Tsuru

I was not sure where to post this, it isn't a BRZ but it embodies what the BRZ is. Specifically this website... https://www.factoryfive.com/kits/project-818/ What a kick that would be... But then again, isn't what the BRZ kinda is...? Now I'm torn between one of those or a kit Cobra... (too many choices) dreamingly, Timothy

I wholeheartedly concur! Something about that old school Toyota color, kinda screams "Warning!" without actually screaming it. shoot it in a two part epoxy base, that way, as it gets wrinkled (pushing the others out of the way), it won't ever chip or scratch. (and a black stripe somewhere...please give it a black stripe?) Love what you are doing! and usually I'm a purist when it comes to restorations, but this...this is a work of motherfreaking ART! I love it and support your right (hell yeah, I said RIGHT!) to create such a creature! Please...continue... Admiringly, Timothy

If you roll a Subaru, you are driving in a situation that the vehicle was not intended to be in. The Ford F150, while quite capable, won't sidehill as readily as the Subaru, due to the center of gravity being higher. (i'm running a Ford Ranger with over 250,000 miles on it. so the ford trucks are long living, my Bronco was still running strong when I sold her with 220,000 on it, the F150 I gave to my friend with over 197,000 over ten years ago and she is still running it) The F150, if 4X4, (and you are in PA? you could use 4X4) will need to be manually selected (push button or rotary knob) and I recommend manual hubs, the auto hubs aren't all that great for anything except casual, occasional 4X use, they unlock when you let off the throttle, are coasting, or pointed downhill and using compression braking. The Subaru (later models) are pretty much full time all wheel drive, no wondering if your hubs are locked, or when would be a good time to select 4X4.You just drive it and it gets you there! The stock Subaru is really not a full blown offroader, it can be made into a quite capable offroader, (lifted with skidplates, brushguards, lights, winches etc, etc) but just off the lot, the F150 (4X4) is more capable of traveling where the roads aren't If you are just going to trail run, national forest kind of "offroad" then the Subaru should serve you quite well. Mileage, the Subaru will win hands down, the best I could manage with my twin tanked, short bed, 5 speed, 300-6 F150 was 30, and that was on a mississippi run with a tailwind (and a can of seafoam in each tank) The averages were closer to 18-20MPG. A tonneau cover helps mileage with the pickup trucks, likewise bed cap/campershell). the one thing I never was fond of about my F150 is that before I got the shell on the bed, I HAD to carry things I purchased in the cab of the truck if I were on a multi stop shopping run. and if I had a passenger along it could get cluttered fast. The Subaru has no such issues. passengers and your groceries travel in secure comfort. I do not know your family size, or your penchant for outings with friends. With the F150 you are limited to three unless you get the extended cab, then five (buckets up front bench seat across back), or six with bench up front as well). Safety, the Subaru (especially the later models) all have excellent crash ratings. the F150 holds its own due to sheer mass. Additionally, the F150 series were made by the double bucketfulls since the dawn of time, parts are readily available at any u-pull it or pick-a-part. You can also buy a cheaper F150 Custom or XT (base line models) and upgrade your way to a fully loaded XLT Lariat just by bolting on what you want, the F150, and F250 share many components, all body panels are the same (within model years) the primary difference being that the frames/axles/running gear are stouter with the F250, and stouter still with the F350. Got a F150 with vinyl seats and door panels, find a F150 in a parts yard with cloth interior and just swap it all out, its all drop in without modifying anything dead simple. Engines are proven in the Fords, likewise the Transmissions (save for the automatics in the 1986 F-series/Econolines and Broncos), the automatic four speed overdrives were prone to slipping and could burn themselves out over time. Engines to consider for the F150, the 300 straight six, super simple and is a torque monster, The 302 (5.0 liter) V8 time tested, hot-roddable 351 (5.7 liter) stout as the cast iron shes forged from, fantastic if you are towing anything, and I mean ANYTHING (this engine is also hot-roddable, drop a cam in this things with forged pistons and a custom engine management system and you are in for one wild ride (at 7 or so mpg). You will also need to consider adding weight to the bed, over the rear axle for traction during the winter. (sand bags, boiler plate, bodies, sacks of cats, cartons of poodles, etc...) the pickup truck is light on the long end by design. I run 225 pounds of sandbags in the rear of my ranger over the Montana Winter here. it helps. If you get an older F150 (mid 1980s),You should know that in 1986 Ford was forced to press into production an untested fuel injection system for their truck line (broncos too), the fuel injection and fuel management system for 1986 was oddball, one of a kind, so nothing for any of the other years will fit or function, if you have a 1986 fullsize bronco or F series truck/Econoline van it's unique. only those 1986 parts will work on the 1986. If it were me, I'd look for a F150 XLT Short bed 4X4 straight six, automatic, manual hubs, 2" lift, skidplated, pushbar/brush guard. winch, full lighting (front, sides, rear) hi-lift jack, bed mounted jerry cans for fuel and water. OR, A late eighties 4X legacy, lifted, custom bumpers, pushguards, read mounted spare, single fuel can, 15" rims, (etc, etc) But this isn't about me. get what you need to get through, 4X4s are going to be cheaper for you in the spring when the need for them isn't so pressing. but for goodness sake, get rid of that dodge...they are real good lookers, but carry the dodge/chrysler (plymouth) curse of being beautiful to look at, awesome to possess and utterly reliable...for the first six months. (I'm speaking from experience) (lean towards the Subaru...you can't go wrong with a Subaru, and this is coming from a Ford guy!) Best of luck on your quest! Respectfully, Timothy

Mmm, Creme Brulee... C'est Bon! Ok, Yes, Seafoam is amazing, my dad DOUBLED his MPG on his rig... Of course his rig was the family RV... The family RV is a 1966 GMC (former) Greyhound PD104 with a big honkin Detroit Diesel. It took about a gallon of seafoam (heh, yeah...it comes in GALLONS too!) and she smoothed right out, purring like a kitten. The problem was dirty injectors. Went from 6MPG to just over 12MPG I'd say thats double, yes? We swear by it here, any long roadtrip gets a fill up with a can of seafoam in the gastank. you can get great mileage doing this (of course you have to drive it sensibly too). all I know about this weird semi-precious fluid is that it works. Happy Motoring. quietly, timothy.

gotcha...1000RPM... I'm Still liking the 4 cylinder perkins idea... Power at 1000RPM... I think it would be better to just go with gearing at that stage, Gear low so the engine will perform within its (factory) powerband. Maintaining its efficiency and peak torque, but at a much lower road speed. I shall fall silent now... Respectfully, Timothy

100RPM!?!? he wants to develop TORQUE WHERE!?! about the only way thats gonna happen (and I do not believe one can with gasoline) is with a radical cam (and cam timing), custom ignition and valve timing, standalone engine management, fuel injection (you are not going to get a steady state draw through a carb at 100 RPM) and sacrifice any higher rev performance. Unless the laws of physics have changed since my serious tinkering days. how about a 4 cylinder perkins diesel? those will chug away merrily at low RPM OR...heck...its a Subaru so they are light anyway...Find you a one lung Lister with a 30 pound flywheel...they are diesel and rock solid little engines. Did I misread that...100 RPM? (looking again...yup, the quote is "100 RPMS") holy cow...good luck with that not saying it cannot be done, but that is below the standard Idle speeds for most (gasoline) engines ever made.. Of course, if you do...we wanna know HOW. curiously, timothy

I've messed around with HHO a bit, built built a nice multi chambered tank by using various diameter stainless pipe and platinum sheet, BUT It doesn't work all that well for offroading, too much jostling around of the tank and you end up ingesting some of the water because the rough roads will slosh it up onto the output tube and send it to your intake. not devastating, not not particularly useful. That and for cold climates, the water (or water blend) you use will freeze, rendering the entire thing one solid state brick and generating nothing. My best results were with my old (2000) Hyundai Elantra, Fuel Injected 2,0 DOHC 4 Cylinder and the 5 Speed Trans. average on a two hour drive on interstate at 65 was close to 50 mpg, but it was a fluke, everything was just right and it all just clicked. I could get 39 mpg out of the car in it's stock condition without adding hundreds of dollars in parts and countless hours of tinkering and adjusting and tuning and...the price of gasoline is cheap by comparison. I stripped everything off the car when I sold it. Never bothered to replicate it again. Not sure I am wanting to. todays cars get so much better efficiency. and like I will state below, I just do not drive far enough or often enough to justify the expense. (or the headache) I will say this, you CANNOT just hook up the 12 volt leads to your "Generator Tank" and expect to have enough free hydrogen to make things work. (If any at all) you MUST have a "Cracking Circuit" that modifies the electrical pulse to match the right frequency at the right voltage and amperage to effectively liberate the hydrogen and oxygen. If you are not into electronics, there are kits out there that have everything pre-built, but you are still going to have to tinker, and this stuff is unreasonably expensive. there is a whole lot of bad information out there. the proper way to do things is out there, but you have to dig for it. is it worth it... Maybe. for the amount of driving I do these days, I do not care about adding on stuff. maybe its the age settling in, but I just do not want to have to fiddle around with fussy bits anymore, I like to just twist the key and go on merrily down the road. the answer to "Does HHO Work?" is yes...but not as simply as you might think. If all one needs is a shot of power, try propane injection, oxygen injection, or good old fashioned nitrous oxide. Otherwise, for steady state constant gentle power, just build up your engine PROPERLY. remember that cooling is your friend, properly operating your engine and transmission lead to a long and happy life. (for the vehicle and occupants). sorry if i've burst any bubbles, but I know the headaches I went through trying to sort out HHO. for me, it simply wasn't worth it. your results may vary. But I had to say something just so half the board didn't go nuts over the idea of HHO. It, (like any obsessive hobby) can get expensive and waste large portions of your life. I'm not saying do not try it, just don't go into it with the pie in the sky idealism of how its going to be the end all of fuel deliverance. Like I said, it does work, but not under all conditions, and not as easily as (most of the sellers out there would have) you think . I think it would prove most useful on a stationary setup. Like a generator, log splitter, irrigation pump. throttling over rough terrain, or in the cold northern climes isn't its environment...not yet at least. Hope I've not killed any dreams out there, But one should go in armed with the facts before undertaking such a thing. having said all that... Go Forth and Tinker! Respectfully, Timothy (No, I will not field any questions pertaining to HHO, I've suffered enough)

If you are asking for forgiveness, you shall not receive it from me. For your posting needs no excuse, it stands as testament to your experiences, and for you to share is a noble and forthright undertaking. many bear the headaches without a guide of rational understanding, it's all trial by error and "hmm, this looks like it (BANG) should (gruntSLAM) fit. (prypryprySNAP!) you just may have saved someones sanity. Your request for absolution is hereby denied. The findings are that no apologies are neccessary. Carry on... Respectfully, timothy

is 1977 considered "Later"? I'm assuming that the wiring is there to connect to and its just lying behind the dash awaiting something useful to do. the console/dash part is not critical, and a "loose" clock would be acceptable. (I just will forgo the install of an aftermarket radio as I hatehatehate to hack up a dash, or any other part of a vehicle) While you are on the sift, I'm going to need a driver side (for the US, so thats a LEFT) Front door panel, Black Vinyl as was found in the 1977 DL Wagon. ALSO any chance on a passenger side mirror? or how about some correct fender mount mirrors? Thanks for diggysifting.

Ya got a price in mind, Moosens? I might be interested, especially is it says CITIZEN on it. I think I'd like to find another dash as well, this one it too perfect for me to hack up and if I had one that was less than stellar, I could mount up a cassette player as well. (yeah, I said cassette...My recording studio is digital, but all my instruments are acoustic...go figure) Of course I'm still needin' an engine. (all my leads seem to have stalled out on me) Anyone have a spare runnable EA71 (circa 1977,/78)? I finally sorted out the paperwork so I can put some time and effort into it without having the nephew of the previous owner breathing down my neck (he was pissed when I got the car instead of him) Public notice...Attorneys can be a pain in the rump roast... Shakespeare had it right when he said "First thing, Let's kill all the Lawyers" Ahh, isn't English literature enlightening? Seriously, Moosens, the clock...I desire one... (there could be a beer in it for ya!) Twistedly, Timothy

Yeah? What's up with THAT?!? I might could grasp the rationale IF the power-train or some other MAJOR engineering component were transplanted into the vehicle (5 cyl diesel/ suspension and trans) from a BMW... Otherwise it is just "Badge engineering" and offends my sensibilities. Thats not Stateside somewhere, is it? (checks arsenal for appropriate dispatch hardware, selects Ithaca Model 37 and HP rifled slugs) really, such a beautiful clean vehicle and look at the lie it is being forced to live. Tragic...simply tragic... (rethinks the Ithaca, puts it away and grabs a bar of soap and a sweat sock...) ...sigh...

A caution about Taurus' (the Vehicle, not the astrological sign) The transmissions are the only truly weak point in the vehicle. Otherwise they are pretty tough and reliable vehicles. The Ford engineered four wheel (all wheel) ABS system as found on the early taurus, was one of the first that actually allowed you to steer while under full brake, Try to steer a Chevy Impala or Caprice through a curve with the brake pedal stomped and it would pull you into a straight line, this was 1980's vehicles I'm talking about here, anything with ABS now works like it should and allows you to retain control. it was a selling point that helped to make the choice for the Law enforcement community (remember the Law enforcement Taurus Cars...rare now). again the downfall for those were the transmissions. Otherwise, pretty good cars. Oh, the Ford Windstar has the same flaw with the transmissions, as they were basically the ford Taurus/Mercury Sable platform in a van config. and is there a "lesser" vehicle Grossgary? I do agree with you, which is basically drive what you want and what you like. if it keeps the weather out and gets you there and back reliable, why not run it? After all, every vehicle has it's quirks. some you can live with, others can truly inconvenience your existence. quietly, timothy

"So ugly, it's CUTE!" gottta love those little beasties, Congratulations! If I were you I'd drive it to the mall on any Friday night, and park next to those teenagers with their daddys WRX's and laugh out loud, If they even bat an eye you can scream out "Respect your Elders!" then turn up your AM radio and leave them wondering just what the heck just happened. yup. Laghingly, Timothy

Actually... It IS a Toyota... http://www.guideautoweb.com/en/articles/3357/pontiac_vibe_vs._toyota_matrix_six_of_one,_a_half-dozen_of_the_other/ Aside from the knee-jerk reaction (a WHAT?!? have you lost your MIND?!?) they are very reliable, practically maintenence free, well built vehicles. if its cheap enough, go for it. If its too much, find a good clean used Subaru. (Go Team FUJI!) Just my opinion... quietly, timothy

this is dangerous territory... some consider the argument of "Automatic vs Manual" to be as touchy a subject as Religion and Politics. I am enjoying the civility which is being expressed here. With respect for each others opinions, and experiences. I see some common threads in off road failures, One is lack of maintenance. simple thing really, but often never truly considered. Especially important in getting a used vehicle, look it over carefully. Odds are that they didn't have the same idea about things as you do. Another is using the wrong vehicle for the task. Yes, I know we all had that "starship/jet fighter" moment when we believe that we are screaming through the universe, beholden only to ourselves, truly and firmly believing that our Pinto/Fiat/MG Midget/Lumina would carry us to the ends of the earth and back. Truth is, very few vehicles can actually go seriously offroading or even trail running without issues. They just weren't built for it. (although some can handle abuse better than others) One big cause for failure is overbuilding. some transmissions, I'll refrain from pointing fingers here, just were not intended to handle a properly built up engine. clutches and gears were designed to function under "normal" day in and day out driving. for 99% of the civilized world that meant pavement and maintained dirt roads. Put a bored and stroked 400+ HP Ford or Chevy in front of a stock transmission and it will fail. The economics of manufacturing a beefy transmission is not good for the bottom line of the manufacturer. Likewise are the transfer cases. In other words, they build them as cheaply as possible. There is a standing command from Ford (and I am sure Chevy and the others follow suit) that if any of it's suppliers can shave off $0.01 (that's one cent US, folks) from each component or part, that they are to do so. they look for the cheapest way to manufacture, without adversely affecting integrity or safety. Sure their products all work great (usually). they just aren't bullet proof (or resistant to small arms fire). this is just my opinion, and it wasn't asked for. you may disregard any or all of it and I'll not take offense. But in my 47+ years of roaming this earth, I have learned a few things. One of which is: If you want a truly capable off road vehicle, you almost have to build it yourself. (and not cut corners.) It is all good for something, and all good for nothing. Just depends on what you do with it. quietly, timothy

Yes, and I am willing to bet that those were poorly operated, insufficiently cooled, and rarely maintained units. I can kill an automatic on flat pavement if its been abused and operated beyond its capabilities. So unfortunately, yes, for ultimate reliability in a trail vehicle a nice four speed (who in the heck needs a fifth gear on the trails?) will stand the test of time, but for us real part-timers an automatic can be your best friend (or if abused, or poorly maintained, your worst nightmare). still, there's nothing like an old M151-A1 fully articulated with a set of coopers crawling in first over everyfreakingthing in sight. ahhh...simplicity... Build it, run it, rock on! laughingly, timothy

not really reliable for serious offroading, dust, water crossings, caked mud. all enemies of the electric drive. Of course, of you can seal it up AND still maintain the cooling required for the motor (they generate acres of heat) then you'd be in business.

A decent cooler, and synthetic fluid should keep things operational. I've seen the radiator out of the 1200 Honda Goldwing with a small electric (thermostatic controlled) fan used very successfully in several rigs out in the Arizona Deserts. The automatics were used because there was some rock crawling involved as well as some wide open across the valley floor blasts, for all around offroading I have to agree, an automatic really helps things along. (an automatic with a skid plate, gotta protect the bottom of that case at all costs) I used to take my 6800# fullsize Bronco with 5.0 and the (stupid) AOD4 offroading all the time, the neat thing about autos is that you can point the thing downhill, and throw it in reverse, locked in 4x2 low (4x4 selected with the hubs unlocked) you just crawl down with the throttle used as the brake, add throttle to slow your descent, if you touch too much throttle then only the rear wheels spin, you can still steer, then use brakes if you need to. handy. Yeah, I know there are purists who claim you cannot do that without damaging the tranny, and yes, if you are screaming downhill (or even just on the flat) at any rate of speed and throw it into reverse, bad things can (and should) happen. (remember, physics is the devils volleyball...) I've been doing it that way ever since...well ever since I've been driving and have yet to tear up a tranny. (TH400s are bullet-resistant, TF727s are flat out indestructible) Point downhill, come to full stop, engage reverse, ease down with the transmission and engine dragging torque. Of course its a REAL SLOW descent, like walking/crawling speed, but its fully controlled and one does not have to deal with braking. With a good (read that as aftermarket) trans cooler its an effective means of traversing God's green (and brown and red and purple) earth. Sounds like you are on the right track with the auto. Keep us posted, (please) adventurously timothy

Bravo Heartless, well played!

Don't forget, it needs to breathe freely, restrictive intakes are death to torque, but by the same token, too open and they won't develop proper cyclic flow and will impede torque development as well. -OR- propane injection... solenoid valves, flex tubing to the intake, flip a switch, power up and go. (its popular here in the Montanas) truthfully I do not know if that even works, to my thinking, it is counterproductive at low RPMs but I know a couple of guys out here who swear by it. (never ridden with them, so I cannot say for certain) and yes, this on on normally aspirated gasoline fueled engines. Although...I hear is a hoot in a diesel!

well, at least the electrical issues have not taken its toll on the alternator. and whatever you do, try not to bake that engine...I have plans for that eventually, (no hurry though). (heehee) timothy

It is a frustrating thing to lose trust in something (people, vehicles, toaster ovens) once that trust is lost, you find yourself apprehensive and second guessing every aspect of "normal". too bad there is no way to quickly regain that trust. The only way is to have faith and...trust...that it will be okay, but as they say, "Trust, but VERIFY". Like you had mentioned before, and something that we ALL here 100% agree upon, There is NOTHING like doing your own wrenching, it is the only fully guaranteed way to know if something is done the way it should be done, and the way you need it to be done. (to the best of ones abilities, and tool set of course) plus its a really awesome feeling to know that the parts that have your fingerprints on them, are the parts that are carrying you along the trail, where you are free to enjoy the scenery instead of worrying about some minimum paid flunky with a less than sterling work ethic having properly set up and/or assembled whatever critical component needed to promote happiness and well being in your humble little existence. Yup, the only real way to know, it to do it your owndangself. (if one has the freaking time!) Glad it all worked out for you Heartless. sad that it had to be a wall of displeasure to get around. Have faith in the vehicle, its a Subaru, if they did it correctly, theres nothing to fear. (until faith is restored, however, we will be watching and praying for you) Respectfully, Timothy

Excellent plan, Yes, just so long as they admit and correct their mis-wrenching. it's sad to lose a (good) garage, but I have dealt with poor garages (and car dealerships) and as far as I am concerned they can all rot in hell. Best hopes that they are willing to save their reputation. Please let us know the outcome of your endeavors? watchingly, Timothy

Tragic... You need to bake some brownies for them as a good will gesture...loaded with ex-lax and senokot. then before you leave plug up the toilet. not that I am advocating such behavior in a public forum...but still. Hopefully its not just a case of "Well - Because you are a female we just thought..." then you can proceed to kick their behinds and with my blessings. I'll pray for your success in whatever path you should decide to undertake. hopefully there is not much lasting damage to your vehicle. (or your serenity) as I said... Prayers for you... silently, timothy