Tsuru

Thanks for the discussion. I've the opposite problem, the cooling fan comes on every time the key is switched on, even in the accessory (acc) position. I cannot just sit and listen to the radio without running the cooling fan. Now I know what to look at to get it working correctly! Respectfully, T.

Make sure check the small coolant line BENEATH the turbo. If it leaks it looks like a coolant leak from the right bank. You will have to feel for it when the engine is cold. (unless you have ready access to proctology tools) It's purpose it to siphon coolant through the turbo bearings (through a water jacket) after the engine is shut down to keep the bearings from coking up. (no turbo timer needed) The hose is often overlooked and when it blows, it is all over, ask me how I know. that little puppy of a hose is the reason I have an entirely new (to me) Subaru. anyone want a 1988 GL10 1.8 Turbo 5 speed pushbutton 4X4 Wagon? (for parts) I just happen to have one left! Good luck with that. quietly, timothy

Funny thing about Japan. One will not generally see vehicles over 5 years old there. (Usually three years old) Rust and the pressure of status keeps new vehicles selling briskly. The Japanese auto industry was initially floored when they found out that here (in the U.S.) we keep vehicles for years (and years and years). The only way they can find drivable examples of their favorite childhood cars is to (re) import them from other countries like ours (US) because they just do not exist at home anymore. I do know that there was a time when they were crazy for ANYTHING. 1950's American, and a '55 Chevy would sell for enough to retire on. ($200,000 was not unheard of for a clean convertible) Of course, a '55 is worth a mint here now, but this was back in 1984! I hope they got over that craze...it was a bit mental for them to embrace the whole Greaser, Rock-a-billy, cigarette pack rolled in the shirtsleeve, ducktail hair thing...(shudder). timothy

Just Acquired my third Subaru (1986 GL 10 Wagon 1.8 5spd DR) and for the THIRD TIME there is a mouse nest in the heaterbox... Seems weird that there is this ongoing and continual issue with mice nesting there. It is like it's a genetic thing along with flying south for the winter, swimming upstream to spawn, and nesting in Subaru heater boxes. Laughingly, Timothy

About changing the turbo coolant line to the turbocharger... OH MY GOODNESS, Twitch You were RIGHT! That little bit of hose was a ROYAL PAIN IN THE BACKSIDE! I ended up having to PULL the turbo just to remove ONE little banjo bolt! That meant disconnecting everything that was associated with the turbo, (intake, output, exhaust output, three nuts to the header assembly...) I know far more than I ever wanted to know about that little monster. BUT... she lives on and the best part is that she DID NOT blow a headgasket, no water in the oil, or oil in the water, no coked turbo bearings, no (major) cracked heads (I've heard that these heads crack at the dealership while waiting to be sold...it's a feature) So I'll continue to drive her and just enjoy what is left of her nine lives. I say nine because she had a new radiator when I got her so there is some history of cooling system troubles in the past. so goodness knows how many times she overheated before she came into my life. Pictures...ain't happening, I started to document but got so fed up I just wanted to get on to the next step. perhaps I will post what I have, but for now suffice the theater of imagination to play out the important bits...mostly fussing at the amount of heat shielding surrounding the turbo. and the lack of space to maneuver in while trying to turn a wrench. Bottom line...She lives on and isn't going to a junk yard anytime soon. Thankfully, Timothy

BONUS! Celebrate with some doughnuts! (wait, that's like celebrating your one month sobriety with a shot of tequila). By the way Twitch, Thanks for the heads up, I was looking at it and it looks like a true puppy to get to without pulling the turbo... I'm not opposed to yanking it, but not really wanting to start pulling things off if I can help it. Of course, if the motor is stuffed, the whole thing gets yanked and rebuilt. of if someone wants to give me an EJ22 with a DR5sp... (Ok, back to reality.) If anyone is interested, the coolant hose to the turbocharger is Part # 14448AA002 I couldn't find it online anywhere. (even here) More later... Continued and abiding Respects, quietly, timothy

my sailboat was googlemapped, but the next update it wasn't there...

Inasmuch as I have been trying to do only positive things to my newly acquired GL-10 with the EA82T in it...I am afraid I've donked it up. Heading home...cruising at 65 and just basically enjoying life in general. (yeah I don't speed very often) Suddenly, Great clouds of billowy steam envelope the vehicle and the temp gauge starts to rise...rapidly. Shut down and coast to the side of the road, pop the hood and discover the turbo coolant line ruptured. The coolant line really only comes into play when you shut down the engine after a playful romp, thermo-siphoning coolant to keep things coke free. But sudden rupture of any coolant line is not a good thing...especially in these little beasties. New part on order, but still trying to find info here about how to change the silly little hose. Or maybe it's just not that difficult and I'm fretting over nothing at all. OR... It's a nightmarish adventure into knuckle bleeding agony, wrench throwing and epithet spewing hell that nobody posts about because it is a process best never spoken of again. either way I'm about to find out. (just hope no more damage was done, crossing fingers that the pass side HG survived) And about a swap to an EJ22... No...just...no... the body is rough, and a 220K miles the entirety of the vehicle does not warrant such an expenditure. besides...really...how many of the old EA82Ts are really left out there anymore, with everybody doing all this swapping. I'd rather have a rare beastie that runs right, than a hybrid that everyone has. (I got 27 MPG between Darby and Missoula without even trying!) Dual range 5 speed...sure...why the heck not.. But only if this engine is toast will I consider swapping it out for the almighty EJ22.. so...when I get the part in I'll post pictures about the change.since I cannot find anything on it using the search. (which sucks by the way...nothing I look for comes up, must be my incompetence in using the search function) More later... (a dealership in Oregon has three of the hoses I need, and I only need one, at least they are still available) frustratedly, timothy

...creepy... Haunting the Waterfront. nothing feels more lost or dead than a ship tied up and forgotten.

I'm not far behind you with a '77 Front Wheel Drive Wag. (FINALLY looks like I'm getting an engine! YAY!)

if all your car will ever see is pavement, go for it... But that isn't what Subaru are made for. Honestly, they were made for doing what we do with them, things like getting out, like this... and seeing sights like these... Even most US Forest trails will EAT a lowered vehicle. it just seems a waste of Japanese (hands over hearts folks) engineering to neuter a vehicle in such a way. But, that is just my opinion, and accounts for little in this crazy mixed up world. Do what you wanna do, build it the way you want to and then drive what ya got. It just seems like pulling the wings off a 747 so you can sit in your backyard and scare the neighbors. Semper Gumby. (always flexible) Respectfully, quietly, timothy On and by the way that is John Big-Boo-TAY! (heh, love that movie)

I "fixed" all the interior lighting in my 88 wagon simply by removing the assembly (assemblies) pulling the switches apart (the little levers have a ball bearing in them backed by a spring which contacts a metal - uh - contact) and spraying the contacts with contact cleaner (LPS1), wiping the contact points clean with a paper towel, and then re-greasing with silicone grease and reassembling. they all work now. all they needed was cleaning, I didn't even have to replace one light bulb! now...to do something about the rear end that is all rusted out behind the wheel wells. sure gets dusty in that car over some of these trails. Respectfully, Timothy

it's your steering - Its "Rack and Opinionated"... (sorry, that was bad) I'm with I75eya, sounds like an axle. if it's a brake you would be smelling it fairly early on. (I would think) Respectfully, Timothy

Fantastic, do what you must to keep her rolling. Best of luck! Respectfully, Timothy

Had to do an adjustment on my 1988. Found this which helped me understand the system better. http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Subaru%20Hill%20Holder.pdf Sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but there seemed to be info lacking. as always, Respectfully, Timothy

You say Flux Capacitor, I say Oscillation OverThruster!

I wish I had taken photos for this. but I was just too focused on getting it done. I fixed the electric door lock actuator (the one in the hatch). it was not connected and I found out why when I tried to reconnect it. it just ran making grindy whirry noises. I pulled the black box with the rod that connected it to the locking mechanism out of the hatch and then removed the six screws that held the cover on. (I think they used a fish based lubricant in it because it smelled horrid when I opened it) Once inside I found the motor with a small metal gear, that was supposed to be meshed with a larger nylon-plastic gear. the teeth of the plastic gear were stripped in one spot, allowing the motor to run continuously when it hit that part of the gear. my first thought was to try and build up the gear teeth with JB Weld or some similar epoxy, but the gear being plastic would likely just shed the attempt. So I found that the drive motor was held in place with a small strap and two small screws. I removed the screws and then drilled the holes on each side of the strap slightly oversized so that I could move the drive motor (and attached gear) closer to the stripped gear, giving it more "bite". I then secured it in the new close position and reassembled the whole thing and hey-presto! the silly thing WORKED! It still works, and that was over a week ago that I did this little modification. If I have to do it to one of the other ones, I will take photos. Otherwise, I am not disturbing it because it seems happy. I WISH there were a decent parts yard nearby where I could pull one just for a photo op. it really is a simple fix and well within the mechanical aptitude of most of us here. and now all of the wagons electric door locks work! Yay! Respectfully, Timothy

You can go ahead and get the parts yard ignition, and still only use one key. Here is how... Once you get the ignition cylinder and key, take your new ignition key, and your old door key in to your local locksmith (usually one of the department store key makers cannot do this) and have them cut ONE SIDE of the key blank with the pattern off of the door key, and the OTHER SIDE of the blank with the pattern off the ignition key. then have them file a small notch on one side of the hey head (only one side) so you can tell if it is facing the right way for (ignition lock, or door lock). The secret to our older style locks is that they ONLY READ ONE SIDE OF THE KEY! so you could even have ONE KEY to fit TWO SUBARU'! provided that the key styles are the same. I used to do this for customers all the time at the hardware store when they would need a key (or two) for similar vehicles. It also works for FORD, CHRYSLER, GM and many others that have the double sided keys. One side up works doors and trunk/hatch, flip it over for the ignition...OR one side up for the green Subaru, the other side up for the red one! BUT you have to have a key maker who understands what you want done...that is why I said that most department stores that make keys won't be able to. It's not illegal, it's not immoral, and it's convenient as heck! Respectfully, Timothy

About the tape... I think its either Silcher and Skyrud, or a bluegrass tape. (heck, might even be Alan Parsons project, I was checking the deck with whatever I had on hand) By the way, I got the deck for a whopping $2 at a yard sale! I play Bass with a Bluegrass band, (the Mike and Tari Conroy Band, real old timey stuff) But mandolin and fiddle (sometimes 12 string guitar) with my Folk group. (tin cup) yeah, I'm in two bands! it's a hobby, and keeps me sane. That, and now exploring the mountain trails with the Subaru! Fun things! Pax vobiscum timothy

Added this, Yeah, I know, its a cassette deck. But it's a 1988 Subaru, that I intend to take out and drive often. it replaced a worn out clarion with display issues. (also a cassette) the bummer is that I had to hardwire it in. Whomever originally put in the first aftermarket radio cut the harness. Irritating and troublesome for future retro-fitting. But not insurmountable. could only post the one photo, need to resize others. Or maybe I'll just leave it as is. Oh! I also added some bass! That is the reason I need the wagon, Gotta haul this monster around. Yeah, its large (and older than I am) but even so, it is FAR better than playing accordion! (yeah, I've done that too, I still have nightmares over it) Having trouble resizing photos, probably for the best. Such is life... Respectfully,

From the top of Nez Perce Pass, bitterroot-selway wilderness One rusty subaru, one fun drive to paradise! (Paradise Guard Station, Selway Wilderness, Idaho)

I've used it to put case halves together, just a thin coating on the mating surfaces and a piece of thread and the two surfaces never leaked on me (conti in a J3 Piper recertified as EXPERIMENTAL, so we could actually work on it ourselves) I like the stuff, but you have to have good, meaning CLEAN and TRUE surfaces to mate up. it won't cover any sins like nicks or gouges, warps or scrapes to the surfaces being joined. if it will mate up clean and true, then I'd say the stuffs for you. but as with anything, Research it further before committing to it. Best luck, quietly, timothy

Yes, It's not a defect... it's a "feature".

If I remember correctly, the Turbo Trans-Ams from the late '70s (or early '80s - back when they looked like a Trans-Am) had the 350, carbed and turbo charged, but instead of just running the output of the turbo to the intake of the carb, it fed a sealed plenum-box that housed the carb, thus pressurizing the entire fuel delivery system.. Again, if I recall, that was done to keep the seals and little vents from spewing gasoline when under positive pressure, since the entirety of the carb was under pressure. But that was the early days when "Turbocharged" on the side of the vehicle drew crowds and gasps of amazement.

I was feeling poorly at letting my 77 wagon sit in the driveway while I try and sort or source a functional powerplant for her. So I got her a pet. 1988 GL10 Turbo Wagon. (this one is 4x4 and-gasp-RUNS!!) so now my 1977 is no longer alone in the driveway! 1977 and 1988...now all I need is a 1966 and a 1999 and a 2000 and a 2010 and a 2020 - wait, getting ahead of myself... Maybe I will stick with what I have, and be grateful that I am equipped with twin Subarus! (Subaru? Subarai?) Whatever... I gots two and am happy that they are no longer alone! (it's good to have friends, no?) Laughingly, Timothy Edited for to add photos (apologies, forgot that "without pictures, it's just a story".)