lvsarge

Wiring diagram: http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/JHoop/2008-04-30_113917_wiring_brat.pdf

Did the OP find out his jet sizes? I'm curious as I am going to rejet mine and I was running similar to him before I tore apart my motor.

Well, I found this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129949-wiper-post-problem/ And I'm going to try the socket method listed there, else just continuing to be careful. I'll post back my results. Thanks.

Hey all. I've been prepping my engine bay for paint (79 brat), and I'm attempting to remove the wiper motor but I can't seem to get it off the arm. I'll admit I'm being rather delicate with it, as I don't want to break the plastic in there and then not be able to find a replacement, but can someone kind of walk me through how you get it off the mechanical arm under the leaf guard area? I appreciate any assistance.

I don't know what the first picture is. Doesn't look factory. Looks like a voltage regulator but your stock one is going to be over by the battery and has a circular connector. As for the motor, I'd wager it's an EA71. It should be stamped on the block, iirc either in the front or near the heads. May have to take the manifold off to see it.

Wow that's awesome. Sweet find, guys.

How fricking cool. How did you find it? Great pickup!

The wire is simply meant to act as a fuse. I plan to replace mine with a pair of circuit breakers.

I don't own a legacy, but on my 06 impreza a lion's share of the slop was remedied when i changed the front and rear shifter linkage bushings to poly under the car -- you wouldn't be able to see them from the top, I do not think.

Titanium drill bits above 1/4" are pretty sturdy. Anything smaller tends to bend, and I am fearful of snapping with too much pressure. Almost tempted myself to buy the cobalt steel set but decided against it for titanium. Also bought a chisel and punch set, I used the small chisel to shear off rivets and it seems to be a bit dull after about 20 rivets, but I'm hopeful they will hold up.

So glad to see one of these being so well looked after. That car is gorgeous.

My Airtex pump for my 79 goes in the engine bay. There's a little mount between the charcoal canister and the pitch mount where it sits. Fuel line comes from the passenger corner, to the pump mounted on that little ledge, then straight to the carby. The stock wiring harness should have a connector for it in that general area, then grounds to chassis. Hope it helps.

Oooohhh my goodness that's so awesome.

me likey.

Stop taking my money, RA!

I'd say around $5k is a fair price for it. You're taking a gamble on a turbo car over 100k miles. Chances are things will wear out pretty fast on you if there are still stock components, and the WRX 5spd gearbox is notorious for failure, especially if the car was creeping over 325-350 whp at some point in it's life. But, the owner may have maintained it well, and just because it was modified doesn't mean he was dropping the clutch at 6000 rpm's from a dig, or going 10/10 through every gear. Used cars are a gamble. Especially ones fun to drive, like the WRX.

50mpg on the highway at clutch speeds with no throttle... ....downhill

600hp EZ30??

I've been stripping paint in the engine bay. A very tiring process here in Las Vegas when it's over 102 every day. So, nothing very exciting to post but I did find this fun picture I thought I might share. Posing the Brat on some SSR GT2's I got for my STI.

Oh and congrats on the new 'Ru!

See. Couple hundred bucks.

Point taken. And I agree with you. Perhaps I spoke too quick. In the end it's all in the eye of the beholder and what it's worth to them. To me, buying something completely questionable where he's not able to test electrical or mechanical components before doing so is not something I would invest a lot of money into. Just too many variables. But if he feels good about it, more power to him. I would love to have as many of these on the road as we can save.

I wouldn't pay more than a few hundred for it. You're going off the guy's word that it just died while driving and have no idea what's wrong with it. Could just be a nasty fuel filter that never got changed. Could be a complete loss of compression in all the cylinders (unlikely, but hey...) -- A car that does not fire up loses a ton of value as far as I'm concerned. If he wants more, he should get it running. Who knows how much you'll have to pay in parts and labor to get it up again.

Thanks for the praise guys. The paint is VHT Wrinkle Red with the reccomended VHT primer for it. All cured in the oven. You have to lay it on real thick to get that wrinkle effect. The manifold turned out very textured, but the valve covers are more smooth.

Trans time.. Dropped it covered in about an inch of dirt and gear oil. Rear crossmember was disgusting. I have a bad leak coming from the gear selector. I found an old thread on this forum which referenced a seal, so I bought one from Subaru and this time I cheated.. My friend has a Trans shop so I took it to him for a full re-seal and clean up. It came out beautiful.