lvsarge

I took a video... Here's the link:

So I found a few vacuum plugs that were litterally crumbling away. I replaced them, cleaned the dizzy, and timed the motor. It was pretty far off. 8deg BTDC is the spec, and I was well past the last mark (20deg), probably closer to 30-35deg, if I had to guess. It took some futzing with the carbuerator to get it so it wouldn't die in increments to get it down to the 8deg area. My idle is now down to around 900 rpm, which is good. Now, however, I have some pretty gnarly popping when I let go of the throttle. Idle sometimes feels a little sketchy, like it wants to die (doesn't though), but the exhaust is now my main concern. It does a rapid poppity-pop-pop-pop after every lift from throttle. Worse the higher rpm's it goes. I had to crank up the mixture just to keep idle alive, so I'm not sure if I'm too rich now under throttle?

Those look interesting. I'd buy a set just to try them.

I like the green. It's different. I would follow ru's suggestion. Mine stopped running shortly after I bought it and it ended up being a combination of fuel filter, old/corroded spark wires, and valve adjustment. Good luck.

Rear bumper has been found. Needs a little work but I think it will do. Thanks all for your help.

Timing is something I've been putting off. I don't know why. I will check that and report my findings here. Thanks for the input gentlemen.

Hey. Just wanted to pingpong around some ideas, again. My BRAT running an EA71, more often than not, will backfire when turned off. And just recently, after the car turns off, it actually cycled the engine (after it had been sitting) a few times. That scared the crap out of me when it happened. So, obviously there's unburnt fuel. My question is, is it likely in the cylinders, or worse, would it be in the exhaust and the backpressure caused the engine to cycle through the exhaust valves? Doesn't sound likely, but then again this vehicle's been really odd to me. Before, I wasn't able to get it started. This seemed to be attributed to tight valves. I adjusted the lash and she fired right up. Since then I've also slapped a new fuel filter in, and I adjusted the carberuator. It's running a dual-carb weber, and it is still idling very high. I have the idling screw backed out as far out as it will go (not touching the arm), and still my idle is close to 1300. Doing some internet searching, some people are also suggesting that this scenario might also be caused from a lean condition in the engine? Fuel doesn't ignite in the cylinder, passes to the exhaust, when car shuts off exhaust creates a vaccuum, inducing air and then red-hot exhaust components causes the ignition of fuel. So I'm confused, and wanting to see if anyone has any idea. Rich or Lean? Or Leak? Thanks in advance.

Did you change the mirrors on your brat to fender mirrors? I was considering doing it, wondering if you have any more pics?

It's saying you can't receive any new messages. But for $40, I'm willing to gamble. I was expecting near that for just shipping. Can you contact me about payment? el.sarge@gmail.com if email is easier. Thanks.

bump still looking.

Hey all. I had a question regarding switches -- particularly door switches. My dome light doesn't work at all, and I tried to check the door switches, and sure enough the springs and tabs are mangled in there on both doors. Does anyone know where I can get a door switch for a 79 brat? Thanks.

Subarus, Turbo or not are extremely stout vehicles. Turbo models do tend to be more finicky but it really just depends on how badly it's been abused it's whole life. I'd love to have that car here in the states, and wouldn't think twice about a purchase if it seemed right. As far as STI Impreza's are concerned, the GC chassis is arguably the best ever made. If you're not technically savy, however, I would think twice about it unless you have a mechanic you trust. He doesn't have any real engine affecting mods on it, so if it's a new/rebuilt block w/ a new ECU, it's probably a decent purchase.

Looking for a bumper for my 79 brat for the rear. I have the supports that bolt to the body, but will need the chrome bumper and the end caps. I live in Las Vegas and am willing to drive a fair distance, otherwise i would compensate for shipping. Please let me know what you have, if you have it! Thanks!

I'm not really sure on 80's brats. I own a 1st gen brat which didn't have any cats on it, and I also own a 2006 STi... which came with one catalytic converter. I know WRX's and other impreza models came with 2 cats, but I do not know if the 2nd Gen brats came with 2 cats or not. It's not unheard of, but it's usually pre and post turbo. Having zero cats in the line is best for performance as previously mentioned as it doesn't restrict flow, but the downside is you'll have trouble passing smog unless you can get around it, or they just flat out won't test for it (classics). And additionally, if you care about emissions and trees, you're polluting more than you would be if you had a cat. Those are the ups and downs. As for the muffler, you can get a new one welded in for less than 500-800... Maybe he's including a tune up in that price too. I'd personally buy one for around 100 bucks and weld it in, or better yet if it was a direct fit, just bolt on. If you want cats, then you're probably better off having it professionally done... but most people opt out of them if they can.

Just wanted to update this. After replacing the fuel filter, I swapped fuel pumps, cleaned the carb top to bottom, put in new spark wires/plugs, and adjusted the valves. After this the Subie fired right up. I was then able to tune the carburetor a bit and got it running pretty smooth. Thanks for the suggestion, I believe it was the valves as they were fairly tight before being adjusted. Anyway, thanks for the help all.

So much win in this thread. Thank you for sharing.

I've never looked at a legacy mechanically, much less the circuitry, but I'd start with the fuses and if no dice there, grab the multimeter and start tracing backwards. Maybe the other guys here have some better advice.

Yikes. Looks pretty bad. You really don't know how bad it is until you start taking the paint off, too, though. It can probably be 'saved', but it may not look the same as you would need to do a lot of preping on the sheet metal to get it to look similar. I guess it depends on how much time/patience you have and how good your welding skills are. For my rust work I've used Rustoleum Galvanizing primer to cover the spots. Careful with rust work, as I've found you just uncover more and more, and the best way to repair it is to repair it all, so you end up with a half sanded car, and definitely not something you want to drive in the winter time there.

Subscribed. That thing is beautiful. I love the green, too.

Did old BRAT's come with two mirrors? I thought they only came with the driver's side. Unless you paired up a driver's mirror from an MV or something...

Didn't have enough time this weekend to get under the valve covers, sorry. I spent too much time modifying the fuel pump I got to go in the stock location. I ran new plug wires, and did some compression checks on my "good" cylinders which are leaking. I really need to get in at the valves and look... But that will probably be more towards the new year now... will be travelling for the holidays. Anyway, good luck hope you find the problem.

Hey sounds like the same problem I'm experiencing with my BRAT (EA71, though). 2 and 4 were definitely off compared to 1 and 3. My cylinder 2 was running very lean and I had corroded plug wires from moisture, most likely. I also have a very leaky fuel pump. I plan to fix those this weekend but also get under the valve covers and check the lash and do a compression check. I'll let you know if I find anything interesting on my side.

A lot of this looks familiar. The guy I bought my brat from had a horrible stereo setup where he butchered the radio console and created a custom speaker box from cardboard and fiberglass. That came out on day 1. Ha. Good luck with the restoration.

^^^ That's what I did. Cost me about 3 or 4 dollars, vs the 28 bucks Subaru wanted for a genuine fusible link (yes, they can still get them, as of May)

Same one in the title. 1979 Brat.