sjschlag

My buddy Brett and I picked up a 1979 DL automatic today. Looks just like my 4wd manual wagon except the paint is nicer! What a clean car. Looks like it spent most of it's life in Colorado as the rust is pretty minimal. Has about 54k on the clock. We were planning on parting it out for our other projects, but it's just too nice. Currently it won't shift out if first. After changing this vacuum valve thingy on the side of the transmission and flushing out all of the old fluid it still won't shift...car runs great otherwise! Any thoughts? If we can get this transmission fixed we'll probably just drive it since it drives pretty nice...

I borrowed a brake caliper tool set from the auto parts store and it made this job a breeze! Pedal still feels kinda spongy, so I should probably just flush em all out..

Pix please!

I'm trying to put new pads and rotors on my '79 Wagon. I'm trying to get the Caliper piston to retract all the way so I can fit it back on. Any tips or tricks to get it to go in? I'm about to pound my head into the wall...

Spicypeanut- yes it has dealer installed AC. No it doesn't work. Needs to be recharged.

Well, this sure has been a fun project and it hurts me to let it go, but I'm selling off my wagon. Has 46k original miles, and the interior to prove it. So far I've done the following things to it- - New Tires - Refinished Jackman wheels - Weber Carburetor - New Rocker Panels - Lined and Sealed Gas Tank - New Water Pump - New Oil Pump - New Rear brake shoes and new line and wheel cylinder on passenger side It needs the following - Gas tank is not venting properly - Maybe an exhaust leak somewhere? Smells when the windows are rolled down. - Oil Pan Gasket (will do this weekend) - Front discs could be turned - New Coat of Paint Asking 2250, but willing to talk. Let me know if you're interested! (Brat is not mine, it's my friends!)

I've heard the 2nd Gen struts will work but the front end will sit ~1-2" lower.

second on the exhaust leak. mine used to afterfire like crazy, then I noticed the exhaust joint between the headers and the muffler was only half welded! I welded all the way around and now it runs fine. No pops or anything!

50 MPG highway sounds awful optimistic...

Just finished putting a new oil pan gasket and water pump in, also welded up some exhaust holes. Feels great to cross all of these little things off of my list. Next up is figuring out what to do with the gas fumes. Welding up the exhaust hole seemed to get rid of some of the fumigation, but there are definitely still some noxious gasses making their way into the cabin - especially when the windows are rolled down. I'm running a 32/36 DGEV on my car with no EGR or any other emissions stuff. I plugged up the lines from the charcoal canister because I had no clue what I was doing. Now the gas tank doesn't vent properly and builds up pressure (yikes!) when the gas cap is secured on. It also takes for f***ing ever to fill up at the gas station due to all of the tank fumes, etc. So, with this weekend coming up and some pretty awesome weather I'd like to figure SOMETHING out. Anyone out there have any ideas on how to hook up the charcoal canister and get things venting properly? Sure would like to drive my car for longer than 20 minutes, and definitely would like to keep a clear head while doing it! Thanks!

The best part about the gen 1s is that they are super light! Not really sure if you could do a whole lot as far as handling goes. Put stiffer springs up front? Thicker torsion bars in the rear? Anyone know of anything that swaps? Motor wise, look for a NA EJ18, EJ20 or EJ22. They provide all of the horsepower you will ever need for these cars.

I just used a good ol' phillips head and they came right out. Put them back in too. Didn't want to torque them down too much, since the last time I did that I broke off a bolt. I'm looking at some water pumps on fleabay right now. Need to make sure I get the right one because I hear there are a few different kinds!

Put a new cork gasket on with a bit of RTV to help it seal. Putting those rear bolts on is a real PITA! I also discovered my water pump is leaking. Isn't working on old cars great? looks like I have another project ahead of me!

My poor subie is leaking profuse amounts of oil from the 35 year old cork gasket on the oil pan. It needs to be replaced...badly. Unfortunately, there's a crossmember in the way of the rear bolts. Is there a quick and easy way to pull the engine up a few inches so I can get the rear bolts out and replace the gasket? Thanks!

Nice wagon! Mine will look like that as soon as I get it painted!

does it use the same socket as the old style? Sure! I don't really think there'd be any problem with that! In fact, I might get some to replace my turn signals and stuff! As far as the headlights, I believe those are sealed beam (at least on the GLs they are), so you'll need to find some LEDs that are complete sealed headlight units... As far as running more lights (bar lights, etc.) you should probably calculate out how much current those new lights will draw vs. savings with LEDs to figure out if it will mess up your battery...

I just put some 75w90 gear oil in mine over the weekend. Wow! What a difference!

If it was in IMMACULATE condition throughout maybe 5k, but that's stretching it. I'd pay maybe 4 grand for that car. It has a pristine interior.

If you get the redline kit it's a pretty simple install!

You'll have to call around. Finding tires for these 13s isn't all that hard, but finding GOOD tires for these cars can be difficult! Also, the internet is your friend and if you shop around you can order whatever size you need!

Just do it. Completely worth the $300 you'll spend.

Lookin' sharp!

Is the body shot? I would flip it man! these are getting so rare I'd hate to see another go to the crusher if it's at all salvageable!

check your timing, then check the fuel cut off solenoid on the carb. If the timing is off, that explains everything, if not, then the fuel solenoid isn't cutting off fuel to the engine when you shut it off, and the motor will either back fire, or "diesel" and run backwards!

Too bad you have to have all of that emissions stuff on there in CA...otherwise I'd say chuck it and get a weber!