matt167

spec for functioning cats is 500* hotter on the output vs the input. That is from the catalytic reaction. I used a laser non contact thermometer. The temp in and out is the same.. I was able to see honey comb when the bung was out of place, and its not clogged at least yet.

read the dipstick right. Should be up to the dot on the front side which is marked. On the back side, it will come up to the notch on the side above the full mark.. When

some vehicles have adapted or regulated cruise control. That will kick down a gear or 2. But not all do.. And subarus dont

yea, its already cleared readiness test. I didn't mention before, i also used my IR thermometer and in and out were same temp..

broken belt too.. anything that sounds like a bearing? could be a noisy tire with a broken or slipped belt

Well, this turned into an ordeal but it's fixed... I studied the PID readings on the scanner during a drive, and the rear o2 was definitely mimicking the front at a slightly higher voltage. Coupled with the fact that the cats I found are cheap aftermarkets and not Subaru OEM, they probably were/are not functioning well, but not 'clogged'.. Coupled with that and the fact the only thing that inspection cares about is the CEL and the cats being there. I decided to go forward with the anti fouler.. Well, someone never put any anti seize on the sensor, and the cheapie Cat only had the sensor bung brazed in place and not well at that, it actually freed itself from the cat body with very little force... So I decided to weld it back in place. I threaded the anti fouler in the bung before welding, and actually welded both into the cat.. I did it on the car with 7014 rod and an old lincoln A/C 225 tombstone. I didn't think it would work but somehow, got it all sealed up and it seems to be fine.. Welds aren't pretty but solid enough.. No lights yet but the ride to work tomorrow will tell

Working with a bone stock 2004 WRX. I put a cheap N1 clone cat back on it and that's all that's done to it.. We want to eventually get into modding this car pretty heavy but street able and reliable. 250 AWHP is all she really needs. which is low by hybrid standards I think.. Basically 50-75hp over stock should do, but want some room to turn the boost up for track days since a track JUST opened up in our area this summer I'm the most 'fun' way of doing this is to build an EJ255 shortblock with the EJ205 heads, creating a hybrid STI.. I've read the early EJ255 pistons have more dish so when used with the 2.0L heads they have closer to stock compression than EJ257 pistons.. I don't want to buy a short block all done because that's no fun. Hence why I want just the 2 case halves, or maby an engine that needs bearings, cause I want to put upgraded parts in it like forged pistons and such.. I know I could work the EJ205 but building a bigger engine with cams, boost and such but doing the EJ255/257 hybrid STI swap saves the EJ205 short block as a 'spare' Is there any place that sells the case halves or is that a watch Ebay/CL thing? don't have the budget for it right yet and the car needs snow tires but I start a really good paying job next month.

what I want to know is why Subaru decided to cast "16 valve" in the ej22e valve covers when installed, its not visible.. Or the Subaru markings on the timing covers for that matter... Just thinking

should work fine... 2.2 is single port so you will need the y pipe for that engine

III put my new scanner on it. Front is switching, rear lambda sensor is switching also. Its slower but switching and the voltages are similar.. All emssions readyness tests except catalyst had passed... The freeze frame showed the sensors identical voltage, 36 mph and like 14% load

need 02-04 wrx wiring, and you will want a 5spd. I think a stock ej205 will be ok with the power

If your going 1999-2001 EJ222 for more HP, you might as well go EJ251 for even more hp 1990-1994 are going to be the easiest due to being OBD-1. 1997-1998 are the first interference EJ22E's, they have a little more compression and power over 1996 and eariler 1997-1998 EJ22E with a 1990-1994 EJ22E Intake and electronics/ ECU would probably be perfect I think all N/A 2.2L were rated around 130hp. N/A 2.5's are almost all 165hp

vac and breathers are good. I didn't check the PCV but I do have a spare used one from a 1999 EJ25D if they are the same valve.. It probably could use plugs and wires since they are unknown, but this engine does not run bad at all.. Exhaust is probably OEM, in good shape. no leaks in that. It's probably the cleanest, quietest Subaru with this kind of miles that I've been in, it has to be all highway miles cause any salt roads and this thing woulda been gone long ago. Once I get the OBD-SX I can make sense of the live data and figure it out.. Not having that is why the light is still on, but I never kept track of my last one after it was lent out last ( I was moving ) and now they say they gave it back to me.. The only thing I about guarantee is that the decarbonizer turned the light off since it was only after the treatment that it went out after a 50 mile ride home last night, light went out when I warmed it up this morning before leaving.. .. It's another $20 to prove that tho... I've been driving it daily for a week with the light on otherwise this is the stuff we use at Walmart minus the TB cleaner. comes in shrink wrapped together. http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/part_detail.jsp?PART_HDR_ID=84220

I'll add a little bit to this.. A day after I bought this car. The CEL came on, so I know the PO reset the codes. I didn't have a code reader since my OBD-SX vanished one day a year or so ago.. Working nights, I did not get codes scanned at Advance till a couple days ago but had a suspect that it was P0447 or P0420. It came back as P0420. I had read that Subaru would not replace a cat under 80k miles UNLESS it had a decarbonizing treatment done. Since I work at Walmart TLE and we do that, I dropped $20 on the service and the light went out for a brief time, about 30 miles.. So the test to me, proved either working sensors or the Cat was working correctly for a brief time, or the sensors fouled up from the decarbonizing and turned the light off when the downstream readings normalized due to the oil in the decarbonizer covering the O2 sensor... I have a new OBD-SX coming in the mail for tomorrow, and a new downstream O2 sensor. I think I'm going to install the sensor in a spark plug anti fouler, reset the code, run it around and the light should stay off

due to ecu differences, isn't the ej18 IM required? I know they bolt up the same but are different in electronics. ditto finding another engine. There too cheap for good engines to mess with. $150 engines are available. $350 engines are common and you will double that with a rebuild on an unknown block. You could even go with a 96-98 ej22, if you get a single port y pipe

there not getting replaced. I was pricing them. Their supposed to but only do that to 1995 and older. No shop around here would pass it with the wrong cats if cel was off with no codes

I see, that kinda makes sense.. Cats look fairly new on this. I haven't checked closely but they might even be OEM replacements.

I got a feeling the carb compliance is a certification only.. If the light is out it will pass inspection, so as long as they are good enough, they should work.. IF they are good enough.

My 2001 Forester is a CARB car. I decided to look up Cats in case it ever needed one and only a couple say CARB compliant but they all look the same. There is at least $100 difference between non CARB Vs CARB.. If I put a Federal CAT pipe on my car, will it throw a CEL? Inspection only checks for CEL when it's scanned

Yea, that would work if you got one. I don't want any bent valves.

Go to a different dealer. Nokian Hakapaulita are best, but you best be ready for the sticker shock. They are too much IMO to spend on a 3-4 month a year tire. Once a tire is 5 years old, it's discard age, Firestone Winterforce in my area ( heavy snowfall. 2'+ per year, we have had 5' snowfalls in recent years ) are the most common snow tire around. You will also find they are among the cheapest except the cheepo brands that come from China. As far as speed rating. Find a different dealer. A good dealer knows we don't have an Autobahn in the states, and most of us are likely to never exceed even the minimum speed rating on a passenger tire ( S 112 MPH ). I've had Tire rack cancel an order over an S vs T speed rating, and T is only 118 MPH, but the car was only ever subject to 75-80 MPH tops. I re ordered without the vehicle info, but have since found Tire Buyer which is an ATD division for online sales and they are cheaper and offer free shipping

Cool. I thought that the tensioner and water pump were the same. I wasn't sure tho.. I guess I'll pull the covers and get the parts. Is one of the sub $20 Ebay belts sufficent or do I need to spend $50 on a good belt?. I still have to put tires and a wheel bearing in it, trying to keep costs low

My new 2001 Forester needs a timing belt. Theoretically it's due unless it has been done early. I have an EJ25D that has blown head gaskets but the previous owner had just put on a new timing belt, idlers and water pump and put on about 1 mile per day driving to work for 6 months or so before I got the car ( 1999 Lego SUS ) and swapped the engine. I'll never need another EJ25D at least in a long while. Will those idlers work on the EJ251? 219k miles on the car. It will be the last timing belt for that engine I know the 25D belt won't work, which sucks too because I have an un used brand new belt for the 25D that I got when I was going to build a frankenmotor EJ22

yea, insurance is gonna total it.. They total above 75% of the total book value of the vehicle, which might be $1k, might even be $2k, but it's not gonna matter because you likely have $3k in damages with possible frame issues and such.. An adjuster will probably write it off just because parts are mostly NLA

back from yard for $25. I got 2 latches. One from a 1998 Forester and one from a 01 legacy wagon. Latches are same except for the handle release. also got bulbs a jack for $4 and a cargo net that I'm missing for $.91