matt167

The 1998 engine is considered a phase 1 engine, 1999 ej22 is a phase 2. They are not electrically compatible and intakes wont swap.. You have a multitude of issues, from cam signals to possible ignition and idle air issues and others

Unfortunately you should have stopped when you saw differences in the wiring. A 1999 ej22 is not compatible with 1998 and earlier electronics. There are ways to make it work but it is easier to get the right stuff. 1999-2004 ej251 or ej253 would be direct swap. Or just use the heads from one on either block

Nope, I knew that you don't need to hone cylinders when doing a re ring, and I also know that a ball hone can mess up a perfectly good bore with the wrong operator, hence why I didn't mention it.. I understand the concept behind knurling for that reason, but I still wouldn't do it to my car. I'd rather replace the slugs at that point. I wasn't suggesting getting rid of the car.. Rather opening up the engine beyond head gaskets for a 1-2k premium ' just because ', simply just do the head gaskets. Sure it might rattle while cold or use a bit of oil, but the car would still make 200+ thousand miles... Where I am, probably 75% of the cars are Subaru and many of those are pre 2005 and those types of repairs would never sell even if they were offered.. JMHO. Different markets probably

This thread got off track IMO. OP came in asking about head gaskets and other general maintenance, and got suggested basically an engine rebuild.. A car like this in good condition is worth what, $5-6k in the right market? I know that's what it would bring here in the snow belt, at a Subaru specialized dealer that imports clean cars from southern states. IF the engine really did need some work ( and I doubt it does, at least to live it's useful life ), I wouldn't recommend Knurling the pistons. That was and has always been considered something just to get an old engine going again, back when cars lasted 50-75k miles or less before the engine was pooched.. It has been out of practice for ~30 years. Shops that still offer the service are normally knurling pistons that are otherwise NLA. vintage Snowmobiles and other vintage engines ect.. A shop generally charges $10-20 for the service per piston. Nor would I recommend spending 50% of the value of a vehicle on major engine repair.That's where the JDM EJ20 comes in. Sure you have to wind them up more, but their max RPM is still 6,250 just like USDM. They are better with a 5spd but you can have a reliable vehicle again at 50% the cost. All of them offer at least a 3 month warranty on engines if installed at a shop and failure would likely come before that.. If you have the money, burn it. But not many do. Spending $3k just because is foolish, unless your thinking of taking a vehicle to 300k miles or better.

I have dealt with jdm new York. A lot depends on where you are located.

My opinion is, before spending thousands on a rebuild using knurled pistons. Simply stick in a jdm ej20. Have shop install so you get full warranty. $800-1000 engines come with good warranties. If your feeling lucky, you can spend as little as $500 if you negotiate an importer. $600 engines are easy to find but they are less willing to stand behind at that price

No. All you find in the yard are non functional. The vlsd is prone to malfunction and wouldn't work like you think

They don't have a clue. A stuck pcv or over filled oil could do same thing. That's an " I can't be bothered to work on that " diagnosis

My 2001 forester blew a line out of the connection block under the seat. I replaced both lines because they were both shot. An inline flaring tool and nicopp line are the best imo.

2012 Impreza is 5spd. The legacy had a 6 speed for a while

Yes. Keep the Orig airbag. HVAC if the switch is the same functionally

Subaru was not a popular company in that time period. Few took the dive. Subaru stepped up and started building cars they could sell. They might not be up to the same level of quality as before, but compared to competition, they are at least on par.

I'm late to the party, but do not use gator grips for brake line. Gator grips are not designed for high pressure at all and are not legal for use. You could be held criminally negligent if something bad were to happen. That said, those flaring tools are garbage. The cal van tools inline flaring tools are great, and you only need the 3/16" die and block kit for subie brakes. About $25. Pair that with nicopp brake line which is easy to cut and flare, its the quickest brake lines you will run

If it fits the mount and hoses, it will work. Subaru racks are all basically identical

Forester did not appear until 1997 in Japan and 1998 elsewhere. What are you looking at? No for auto. Somewhere possible if 5spd

Pretty sure the answer is no and yes at the same time. They are very close but the body lines are different, hood latch might not be the same, but it should bolt to the hinges and you could probably make it latch.. If it's a matter of you have a messed up hood, and can't find the right hood, then by all means try it

Got this new problem. Good Friend of mine found a tree with the drivers door of her car. Small tree, slid of her steep driveway. She always comes to me for help.. Door is damaged and window broke but that seems to be it.. Will a wagon fit a sedan? Iknow the window will be different. She has glass coverage so I'm having her get a new window anyway. That will get it back on the road. Its a 2004 wrx sedan. Has cold weather pack too

2009 Lego turbo might be can bus. If it is, your swap is impossible. You would need a non can bus wiring harness, ecu and intake. On top of that. Blown turbos often end up with blown engines due to metal in oil from turbo. Spend $800 on an ej20g. Work through the minor differences and sell your Lego stuff.. Or buy a wrx.

Once you get down to one code. You get your scanner that can check emissions readieness. Reset your codes and go for a drive. My experience is EVAP is the last test to ready. Emissions will pass as 'ready' with 1 test not ready. You just gotta get to an inspection station right then.. So its the easiest to deal with, without dealing with it. But also, a garage with a smoke machine could find the leak in a few mins.

Interference makes hp and fuel economy.. Just change timing belt on time.

It should be a wire harness issue but im not sure. The stb STI was only available in a manual with the type M in 2001. All before that were all autos

It won't, but it would let the weaker trans last longer. Clutch/ trans would only suffer if it was hammered Plenty of Impreza turbo swaps use " RS " transmissions and hold up with weaker clutches, like they are special, but we all know they are Outback/ Forester/ RS/ GT 4.11 transmissions. I guess the lower gear probably helps keep a load off of the transmission gears by applying the torque to the street faster. My advice would be to go with another turbo 5spd. You can use any turbo 5spd you want ( USDM or JDM ) that you can find as long as you match the rear axle ratio.

Yes but No. You need a matching rear differential for the '93's 3.90 front diff.. The transmission will work with an N/A clutch and slave but is not ideal.

The Y pipe is bolted to the Cat and the engine. I've never seen one rust out but they are common in junkyards. A dual port Y pipe up to about 2004 will fit. I don't know the exact year they made them go around the oil filter but any before that will work.. You may need a new Cat if the flange on the one you have is bad.

I would bet the cluster motor uses a pwm to control the odo speed. If that failed, cluster would go ludicrous speed or nothing at all. Likely end up burnt out.