matt167

USDM intake and sensors. driver side cam pulley. It will run

If the body is as clean as it looks, theres a dealer 30 miles from me that will buy that, fix it and stick a $4,500k sticker on it, and sell it in a week or so... He had a 1998 Impreza outback I wanted. 98k miles, 5spd.. $4,900 and it sold QUICK.. He sells a lot of Subaru's, importing them from PA and NJ, to his dealership here in NY... I think in any snow/ salt state theres a big demand for clean Subaru's with a small supply

Don't forget, Subaru open deck aluminum block engines are a world apart from a closed deck cast iron block as far as hotspots and cooling, and then with EFI and electronic timing adjust. The ej25 has been 10:1 since about 1999-2000... I thought the 6cyls were tuned for 89

My mom has owned a 2012 2.0i since 5 miles on the clock. I think 4 sets of tires, 2 were OEM yokos, 2 were/are khumos which last much longer.. 2 sets of brakes, and a warranty short block at 110k miles. Its a basic car, but its a good car

My mom was in that boat in 2012. Looking at used. 2009-2010s. 40sk miles $16-17k plus tax. A new Impreza like she really wanted was $20k. So she bought a 4 year newer car fresh off the truck with 5 miles on it

Your fine as long as the crank was on the mark. Nothing in the ej engine can be damaged rotating backwards on its own. It can jump time turned backwards with the belt on but that's it

Well, you got an interference 2.2. If the crank isn't on the mark, you can bend valves rotating the cams, but you shouldn't need to touch them

Crank it over til the 3 lines line up per the manual. Not the arrows.. Put it together, rotate it 3 times, verify it... Release pin on tensioner, and rotate 2 more times.. Call it done Don't worry about finding TDC, the belt is not installed at TDC on a Subaru

The engine clearly isn't a heat shield. Its definitely pistons slapping. Wouldn't supprise me if its got a broken piston skirt. The exhaust is tight and dead quiet.. The trans is probably ok, but it might not be. Its making some noise in 3rd winding it up, and sometimes it grinds just a little going into 4th... Ralisticly both need replaced, but I can use a cheap trans if I go turbo, or a cheap engine if I go DR

The boat weighs 1,800 lbs calculated on the trailer, but tongue weight for trailer towing should only be 10% of the total weight in bumper pull situations, so realistically it will have 180-200 lbs on the rear of the car. Almost 500 lbs of the boats weight is the 65hp Mercury outboard on the stern. The boat itself dry weighted at the factory is like 800 lbs, and the trailer isn't heavy either.

I've thought about air assist springs, but really. The tongue would only have 200 pounds on it. The car is rated for 900 lbs of cargo inc passangers IIRC, so it should be ok with just a fresh set of struts all around. I've yet to determin if it has or does not have the hill assist/ hill holder.. Friend who owns the WRX says it should have it but I don't know. I know her WRX has it but I never even give it a thought until she commented on how badly I start on a hill compared to her.. but with hill assist, she has a deffinite advantage.. I don't roll back, but the engine lugs a little and the pistons rattle cause the engine is getting worn.

So, I'm kinda thinking.. I really want to do something to my Forester. It is a practical vehicle, in decent shape but does need some mechaincal attention. 4th gear is getting a little rough and the engine is starting to get a part throttle rattle all the time. Still got some life in it, but either way it's gonna need a new engine/ trans.. neither of which is expensive to just swap with good used but.... USDM never got any of the really cool stuff.. Forester Turbo existed before USDM got the XT, and USDM has never gotten the dual range in any car since the EA's. I know why, and it's a stupid reason but whatever.. I was planning on doing an NA-T conversion, to put down gobs of hp, and that would be really fun but in the practical end, it has no practical application to the Forester being that it's too top heavy to autoX, and really too utilitarian to utilize the turbo's potential, beyond passing someone on the highway. Then I was thinking, and watching the videos on the low range... Now, I do have a vintage 15' Custom Craft Sea Ray ( pretty rare boat, company defunct in '64, mines a '63 ) that was my grandfathers that I'm restoring... Forester should be rated to tow it. be like 1,800 lbs loaded.. Low range would be very useful when launching, especially the old Mastercraft trailer that sits the boat pretty high ( has to be pretty deep to launch it ).. I know JDM transmissions can be found with the dual range trans, but I've never seen the bezels and shifters available.. One of my pet peeves is that if something is there, it has to work like stock and look it too.. I've found the shifters, bezels and stuff on Ebay Aus but I don't know about getting stuff here except for a specific freight companies, and one friend on another forum who ships cars too and from the US for his own dealings... I know that several of those Dual range transmissions are on Ebay.au now, if only I had a way to import, and that's always the hangup. it's expensive from down under. Should I try to go D/R or just stick with Turbo?

The oil control rings have no real upgrade. Once the engines out of its efficiency range, its gonna use oil

You can. It will end up low compression but will run... It sounds more like your fix is in the form of a new tap and set of exhaust studs

Sounds like its not releasing fully

Jdm ej202 203 I think is the commonly available NA 2.0l that works with '01-'04.. You probably need a usdm intake and wiring. They are dual port tho

Fuel pump on the WRX, at least 2002+ USDM is runn off a controller which I think is a PWM.. If that was bad it would not power/ no start

Other way to do this would be the 4.44 JDM WRX trans but then use the rear diff from an A/T USDM Forester which is 4.44, It would be a little cheaper and guarenteed bolt in.. But some JDM WRX trans are VSLD front and Suretrac rear

Some tire shops will refuse service if they know your car has it and/ or is required by law... US Govt mandate after 2008.. It's generally not illegal to have a non functional TPMS, but a tire shop would be held responsible to ensure that a TPMS is functioning after they have performed service on that wheel.. Generally speaking, they could note on the work order a TPMS is faulty, but they cannot service a wheel that does not have TPMS that should, because ultimatly any liability would point to them, because they are goverment mandated

I pull 3k RPM's at like 65mph now with the 4.11's, so at a .33:1 gearing, it shouldn't be more than a 200 RPM difference, give or take. Seems like 4k at 60 would be a slipping clutch.. I'll have to find charts for the gearing tho, and I'll calculate it to see. I don't drive highways much at all. Main road cruising for me at 55-60 MPH. I knew about the clutch differences and the clutch/ flywheel was on the list anyway. I'll just have to add the correct slave cylinder and possibly new starter to the mix As for the HP, I said closer to 300hp It will be an EJ22E with rebuilt EJ251 heads. I'll probably hone and re ring the engine to make it fresh. probably split the case and do new bearings too. just make it fresh, but a low mile engine I can see an odo on I won't worry about.. Comp ratio should be 8.9:1 Probably a new or rebuilt TD04, possibly something bigger.. Stock 2006 WRX intercooler... Between 8-12 PSI at least. The engine should have wiggle room for more Fuel will be Walboro 255 LPH pump Microsquirt will control a second set of injectors, undetermined size just yet, but they will be in the ports above the stock injectors. Diyautotune sells the weld in injector bungs to make it work. Wideband setup going to Microsquirt to make tuning easier The secondary injectors will only come on when the engine reaches 0 VAC or a slight positive pressure.. MAP will be voltage clamped too, so the stock ECU won't know anything and no codes will trip Timing will be controlled by an MSD DIS-2 ( discontinued but still obtainable ), trigger the timing retard function with a pressure switch... I could run the ignition system off the Microsquirt also, but the stock ECU may not like it, and theres no reason not to use stock timing control with a retard under boost. Hood will be modified to use a WRX or possibly Outback Sport/ RS scoop. whatever I find that looks good. I have a MIG welder and those parts won't be hard to find, even if I had to cut a hood section All in all, it should idle like stock, drive like stock out of boost, but once boost kicks in.. run like no other Forester in this area.. I've always read 7-10hp per PSI of boost, but the reports of just running 6 PSI and RRFPR's give a 50hp boost on the dyno.. Realistically, the EJ22E/251 hybrid will probably start around 130hp and not the stock 165hp. So it may end up at only being 200hp or so, going by the 7hp per PSI... However, with the 8.9:1 compression, it's not as limited so I could likely make a little more boosting to 15 PSI or so Good to know about the dog gears. Kinda makes sense to do it that way.. I've never opened a Subaru manual trans but have others, and it's not a big deal to me

dogtooth gears? I havn't heard of them. Not opposed to doing it tho, if it will work.. Probably grab a lower mile trans from a wrecker just in case... I wonder tho, if that .33:1 is a noticible improvement.. A bit of reading shows that 4.44:1 WRX transmission could be many transmissions, depending on RA/ non R/A, STI V6,V7. that they all had different gear sets and that some are shorter than others.. I'm only interested in the cheaper ones, that list as replacement for '02-'07 USDM WRX Also, does my Forester have hill holder/ Hill assist? I only ask because I was told it may have it.. It's a 2001 S model.

I've decided to start collecting parts for my NA-T conversion for my 2001 Forester.. Long story short, calcs in my head is that it will cost less than $1k extra if that in fueling and timing components to go from 5 PSI to about 12 PSI without any issues and I won't have to re buy anything to get more like I would with the simple setup.. So it will make closer to the 300hp mark... Which might break the 220+k MI N/A 5spd. It just might JDM WRX transmissions with the rear differential included, go for about $900 shipped and I can get one here any day of the week for that, and are 4.44:1 ratio. Should give me a little bit of a punch over stock 4.11:1, but I deffinetly do not want to go to a USDM trans which would cost about the same anyway, and the 3.54 ratio would be 'ho hum' to me. When going to the Turbo trans, is there any other gotcha's than the clutch setup that is different? will my CV's fit? how about drive shaft?. I know the rear diff should fit as long as it's an R160.. I don't know how to tell the R160/R180 apart since I don't know of any USDM models that are R180 except the STI? With a connection to someone in Aus who has stuff shipped to and from the US quite a bit, I could probably get a dual range trans and all the bits like center console ect... for just a little more than that. probably couple grand at most. But not sure that an N/A trans designed to take 2.0L HP will live long.

In another thread, its a 99 legacy. That's an Awd. Fwd does not exist past 1996 iirc

The Impreza takes a 195 65 15 on the base model. Upgrade is 225 45 17 I think.. Impreza and cross trek are close to the same so my guess is they will work

A front end only allignment is a waste, 2 tires on a Subaru is stupid if they don't match front/ rear, many shops won't do it due to liability.. If you have one good tire, that is 9+ 32nds, find a retailer that sells that brand/ model and buy 3 of them... If that tire is older than 2011, discard it anyway... The reason you don't mismatch front to rear, or side to side is because different tires have different overall diamater variations.. If you have a good brand A tire with 11/32" and a new brand B tire with 12/32".. Brand A might be 23.75" diamater. and Brand B might be 23.73".. These will change the diamaters indipendently of the tread depth, and why Subaru says don't do it