johnd911

sorry for the confusion again, I adjusted the top and bottom stop screws to lower the idle. It seems that there is either a cap plate on top of the screw in the throttle body or no screw at all. I adjusted the top stop screw (with the white paint) and then adjusted the bottom stop screw (with the nut around it) so that at idle bolt screws were up against the moving linkage at idle. Minor turns were needed. I once had a 90 legacy that had the O-ring screw in the throttle body, I'm assuming it is an air screw. I only had to lower idle by approx. 300 rpm when warm. After the adjustment, the cold idle and fast idle(for ac and defrost) still work fine.

thanks Josh, taht idle screw is what I used to bring the idle down from 1100 to 800. Dealer wants 149 for an o2 sensor, autozone wants 89. Is one better than the other? can it be off and not throw a code? I'll try to link to the other board later tonite. Since I drive up to 1000 miles a week, and have my car memorized, I can tell by the time I'm halfway through my gas gauge how the mileage is going. Then when I fill up and do the math I'mpretty close. This darn thing goes through gas like a v8.

will try the o2 test, where can I find the values? also is there a way I can post this whole thread on the older board.

I thought of that, but the tranny was beginning to slip 2nd to 3rd with the 372,000 motor while I was getting the much better gas mileage with that engine. It's a few hundred rpm slip from 2 to 3 under heavy acceleration, not in normal city driving.

pulled the front passenger cord to the injector, got cyl#1 error code, so my injectors have the correct leads. Will drop car off to tranny place next week. Could it be a bad o2 sensor? I got o2 sensor error codes from when I was switching injector leads, but not since the leads & injectors match. absolutely no error codes now Even reset the ecu. I wonder if I should put my 372k throttle body on ( it looks old and alot "blacker" inside than the 65k one. Totally stumped.... PCV valve is fine, swapped it with my 93 engines. I'm assuming the cam shaft and crank sensors are the same, no error codes. Is the intake manifold identical between a 93 and 91? coil pack swapped also. Anyway the 2 lines right next to the line from the fuel filter can be switched? I swear I labelled them correctly. This is a doozy of a problem.

the car is going to be gone for 3 or 4 days, the tranny shop )still under rebuild warranty) has to get rid of the slipping problem. In the meantime I'll be scratching my head... thanks for all the help and advice so far.

will try, when I switched injectors to the 93 ones, I only transferred the straight rail section, not the curved lines that snake their way around the engine, I don't think it matters. My 3rd tankful and still pathetic mileage.

the valve looks the same, it has these numbers on it 22650 AA032 A33-000-R10 OY21C I reset the ecu by following the fuse instructions and the trannt has a 12,000 warranty and I'm 10,000 into it, I'll drop it off Tues. It was rebuilt in Aug. 04. I drive alot, this is my work & personnal car, so I keep it in perfect shape. And check the mileage every fill up, this engine runs srtong but eats gas like crazy. I was thinking if the passenger side fuel injector wires were switched that would have maybe explained where the gas is going, but I think they are on the correct injectors. Really strong motor. Argh!!!

I've got 372,000 on my 93 Legacy awd wagon, but last week had to put a 65,000 mile motor to replace mine (head gasket kaboom). Does this count

Josh, I dion't know whether it was an at or mt, the engine was stored in the junk yards storage rack area and all they know is that it is 90-94 compatible according to them. What I have is a 90-91 engine with 93 rail & injectors, and harness in a 93 automatic legacy wagon. It drives as good as my original engine, BUT THE DARN MILEAGE IS PATHETIC........15mpg city vs. 23 with my all 93 car. Highway is 21mpg now vs. upwards of 30 in the all 93 car. Absolutely no difference in seat of the pants feel from my 93 motor, great cold idle , idle goes up with ac and defrost, absolutely perfect except for the mileage. No flat spots, doesn't feel sluggish or rich running at all. What, other than the injectors do you think I should pull off my 93 motor? the sensors and emission stuff looks identical. Throttle body? idle valve ?, I drive up to 1000 miles a week so this mileage problem will hit me in the pocket book big time. I will reset the ecu tonite. Any idea if those 90-91injectors may help? I can't find any info, other than from you, as to what to try next.

Yeah, I thought you meant the throttle body. Gas mileage dropped from 28 highway to 22. Tranny was rebulit 9k ago. Now there is a slip in the 2nd. to 3rd. shift under power. Backing off the gas right about shift time results in no tachometer "slip". I figure my computer thinks it's my old engine, old harness, injectors, rail. Can't figure it out. This donor engine does only have 65k on it, I saw the title that was transferred to the junk yard. With my 93 injectors and closed eyes, the seat of the pants opinion is that it feels identical to my original motor. What differences may there be? valves? pistons, I doubt anything significant. What is the difference in the injectors, they don't even look close. Unless the computer has to "learn" this engine, but it shouldn't think it's different anyway.

sorry Josh if I'm confused, it's been a tough week, lost a week's pay finding, getting, installing this engine, having to pull it again because of the rea main seal problem, then after all that was done, swapping the injectors etc. all in my driveway, alone , with a floor jack, and an improvised hoist and a bad back. Did you ever try to get that tranny tube and clip in alone? I'm shot. Now I have a funny tranny slip and terrible gas mileage. Argh......then today my hot water heater floods my basement because of a crack, what's next? your web pages info on error codes etc. have proven priceless in helping me before all this happened.

I thought you are refering to the cast aluminum air flap in between the intakes. That is silver cast aluminum. the thing with the wire in the air flow is plastic (black) is that what you mean? On y 911 and bmw's the maf's are cast aluminum.Sorry if I'm referring to the wrong thing. with the 93 injectors and rails my gas mileage is worse than my all 93 93.

I lowered the idle bt turning the throttle stop screw, the thing would not idle below 1100 warm. The maf on my 93 is silver,sorry about calling it a 90-92, I stand corrected. I do have worse fuel mileage than I had when everything was 93. I know I'm not supposed to adj. the stop screws on the throttle linkage, but there was no way of lowering the idle speed, the cables weren't tight, no air leaks etc. seems fine now, the cold idle works as does the ac switch. I never ends, now my tranny is slipping on the 2 to 3 upshift. ARGH.....

What I have is a 93 with a 90-92 donor motor. I'm using my 93 harness, fuel rails and injectors. Had to lower the idle (1100 when warm in neutral) by turning the stop screws on the MAF. I'm happy I got a 65k motor. I have to drive it for a day or two to see how everything runs now. I have the following passenger side injector plug wires, front: Brown/ yel with red stripe rear: yel/red & blue/white. I'm assuming the brown set is cyl #1 since the harness to that injector has a white band over the black harness. appreciate all the help. Now it seems like the revs go up a few under on some 2nd to 3rd upshifts on the automatic. Argh

I swapped the injectors and the rails. It idled at 1100 so I turned a screw or 2 on the maf and dropped it down to 800. Like I said, I was lucky to get a very low mileage engine (inside the valve covers it was sparkling clean compared to my 372k motor) So I hope the injector swap will help. Does anyone know why the injectors are so drastically different looking? hopefully my gas mileage will get back to what it was. What other changes are there from a 90-92 to a 93?

my #1 injector plug is brown & yel + red stripe #3 is yey + red stripe & blue +white stripe can I just put the 93 injector in place of the 90-92 injector or switch just the rails (not the twisting tubing going to the fuel line). The darn junkyard told me it's a 93 motor, it really is a 90-92. But with 65,000 (on the title, I forgot to look at the year.....) I can't complain. I just hope swapping injectors is all I need to do.

All I swapped was the harness, Should I just pull each injector out and put my 93 injector in it's place? or do the rail?

so then it doesn't matter if the passenger side front and back are switched?

This is my 3rd thread . First I had a rear main seal problem, then a confused injector (still unresolved) issue, now that the car is driveable the second to 3rd. shift (part throttle) seems to make the revs jump a couple of hundred rpm. Full throttle (power light on) shifts seem ok. Fluid is fresh and level is normal. Tranny was rebuilt 14k ago, with a 12k warranty..... my luck.. do any of those limited slip additives I see at auto parts stores help here ? thanks again. Yes, If I could afford a new one I would get one, but the 2.2's still seem better than the 2.5's especially for me, I drive 1000 miles a week.

yeah, the donor had a 3 plug and my 93 had a 2 plug. Since the number of connections was the same on the engine, what was the 3rd. plug for. donor had 65k documented miles. switched the harness. Only problem is the off idle response seems kinda rougher, maybe some injector cleaner? still can't discern a difference in seat of the pants when switching passenger side injector connectors. The injectors are tilted at an angle wheras on my 93 the were at 90 degrees to the head. I'm hoping a 90-91 engine with my 93 harness will not give me any headaches. First day seems that the gas mileage is worse though, maybe from the injector plugs not being on the right injector. I did notice that one injector plug wire has a white band on the wire- can'tfind any info on whether that should be the forward or rear passenger one. Any things, other than the harness that I should swap with my 372,000 mile motor? thanks again to all.

what's weird is that I can't discern any difference in how the car drives. Each spark plug is doing it's thing, but there is a 50% chance that the passenger side fulel injectors are squirting out of sequence. Since it's a fourstroke, the fuel is getting in there but out of sequence.

another problem in my saga of replacing my 372,000 mile 93 legacy engine with a donor junk yard unit (65,000mi. verified). The donor was a 2.2, but the wiring harness was different than my motors. Harness switching time. So I labelled all the plugs with duct tape labels and used a permanent sharpie to write where each injector plug went. My gas laden hand happened to have smeared the passenger sides injector ID's. SO I had no idea which passenger side injector plug went front and which went rear. I've tried driving the car but can't tell any driveabilty difference, but I don't want to be dumping gas in at the wrong stroke and be thinning my oil out. HOW do I rectify this and make sure I've got them straightened out. I figured I would be able to feel a driving difference but nada.

Got it out, thanks for everyone's advice. I got a brown subaru seal from the dealer (vs. 23 bucks for the napa one I used earlier) It was a real tight fitting seal that did not want to go in, I put it in just where the bevel ended. It came with a clear grease between the lips, I added a bit more and put it in. NOW another Boo-boo (it never ends). see my other post about this boo-boo.

thanks for the tip, I'm hoping all will go well. That darn Chilton manual is a piece of junk, few pictures, many drawings. If I had a picture to look at I would have known the problem before putting it all toghether. I'm assuming the seal (being to deep) didn't seal and the oil just blew by. Is there a better online service manual available? Is the haynes manual better than Chiltons.