Tsuru

Glad it wasn't to the eye... Ouch either way. Glad you survived.

Yes, Exactly. A good bank of batteries (preferably deep cycle, like marine or golf cart batteries) is best, these can be charged through a bank charging system, connected to the mains, Or Solar panel, or wind turbine, or harvested from a stream or river using hydro turbines, or a generator (redundant there, since you could just power from the generator directly) Ideally you would also have a break-over switching panel that connects the inverter to your house circuits. Such a panel would have to be wired in by someone who knows what they are doing. what it does is ISOLATE your house from the power companys lines into your home. and transfers to receiving power from your "In house" power supply. That is if you wish to run a few selected outlets in your home from the in house bank. Otherwise, just run (heavy duty) extension cords for essentials (big screen tv, xbox, margarita blender...) Many use golf cart batteries in pairs, (they are six volts each) that way if a cell fails in a battery they are not replacing a full six cell 12 volt battery, only a three cell six volt unit. It can be quite a spendy thing, OR it can be done on the cheap. After hurricanes Ivan (and consequentially Katrina) Damaged our home in Florida we all pooled our resources, food, gas grills, coleman lanterns, radio gear, chainsaws, etc. a couple of folks had inverters that clipped onto the cars battery, we all learned that they can suck a cars battery flat in no time at all. generators were shared, those inverters ran a small fan (so we could sleep at night) clipped to a battery set on the floor, then during the day, those of us lucky few with generators (and fuel to power them) used the 12 volt ports to charge neighbors batteries. Back to topic... You can just run car batteries and connect the inverter, but they use a lot of juice. Also keep in mind that some electronics, (laptops, cellphone chargers, gaming systems) will run on such an inverter, but they will overheat, and in some cases fry your electronics. the reason is that the 110 Volts being produced is a "clipped" or "square wave" 60hz as opposed to a "full wave" 60hz. that that means to the electronics is that there is a brief interval (60 times a second) where the electrical power is not flowing smoothly (on an oscilloscope this can be seen as more of a square, sharp wave. electricity from your outlet is a true sine wave, undulating sensuously across the screen, full bodied and oh so curvy. This soothes your electronics, keeping them happy (who wouldn't be?). The square wave that is artificially generated actually induces heat into the electronics. The Harbor Fright unit reads as a "Modified Sine Wave" that might not be any easier on the electronics aspect of things. But please read the fine print on that and see if its really compatible with electronics. If you are only going to run appliances that do not have electronics, refrigerators, manual control (not electronic keypad) air conditioners, household lighting, and the like you should be fine. http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/country-living-forums/alternative-energy/479293-harbor-freight-inverters.html http://www.survivalistboards.com/showthread.php?t=249054 Hope this helps somewhat.

I realize that words are just words and anyone halfway savvy with the language can sway opinion, therefore, I offer this as evidence... As removed from my 1991 Ranger 3.0, 5speed. 198,000 miles on these components. Installed May 2005, pulled secondary to engine swap will be reinstalled and run for another 198,000+ miles. (actually figuring that this will be the last time I pull the engine for any reason. This is from a daily driver, I was using this vehicle for insurance property inspections, close to 150 miles a day, stop and go, traffic, heat of the day, Didn't shut the truck off all day long, save for refueling maneuvers. (some of that "hard service" stuff you have read about in your owners manuals) Pulling my boat, pulling my travel trailer, hauling assorted and various things. travelingtravelingtraveling! I am not posting to rile anyone up, or to stir any pots. I am just saying that engine braking is not detrimental PROVIDED you use some common sense about it. (clutch wear my rump roast...Use quality stuff and run it the way the manufacturer, and the laws of physics say to) soo... Happy Motoring and consider the physical limitations of your equipment, if you have to trust your life to it...why go cheap? Nothing further your Honor. Be at peace with each other. quietly, timothy Edited for grammatical errors, some left in anyway.

Ok, I'll play this silly little game... There are many forces acting upon a vehicle in motion, but let's just concentrate on Acceleration and Drag (forward and not so much forward) With the engine running, and in first gear, in idle on level ground it is wanting to go forward. Everyone still with me here...good...there's more... if there is a slight incline down (relative to the vehicle) the engine is still trying to drive the vehicle forward, BUT, the engine will only turn so fast at idle. THUS (and this is the fiddly bit) The engine cannot drive forward as fast as the vehicle wants to go... AND The engine will only "DRIVE" the vehicle up to a certain speed. THEREFORE Drag is induced, maintaining some semblance of control over the acceleration of the vehicle. (not considering other factors, this is a simplified illustration) Think of it like this... You take your dog for a walk, if you do not have one it's okay, this is a thought experiment, you can just make one up. You put it on a leash because you are a conscientious pet owner, and do not want a repeat of the Poodle/Greyhound (the 5:45 for salt Lake city) incident from 1985. You and your dog are walking at 5 miles per hour, there is no acceleration felt by you (remember all things are relative...except your goofy aunt, no one claims her after last July and the potato salad incident, who knew a bikini could hold so much potato sala-oops, sorry) then you stop. the dog wants to go on. Lets say you have a poodle. (lets say you need a better dog...but you can upgrade later) the resistance felt as the dog tries to go on are the combined forces of drag/acceleration. you are stopped (or stopping) and the dog is attempting to go on... Is the dog "Accelerating"? Depends...remember it is relative. Lets use the ground as a reference, it's there and it's free for our illustrative purposes. If the dog manages to move relative to the ground, it is under acceleration. with you holding it back it's under drag, the resistance factor that keeps it in check. if you "throttle up" and run after the dog, you are "releasing the brake" and away the dog goes...straight for the Greyhound terminal and onto that damned 5:45 outbound for Salt Lake. Ok its a basic illustration, but I didn't see a consistent frame of reference in the arguments presented. And the argument that it wears out clutches faster,.I have no evidence that this is so. I've just pulled the engine out of my Ranger (1991 XLT 5 speed) It has had exactly one clutch replacement in it's lifetime, and that was at 300,000 miles, I know because I did it. Did it NEED it? no, the throwout bearing was screaming, and needed replaced, so the whole assembly got uprated bits. By the way, the engine let a headgasket go at 400,098 miles...so do NOT LECTURE ME about how it WEARS OUT AND ENGINE AND CLUTCH...it just does not if you use the clutch as intended, and do not slip it all the time. I have however, seen them blow up, Guys going downgrade in a fullsize Chevy 4X4, Manual tranny in first, Transfer Case in low range 4X4, they hit 15mph and decide to give the engine a rest and push in the clutch...suddenly their braking force from the engine is gone...and the compound gearing spins the clutch beyond its ability to - well - spin. Makes a real mess of things, If you are lucky its only vehicle parts to replace, and not human body bits. As far as shifting... I've been a Professional driver for over 20 years. (and a lot of hands on vehicle drivers training on top of that) So any discussion on any particular techniques I take with a grain of salt. Having said that, Here is what I have done for pretty much all my driving life. (I learned to drive stick in a 1957 Triumph TR3A so I started out with the good stuff) When up shifting I pull the tranny out of gear without using the clutch, by easing up slightly on the throttle. If I am familiar with the vehicle (as in only with my own equipment) I then feather the throttle down and put light pressure on the stick for the next highest gear, you do NOT want to push firmly on the stick until it is ready to go into gear. you just want to "feel the grease between the cogs" it will tell you when it is ready to shift. you can run the gears all the way up that way, easier of course if you have a tachometer. (shift points for your personal vehicle, learn them, it makes a difference!) Downshifting is similar in technique, ease up on the throttle (just like you are going to push the clutch in, only don't push the clutch in) then slip it out of gear into neutral... At this point you CAN go ahead and push the clutch in and complete the down shift, it is the SAME THING as double clutching only with one less motion. OR, you can feather the throttle up to match engine to road speed while putting LIGHT pressure on the gear shift lever. Remember, you are "feeling the grease..." In anyone elses vehicle I shift the standard way, clutch in, shift, clutch out. (it isn't mine to do as I please even though I have proven on countless vehicles that its easier on the drive and engine) The clutch should only be "slipped" when starting to move from a stop. Otherwise treat it like an On-Off switch. ESPECIALLY if you have a ceramic clutch! those do not just wear out when abused, they BREAK! (it is a very expensive sound to hear a clutch go out) Engine braking, either with a Jake or not, has saved my life on many occasions, There are times where I have nearly gotten into trouble with it too! Icy or slick conditions, you want ALL FOUR (or as many as you have) wheels providing a balanced slowing force, if its just the drive wheels (front or rear) and you are using engine braking, you run the risk of them breaking loose, In an 18 wheeler that means jackknife in no time flat because your drive wheels are right in the middle of what's going on and when they break free of their earthly bonds they want to get out in front and see what all the fuss is about. Rear wheel drive vehicles means a spin. Remember, a skidding or sliding wheel will want to overtake, thats why drift cars can corner the way they do, the rear wheels slide out with more acceleration and tuck back in line with slightly less throttle. You can do it on a motorcycle too, its fun! Since I'm flying my credentials here I'll add that I have also had many hours of Emergency Vehicle Advanced Driving Education (EVADE), I'm qualified to drive everything from fire trucks to ambulances and Enforcement vehicles (Includes armored trucks, dump trucks, straight trucks, bus' and 18 wheelers). at one time I could outdrive 95% of the general population, but age and caution has brought that number way down I am sure. I have to sit back usually when these discussions come up, quite entertaining. I am NOT pointing fingers or casting blame here, but it is fun to watch some bring up "experiences" that they have had and banner it as gospel for all to obey. "Thou Shalt" doesn't usually work for me without consideration of the source. I try and follow this basic philosophy when it comes to vehicles: "Use the best parts you can afford, drive as efficiently as you can, help others as often as possible whether it be with wrenching, troubleshooting, or just plain listening." And in my personal existence: "Go Placidly amidst the noise and haste and remember what peace there may be in silence..." to that sweet silence I now return... Peacefully, Timothy

Thank you for the edification! Amazing stuff. Early Japanese vehicles showed some real creativity for the domestic market, it's like they got all of the silliness out of their system before perfecting things for other markets. 10" wheels...wow... "lets pull in here and get some off roading ATV tires, yeah I know its a hardware store, but they have wheelbarrow tires that would look mighty fine on this ride!" heehee thank you JesZek!

Yes,Very nice Subaru! Knowing the Japanese and their quirks, I am betting that none of us here in the States would even FIT in the silly little thing. it would be teeny. those guys in the photo probably average 5'5 and about 110# maybe. (that isn't a racist statement by the way, I'm half Japanese and when I visited my relatives over there I was WAAY TALLER than...well...everybody! I was constantly hitting my head against doorways there, and I'm only 6' 2"!) Like I said, I'm half, Dad was a Texan! The Tortoise is not running the 4 X 140 wheels, those look almost like...well...with the lugs apparently on the perimeter of the hub...just under...yes, I see it now, look, see...right...there! they are right around the inner portion of the rim itself...kind of like the mobile home wheels (murphy wheels), or...VW? Likely something unique and unusual to match the rest of the vehicle... By the by, French for Tortoise is Tortue, which after being Anglicized (butchered and adulterated) becomes the well known word "Tortoise". (it could also be the root of the word torture i suppose) Odd though, here in the states the turtle and the tortoise are distinctive, (Sea turtle, Desert Tortoise) Oh well...Much for to learn still. (and the more I know, the more I become acutely aware of how stupid I truly am) And life goes on. quietly, timothy

I like that it is actually ENGINEERED and not just hacked together, you can see the thought and care gone into this project. Lovely stuff! Actually RUNS IT! not afraid to take it out and use it! This is the guy you want to take with you on any serious trail ride...(gotta have a decent Tech with you that understand the "interconnectedness of things") Bravissimo!

And yet again I am reminded how I am ignorant in many things. I used them on marine applications, small high rev fours mostly, so my experience with them is rather limited...it doesn't change my love for them though. I like simple. I did have an electronics savvy friend of mine modify one for his own use, and put it in his vehicle (1960s Ford Falcon Futura) and it did fine, but like I said, he modified it somehow, I never asked. He was Missile Tech at Vandenberg AFB, There was much I didn't ask him... I am now that much smarter on single wire alternators... (yay! thanks!) Wow what a dolt I can be! heehee, timothy

Hats off gentlemen, to single wire Delco alternators Long may they spin... I wasn't excluding the ladies in that statement. For long standing etiquette establishes that they are not required to remove their hats (bonnets if you will) for solemn and somber remembrances, but times being as they are, and all things being equal, they may indeed participate in the removing of hats for to remember the simple greatness of the AC Delco internally regulated, self exciting, single wire alternators if they should choose to do so. spin on little alternator...spin on.... (heehee) timothy

There is rumor of a brat local to Missoula, Montana. I think, it is a later model (four rectangular headlamps and t-tops reportedly in good shape). The good part of the rumor is that the owner wants to sell it and is asking $1500 (one thousand five hundred US dollars!) for it! I have yet to see the vehicle again and as I said, its just rumor at this juncture. even though the source is in my opinion utterly reliable. If I find out more I'll pass it along to the group. I'd hunt it down for myself, but I cannot afford anything right now with both my vehicles down, and several out of state gigs coming up. By the way, I'll be in Kamiah Idaho this weekend if anyone wants to drop by and say hi! Its the annual Sawgrass Idaho Bluegrass association festival at the Lewis and Clark Resort in Kamiah. (its also my birthday saturday, so I'm spending it on stage! Woohoo!) there will be a passel of folks present so just look for the bass player with Mike and Tari Conroy's band, we are borrowing a fiddle player just to round out the group. Find me and say hi! I'll be the guy with the 1949 Kay Blonde Bass, its not all that difficult to spot, and most of the other two Blonde Kays that I'm aware of are being played by womenfolk. You can just show up for some really good music! (I like the stage acts, but Jamming after is what I live for. I'll likely be on bass all weekend, maybe break out the mandolin, or the dulcimer...not sure, Show up, bring an instrument and jam with us! I could even try and find you someone to get a lesson from if you are a beginner. but the best way to learn is just jump in with your guitar (fiddle, mandolin, banjo) join a jam and play along. sorry If I hijacked the thread and carried it way off topic, that was not my intention, Just wanted fellow Subaru folk to know that there might be an inexpensive BRAT roaming the streets. and that I'll be wandering in Kamiah this weekend and would enjoy meeting other Subaru folk! so if you show up, let me know! Busily, Timothy

Congratulations on the job! Wrench with honor!

Exactly, when I rode motorcycles I learned early on that if a component has the potential to kill you if it fails, don't give it the opportunity to fail. get the absolute best (that you can afford) because it really sucks to be all stretched out, leaned over in a decreasing radius turn getting ready to throttle out, and something fails...If I go down on a motorcycle I want it to be because I did something stupid, not because the bike failed me because I was cheap. By the way, the same goes for aircraft...only doubly so. Happy Trails! quietly, timothy edited for grammatical errors: syntax and so forth.

I believe Ivan is referring to either the original flat chrome disk type wheel covers that were held on with a single bolt (or screw, if you will) through the center. you can apply that technique to your subaru center hub type covers by drilling a hole in the center thereof and inserting the appropriate type bolt/screw fastener. (as he mentioned,) a Chromed bumper bolt slotted to accept a screwdriver appears to have brought him satisfactory results. Either that or just use the chromed bolt without the hubcap/wheel cover and cultivate the minimalistic look. You could even weld spikes on it and tear down the road humming the musical score to Mad Max, or Apocalypse Now, or Beethoven's Toccata and Fugue in D Minor , or even His 5th Symphony (its billed as being in a minor key but it ends in a Major key, the epitome of juxtaposition if you ask me! That Beethoven was a crafty son of a gun!) whatever you end up doing, Please take and post photographs. we would be curious to know. (I also am against the same situation, only I am lacking one (of the small) center caps for my stock wagon wheels, I have the plastic center ring remaining on one of the wheels, so I have an idea of what is supposed to be there., the other three wheels do not have the retainer. I was considering using the u-channel notched plastic strip that we used to use for wiring protection as it went through a sheet metal hole, its a white (or black, might be available in different colors as well, I do not know) and fits into the hole, and is held in place by being a "U" channel that covers the metals edge. they come in strips so you can just cut a piece off for the length that you need (for the proper inner circumference of the hole). I have not checked but I am pretty sure it's available in the proper width to cover the thickness of the metal at the center of the wheels. I'm fairly certain that radio shack wouldn't carry anything that wide. I'll have to research that further. Until then, Good Luck! We are a crafty bunch, no? laughingly, Timothy.

I picked up a Bronco II because the owner could not get the steering knuckle off, sold it to me for $500, I spent about 2 hours with it before attacking it with an air tool. Sold it back to him for $600. Sometimes you get lucky, I just don't understand why he didn't just pay me the $100 to fix it for him. Oh wait...he did... I think steering components are difficult to take apart because you really do not want them to just fall apart... Congrats on getting her back on the road where she belongs! Drive Happily! Respectfully, Timothy

Thats it, as I recall the alternator in a kitplane I was messing about with had what I considered to be funky wiring at the time. The field was switchable to effectively kill the alternator, it would still spin, but not charge. I wasn't certain why that was until the owner of the plane explained it to me. "It's an 'OH HECK, THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL LEAK' Switch. for when you do not want any more juice going to the electrical system and leaking all over they sky" (I was about 12 at the time and it seemed plausible...for about 30 seconds!) But it seemed a nifty idea, and a good theft deterrent if you don't mind walking the 15 to 50 miles to find your vehicle. I like the coil to ground technique myself, (or coil output to seat cushion.) many ways to get creative here. Glad you sorted it! quietly, timothy

If you are losing battery charge when not running your have a shorted diode pack in your alternator. The Diodes act twofold, as an A/C to D/C converter and as a one way valve preventing leak through to energize the alternator when not running. OR there is something remaining "on" when your key is on the O-F-F position, playing electron vampire with your battery. my guess is the alternator remaining in a charged field coil state with the ignition switch off. If I am incorrect in this please someone for goodness sake correct me as I have been spouting this ever since I can remember. (Please be gentle, and sure to utilize small words. as I am slow of study these days. Being overfull of self affairs, my mind is likely to lose it) quietly, timothy

another thing to consider, Today's Synthetic lubricants are far superior to the good old fashioned "all purpose wheel bearing and chassis" greases of yesterday. but here is the thing, If you run a decent quality grease (either OEM spec old fashioned type, or the middle of the road synthetic) you can expect about he same life out of the wheel bearings. Meaning: they will likely outlive you no matter what. <FOR NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS> If you plan on doing a lot of fjording or rivers, crossing the sahara, rock crawling, or live in extreme climates (Phoenix, AZ or Juneau, AK) and so forth. Look into the higher quality products. Otherwise it really doesn't make that much of a difference. (practical results bear this out). But for goodness sake, if its growling, its unhappy! Best of luck on the repairs, and I also support the use of napa gloves, it does make clean up easier. (I usually just get greasy since I also like gojo!) quietly, timothy

Pictures? Dimensions? Curiously, Timothy

whenever I had a sticking caliper it was usually due to the unit needing bled, or excessive dust/grime buildup preventing the caliper assembly from retracting the way it should. either way it was a fairly simple fix. My 77 has no power assist whatsoever, it a direct coupled rack, and I think it is in pretty good condition. I cannot foresee how difficult the steering column would be to swap out on one of these...I did a 1969 Buick Riviera and also a 1967 Cadillac, those columns were unnecessarily complicated. Both had tilt, and the cad had telescope as well...the were bulky, heavy, unruly things. I am liking that the Subaru vehicles are actually pretty simple to work on. Nothing too overly complicated, ut still enough of a challenge to keep it from being too "easy". (and boring). Best of success in your daily endeavors Mikaleda! There's nothing like going somewhere is a vehicle you know everything about! (and know you can fix if/when needed) quietly, timothy

Wow, what a lot of work... he good thing about Projects like this is that you will know every nut, bolt, and wire terminal on the thing. I look forward to the swap (for many reasons! ) Good luck with it all! observingly, timothy

Electric Sunroof?!? My, but I shudder at your sheer extravagance! Laughingly, Timothy

...slowly, the Subaru infiltrated the Pacific Northwest...

Or leave it on the curb with the keys in it, it will disappear because the fixit fairies will come and get it, but then you will freak and call the cops and they will find it in a ditch all stripped out because the fixit faeries HATE it when the cops get involved and will strip your car and leave the rusting hull somewhere for you to find instead of fixing it like they are supposed to. it helps to have a nice stereo in it, fixit fairies love to crank the tunes when fixin stuff. Then you have to get your insurance company involved, and you end up getting a new car which you WON'T leave on the curb with the keys in it because you will have learned that the fixit fairies are mean mother f@(#er$. yup creatively, timothy

My (new to me) 1977 Subaru DL 2X4 Automatic Wagon its pretty clean and straight, almost too clean and straight to do any modification to.

That is the same logic I use when purchasing electronics, (or xBox games) all the bugs are known/fixed, and the cheat codes are published online! love cheat codes...god mode for everything! (that's god with a small g, not talking about the Big Guy upstairs, He gets the Capital "G"!) quietly, timothy