. Had no issues for months until I discovered the fuse. So I'm looking way up under the dash, above the fuse block, for the fan relays??? Or am I on the wrong track?? Thanks.

Ok, thanks for the tips. I will find another place for it.

I'm running an EJ22 manifold and there usually is a second tapped hole for a bung, but this one doesn't have one. I just teed it into the FPR hose to test it and it is back in 4WD. Is it cool to leave it on there? Thank you Tom and Ivans!

Well, I've racked up over a 1000 miles on the swap and all is well. Unfortunately, I don't have a welder and probably won't finish the exhaust before I sell it. I'll just include all the exhaust components with it. FOR SALE Please PM if interested. I'll post in the for sale column in about a week. Looking for four grand. First dibs to those reading this thread.

Sorry, I missed your post. Thank you so much. I can't find a cannister, so i'll try this.

Thanks bro. You rock!

I'm 99% sure that part was not there when I got the car. 4wd did work before the swap. The two solenoid hoses that connect together with a check valve slightly downstream: where does the bottom end of that hose connect to? If anything...

Look for my XT to be for sale soon. It's in the process of being replaced with an AT and two more cylinders...(wink, wink) I'm just going to finish the exhaust first, before I sell. I now have all the parts. A Magnaflow 18135 22" glasspack for the resonator and Magnaflow 13148 single in/dual out stainless for the main muffler. And 2 45 degree mandrel bends to finish it all in 2 1/4"

I drove it about 100 miles on the freeway yesterday and it is running really well and getting stronger. Temp needle never budged from the 1/6 mark. The exhaust note is deafening though at high speed. 3000 rpm = 62 mph. Not too bad. Looks like over 30 mpg still on the freeway. Around 23-24 in town. Very happy with those numbers. Magnaflow resonator and muffler are on the way. I already have my mandrel-bent sections as well. Will be 2 1/4". Muffler is stainless 2 1/4" in/ dual 2" out. And then the dilemna of the OBX header. I sold my Impreza and my next project is looking like an SVX w/ecutune and 4.11 Legacy ratio w/n2o. More fun on the way!!

I got the rest of the air out of the cooling system. Now the temp needle holds steady at about 1/5 or 1/4 mark. The tach is hooked up and the car is really running and driving well. Excellent road manners for a swapped car. Need an exhaust system! Lots of fun so far. I just put it into service delivering pizzas and all systems are go.

BODY - 1989 XT GL ENGINE - Frankenmotor 1995 EJ22e w/1997 EJ25D Block w/OBDII plug TRANS - 5 spd push-button 4wd SUSPENSION - to be continued... WHEELS - 1997 Chevy Z71 directional alloys - redrilled - 16 x 7 with 205/50-16s MISC - Delta Cams 220 grind / LUK XT-6 clutch This car will likely be for sale soon due to my poor financial situation.

They didn't appear bent or damaged in any way. Looks like the springs just couldn't keep them completely closed

Today I wired the second fan. It's parallel to the main on its own circuit, fuse, and relay and borrows the main fan signal from the ECU. Needle sits about a quarter while driving and rises to about half at extended idle. Ambient temp is about 80 and very humid. I drove it awhile today and when I went to romp on it, it kind of sputtered. So I expected to find a unplugged vacuum hose and I did. Looks like I just need a tach and a check engine light and I am done. I plan to romp tomorrow.

So the engine is running and sounding good finally. But one fan is not doing the cooling job. So I added a second fan in the location of where the engine-driven fan was. I thought I was going to have to put them in front of the radiator, but there was enough room. I had to invert the second fan on the driver side to make it clear the crank pulley, but two of the bolt holes in the radiator lined up. Hopefully this will take care of my cooling needs. I've still only driven it about 5 or 10 minutes at a time, and very gingerly.

Thank you. I had a feeling...

Thanks Miles, but I don't have an EA motor in my car. So I had to phrase my question accordingly. Does the tube on the passenger side of the heater core receive or return the coolant from/to the motor?

I have a 89 XT GL and I need to know the configuration of the coolant hoses into and out of the firewall for the heater core. Does the tube on the passenger side of the heater core receive or return the coolant from/to the motor?