matt167

I replaced the junk bolts. I'm lucky that I kept the spare EJ25D thru the time that I did not even have a Subaru, and all the bolts on that which were the same were perfect. the short bolts on the engine in the car were fine to use.. I havn't actually run into stuck bolts on this car, just bolts with rounded heads due to someone else. Nothing that a set of Irwin Gator Grips won't take care of.

The belt was flopping into itself on the cogged side. Damaged it a it a little... It was obviously pretty loose. Weird thing is, when I loosened tensioner, it clicked down more and belt tightened.. I still changed it cause the new tensioner, a beck arnley has a bushing, both old tensioners do not.. Waiting on another belt because it seems stretched

I put GMB rollers in it, but the engine needs overhauled so I didn't want to put much more in it. Just keep the heads safe so when it finally blows, I can swap my other short block in it

That's what I plan on. Have a new tensioner coming in later today too.. Hopefully I can do like jack lalane did. Set it and forget it lol

Well, its a vibration on the pass side head. Sounds like a belt flap.. The cover is brand new too. The old one was broken badly. Bottom idler is definitely on. I made sure everything was right and tight before putting the cover on. All the idlers were wobbly. I used gmb idlers..

Yup, I did all that. I counted the belt marks 44\47 which is what the lines match up as. Its a mitsoboshi belt which I understand is one of the better ones. The only thing I didn't do is rotate it over before I pulled the pin.. But I checked to line up on the marks twice ( 4 rotations iirc ) after I pulled the pin and it was good.. Its running perfect, except I can hear the belt flapping on the cover..

Is there any special way to install tensioner? I just positioned the piston over the rub block where it goes and locked it down.. Pretty sure tensioner is really bad but making sure. I'm used to old style tensioner

Got the car together and it has to come back apart... Evidently belt has some slack. Runs perfect but I can hear belt flap on the timing covers. Think the tensioners bad. Borrowed a brand new tensioner from a ej25d that had a complete timing service right before I pulled it due to headgaskets and replaced with a 2.2.

Yep, 22e is a single overhead cam.. 95 is dual port exhaust, or DP.

2002-2007 Impreza. Small, sporty and reliable. Its not EJ22E reliable but they wont break down all the time either

That's a rod knock which is common on the 25D since they are prone to severe overheating... IMO, project car. $500 at best if the body is that nice, but in Virginia their easier to find than here in NY so it might not be worth that at all.. I gave $1,400 for a pretty nice Forester S. Has 220k miles and a piston slap when cold but I drive it every day.

We don't want to exceede what the trans can take, which from what I've read is right around 300hp but not if it's down low... This car was stock when we picked it up. down to a factory exhaust. Only Mod that was done was a set of gauges in the clock place.. I put an N1 Copy Catback on it to keep her happy since it was too quiet for her. That's pretty much where it is right now. It hasn't really been abused, she does not treat it bad and it's been reliable for her. Had a freak thing happen once where the battery went dead but nothing more than that. I don't get how a Turbo shortblock is $1,800 and a replacement shortblock for my EJ251 is $2,700

I got it in today. Waiting on the cover to come in tomorrow. I counted the ribs to 44/47 and lined it up. Almost had it off a tooth because I was using a hash mark right next to the real mark on the pass side. Had the belt off and on more than a few times.. Had to read the diagram quite a few times before I picked up on it.. But its in all lined up.

HF used to have the best deal on airhose. 100' 3/8" of Goodyear rubber hose for something like $20. It was probably blems they were getting but any I have do not leak.. I also have a 25' HF rubber hose, and it holds air too. I HATE pvc hose. We use the red rubber hose at work, not HF but same manufacture I'm sure.. It's adaquate at best. once it gets some age, it leaks at the crimps and I have had one crimp fitting explode.

95 dp is the only 22e with the newer electonics and dual port head.. I wouldn't hold out for one. At this point there hard to find. You need one from an auto with EGR.. 96-98 22e will swap easy enough. Only functional difference is single port y pipe needs swapped. 97-98 are interference too, but that does not matter. Any of those engines are single cam, and have silver almost ribbed valve covers that the spark plugs are clearenced for but do not go thru the cover. If you can't find what u need, you could short block the car with almost any Subaru Ej engine to 2010. Just use your heads and intake, and use ej25d head gaskets. I know the yard I go to will let a short block go for $50, so its an option

Half way into this. Last belt job was either an incompetant shop or a DIY'er without good tools.. 3 of the bolts on the timing cover were rounded with obvious tool marks, so they were put back in that way. I couldn't get them out. a bottom bolt was purposly broken away from the cover and has obviously never been out, and the cover was quite cracked and destroyed anyway. So I just busted it off the car. I'll extract the bolts without the cover since access is better and I'll grab a new cover. There only $60.. Timing also looks like it was not spot on. IDK drivers side cam looks to be a few degrees retarded when the passanger side and crank are lined up. It runs fine like that but makes me wonder

which 2.0L? EJ205 turbo, a JDM or other non domestic market N/a EJ 2.0L or the new FB20 2.0L? If your talking about the FB20, used in 2012- current Impreza and Crosstreks, it is a decent engine. 2012 and some of 2013 have oil burning issues due to faulty rings or pistons. Subaru is replacing engines that are burning more than 1qt in 1,200 miles. I don't know what the max miles are for them to honor the warranty but my mom just had her 2012 Impreza 5spd ok'd and it has 109k miles. Burning 1qt in 600 miles.. Information online suggests it is 100k miles but evidently that's not a set in stone number

Trade it on a 3.6R. That's about where it's at these days

Well, yea she wants more power. I know the EJ205 has to be getting tired. I could do leakdown and compression tests to really see where it is, but at this point, I think trying anything big is gonna end up with broken parts... I'll have to look into the JDM 2.0 turbo.. Do they need an ECU change? I read the heads are great but they need a jdm ecu... Edit.. Looks like the STI 207 has the AVCS, requires AVCS wiring and ECU change. May or may not talk to OBDII scanner ( we need OBDII for state inspection ).. Solution would be use 207 short block and 205 heads, and boost it more or plug AVCS and run non AVCS cams if they are even available.. Current cost for the engines, are $2k min for a V7 EJ205 is just like USDM 205. Cost up to $1,800 shipped with 45k miles. Not really any upgrade. just replacement. From what I've also read, a 1999-2001 EJ222 short block also drops in and is quite common for getting a blown WRX back up and running.

My friends WRX's EJ205's getting a little tired, it's got some idle and stalling issues and deffinetly does not run exactly like it should, oil leak started recently and it does burn a little too. It does remain drivable but it has a little over 160k on it now. Also timing belt is due in 40k miles. She was talking bigger turbo and intercooler which I don't think would be kind to the worn 2.0L... More or less she relies on me to take care of this car and when something needs done or she wants something for it, we go for it.. I told her that a Hybrid STI swap would be the best idea, and buy the correct size turbo, STI take off Up and Down pipes, run stock STI boost pressures and accept what that will give as performance. It won't wear the engine excessivly as an over boosted 2.0L and she will get a fresh engine with a little more punch.. Yea, if we had $6-7 grand for non stock internals we could get a lot more out of it without worry, but I think starting with an STI at that point would be a better option.. The car is solid with no rust, so it's worth it I notice that, Subaru sells a brand new shortblock listed for 2008+ STI for about $1,800. Most rebuilders list 2004+.. Will the brand new short block work? I know that the 2.0L heads need reworked for use with the larger bores ( or do they really ? ), and that tuning is required to run it.. Can I put an N/A 2.5L in it as an interim engine while the EJ205 heads are sent out for modification? I know it would take a regular Y pipe and exaust interim pipe. But just so she had wheels

What about the egr? 95 auto heads are tapped for it, mt heads are not

If you have a factory manual. I would follow it. If you don't have a factory manual.. go here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru you can turn it over in park

EA, I think is a pre 1995 engine, so should be the old style tensioner. Really they didn't change until 1998 or 1999. Most if not all 22E's will be the old style non intergrated tensioner..

three bond and ultra grey are functionally the same and Subaru lists Ultra grey in the FSM because of that.. I've never split an EJ case, but on a chainsaw gasket delete where Ultra grey is also used for the same purpose, we do the same thing. smear it on and tighten it up.

The only specialty tool you will need comes with the clutch kit usually. It's a spline alignment tool