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Everything posted by ragingbull
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So I recently swapped a Ej22t into my 86 Brat. Everything seems great except for when I go driving on the highway and when I get off the engine seems to flood with gas. I have a manual switch for the fuel pump so when I get off the highway the engine stalls, I turn the pump off, start the engine and turn the pump back on. Does anyone have ideas why it's flooding out like that?
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I swapped a EJ22T into my 86 Brat. Runs great however every once in a while (maybe when it's hot out?) she likes to leak fuel out of the evap line coming into the engine bay (expansion?). I tried capping it off and it just leaked out somewhere else in the engine. As of now I'm driving around with my gas cap off to depressurize the lines and it hasn't leaked since.. Not sure if that's the right solution so what did you guys do?
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Lol you were right! The relays weren't in correctly either. We tied them in and nothing was working. I was lucky to find another harness, put it in and she fired right up. I salvaged the engine from a scrap yard without knowing why it was scrapped. No body damage. There must have been an electrical problem to start with. I'm wondering how many EJ22T Brat's are on the road now?
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Problem solved. Got a new wiring harness.. New wiring harness fixes all the problems lol! Oh man to hear and see my EJ22T swap fire up for the first time after the weeks of frustration with it not starting... Absolutely amazing. 10/10 would recommend! A personal thank you to all of those who supported me with this swap. You are all geniuses. Thank you again!!!
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Turns out I'm having trouble with the relays. I'm not exactly sure on where to go with them. Could any explain to me in detail how to install the ignition and fuel relays? I have the brown box ignition and silver cylinder fuel relays but I'v also read that the relays are the four black boxes on a fuse panel in the engine bay. And a brown diode is suppose to be in there somewhere. I think this is where I'm getting confused. Any help would be appreciated!
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Every wire that has continuity had a bright light when tested. However there were lots of pins that didn't turn on..
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I checked over the connectors at the ecu. I'm getting lots of power to most of them but not all of them. Specifically not the f47.9 and .10. The cylinder ignition. There are lots if connectors that don't get power in the on position. Any idea where the diode and fuel pump relay wires connect to?
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I checked over the connectors at the ecu. I'm getting lots of power to most of them but not all of them. Specifically not the f47.9 and .10. The cylinder ignition. There are lots if connectors that don't get power in the on position. Any idea where the diode and fuel pump relay wires connect to?
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Also is this the diode? Not sure where to plug this in? The swap documentsays it's f47.5 self shutoff control. http://i.imgur.com/mrSYCPe.jpg
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Ok so I checked over the connectors at the ecu. I'm getting lots of power to most of them but not all of them. Specifically not the f47.9 and .10. The cylinder ignition. I'm not sure why the ecu is not telling the cylinders to ignite. I noticed the fuel pump relay wire at ecu is not connected. I do have power to the pump and it pumps hard. So I plugged the fuel pump relay wire to my brats fuel pump relay, yellow wire, tach signal. Still no dice. Tried plugging it to a straight solid power and nothing either.. Any thoughts?
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Ok thanks for the clarification. So when you say open does that mean infinite?
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Amazing suggestions, thank you! Fuel pump is primed and turning on when the key is first turned. I haven't checked with noid lights but I will try. Cam and Crank sensors have been checked for ohms and they're good. I will start testing for load as instructed! Great answers, thanks guys. I pulled my knock sensor out to check for ohms and im getting infinite resistance. Seems like it's broken so I borrowed two other knock sensors that are used but deemed that they were working before. I tested those as well for ohms and they are also infinite. I don't think they can all be broken? Im testing them by placing a lead on the end connection and the other lead on the metal part of the knock sensor. Is this right? I read there should be about 300 ohms resistance?
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I tired two and one of of them was confirmed to be working.
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But it is. Unfortunately. I'm sorry to ask but there is no one else in this world who has tried hard enough to get this to work. Unfortunately there is no spark. So here's the project. It's a EJ22T from a 93 Legacy (Auto) going into my 86 Brat (Manual) with a dual range 5 speed transmission from a 85 GL. I did not see this engine run as it was pulled out from a wrecking yard. Compression is solid. Only 165'000 km on the engine and it looks like it was dealership maintained. Everything is hooked up "properly" as so I've been told by what I would call "Subaru gurus". These are guys who have done numerous engine swaps before. Everyone has been amazingly enthusiastic, supportive and generous with this project as I could have imagined. It is all very much appreciated. However we can't figure out why shes not sparking. There is power to the coil. Coil has been checked of ohms and swapped out with three backups, they are all good. Plugs have been checked for ohms, they're good. Cam and Crank sensors have been checked for ohms, they are good and swapped again with checked and good sensors. Five grounds in the engine are good. ECU has been swapped three times and they are all good. It is grounded. Fuel pumps hard, fast and fresh. I'v had to replace a few connections due to old/dried out cracked wires but everything looks and tests good now! We're out of ideas now which is why I ask the godly experts of this board. Any thoughts or ideas are very much appreciated. Here are a couple galleries of the swap so far! http://imgur.com/a/EjDxS http://imgur.com/a/N6NzX
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WTF BRAT startup this morning?
ragingbull replied to zmarrott's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Try a fuel treatment/additive for cold weather. This helped my Brat last winter! Don't forget the engines getting old. She's no spring chicken! -
heater core removal
ragingbull replied to xMcCl3llandx's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I just removed my dash due to engine swap and changed my heater core just because. I wouldn't try ripping/melting the core out with the dash in it. There's too much to damage on the way out.. If I had to replace my core at a later date I think pulling the dash would be easier/faster than trying to rip that core out of there..