matt167

Who knows what you have now. If you have a dual overhead cam, you have a mess. If its single overhead cam, that's not so bad... The 1998 engine can run on the 2000 electronics with some rigging, but not correctly.. The 98 would be dual overhead cam... Your best bet at this point will be the engine for a car exactly like yours. You will deffinetly need the intake manifold and wiring harness to go with it, then hope your cars wiring was not hacked

I had a local shop that charged a low rate, but his stipulation was that he kept the clock running during coffee and lunch breaks.. he would pretty much take any time required, and double it.. He didn't last very long and now I think he mows lawns.

No.. 2010 and newer ( at least ) Legacy transmissions are CVT. It would bolt in but you would not have the electronics to control it

He should have a tune when changing the exhaust beyond a Cat- back.. And on a WRX, the first pipe he should change is the up pipe if he wants to put any extra boost thru it since the up pipe has a Cat in it too, and that's pre turbo

Ej22e is not a problem engine. Engine swap could be the quickest way out but, its a crap shoot

Well, a EJ222 is 135hp, EJ251 was 165hp. The heads are nearly identical except 222 is single port.. Running a "D" block would drop the compression a slight bit. probably around 9.5:1 since they need the thick gasket to clear the valves.. It still should logically run right around a 30hp increse.

I bet it's got a "D" block... still tho, that's ok. it's approx a 30hp upgrade with no real downside since phase II engines are just as reliable as one another past 2000

I bet it's got a "D" block... still tho, that's ok. it's approx a 30hp upgrade with no real downside since phase II engines are just as reliable as one another past 2000

you have an issue with the passanger cylinder head. I doubt it's the camshaft. It's gotta be leaking compression. 60 PSI is barely enough compression to make a cylinder fire enough to support itself..

Slight mod and you can use the bar for an Impreza/ WRX and that opens up a lot of options. I don't think anyone currently makes anything for the 1990-1999 Legacy chassis. 2000+ is different in the rear, I'm not sure if it will work on the older car but I'd guess not without mod

Yup. Once its warm its dead quiet, except a rumble in the bottom end that I noticed after doing the timing belt.. Its had the piston slap since I've had it. That's not what worries me.. I know its got at least 50k miles in the engine but to me if the clutch went, it would not be worth putting it back in.

Manual wont have torque bind till warm. Just drive in tight circles and you'll feel it if its there. But its not that common in manuals

dbl post

that is ultimatly my cheapest option to go and be back up and running

2001 Forester is Phase II where as the EJ22 heads would be phase I, so that's out. Phase II 2.2L heads are single port versions of the exact same head I have.. EZ30 I have thought about, but every bit of wiring has to be changed, and then rigged/ tricked because the EZ30 never came with a 5spd in the US. The caveat to all this is, for NY we cannot have a CEL on for inspection purposes, so that means using the original ECU or a WRX/ USDM OEM Turbo swap.... I'm just assuming here, that when we are done with the WRX, I should have most of everything needed as spare take off parts, minus the turbo if that's really bad. But TD04's are not expensive to buy new... I know things like the oil and coolant lines, and the special coolant reserviore are things I'd need to make/ buy but, it might actually be worth it depending on how much don't need to buy ( for this car ).. Especially if I could get the engine and engine management to handle 10 PSI, because that would be a worthy boost.. I know I would need the STI block to go to 10 PSI... I'm just thinking at this point but I am a hotrodder

So, I'm only thinking, but. I will probably have access to a worn but 'working' TD04 Turbo and factory up and down pipes, since the WRX that I maintain has upgrades in the cards at this point, at the very least were uprgading the full exhaust so I'll have the stock stuff.. I could also have stock 2004 EJ205 injectors depending if we upgrade them.. Also would have stock intercooler available as we will get a new intercooler for WRX. Also will have a factory turbo air filter box and piping since it's getting that in aftermkt also., Now, if I run the EJ25D block with EJ25D gaskets, than I will have about 9.3-9.5:1 since compression goes down with that swap just a little.. I should be able to use a Vortech FMU, stock injectors and an MSD DIS- 2 ( discontinued but stilll available ) and run wastegate pressure ( 8 PSI? on stock WRX turbo ), or enough to get 200hp reliably without really using engine management since the boost is conservitive.. I know that the MSD is not needed but, since I don't want it to blow up I figure I'll run a pressure switch to the 2 step and have it pull timing under boost.. Shouldn't cost more than $500 extra I don't think since the used take off parts will the majority of the expense.. A Greddy Emanage blue would probably work too and they are less than a MSD DIS-2.. Then I could run a brand new STI shortblock ( if the cards alligned ) for lower compression and a little more boost. 10-15 PSI. I think that the stock trans will hold it.

I had a 96 22e in a 99 SUS do the same thing. Ran great till closed loop, than like crap. Timing had jumped a tooth. I did everything to that engine before install so I went thru everything till I rechecked timing and that's what it was

I have a 2001 with ej251. I have a spare complete 1999 EJ25D from a 99 Lego SUS. I did a 2.2 swap on the Lego, and then sold it a while ago.. So I know I can only use the 25D shortblock

Well, I got my Forester back together, running just like it did but I notice its got a bottom end knock, light but its there... Gonna run as long as it will, but I figure I might need to put a spare together. If I buy a set of extra cylinder heads out of the junkyard it will cost $120. I could get a long block for $240 but it would be a crap shoot. I have an EJ25D long block I could use heads on and I know it was running but had blown gaskets.. An engine out of the junkyard with a decent warranty and known mileage will be $800 from a not so well run junkyard. Or an EJ20 jdm replacement with low miles for same money... I'd plan on buying a new plastic cam gear from the dealer and having it drop in ready.. Which way do I go?

Back up and running. Don't know as I'm an expert on them, but I know ill get the next one done. faster

May or may not have egr, so you may or may not need the workaround

I see, that makes sense now. That was deffinetly the problem.. I got it in place again, belt is now much tighter than it was. cogged idler went in ok and all marks are on the money, smooth side idler bolt got a little stripped before I noticed it was crossed.. of course, thats not a tap size that I have in my arsenal, and doing this after work when every place is closed. I had to give up for the night and I'll grab a tap tomorrow.. Gonna borrow a fresh bolt from the other engine just to make sure its good and then it should be good to go... Good thing I can catch a ride to work when needed..

the thin oil has a lot to do with it, but I wouldn't risk damaging the cam timing system with the wrong oil, or setting the code associated with it.

I didn't get a tensioner sleeve? do you have a pic of what I need? I bought the timing belt kit off Ebay, it wasn't really a kit just what a seller packaged as a kit. consisted of a Mitso TB 304M belt, and the 3 idlers for $85. figured that was all that was really needed to keep this block going for as long as I can, since I don't think it's gonna go another T belt interval before something happens to the short block... Both of the tensioners I had were identical with Japan and NTN markings. there was no sleeve in the bolt hole on either. the bolt had 'room to wiggle' so to speak, but it was the same on what were both running motors so I figured that was right. ( this is my first dealings with new style tensioner )... The new tensioner I just bought has a sleeve that's a little bit longer than the body of the tensioner, bolt has no 'room to wiggle' and that seemed like I would have expected in the first place.

Subaru's cut off is 1qt every 1,200 miles, and the issue is basically confined to a piston ring issue in the 2012-2013 model years of FB20 and FB25. They will burn right around that 1,200 mile mark until eventually burn a lot more and that happens very quickly. Subaru replaces those engines under warranty when they get that bad... The manual states you can use 5W30 every other oil change but that the 0w is needed for the hydraulic camshaft valve solenoids. The cams may not advance correctly with the wrong oil. If it's burning 1qt in 3k miles, then I would consider that good. I had a 2014 Ford Fusion, that burned a quart in that time w/ 40k miles. That was a 1.5L Ecoboost ( Hot air Turbocharged ) running 5W20 synthetic