matt167

yup, either or, were a front pump. The ford fmx was the last ford trans with a rear pump I think. Once the converter locked, it would have fired pretty quick

the '83 wouldn't have a rear pump, would be a front pump, but probably had a lock up converter that locked up once the wheels got up to speed. That could have spun the motor over.. I had a '51 Chevy with a 1st gen powerglide, and indeed with the rear pump, you could drop it from neutral into gear and it would pop start it if it was moving fast enough

I do use a cheapo meter, and have found it accurate when I have diagnosed bad rectifiers, that's how I was shown and always done it that way.. As I recall, .5V A/C is the max limit. I tested the alternator on my 2001 Forester which I'm pretty sure is the same alt as the WRX, and got .02V A/C and 14.5v charge voltage, so I can use those as baselines knowing that it should be at least close to that. sometimes with high A/C it will also output a low D/C voltage while charging too... Over the summer, I had a 1995 Chevy pick up of a friend of mines. batt registered 12.6v with engine off. When engine was started, voltage went down to 11.6 but alternator was charging. When I checked the A/C voltage, it was putting out 15v of A/C.. I put in a $40 junkyard alternator in it, and problem fixed..

Subaru's don't change with the car off. If I put 8 gallons in my 2001 Forester, from the time the reserve light comes on or within a few miles anyway, it goes up to 3/4 tank. the first 50 miles or so, the needle drops slow, but then it becomes rapid. I go 200-230 miles on that 8 gallons. It's like 27-28 MPG avg.

I can do an A/C voltage test on the alternator if I can get to the car. It's not mine tho, it's my GF's and I won't see her or the car till at least tomorrow night.. I just want to make sure shes not stranded before I can check the car. she does have a real volt gauge in the center clock replacer gauge pod, and knows to alert me if it drops below 12v or goes above 15v I didn't change the knock sensor when the code came up because the turbo sensors are in the $80 range, not the usual $20. So I wanted the code to come back once before I swapped the sensor. It will limit the advance I think with the sensor code, so it's safe to drive at least as long as she does not hammer on it but she does not drive like that. Batterys on the replace list due to the no start

I have a scanner. Its not my car tho, so I haven't been able to get to it... It could stay charging if the diodes were bad. It would put a lot of ac voltage in the system tho.

2004 wrx, had a dead batt the other day, now has a cel. Have not gotten to scan code yet.. It had a code last week for a knock sensor, first it had ever triggered a code in my care. I reset it and figured if it came back, I would replace sensor. But this time I think it might be alt related? I have not got to test diodes yet but its drivable still, and charging so I think if anything, the rectifier is gone

U need 4.44 ratio. Imp is 3.90. Outback or forester around the same year as your Baja is your best bet.

yup.. Your golden swap would be a 1995 Legacy Ej22e from an auto. 1995 is last year of dual port 2.2 and first year of the version of electronics you need. Any 96-98 ej22e will work tho. Just need the y pipe if single port

My Forester passed NYS inspection with 4/32" of tread on 215/60/16's, which is the size on the door tag and I know pretty common among Subaru.. But since I work in a tire shop, I looked into the smallest All terrain tire I can get. And 215/65/16 is available in a General Grabber AT2.. I did the calculations and it's only 1/2" in sidewall height greater. 26.1" Vs 27", so the difference will be within 2mph on the speedo/odo BUT, will they really fit? Tires are $124 each and I'd have to special order

keep in mind, you need the ej25D head gaskets since the pistons come up proud of the deck on them, and not on the ej251\253. You will loose a tidbit of compression too

Anyone know the size of the snap ring for the HKS SSQV BOV? Installing on on a WRX and the snap ring bent out of dimension and won't fit.. Might have to go to HKS to get their $30 kit, but would rather spend $10 at Fastenal as much as I hate that place..

a couple hrs with someone with a cnc and intake adapters would be ready to bolt on. Providing the spacing is identical.. Could cut 2 manifolds apart and have adapters tig welded out of them... The real answer is, swap the vehicles heads with the new short block.. Or could do Ej22e heads on a Ej251 block I'm sure. Not ideal but no CEL and it would run

look up o2 sensor eliminator. They may still exist, but they may not. They were a resistor that you wired in. I recently welded an o2 sensor bung back in with a stick welder, so if its still there enough, you can fix it.

simple.. Factory cat converter setup uses 2 cats.. The header eliminates a cat.. California emissions will not certify that. Its plain and simple

your in California, so yup it will fail.. Even if no light, which there shouldn't be, its not gonna pass visual missing a cat. They wont even try to pass it

my brother had an '84 GTI in HS. I think it was a 1.8L. Previous owner turned it into a street legal ice racer, had a tuned up engine with Cams and a 'cold running switch' that did seemingly nothing.. pile of garbage really, but reasonably quick and with his mediocre driving skills, It's a wonder that car didn't kill him

permetex makes a defrost repair kit. comes with an epoxy to glue the 'tabs' back in place and a copper paint to fix broken defrost lines

well, passed inspection today.. Has a pending code for p0442, small evap leak. But my scanner said emissions test ready so I took it to the local small ford dealer, who's a good friend of mine... I think gas cap might have been loose, but I got a year to figure it out, if it does fail again and trigger CEL

hold brake pedal with engine off. Start engine holding brake. Pedal should drop just a little. No drop, means no assist working

1998-2008, the Forester was basically the same. 2009 brought some changes but not much. A newer look mostly.. The Forester has grown tho.. I parked my '01 next to a 2014 and it towers over my car

lot of those systems were installed in that era. Moisture bad connections and age are not kind to them

2.5 cars should be the same in 99 I would think. So a GT and outback would be same

My 2014 Ford Fusion will gain 10-20mph easy down hill in cruise, even when it kicks down, the 1.5l can't hold the big car back.. Mopar has had cruise that kicks down a gear since the early 00s

it sounds like the car has an immobilizer installed that is haywire... probably an early anti theft box lurking somewhere