TallonX

Crammed a 86 750 Shadow, a Honda 70 Trail, and a Yamaha 90 Enduro + some misc odds n ends in my 87 Wagon. From Auburn to Rochester up the freeway XD

What's your timing set at? 8 before on fool infected 20 before on carbed. Running premium fuel? Sorry my bad tubo'd is 20 btdc as well

Couple things on coils... Paper is the insulator oil is heat exchange. Voltage in is in correlation with voltage out ie; 60000v out is equal to 12v in with 5000 wraps, this is the reason why the resistance values are important OEM vs. Aftermarket coils... OEM allows for a miss 20% of the time aftermarked 5-10% Just as long as you keep within OEM specs on primary resistance when you buy aftermarket you should be fine. Personally I run a MSD High Vibration coil.

Nah mine doesn't, indent for it but not drilled... put air n carb/choke cleaner through every line I could, pulled the air horn back off and removed the fuel fittings (a big FU Hitachi for that brass cone screen) cleaned it up... 1st gear to 6k wot no probs, 2nd broke loose wot to 6k no issues... by that time I was doing 60 in a 35 XD Fuel pump gph might be kinda weak tho 240k on what seems like stock

Does my 87 GL Wagon have a drain plug? I've looked under the car and I'm not sure if I'm looking at the tank or if it's an "armored" plate protecting it. Having a fueling issue, I set my carb float at proper level and she sucks flat, I set it to ¼" from the air horn she copes with it, looks like my fuel filter is being under heavier vacuum from the pump like a clog in tank (bottom of the filter cupped in) just trying to figure out if there is an easy way to do it.

They come out easy, on a pin held by rubber. The piece behind it falls and zeroing is a pain.

Cool I think I have mine somewhere, 3rd owner of this wee beasty. 240k mi, no ToD, no smoke, feels like more than 90hp under foot, 40 mpg, put like 20k on her the past year I've owned it (traded a monster 86 F350 for it) went mileage happy I guess XD but hey when the worth of the rig traded is made up by fuel savings makes it worth it lol

87 GL Wagon 5 speed ea82 carbed 60mph she runs under 3k

95 mph @ 4k rpm Simply put... that normal?

That is a fuel pulse diaphragm, compensates for the pulses from the fuel pump.

That is a fuel pulse diaphragm, compensates for the pulses from the fuel pump.

If carbed, your fuel float might be sticking not allowing the bowl to fill causing it to suck flat when under load running at speed It's also possible that there is something in your gas tank that occasionally blocks fuel flow

Thanks man much appreciated for the info

Pretty general question but kinda curious due to the fact that my 87 GL Wag 4WD sits roughly 3" taller than many others out there, she's bone stock, and no she don't have adjustables. So question being what is the stock ride height? Did they vary based on manufacture location? Oh and an off topic question what is the difference between a DL and a GL... thought it was 2WD vs. 4WD but seen one in Oly that makes me question that concept. Thanks

I'm pretty sure I'm havin a flow issue, typically higher pressure equals lower flow n vise versa. She seems to be suckin the bowl flat, current fuel pressure is 6psi guessin I got a clog some where after the pump but shouldn't it max at 3.5 with the design of it?

Anyone know the flow rate for a hitachi carbed ea82 fuel pump? I know the psi is 2.5-3.5 and will going up to 4.5 psi pump flood it?

It's a nippy... all original kinda rig. I'm no stranger to oddball rigs they seem to find me lol Any difference when it comes to Mexican models?

No miss fire when the tach jumps... Example: Rollin at 60mph 3000 rpm fifth tach twitches up by 500 or so drops back to 2750 rpm or so no stumble or hesitation loss of power or noises

Don't know if I'm posting in the right spot or not but... I'm the proud owner of an 88 GL wagon EA82 2bbl 240k on the odo and I'm trying to figure my options regarding my distributor. Typical signs ie: play, intermittent tach twitch, and missfire on acceleration from stop to turning When I look one up online from schmucks and it shows me the 4-pin fool infected dizzy, mine is not the optic system. Question being, can I swap to the optic dizzy? I used one of them kits once on a 73 Ford and same year Chev to upgrade the ignition system. Same principal isn't it?