matt167

If the gaskets are not blown at the moment, I would just throw new gaskets in. Don't worry too much. May blow again but done properly will still last a while.. If your into this trying to make money, I can't imagine making much. Swapping pistons around won't be seen as a selling point and price won't reflect the effort.

If your going to just sell it after, slap a set of head gaskets in it ( do machine heads for flatness ). Buy those from Subaru. Then buy a Timing belt kit from Mitsoboshi or OEM. If the idlers don't feel good replace them. If the car got oil in the coolant and you have a milkshake in the water pump, replace with AISIN/ OEM. That should be good enough to get it to the next T belt change without further issue.

OBD-1 vs OBD-2 has nothing to do with it. The transmission differences came in 1999. Transmissions to 1998 are compatible between OBD-1 and OBD-2. They are " Phase 1" transmissions, you cannot use "Phase 2" transmissions which started in 1999. Phase 2 trans can be identified by the external filter on the drivers side of the trans

Shaken is the thorough inspection done in Japan. It's also anything in the cab of the truck while driving down a rough road

I'll update this. Truck I was going to get local turned out to be a 1996. Not legal to be in the USA. fudged paperwork or something was not right.. I ended up buying a truck from who I think is HIS supplier, ran the vin number to check it's age before purchase. came back as a 1992. Took a chance. $4,800 plus tax and delivery. It's not as nice but it's very much good enough for me. More of a dirtyish interior than anything. Needs cleaned up.. I did spring for a 5spd though, so it will run right to 100 KPH without an issue. Just spent an hr at a DMV yesterday getting it registered. Now just DOT tires, possibly have to add a couple front parking lights and finally NYS inspection and then it's home free. The Shaken is still good on it, and the mileage that it was done was not that long ago so it should be in pretty good shape. I gotta go through it all yet but it does drive nice minus some squeaks

H6 brakes. Your calipers will work, you will need the H6 caliper bracket but it all bolts up.

low oil level light started in the Legacy chassis around 2010 IIRC. Comes on at 1 qt down. From experience, the MPG goes down 2-3 MPG with the replacement short block ( in a 2012 Impreza ). From 37 mpg to about 34-35 MPG. Not enough to write home about, but burning through a quart of $8 oil in 900 miles, unacceptable no matter how you look. This isn't 1955 where there is an oil slick on the road from the draft tubes and filling the oil with the gas was deemed acceptable.

Just an FYI. Napa can get NTN stuff. It's not what most of them would carry or come up first in their list, but they can get it. At least where I live. A Napa down by the largest dealer in my area, that is ALL they carry for Subaru is basically OEM.. NTN bearings, tensioners ect.. Asin water pumps. They don't carry anything else other than that, and they won't even order it for you.. Last time I bought a part there it was a water pump because I needed one and they had it. Told me due to come backs on the cheaper stuff breaking, they don't deal with anything else. Obviously brake pads and stuff they will sell the cheaper stuff, even CV axles I'm sure but I'm not sure New OEM are even available outside of Subaru

Just an FYI. Napa can get NTN stuff. It's not what most of them would carry or come up first in their list, but they can get it. At least where I live. A Napa down by the largest dealer in my area, that is ALL they carry for Subaru is basically OEM.. NTN bearings, tensioners ect.. Asin water pumps. They don't carry anything else other than that, and they won't even order it for you.. Last time I bought a part there it was a water pump because I needed one and they had it. Told me due to come backs on the cheaper stuff breaking, they don't deal with anything else. Obviously brake pads and stuff they will sell the cheaper stuff, even CV axles I'm sure but I'm not sure New OEM are even available outside of Subaru

little Too much might not hurt but actually makes the system less efficient . Way to much runs the chance of liquid refrigerant getting to the compressor and locking it up Really depends on how much too much

This one was a decent premium due to its condition at $5,500. I could have rolled the dice on an eBay vehicle for $1k less or rolled the dice on an import, having to deal with going to the port, filing paperwork ECT.. For a $2k savings. He wanted $4,900 for the others but they were trash in comparison.. 45 mpg with a 15 gal tank. the sad thing is, the vehicle probably cost $2-500 at the auction in Japan. The thing looks brand new. Engine is even perfect looking... If it ever does start leaking. Its gonna stink up the cab though.

Grabbing the Autozam.. Have been told by people in the USA and Japan to stay away from the Mitsu. The Autozam has 12k and change KM on it and looks the part, drives even better. Little under 8,000 miles converted. It was a dock truck used for Shrimp. Has the fiberglass shrimp liner with it. May bedline it and keep it around for gravel but may sell as they are apparently valuable. 25 year old truck, but it's pretty much brand new. No rust at all

Test driving the1992 Autozam later today. The Mitsu 5spd is a pile.

His importer does not deal with Sambar's.. I checked. A Sambar is why I started looking but they are so expensive and hard to find in comparison. My Subaru Forester will have a hitch when is all said and done, but 40+ MPG for my commute, I'm driving the truck

I have had my 1996 F-150 on the road for a couple weeks and it has the typical old truck problems as well as chug gasoline ( 14 MPG ) so were going to part ways. Local dealer has these Kei trucks which fall under the 25 year exemption and he has the paperwork in the right order tho he sells as offroad only so he isn't subject to any of the legwork. Every one of the trucks he has sold is on the road and he will give me contact to provide testimony... I'm pretty much set on getting one.. Probably a 1991 Mitsubishi Minicab he has with power steering and a 5spd. They have the most comfortable seats and the 5spd is nice for the highway. I don't care about the PS but it's the only 5spd he has.. He has a 1992 Autozam ( Mazda brand but Suzuki Carry rebranded ) that is cleaner with lower miles, but the 4spd is a deal breaker almost.. I might take it for a spin just to see though.

65* at 132 ft/lbs would be the min torque required without over torquing. It's so close to not enough though, that if it did not rotate 65* from the point it got tight, that it is not torqued enough and is binding a bit... When it is torqued at 147/150, it's probably going to be near that 75*. Were talking 20 ft/lbs more

Way back when, it was suggested to me to torque to 150 and it stuck.. Its 20ft lbs and torquing to 150 ft lbs also eliminates that 65* stuff.

Agree. I set my torque wrench at 150 ft/lbs and it's not an issue. If you have a 5spd, you can just stick it in 5th gear with the E brake locked. If it's an auto. you'll need some kind of holder like the Subaru tool. A 2x4 with holes drilled in it for bolts, or long 3/8" extensions will work

'00-'04 Legacy looks close but it looks to have 2 hose sections on the pressure line with a short steel section between them, and then I'm still not sure the hose will reach around the DOHC EJ205.. I think I'm going to see if they will use the JDM upper, and can make the lower part in house so I don't have to buy anything new just to get cut up.. I don't want anything that looks like it belongs on a plow truck visable, but the rack connections I don't care, they can be

Not without a FULL STI swap.. If you really want alloyt LCA's, then you CAN use GC ( 1992-2001 Impreza ) STI control arms that you can find through a JDM importer. They will work for you. Prepare to drop a lot of coin on them though

I want to utilize the JDM top part at the very least since it is a banjo connection and has the fitting molded in.

On for manual. Off for auto

That's what I want to do. Have a great hydraulic shop local. I just don't want to use the rusty rack ends from my USDM lines. The JDM lines are still in place and in good condition, just cut off behind the hose near where the rack would be. So I need to have the 2 merged. USDM to JDM... Since the EJ205 is DOHC, the SOHC lines are too short.. As far as the pumps themselves, they are identical but the reservoirs have different part numbers and shapes from Turbocharged to N/A.. USDM WRX pumps are different entirely and will not work with the JDM intake manifold

My 2001 Forester that I'm doing a JDM EJ205 swap on. I have discovered that the EDM LHD EJ205 hoses that I needed are now NLA. So I'm going to have to take what's left of the cut JDM hoses, and a set of USDM hoses and have them merged at a hydraulic shop with new hose.. Are the hose ends the same for pressure and return? Gates makes a pressure hose that's $15 but a new set of OEM USDM lines is just under $300. I don't want to spend too much on something that is just going to get cut up.

Yup. You can do that. Needs to be 1999 MAF intake though. Can be an ej222 or ej253 intake. Leave the egr unplugged, and cap it.