matt167

The leak spray is gone, never was even able to trace it. the guy could have spilled coolant on the fan for all I know.. It's running GREAT, hasn't used a drop of coolant and it stays right on 1/2 on the coolant gauge.. I just changed the oil today which was dark but not bad. and pulled the instrument cluster to replace bulbs that were out, to find someone borrowed the bulbs and sockets for a different car. So it's off to the yard tomorrow for some sockets.. Also, the rear hatch latch is seized open. I can't get it free so I'll grab one of those too. I have it ziptied closed for the time being I've serviced some EJ251's with over 350k miles on them, so that's why I didn't think twice about 219k being high.. without that odo reading, I could tell people it has 100k on it and it would be believable.

Picked up the car last night and drove it home.. It had a violent shimmy above 45 MPH that smoothed out above 55 MPH but it didn't get hot, the heater got hot and it stayed hot, didn't smell like coolant and other than a wheel bearing I knew was howling it was ok... Took it to work this morning in hopes that the shimmy was a wheel balance issue and it was pretty far out, but zeroed out.. It now is shimmy free and runs and handles like a slot car. So this is what $1,400 got me.. It's got little rust but very presentable. , little over 219k miles but it's solid underneath. Brakes are decent and the interior is pretty immaculate

pull the vent and burp any air.. With as easy as it is to pull a Subaru engine, I wouldn't pull one and not do head gaskets. Even an EJ22E. You can ignore the timing belt if you want. It's non interference so it will only quit if it breaks

??? Po440 is evaporitive emissions leak IIRC... you have a likely leaking gas tank or fuel filler. those are the common causes on Subaru's

I think im gonna go to the yard and locate another EJ251 anyway. This car has 218k miles on it and the title I got with it shows 2008 issue date with 84k miles, so it has almost exactly 100k miles in previous owners ownership. Might need a clutch at some point given it's kinda stiff and probably orig.. so if I can drive the car till no clutch, and then put in a lower mile engine checked over with new head gaskets when it's time, it will be better. I could buy a set of EJ251 heads and put them on my EJ25D short block with 25D head gaskets. leave it on the stand till it's time. Heads would be $100 out of the junkyard. I'd find ones that have timing belt unbroken. seems like cutting the belt would make it so I didn't have to pull all covers and balancer, to get them out of the yard and off yard motor.

I planned on checking it for obvious leaks. It was actually dark when I looked at it. He had a light and I was able to check it over and test drive and it didn't get hot.. If it's not in need of a head gasket it will be a plus

so possible new Subaru is now my Subaru. Its a 2001 Forester. S I think. Clean clean in and out. They say it does not get hot but its blowing coolant over the engine, so I offered accordingly and got it. I've got a ej25d short block if I need, or ill just do head gaskets and timing belt and call it good..

Ok, so this is a nice dealer and all, but I just can't spend $6,600 on this car ( albit that is OTD price with tax, registered, inspected and warrantied ). It's a nice car but in 50k miles it takes another 20% dip in value and on a financed vehicle that's already quite old, it's not in the cards for me. SO, I searched Craigslist and found an 01 with a little over 200k miles for a little under $2k so I can own it free and clear. and it's nice and clean. T belt was done at 160k miles probably with the HG guarentee. Have not got it yet, but im first in line and see it tomorrow. if it runs good and the clutch is ok, I'll take a chance on it. I have a 1999 EJ25D that I could short block it with if it chucked a rod or spun a bearing I could swap out in no big deal ( I know heads, intake and sensors to match car )

I just did an oil on a 06 outback. Flickering oil light, no oil on the stick and no oil in the pan. But it ran and pretty good, except the tell tale sign that the rods were chattering and I shut that thing off as quick as I could before the block windowed from a rod that wanted out

you would be surprised.. At the TLE, I change oil on lots of subies. Many come in with a quart or less in the pan, still having oil pressure. Some do have engine noise but others don't. Most all are repeat customers.. Given that they leave full of oil, they are leaking or burning a lot in 3500 miles.

you only had a little under 2 quarts in the pan.. Hard acceleration the oil pump pickup sucked air and lost oil pressure. Even for a second it was likely a bearing was weak enough to either spin or just get eaten

I normally use Napa gold wix premiums but read the pure ones for the wrx were designed for them.

at least the old gunk motor flush was\ is kero last I knew. Have not used it in at least 5 years.

kerosene was used to dilute oil in colder temps..the motor flush products are generally just kerosene..

you can cut motor oil up to 10% with kerosene. Run a thicker oil, cut it 5% or so, and run a 3k interval.. Before multi grade oils, it was common to do that and in many owner manuals to do so for winter driving.

I service both my girlfriends 2004 wrx and her moms 2011 Legacy. I've always used the longer version of the filter on the 2011 Legacy but bought the listed filter in the Purolator on the wrx because I read it was designed and specd originally for the 2005 up wrx and then the books were adjusted to include 2002-2004... Is it safe to run the longer filter on the wrx so I buy 2 of the same? This is Pl14610 vs 612 iirc.. I've been reminded both cars are due.. They get 3k changes.

as I recall, 194s and T-5 bulbs make up the inst panel lights on that era..

looking a bit like a CRV.

engine swap alone is what I would do. The hood can be opened enough to clear engine. as for year changes and junkyard listings. Subaru changes identifiers every year or so and it confuses junkyards. A 1997 and 1998 2.5 are the same. Evap lines are in a different spot due to rear canister vs front canister, bit you can use it just fine. Hook the lines up as needed. A 2.2 swap works in any 2.5 dohc car until 1999.

the only thing i dont like about this car is the stereo. It was replaced with a single din pioneer. It has aux input but i don't think it has Bluetooth.. Will the stereo from a 1999 Legacy Outback work in it? I have one on the shelf. Its the premium stereo that's double din. I know that the storage shelf below the radio has to get removed, but they came with double dins as an option.

I have only heard one bad report on him, and it was due to a poorly installed bad credit immobilizer that caused a no start condition from time to time. As I recall the owner would never give him time to diagnose the car. Her credit required the immobilizer

his warranty is parts and labor, plus lifetime labor discount after warranty.. I'm sure I could provide higher quality parts if I wanted. He sells a lot of cars, does not sell cars with rust, and always has a rolling inventory. The clutch feels great.. He told me to take it on the worst road in town and make sure it was good for me. hr does the idlers and WP. I asked and he agreed thet needed to B done on all.. He also gives a free oil change at 3k miles and a checkup and repair if needed.. All cars also have a 4 wheel alignment done at time of sale

well, I've had a 2014 Fusion for 3 months and due to its short Comings and possible fraud ( possibly was given a previously wrecked model as a Bait and switch ) I.might be able to get out of.. I also hate it. local used subie dealer has a 2004 Forrester xs 5spd with 156k. His policy is 12 month 12k and he wont sell an extended warranty. He does head gaskets and timing belt on every car he sells. Plus everything else he finds and new tires all around... He's offering me this car at around $5,500. It wont be over $6k. He doesn't expect it to need much so closer to $5,500. I did first test drive and its amazing. Not as amazing as my girlfriends 04 wrx but... Well she does not let me drive that anyway lol.. I test drive again once it has been 100% gone thru and either yay or nay it and we agree on a price

if they are both mt the trans should work. You may need the rear diff if the ratios are wrong.. 1999 2.5 autos use different electrics than a 1998 and earlier

aftermarket ecu will work, but if you have to get plugged in for an emissions test it will fail.