Tsuru

OOooh...Nice.

"Clutch bypass" would just be a jumper to close the contacts (or open them in some cases, depending on how it's wired in the first place) All that is needed is to get the right signals to the controller, and wire it so the controller can flip the right relays at the right times. In the world of Plug and Play this might not be possible. but I have discovered that this board, and the members comprising this aforementioned board, are the robust Do it Your (owndangself) kind of folk. trun any number of them loose with a BRZ, an off the shelf Universal remote starter kit, bits of wire, connectors, maybe a multimeter and a schematic, and it WILL happen. (oh, and snacks, maybe a beverage or two to "enhance" the thinking processes) it's just like herding, you just gotta get the electrons from point "A" to point "whatever" through gates (relays/switches/transistors) through slogs (capacitors/chokes/resistors) down one way streets (diodes/triodes/pentodes)...like a miniature flea circus, these electrons perform for us as we (hopefully) wish them to. I helped put a remote start on my friends VF750F back in the day, it was pretty cool, but we wired the interlock to the neutral lamp circuit. just in case. Neutral lamp on, remote start...lamp off...no go. The honda dealer said it could not be done... My friend worked as a subcontractor on defense missile projects. He hated being told that "It couldn't be wired that way..." ...hide and watch...

I was considering FUJIMARU. But maybe something like 77 FUJI or maybe even 1977 FUJI with a license plate frame that reads "Respect Your Elders"

Saw this in Downtown Hamilton the other day... I know its not really an older Subaru, but it's neat nonetheless.

You forgot to factor in the absolute theft resistance that such a paint job offers. You simply cannot hide anywhere in a vehicle like that. Like the VW Golf (Rabbit) Harlequins from the 1990s (?). Officer: "now tell me again...WHAT COLOR WAS IT?" Victim: "here's a picture..." Officer: "...oh..."

I am willing to bet that any subaru engine, driven like it was still in its homeland of Japan, would last a lifetime. this means driving slowly, and not too far. As of 1984 the national speed limit on the highway (in Northern Japan) was 60KPH... Figure that one out...(in case you don't want to figure, it's roughly 37.282 Miles per hour!) This may have changed since then, but taking an engine that was built to handle that sort of Insane (lack of) speed, and bringing it over here (the US) and running it at 55MPH (the National speed limit here back then) would really shorten their lives. They are not high revving beasties, so most of that was solved through gearing, but still the engines were not really built with this sort of punishment in mind. Of course I'm talking VINTAGE Subaru running gear. Modern should (should) be a different story altogether. If I am wrong somebody with the proper knowledge please (respectfully) correct me. But I am pretty certain of this having spent some time in Northern Japan. It really is a different way of thinking about vehicles. Hyundai had similar issues with its transmissions right up until the year 2000 with its automatics in their Elantra and Tiburon models, they just couldn't hack the speeds and the distances. Of course Ford Taurus has its share of transmission issues too. falling silent... Timothy

International Harvester engines were like that, Rebuild them with a brand new Fel-Pro Gasket set and they run like poop. (heh, I typed "poop") All because the original head gaskets were just a single thickness of copper. The Fel -Pro replacements were about three times thicker! didn't look like much, but it was enough to gap the valley pan clearance, (read that as OIL LEAKS from Heck!) and drop the compression ratios down to about 6:1... Not bad if all you wanted to do was look at it, but starting and running it? Don't get in a hurry to go anywhere. Shaving the heads (or decking the block) Made all the difference in the world! Maybe for subarus it would too?

it is just the ingestion of air...you can silence it with the proper dampeners, but risk losing the velocity of flow that immediately translates into horsepower (even the fractional horsepower we early subaru drivers hoard with wild abandon). Yup... sometimes the noise is directly related to performance... sometimes it is just noise... (Turn up the stereo, the noise will go away)

...from which end...I wonder...

The canister is never supposed to even see raw fuel. It's designated purpose it to trap the VAPORS vented off the tank. If there is raw fuel in the canister because of expansion then the tank was overfilled, OR there is something wonky with the line being able to pick up fuel instead of just worrying about the vapors.

I forgot to add that you should check your coil, SOME of them actually have the resistor INSIDE the coil case, no external ballast required! They will be marked on the casing as such, Just so you know. Thought I'd better let it be known, because if you have an external ballast resistor, and try to run an internally ballasted coil with it, the average voltage to the coil will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 3VDC...not enough to really run (if it will even fire reliably). My work here is done... quietly, timothy

Ballast resistor for power to coil. You do not want full 12VDC (ok, 13.5 on a perfect day) going to your ignition system, you will fry the points in short order, they will arc and pit, and so will the rotor and contacts inside the cap. having said that... Most vehicles have a temporary bypass that ALLOWS the full 12VDC (ok again, 13.5 on a perfect day) to the system for starting, When the ignition key is turned, the full power is given for starting. when released it drops back through the ballast resistor. you can make a bypass switch (three way toggle) that allows full power/ballasted (normal) power/and OFF! (theft prevention) Why? Because it really gives a hotter spark, great for those "oh heck" moments when you need just a little more oomph. hills, pulling out into traffic, stuff like that. Not a good idea to run it like that all the time though, its hard on the ignition components. Nifty part is the off position, Zero power to the ignition, and it will not start for nothing with or without the key. its good to have options. Of course none of what I have said applies to any electronically controlled ignition systems. black boxes full of witchcraft if ya asks me guvn'r. yessir, witchcraft, an' no good can come of it if ya asks me.. heehee, timothy

they can get old however and lose efficiency, becoming just a canister that has some old charcoal in it.. Absorption rates decline over the years to the point of uselessness, Yes, it is supposed to help keep fuel vapors out of the atmosphere, (when fairly new) and yes, it actually can (very marginally) help with (ever so slightly) increasing the mixture (useful during cold starts) but after a few years they are just pieces of equipment that no longer really work "as advertised". hence the environmental slam. Otherwise I concur, They aren't in any way a drag on the engine, and if it came with it, why not use it. I'm not a fan of deleting emissions items, but am appalled at the prices for replacing said items. Canisters are not cheap, starting at around $50 and going up from there for a plastic box with charcoal in it! and neither are cats. $65 and up to hundreds. granted, you only have to do it once, and compared with what we are all used to doing here, the labor is a non issue. My suggestion is that if you are going through the trouble to keep it, Why not replace it with a good fresh one? unless you just want it there for looks. or to smuggle things in... yup... heehee, timothy

If you still have the corvair powerplant, and want to get top dollar for it, list it on any aircraft site...there are many corvairs in the air. (and a few subarus too and half VW engines as well) If you really wanted to get all nutty about your project, you could find a good running (but out of spec for airworthiness certification) flat 6 Lycoming, or Continental. they are dead simple aircooled engines and sound really nifty.

Careful running the rear only off of that Subaru transmission, If I recall correctly, the rear drive acts only as a supplemental power drive, and you can chew up the tranny running only rear output. Somebody please correct me if I am mistaken on this point.

How environmentally irresponsible of you!!! (you deserve a cookie!)

Actually...was thinking about ones for my EA71...wagon... I know they were done for other countries. just not the states.

Funny, there are more subarus in use throughout the Pacific Northwest...One would think that better odds would be served here... But what do I know about marketing and other black arts?

Woohoo! Lettin my edumactor friend here of this hear stuff! Yup, we be all about edumacashion up in here! Seriously, I shall forthwith contact my associate and advise her that you would be willing to consider additional responses to your request for "Subaru Teachers". I am certain quite that she would be most interested in participating. Thank you for your willingness to at least consider the rest of the country in your quest for stories of merit. I do believe that you shall not be met with disappointment. (even though I know there is slim chance for use, it is nice to be considered) Thank You. quietly, Timothy

I am wondering which ones would be the most close to stock for that year? Looks like I should do some research...Any Ideas where to begin?

Bummer, only accepting New York Area educators. I know of one here in Montana...but that is far and apart from New York...

Anyone know where I could source some fender mirrors for my '77 wagon? I think those would be too freaking cool.

Spell that...Obsession and you'd be closer. although I wish they had a decent pull/pick-a-part place here...because there isn't. (and that just plain sucks). Love the Fender Mirrors by the way.

cheap insurance, Good on you Lad! Good on you!

yay! Scientific factual information! I am lurking on this one out of sheer morbid fascination!