matt167

As I thought 185/70 vs 195/70 will fit. Book did not go back to 1993 so I had to just calc the sizes.. Their diamaters are 24.2 vs 24.7, so only 1/2" difference in total.. You can go to a 215/60/14 if you have room for the width. It's identical in diamater to a 195/70.. The section width is 8.5" so you need to measure 4.25" from the center to the outside of your current tire and check for possible rubbing.. It's about 1" wider than stock

Something is amiss. They are the same

That will work fine. I've done the same.

Took delivery of the engine today. Aside from a crap Pallet that importer put it on, and the shipping company breaking the pallet in half in my driveway by the road ( 75' or so to the garage ) before saying sorry and driving off.. I slid it off on one of my old hotrod frame jigs, and then drug it most of the way up the hill with the Forester ( front tow hooks, in reverse ). Then finished it off with the lawn tractor into the garage.... I think the condition of the 'extra' parts sealed the deal for the fact.. It's STAYING BOOSTED.. Clean uncut down pipe that I hope I can use. Intercooler is nice and straight. couplings look great. Pretty much everything looks mint.. I gotta tear everything off to check condition fully, but pretty pleased at this point.. The trans is dated 2001 and the plug wires are too, so it might need the other triggers. I'll get the one on order to be sure

If your looking at Walmart. See if wm.com has any 195/70/14 Douglas Xtra Trac II left in stock. They still might. If they do, they are actually the same tire as the Kelly Exp Plus. Goodyear Viva 3= Goodyear Eagle RS-A with a little bit different tread. A " Priority Tire " made for Walmart.. Assurance Authority= Overpriced, just go for Viva One of my regular Goodyear delivery drivers knows what goes on in the factory since he drives for them AND pays attn. Most of the guys can barely throw a tire straight. I could double check the plus sizing book at work tomorrow but I'm pretty sure your right and a 195/70 will fit just fine. Your adding a marginal amount of height at 10mm

If you want an all season with a bit of a winter bite. See if you can grab a set of Kelly Explorer Plus tires in a 195/70/14. They have been discontinued for about a year now but were some of the last tires built on goodyears older machines and had older style non symmetrical agressive tread patterns. Should still be some out there. Everything out there now has a performance type tread due to the car markets changing... Pretty soon snow tires will be a requirement again because good all weather tread patterns are not going to exist much longer. Bigger wheels, higher speed ratings are eliminating those tires. Now the very best tire, is the Nokian WRG3. I don't sell them, but another local shop does. They are crazy expensive though. I'm not sure how he sells them but he does. Pretty much a $30-50 premium per tire, but Nokian is the best in the world and nobody can argue that

Yup I did the same and went with a heated replacement when my factory heated cracked on my 2001 Foz "S". Heated IMO is worth saving your wiper transmission. I had a local company do my window. They do all my glass work when I need it

I install tires for a living. In the real world The Altimax RT-43 is a garbage tire. FWIW. We sell them, but they don't last. Actually the tires we get with the most defects/ tread warranty issues are Generals in general. The Altimax Artic is a decent snow tire, and the Grabber AT/2 is a good A/T. The AT/2 can also be found in sizes small enough for Subaru, for the time being.

The 20k is single turbo. The twin turbo engines were actually low performance based engine. Namely found in Legacys. It does not matter. The TT setup will not fit LHD cars

It's going in my 2001 Forester S. The engine is on it's last legs and it's just time to either rebuild or replace, and I'd rather rebuild because the rest of the car is still decent.. Most of the V5/V6 EJ205's came out of Foresters and GF8's.. So it's only kinda logical to put it back in one.. If I ever get enough $$ again, I'll get a JDM SF5 STI front end, and then be the envy of the neighberhood.. The 'cool' thing with the older pre 2001 EJ205's ( production began May 1998 FWIW ) is that the cam/ crank signals used are the same as what is used on 1999-2002 USDM EJ25's ( 6/7)... So essentially, the engine can be made to 'run' without the turbo fairly easy. I verified that by checking the crank gear p/n which also lists for a 2001 Forester 2.5L SOHC N/A through opposed forces... In the event I get some kind of 'hybrid' which has the newer WRX style triggers. I verified the correct driver intake gear is still available from Partsouq for less than $100. It was only a $100 bet really. The Importers WILL NOT help you in any way beyond tell you the block and heads will swap with 2002-2005 USDM WRX... I think people get cought up in the "WRX Swap " and overlook other options. I've found a couple instances of people doing this but not to any great amount of info. Basically it will take adapting the USDM throttle body and MAP sensor into the intake, extending a couple wires on my USDM engine harness since DOHC harnesses are longer in some cases. Many of the sensors share part numbers, even the knock sensors are the same. so my ECU should be ok with the EJ205 or close enough it'll adapt. As far as tuning. I'm probably going to go for a Greddy Emanage Ultimate with a Boomslang harness for a fully PNP setup. Will need tuning, but even a WRX swap would need tuned since JDM EJ205's are 9:1 as built... Figure, $350 for a WRX harness w/ ECU and then $700 to Iwire or $400 for an Emanage and $289 for Boomslang harness. They are within $100 of eachother given variables but only one is truely PNP and does not require dash removal The last version of the EJ20G is also listed sometimes as an EJ205 although most importers list it as a '97/'98 EJ20G.. Opposed Forces lists their engine codes as EJ205. It's somewhat confusing but easy to follow going by the where used dates as to what's what... I should also note that since Opposed Forces only lists EDM cars, there are some small part differences to their EJ205's but it's namely smaller turbo's and such. The rest is pretty much the same.. Japan-parts can verify that kind of thing but the site is a mess

It's going in my 2001 Forester S. The engine is on it's last legs and it's just time to either rebuild or replace, and I'd rather rebuild because the rest of the car is still decent.. Most of the V5/V6 EJ205's came out of Foresters and GF8's.. So it's only kinda logical to put it back in one.. If I ever get enough $$ again, I'll get a JDM SF5 STI front end, and then be the envy of the neighberhood.. The 'cool' thing with the older pre 2001 EJ205's ( production began May 1998 FWIW ) is that the cam/ crank signals used are the same as what is used on 1999-2002 USDM EJ25's ( 6/7)... So essentially, the engine can be made to 'run' without the turbo fairly easy. I verified that by checking the crank gear p/n which also lists for a 2001 Forester 2.5L SOHC N/A through opposed forces... In the event I get some kind of 'hybrid' which has the newer WRX style triggers. I verified the correct driver intake gear is still available from Partsouq for less than $100. It was only a $100 bet really. The Importers WILL NOT help you in any way beyond tell you the block and heads will swap with 2002-2005 USDM WRX... I think people get cought up in the "WRX Swap " and overlook other options. I've found a couple instances of people doing this but not to any great amount of info. Basically it will take adapting the USDM throttle body and MAP sensor into the intake, extending a couple wires on my USDM engine harness since DOHC harnesses are longer in some cases. Many of the sensors share part numbers, even the knock sensors are the same. so my ECU should be ok with the EJ205 or close enough it'll adapt. As far as tuning. I'm probably going to go for a Greddy Emanage Ultimate with a Boomslang harness for a fully PNP setup. Will need tuning, but even a WRX swap would need tuned since JDM EJ205's are 9:1 as built... Figure, $350 for a WRX harness w/ ECU and then $700 to Iwire or $400 for an Emanage and $289 for Boomslang harness. They are within $100 of eachother given variables but only one is truely PNP and does not require dash removal The last version of the EJ20G is also listed sometimes as an EJ205 although most importers list it as a '97/'98 EJ20G.. Opposed Forces lists their engine codes as EJ205. It's somewhat confusing but easy to follow going by the where used dates as to what's what... I should also note that since Opposed Forces only lists EDM cars, there are some small part differences to their EJ205's but it's namely smaller turbo's and such. The

Forester got bigger for 2009 IIRC. It's on a legacy type chassis after that.. The closest is Cross Trek but they started in 2013

Most likely low fuel pressure.. I'm assuming gas you mean LPG

Yup under the car. just take a look at where the block meets the cylinder heads. If it's dry under both, it is really a waste to do gaskets. It would be around the $2,500 mark... a 2010 should not have the issue. Timing set, you just pull the radiator and then everything is there for you. Being an auto, the hardest part is getting the balancer off but you can buy or make the Subaru holder tool.

If the key is damaged, it will turn over but not start.. They wired the ignition/ injection systems thru a logic controller part of the alarm for the chip key.. The starting circuit ( spin starter over ) is still hard wired... Weak/ damaged keys do this all the time.

generally yes, head gaskets are replaced. They only destroy the engine if you overheat it, and then continue to cook it by driving with blown gaskets.. IF Subaru head gaskets are leaking ( Not as common on cars after 2008 ) then it is mostly an external weep. You can keep it going as long as you keep the radiator full of coolant, or the recomendation is keep it going until the timing set is due for replacement ( every 105k miles, or 105 months ). And that's only if you have the external leak.. Subaru Coolant conditioner should also be used

I've got my V5/V6 EJ205 coming complete ( turbo, everything on it ) with a 4.44 Turbo trans. I'm not sure if I want the hassle of needing to get the turbo operational to maintain HP. With Opposed Forces, I crossed back and verified the rods for the EJ201/EJ202 were the same as used in the EJ205. And thus the right length for the EJ201/202 flat top pistons. Then I went over to Partsouq.com and verified I can get them from them. A or B size they have available.. They are only $46 each listed as a set. Are they sold seperatly from Subaru usually? $184 is more in line with what I would expect, but Partsouq seems CHEAP on everything ( They do USA spec stuff too )... Since an engine might need both A and B, I thought they were sold each. Because if I get a set of All A's and I need a B, then I would actually order 2 sets Should I just go hi comp? my math tells me it won't be quite the 11:1 screamer the EJ204 is but not too bad. Or is it better just to run it Turbo.. An RRFPR, fuel pump, MAP voltage clamp and a wideband will get me running 7-8 PSI safely. But perhaps it's less a hassle then getting EJ201 pistons/ hardware and fitting them in.

Subaru CVT is like driving a rubber band powered car. Tried and hate them for that reason

Well. I just placed an order. Almost caved and just bought another 230k mile 2000 Outback with EJ252/ 5spd for $800. It ran silent but I still would have to get it home, pull engine/ trans and then deal with parting out the rest and then expect to re ring/ bearing along with new HG's due to high miles. Mint interior and the engine is clean and silent ( I would refresh but it's clean enough it might be a replacement ). I can give contact info to anyone who wants it. A small dealer is trying to sell it and it's not really worth putting on the road. it is rough where it shouldn't be tho that's what he's selling it for.. It's perfect for parts and he was gonna let me rid him of it for $800 not worrying about title. In the end it was the cheapest way to re engine my car, but not what I wanted really ANYWAY.. I have on order, a JDM Non AVCS EJ205, from a pre 2001 which should have the 6/7 trigger system as noted. along with a JDM 4.44 Turbo 5spd.. If the engine turns out to be a later revision by a slim chance ( Opposed Forces show a 3 month 'gap' where it theoretically could have the 31-1-1 triggers still using the V5/V6 waste spark ignition EJ205 ).. I have located the correct left side int cam gear for the older 6/7 from a european supplier who will ship the item here in 3-7 days, for about $20 more than a WRX gear from the local dealer.. All in all that did worry me, but not after verifying stock and the part is easier to get than I thought and cheaper too.. I think it's that HUGE parts house that Wheeler Dealers have used in the past.

Yea that's copper glitter stop leak.

Rear muffler yes, with some adjustment. Everything else not really gonna fit

As far as I know, they are a phase II block but I think that the pistons are different from the P2 SOHC engines, so the engine should still see a static compression bump.. The ONLY way the 25D heads would work with the '99 P2 electronics is the intake adapters '99 Foz is Map/MAF EJ253 or it could be a MAP EJ251 if it was built late enough.

Pretty sure the ej205 head gaskets will work in the SOHC 2.0l. Either way the 2.0l is the engine u use when you don't really have hills There is an EJ204 that could be worth it. 11:1, DOHC 190hp screamer. And they are cheap because nobody knows about them. You may have to change crank and cam gears but,usdm wrx stuff will work

Forester S and Xs 5spd are 4.11 with the vlsd

should be a direct swap.. Use the cam pulley and crank gear off the original engine, and the intake manifold They might be different. Once that is done really any 1999-2004 SOHC cam engine will swap