lvsarge

Dunno. My impreza didn't come with any of that fancy stuff. I did see that headphone aux jacks started coming in the 07 models, but I have no idea beyond that. Shouldn't be too hard though to get a head unit with an auxilary/usb port. Good luck.

So much googling and wiki'ing later has brought me to the conclusion that they're both emission control devices, but as described above, the EGR will also lower combustion temps and the sacrifice of some efficiency. AIS helps deliver air to the the exhaust stream to burn off unburnt fuel. Also sounds like it works in tandem with a catalytic converter to bring it up to operating temperature faster. Which of course, I don't have.

^^^ Makes sense. Yours is already snapped anyway... ---- Let me ask this then, We don't need the recirc tube OR the AIS for these motors? The AIS I thought might help with positive crankcase ventilation, but is that all handled by the breathers on the valve covers then? Any reason to have AIS or the exhaust recirc? I'm curious because my motor is out and less assembly plus a better running motor sounds like a good idea to me. Can someone explain? Thanks.

I'm sorry you had to find that, but on the bright side, you know what the problem is.. And that is rather amazing to see. Never seen that on these motors before. Good luck with sourcing some replacements.

Yeah that's the exhaust gas recirc tube. I have no idea if you can even find those outside of stripping it off of another motor. Best of luck tracking one down man, Between that and the air injection spider tubing on top I took my time getting those off. They look like they're specialty subaru pieces that would be pretty hard to track down --- use a flare nut wrench on the air injection piece!

Yeah, on one head I had tiny cracks, I asked about them and the machinist said they appeared to be casting marks and not to be concerned. The other head didn't have those marks though. As for what I had done, I had the heads tanked, cleaned up, resurfaced, valves grinded, and new oil seals pressed in, cost about $250.

Eh. I've yet to see great gas mileage from my ea71. It seems milage goes south post-55mph in a 4 speed. Though I did improve fuel economy by doing some of the maintenance work below: 1) replacing the fuel filter 2) replacing the fuel pump 3) replacing spark plugs 4) cleaning the carb 5) adjusting the valve lash 6) adjusting the timing & fuel mix of the carb in tandem.

Sweet wagon, Julianne. And nice pictures on your site. You picked a pretty cool car to start working on for yourself -- the 1st gen GL subarus are easy to work on, it's just hard to find parts for it. *Some* parts. Yours looks pretty nice, so hopefully you won't need too many of the rare-er parts. Good luck!

Good luck, bud. I am going to pick up my heads from the machine shop tonight! Can't wait!

Haha stupid California. Good luck man.

Question for you seasoned vets. I took my heads to a machine shop and they were tanked, and machined. I want to clean the surface of the engine side, but its quite gunky from the head gasket. I've got most of the material off, but it's not by any means perfect. How do you guys get the (aluminum) head gasket surfaces cleaned up properly? My cousin is suggesting scotch brite, and I know that will get little fuzz material everywhere. Is there any good way of doing it at home? And if I cave and have them just tank the block, is it okay to do it with all the internals still in place? It won't damage anything will it? Will I need to re-lube certain parts before I put it back together? This is an EA71. Thanks.

I just browsed your flickr for the heck of it. Hole heck that valve beat up your piston.

I took the heads down to the machine shop to have them bathed and then I'll probably have them surfaced. Meanwhile I'm putting some elbow grease into the block, and I will likely paint it once the heads come back.

so I think I found the problem with the cylinder... The oil seal on the back was cracked... and sticking a pair of pliers in it I was able to see that it was actually split half way around

Here's the one I downloaded: http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/JHoop/2008-04-30_113917_wiring_brat.pdf

Nope, sorry... I lost it. If I find it I'll give you a buzz, but I found it on the internet.

Though, I wouldn't necessarily call it "high quality"

I had one for my 1979 somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

I only have a picture of the pistons in the cylinder right now... I'll post here. I haven't removed them yet. Obviously cyl 2 is on the left.

The 86 turbo brat, that's Jay. He's been around a long time. They meet every Friday, but I won't be out with my brat in a bit, nor this Friday in particular as I have a dinner I have to attend. In any case, I've got the motor on a stand, and the heads off. I plan to do some cleaning and painting with the motor out, so it'll be a bit before I take the brat out.. I have an 06 sti I drive also. Anyway, as for this motor, there was quite a bit of carbon build up on the heads and valves. The #2 cyl looked worse, and more wet than #4... I pulled the intake valve on #2 only and checked the back of it, which had some considerable build up... But there was shiny metal around the back of the valve and in the seat.. Does it look normal-ish? I ask because this is my first engine tear down, and I'm not 100% confident on what to look for.

Nice. Yeah, I know another brat guy (2nd gen) but most everyone else is 98 and newer. It's kind of funny going to meets because half the kids don't even know what my truck is.

Hey bertmann, you're kreepndeth on flat4, yeah? I should come pick your brain sometime. Another question, not directly related to the cylinder (which is #2, not #3... I was thinking firing order, not cylinder layout): I have the block pulled, and I've started the tear down. On top of the block is a hard tubing over each exhaust valve on both heads, which feeds back to my carb. I assume this is the factory PCV, book I was reading called it an air induction something-or-another. My valve covers also had a piece of tubing coming from the 1-3 cylinders to the same spot as the hard tubing via tee, and on the 2/4 cylinders valve cover a piece of tubing was coming in directly to a port on the intake manifold. Is that normal, and it is it necessary? I might be able to get a picture if needed.. I understand the ideal thing for emissions is to recirc the blowby back into the intake stream to be burned off, as is the point of a PCV system. But, why would I need the hard tubing on the cylinder heads and the valve covers recircing? Can I just throw breathers on the valve covers?

Borrowing a friend's cherry picker tomorrow... Should have the motor out and taken apart in fairly short order.

Update: I couldn't seem to time this thing right. It would be too lean or just barely rich enough to hold idle and act horrible on throttle response or be entirely too rich, unless timing was advanced far enough to compensate. So I decided to pull the plugs (which are maybe 200 miles old), and cyl 3 is fouled bad. Other plugs were showing a fairly lean to normal burn, but cyl 3 was completely black and the insulator was a very dark brown. This is telling me oil is getting into the cyl one way or the other.. I cranked the engine with a flashlight in cyl 3 and sure enough the piston is completely covered in muck. So I'm thinking it's misfiring in cyl 3 (even though compression checked out ok...) ... I'm going to just pull the motor and look at everything under a microscope, especially on that side of the motor. Bad thing is I just put new sealant on the valve cover gaskets and those things are ON. I was considering just seafoaming the motor and see how it goes, but I think this will be more thorough and tell me a bit about the motor in the process. Plus I've got some oil leaking from the oil pump and other miscellaneous odds and ends to clean up/fix while the engine is out. Thanks to those who have given me some input. I'll post back again when I know more.

I meant twin barrel. My thoughts and my typing don't always coincide. Sorry.