lvsarge

I don't believe amr series comes in a kit. It's an old Aisin roots supercharger used on some (older) japan models. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think they are sold in aftermarket kits for Subarus.

No, not really. Sorry. Since my last post I welded in the holes on the driver side door, cleaned the brake reservoirs and accessible parts of the master cylinder. I need to bleed the brakes but haven't had anyone to help me. Not to mention my wife has been keeping me busy with house projects, and I will be going on vacation soon. Might not be able to get to this until August but I will post and significant progress I make.

Hey guys. Haven't updated this in a long while, sorry about that. Work has been very demanding and finding even just a little time to work on this has been challenging. I don't have any pictures to share, but I do have this: Motor is running! I had some problems with the distributor and fuel delivery. Once I got both sorted it fired right up. So the engine is running and man it sounds awesome. Maybe it just sounds that way because I haven't heard it in so long. If any of you recall the timing on this was *supposed* to be 8deg BTDC and I was running somewhere around 22deg BTDC. Way too advanced. I couldn't get it to idle properly around recommended spec, and it was misfiring, hence the engine tear down. Well, since tearing apart the motor and reassembling it, I am now running at 8deg BTDC! Super stoked! So right now the brat is on jack stands, and I need to finish welding a couple more body pieces up (just finished the doors last night), fill it with brake fluid, fill the trans, and re-install the interior, and I'm ready to rock.

Yeah those calipers suck. Especially if they're really old and have a ton of wear on them. I struggled for about 30 minutes on one just to get the damn pad retaining portion of it off because they were so stuck. I bought a refurb (I think from rock auto) to replace one and it went together so much smoother. Wish I had bought two. I will when I do pads again, most likely. Anyway, moral of the story is while the tech is ancient and pretty silly in today's standards, a new caliper isn't nearly as much of a pain as trying to work with a 30 year old one barely clinging on to life.

monk, I have some tail lights. They both have some cracks, but are still serviceable. Let me know if you are still looking. Also I have a pair of aftermarket door mirrors (not factory). they "work", but don't look that pretty. They were on my brat when I bought them. Anyway, PM me. I'll reply when I can. I've got a very busy weekend, but can probably shoot you some pictures by Sunday if you're interested.

Beautiful wagon man.

I agree with everyone in this thread. I would throw some lock nuts on it, heat the metal around the stud, throw some pb blaster on it and work it back and forth until it comes out smoothly. Steel galls in Aluminum and if you're not careful you will be helicoiling the bolt/stud.

It's hard to stomach spending 13 bucks for a tool when your breaker bar essentially does the same thing. I replaced my 13 square "innies" with an "outie" plug from Dimple. (expensive, but so worth it. Magnet is awesome) http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Dimple-Rear-Differential-Magnetic-Drain-Plug-3-4in-JNPT

I'd stake my money on plugs.

Yeah I had called him about it, was considering taking the trip up there to check it out but I couldn't rightfully do so with all the work I've been putting into mine. Nice pick up, glad it went to someone who appreciates it.

Oh and yeah, may as well replace the ball joints, rotors, pads, brake lines, etc if they're all original if the axles and bearings are getting done. I'm not sure on the axle size difference. I'll let one of the other guys here chime in I *think* they're different, but I don't know. May want to specify which transmission is in it.

Bought that one in Utah from the guy who had 3?

They had a fusible link for like 30 bucks.

Hey again guys. So I've been travelling a lot for work as of late, and we just got a new puppy (a red heeler-mix), so my free time has been just about nil. I've collaborated some pictures to share, but I'm still not on the road yet. Soon. I hope. It really depends on if the pup will let me sleep at all. We'll start things off with a new steering column trim I purchased from a member here. You can see my old one was hacked up pretty good. I did sand the old one thinking I was just going to re-use it (and therefore repaint it), but I'm going to go with the newer, longer trim Also, my buddy in town bought a first gen BRAT too, and decided he wanted some fancy seats for it. I was looking for a set of originals, and I got his. Aside from the center insert being tattered, these things are in really good shape. I will not reupholster these immediately, but it is on my list. I just want to get driving first Speaking of which, if anyone has a use for GL wagon seats (I think these are from an 84?) I've got these sitting around. They're in really good shape and what my BRAT came with. Send me a message we can work something out The previous owner had the radiator supported by one bolt. The radiator that went in the car wasn't OE, obviously, so I drilled it out and made it so I could get both bolts in there. Some of the keen observers may have seen that I pulled the door mirrors from the vehicle in previous pictures. This is mainly due to the horrible aftermarket, and HUGE mirrors the previous owner put on. They were cheap, the plastic was cracking, and worst of all, they were fricken ugly. Now, I've always loved the almost useless, but extremely sweet looking fender mirrors on old datsuns, so I went with a datsun style mirror and installed them on the BRAT. I think they turned out pretty sweet, but you all can be the judge (or judge me for it ). Took down the paint, and welded in some itty bitty pieces of metal. Just have to control the heat and go slow. All welded up with a fresh coat of primer just to protect it for now. I'll come back to this later, and will eventually be painting the whole vehicle. Someday... New mirrors! Just playing around... Not final position. I wanted to see what it looked like. Size comparison to my old, humongoid, crappy door mirrors. Ok show time, for real. Measured 4 times to make sure we were even steven on both sides I even ran a chalk line across the top to make sure it all looked square with the front. Let's DO THIS! Primer the metal on the inside... No rust No no rust. [/url] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Alright, so here's my game plan to get back on the road. I still have the interior out so this is what needs to happen: 1) Finish repairing my dashboard. I can't put anything back together until this is done. 2) Carpet is ordered. I also dry-iced the sound deadener. Once carpet gets in, lay new underlayment and install carpet. 3) Get new coolant hoses made. This is tricky as the hose place is only open til 4pm Mon-Fri. I'll have to find a way to get there during the week. 4) Add fluids. And cross fingers.

Just wanted to throw in that not ALL AAMCOs are terrible. A friend of mine runs one here in town, and maybe it's because I know him, that I don't have problems taking anything to him. Heck, the guy has even let me use his lift a handful of times. But, I totally understand and have heard some people are unhappy with their shops. I suppose every shop is a little different as are the people that run them. Sucks you had a bad experience. Hope you can find a solution that works.

Mine was dieseling too after leaning out the mixture to get idle smoothed out. I was also misfiring in a cylinder due to an oil seal leak. I've rebuilt the motor since then but have yet to fire it up. I'd try seafoam as Jeszek suggested. It's a cheap and easy fix compared to pulling the motor and the following chaos that ensues.

Subaru of Las Vegas is definitely the most in touch dealership I've worked/dealt with as far as community is concerned. They sponsor a lot of events locally in town and many of their employees are big fans of Subaru. I've seen the 360 shaggin wagon they've got, it's a pretty good restore! Their parts guy always laughs at me though if I have him check for any remaining brat parts for me, though :-/

I got the package too. I've been traveling a lot so haven't had time to dig in.

If your exhaust is looking like swiss cheese it's probably best to replace the whole thing. It's really nothing for a muffler shop to bend in pipes and weld a muffler and some hangers on the length. The Subaru rumble comes from the headers, mostly. When they are not equal length on each head the pulses of exhaust gasses that pass down the exhaust are not travelling at the same velocity when they exit which causes that gurgle or rumble that most people think is a Subaru signature sound. Unfortunately UEL headers are not the best for performance as it causes turbulence. Collisions in the exhaust result in fluctuations in back pressure. When/if you were to go Equal Length your performance will pick up but it will sound more like "a honda". I, personally, think EL headers sound racier, but it's a BRAT, and it's never going fast without a swap, so I wouldn't really bother. As for diameter I would stick with the stock size. I think it's 1 1/2 inch? 2 inch maybe? No reason to increase diameter, you're not really outputting gobs of power. Hope that helps.

I'm not wanting to glass the whole dash. Just filling in the cracks. I would like to retain the padding feel to the dash. I'm following a procedure documented by someone else and will report back on how it goes. Basically it's: Fill in the cracks Sand down high spots Use padded dash filler Re-texture Prime Paint Seal I've got about 3 hours into just filling cracks right now. Since some of my cracks go over the factory speaker holes I will need to re-drill parts of it as well, and I am going to touch up and re-finish some of the rotted plastic trim vents on the dash as well.

Same as the driver's side... New ball joint, tie rod end, rotor, pads, wheel bearings. But also with a new axle and caliper on this side. I've got my fiberglass-plastic rods and I'm working on the dash now. I've also welded in the holes for the mirrors on my door. I've ordered new mirrors and we'll see how it all turns out. More to come as I have the time.

Hey all. Like many of you I plan on converting the fusible link to an inline fuse. Quick question, what's the link rated for amperage wise? I have fuses rated at 40A, but I'm not entirely sure that's what the vehicle was rated for from the factory.

Well done

Haven't updated this thread in weeks... again... Well, that's because I'm waiting. Perpetually waiting. If waiting to work on your car were an olympic sport.... well, you guys know the rest. Here's what I'm waiting on currently: Passenger side front axle Flex fiber Plastic welding rod Passenger side caliper The axle got "lost" and I had another one sent to me. So it's been about 3.5 weeks just for that. I rebuilt the knuckle with new bearings. Once I get the axle and caliper I can finish up and put it all on the ground again. The welding rod is to finish repairing my dashboard. I will be able to put everything back together with the exception of carpet and seats... trying to find originals or something that I like better than what I have (84 GL's). Anyway, some pictures with captions for fun. A snap shot as I was repainting my badge. Mucky and gross. As I disassembled the passenger side front end I noticed that I had a fancy break line leak somewhere along the way. Previous owner maybe, I hadn't noticed anything on that side but there's a lot of bubbled paint and grime around the brake line areas. Testing the seals. It was hard to tell if they were cracked or not under all that grime. I yanked em anyway since I had new ones. More yuck And here's why I'm getting a new axle. The inside was very contaminated. I chucked it before I even took a picture. As it sits currently. So I'm also repairing my dash as I previously said. It was really cracked. I took a die grinder with a grinding tip on it and beveled out all of the cracks so I can fill and resurface when I get that rod I'm waiting on. I'll let you all know how THAT goes.. Oh yeah, hey. That steering wheel that I was refinishing? My first attempt, I'd give it an 8/10. Looks great from about 2 feet out, but if you were to closely inspect you'd see some imperfections. Good enough for now. I'll get picky later when I can drive. And that's where I'm at. More to come (hopefully sooner than later....)

I can't guarantee they'll have it, but I would pull out some calipers, get measurements and try whiteline or superpro. They had some bushings there I couldn't find elsewhere that fit my 1st gen brat.