petronews

It's definately not there on mine, suspect i've got a hybrid ECU+TCU unit.

Thanks guys, blewn TCU would explain a lot. The other day I wanted to measure the TCU harness and connectors and check with the service manual charts, but i really couldn't tell where that damn TCU is. My car is LHD, I found the ECU under the passanger feet floor, but no sign of TCU under the steering column… I found the lpg computer. Is the TCU big? I'll try it again.

CNY_Dave, are you sure the fuse doesn't override the TCU? johnceggleston, i agree, but why would the problem develop after replacing clutch pack and duty C… I didn't expierience the bind before losing the rear, the fwd fuse was operational and TCU didn't flash anything before the repair. Right now I doubt in my mechanic ability as much as I do in new parts reliability as the easiest answer would be faulty duty C selenoid. That's why I am asking about the correct voltage in the FWD socket. Faulty wiring could be the problem, too, or shorted mass. Could You please measure voltage in the Your fwd sockets?

Hi everyone, BIG thanks for the info I was getting from you so far, it is invaluable. Sorry if i missed any "Hello" topic to introduce myself properly, but right now my mind is set to a different puzzle that I am eager to solve, would You like to help. What I have: 1) 1997, 4eat naturally aspirated 2.5l Subaru Legacy Outback with rear lsd. 2) new selenoid C 3) new clutch pack 4) new ATF 4) torque bind 5) the infamous 16 flashes of "power" – right after starting the engine 6) inserting a fuse does nothing – no fwd light comes on, MPT remains locked (except this morning, before driving the car, when everything was fine) 7) voltage in the fwd fuse socket shows 5.5 Volts (that's low, innit?) The rest of the riddle: I lost AWD about a month ago, and drove the car with the FWD fuse installed and a FWD light on the dash for about 300km since then – came back from where I noticed problems and drove it to the shop for repair last week. The car was fine in FWD. At the shop I removed the fuse, and the dash light came off. The mechanic found out that the tail housing must have been previosuly repaired and put together with glue instead of a gasket. Previous owner had a massive ATF leak and the car was repaired by subaru unexpierienced shop close to the highway. My mechanic found the clutch packs worn out completly, and described it as "MPT fubar". There was a lot of steel shavings in the fluid. Somehow he figured the selenoid C is also blown, as there was no reaction of it after plugging it to the 12V battery. He replaced both the selenoid C and the entire MPT set, properly minding the important issues of measurment and order of installation. He got the entire inside well cleaned from the bits, put everything together and gave it new ATF. He didn't change the filter, He didn't measure the line pressure nor did he check the FWD fuse operation. During a test run he noticed the binding problem and when i arrived to pick the car he suggested me to drive home (100km) and see if it goes away. He was hoping that the binding is caused by left over steel shavings that will eventually flush. I did about 10kms and turned around as I didnt feel comfortably with the binding. I installed the fuse and to my big suprise noticed that it does nothing. As it was late at night, I went to my friends and made an appointment with the mechanic in the morning. The next morning I was even more confused – as I turned the ignition, the FWD light was ON, and the car was FWD. I removed the fuse and discovered the binding problem was gone. All puzzled and helpless I decided to give it a test – I drove the car in various conditions for the next hour, including climbing steep snowy slopes and making fast highway runs and the problem came back, leaving me and my mechanic completly clueless. I went home and started to investigate. HELP! I cannot measure the pressure line myself and I was unable to read trouble codes – i didnt find the connector to ground pins and the secret handshake did not work. Any clues, ideas?