matt167

Everyone knows that I want to/ will when I have parts put a turbocharger on my Forester.. Reason is, they were available elsewhere but not till the later XT in the US. I happen to like the SF5/ more utilitarian appeal than the '03+ models.. I doubt I'll find a 5spd in better shape than mine within my budget if I were to buy another. My Forester is pretty clean for pushing 230k miles on NY Salt roads. Only rust that's a real issue is rear passanger 1/4" which isn't rusted through yet but it's close and a bit of the wheel well lip is gone. I currently sanded it, primed it with rustoleum rusty metal primer, then grey primer and rustoleum 7592 pro white ( really close match. can tell up close but, it's close enough ) I have heard that Subaru 1/4 rust is not repairable. question is why? If this were any other car, I'd cut it out, make a patch and weld it in. But I'm not about to go cutting on a car that's " not repairable " because I've never seen inside the panel to see what's up.. Anyone make a patch that wasn't bondo and fiberglass? Also, are there blankouts available for the buttons beside the steering wheel? Turbo goes where the cruise is and I don't use cruise anyway, so I'd like to remove the cruise stalk and cruise button and install a blank.

Rotors I got were centric rotors. At an old pro value auto parts store.

The bottom sliders were stuck on both with the tops being free on both. I lubed them up with caliper grease and they seem ok now, but agree they will probably stick again.. Is the caliper bracket part of the caliper you get with a rebuilt caliper on a Subaru?

I just had to put front brakes and rotors on my '01 Forester. The brakes were getting really bad even though there was still a little pad left. They were not sliding properly and the rotors shook violently.. As best I can tell the rotors were not out of round, they were not scored, but had been flaking the top surface on the inside mostly. I've never seen that before.. What makes them do that? as best as I can tell, the brake job was not really that old, just wasn't done properly and the pads wore uneven.

Use the intake and wiring from your original engine.. What car are you working on. WRX STI? Forester XT, Legacy GT? Baja Turbo? What car did the '05 Turbo come out of?

I drive an 01 Forester 5spd, my mom just bought a 2016 Crosstrek 5spd. Replacing her 2012 impreza. Aside from small differences, they are functionally identical. No there's not 4 ash trays in the new model, the cargo area was reduced In the crosstrek as the rear seats were pushed back but otherwise,functionality identical. Steering seems adaquate and comparable to me. The only thing I find is, the 2.0l is anemic in the crosstrek. It is adequate in the Impreza.. The old EJ251 with 4.11 ratio is much more responsive

He means the tensioner bracket. It bolts to the block, easily replacable.. If you got a spare ej22e, you can use an old style tensioner and bracket if you want.

The OB Sport hood was a carry over from other countries as a Turbo hood. The blockoff plates were a US spec thing being we did not get Turbo Impreza/ WRX till 2002 You can leave them open without issue

The EJ20G is a very common swap at this point. The engines are cheap, but if you don't get the wiring harness and ECU with them, then your SOL or have to run a standalone ECU.. Being a long block without any of the stuff you need as per description, it simply won't work. If you want a turbo. the Phase I MAF cars can be 'fooled' quite easy and a turbo ready EJ22D is an easy build since it's just an EJ22E block ( 1990-1996 or 1997/8 for a little more compression ) with EJ25D heads. puts the compression in the 8:1-8.5:1 range depending on block used. You won't find the info on this site but on NASIOC and RS25 ect. it's readily available

phase II pistons I think will work in a phase I block, BUT, Phase I pistons pop up proud of the cylinders, so I think if you measured pin height between the 2, you would find they might come up short ( below deck ), and throw the quench in the toilet along with any kind of decent compression.. And when I mean Phase II, I mean '99-'01 EJ222/ SOHC EJ251/3

Lube and tire shop

The Fram XG is the "Ultra Synthetic" filter.. Then there is the TG, HM and regular PH filters... I deal with Fram filters every single day, so I know a thing or 2 about Frams QC.. As far as none above $9, the XG10600 used on many newer gasoline powered VW/ Audi products that don't take the CH9911 cartridge, well. It's $28 in store, $22 here online http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fram-Ultra-Synthetic-Oil-Filter-XG10600/35743162. The PH10600 is $15 IIRC. Theres some inbetween also An oil addative is snake oil. Lucas might be the most credible since it can quiet noisy lifters. But it has more credibility in a gear case like the demonstrator at the autoparts store or hardware store I personally run Purolator classic filters ( now red ) and Valvoline Max Life 5w30 in my 230k mile EJ251. I also put a bottle of gumout stop leak in it since it slows the oil consumption by .5qt/1k miles

Looks like airbags cost about $800 so if only one bag blown, you have that. upper tie bar, hood headlights, bumper, radiator and other stuff not visible in the blurry pic.. It might be possible to find a T boned or rear ended 2012+ Impreza and use those parts since the parts are basically the same. Pretty sure it's a 2013/2014?

Walmart will always be almost certinly the cheapest retail outlet since they do market research for pricing and at least match price if you actually find it cheaper, within 25 miles or something like that.. Fram XG/ Ultra synthetic filters at WM range from $9-30 depending on model, and that can be between $3-10 difference from the basic PH filter depending on the filter Comparing an online sale to a retail sale isn't a fair comparison because online will almost always be cheaper. That is why retailers won't price match online.. For that matter, I can buy Wix online for $4-5 vs the $6-9 at Napa Now as to Fram being better than they were.. Not really. Their QC is still horrible.. I don't know how many filters I've pulled out of boxes missing gaskets, missing drainback valves, wrong thread ( likely wrong label ).. Had a PH16 split the crimp on the endcap with a loud bang, and then oil everywhere.. Have had their service grade filters rattle inside.. Just overall not good

Only the V7 EJ207 had forged pistons. The V8 had hypers, and V5/V6 had cast coated pistons like EJ205.. The big advantage to the 207 is the support webbing for lots of boost and the cylinder heads.

The thing about Wix is they do not brand a cheap filter, but they DO make them... But a real Wix is a $2 premium over a cheap fram ' on average '. Same as Purolator pure One or even the "Boss" filter You have to go up to the XG filters in fram to get the quality of the Wix filter, and then you are spending about a $2 premium over the Wix

Pistons are fit to the bore exactly when finished. Some machine shops will do it without but its a guess at that point.. A good shop wont touch a block without pistons in hand.. Forged need to be run a little looser but still need to have pistons... The tolerances on pistons are not perfect, and when were talking about tolerances that are nearly exact. It matters.

I use max life in my 01 fozzy. 6 quarts total in 3k miles on a 230k engine. Any other brand uses at least 1/2 qt more.

Ford Model A tank was behind the dashboard.. and they about exploded on a front end collision.. before you even think about size constraints, consider gasoline is about 6 pounds per gallon, so 15 gallon is 90 pounds.. Your car is gonna feel that extra weight

I put about 1.5-2 quarts of oil in my Forester between oil changes. I run 5W30 max life for 3k mile intervals. usually closer to 2,900 miles.. I always use a bottle of gumout stop leak too which cuts consumption by about .5 quarts vs if I don't... I typically buy 1 5qt jug and 1qt bottle during end of duration, so about 6 quarts for 3k miles.. It runs really good except lately it gets a single deceleration backfire I can hear as a slight tick in the exhaust... and lately, when it's cold I get LOTS of dry blue smoke. when it's first started it won't smoke. runs a few mins then it will start coming, and then by the time I back out of drive and leave I can see a blue haze behind me... When I come to the first stop sign and look behind me, it's like a mosquito fogger of very blue smoke.. Once the temp gauge gets some movement, it absolutely does not smoke.. It has always had a little cold running smoke, and has always gotten 25 MPG almost exactly The car has 229k miles currently so I know eventually it's gonna need some engine attention, but I don't want to do anything with the current engine. If I have turbo funds by end of summer ( IF WRX actually gets new engine/ turbo and nets me free parts ) it will be turbo.. If not, it'll just get a lower mile replacement engine.... Could the smoke be PCV related? I have a spare PCV from a 1999 EJ25D. is that the same?

2000-2006 should be same. A new window will be about $200 buck installed. Salvaging one nearly pointless unless u got to have OEM. The black borders are broader than aftermarket.

Pretty sure 2010-2016 front ends are interchangeable. They have slight differences in appearance

dbl post

Hmm.. I wonder if Subaru gave them rights to 'base' their manual on FSM for only $30. My guess is probably NOT.. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/1999-2002/

Haynes manuals don't make good toilet paper. They are ok if nothing else available but, factory manuals can be found free online. 2011 has aj EJ so at 105k you will want a timing belt, but no head gasket issues in the later EJs