matt167

I think you could install a diode in the wire for the duty C solenoid so it does not backfeed the ECU. Then, run the full listed voltage for the solenoid to a switch to lock up the clutches. Should be full AWD at that time. Don't try to take tight corners because it will not happen.. Oh wait, I think you just subtract the voltage to keep it engaged . The FWD fuse applies full field to the solenoid to open it up

Unfortunatly '95 Won't work. '99 is single inlet and does not use the 2 line filler neck like the '95-'98.. I don't know if '00- later will work either... Even at that, things at work are winding up quick. I'm not going to have time to do a tank swap, being that the subframe and differential need to come out.. The local guy that I use when I'm short on time won't touch it.. I'm thinking that I can drop the tank just a little, and use a gas tank patch kit on the seam and see what happens.. I don't think the tanks is bad anywheres except right where it's split.

I took a good look at the tank and I think it might be patchable. Front corner seam on the driver side is split but a repair kit just might work.

My boss has a 2003 Legacy Outback with the 5spd that he bought new. It's pushing 200k now and the only things really wrong with it are, radio quit working right and the cruise quit. One set of head gaskets at 100k miles that he had changed before they blew.. The car does not look like it has 200k on it, but it does

Do aftermarket tanks exist?.. Found my tank has a bit of a leak and looks crusty so I don't know if a patch will hold for long, if at all. New OEM is $400 MSRP and used is $250-300 locally, but I don't know as I would spend $250 on a tank just as old as mine when the difference is only $150.. If there are any aftermarket tanks in the $300 range that would be better, but I have not found any aftermarket tanks.. This is for my '99 SUS and I don't know as I'm even going to go any further with the car. It just really needs too much, but I might because I do like the car.

'95-'99 crossmembers should work.. Engine tick may or may not be normal. Subaru's sometimes will knock if they have gotten hot, but the tick is usually associated with the hydraulic lifters on the pre 1997 engines Front and rear diff can take 80W90. Trans fluid is regular dexron/ Mercon you can get anywhere, same for the P/S pump. Careful with synthetics, Subaru does not recomend them for the earlier cars. No drain in the converter. Do a cooler line flush, or drain/fill twice IIRC 60k miles for the timing belt, replace idlers at the same time, cam seals if they are leaking and you can service the oil pump behind the crank sprocket if you want. EJ22 is a well regarded engine because it can go for 250k+ miles reliably.

L's are a base model car. GT's are on the same level as an Outback just built for a different purpose... I think the suspension is a little different, and they use Outback 4.44 gear ratio's. I could be wrong on that, but I know there is not much difference between them

It does work sometimes, Before I break out the torches, I always try tightening something if it won't budge at all the 'right' way. It actually compresses the rust just a bit so it can fracture and free up just enough.. Once you get a little movement, you can go back and forth and pick up some heat just from the friction and a little penetrating oil helps once it's hot enough... I have pulled some very crusty fasterners off some very old cars that way. Often I just tighten first.

You possibly could get it right. OEM's can't possibly be far off from one another. The Mustang and Ranger guys swap 8.8" differentials all the time, and if you keep the shims with the differential it is usually right on or at least very close. Just check the gear contact pattern and see if it looks good Any place competent in setting up new gears in a rear differential could do it if they were willing. Normally about a $2-300 job in labor costs tho I have Redline Shockproof lightweight and some redline LSD addative coming for my noisy diff. I've read that combination can quiet noisy gears quite a bit

Thanks.. BPT is switched with the one originally off the car ( EJ25D manifold ), it definitely looks newer. Spent more time fighting with the bolt on the side getting it lined up than it did to change it out.. The old one had some liquid look in it.. I stuck a wire down the tube into the EGR also. It seemed like it might have been blocked some.. Hopefully this will fix it.

AT Temp light and foamy oil normally would equal pump cavitation leading to an overheat. Not sure why the pump would cavitate the fluid but it did, overheated the transmission and it's most likely failed completely. There is a MAP sensor on the passenger fenderwell that can effect shifting if it's bad, but you have foamy oil which suggests mechanical faliure.. Good thing is, you should be able to use 1999-2003 Legacy transmissions and they are fairly inexpensive for tested units. You can't use Outback transmissions unless you change the rear differential also

They are great cars, Ditto on the tires. Price is not bad for NY but may be high for CA.

Should I change the BPT to see?.. I have the original BPT and EGR from the EJ25D.. I'll recheck the vac lines to be sure

I was driving my '99 SUS, running just fine waiting for the CEL to come on for an evap leak ( filler neck is not healthy, ) and instead it came on for a P0400 which is an EGR code.. I have a spare EGR and the back pressure transducer on the original EJ25D manifold. The parts from the EJ22 looked fine so I saw no point in changing.. What is the most common cause of issue with these? What's weird is it passed the EGR system readiness test but then failed with a code. I only have an OBD Link SX running off a laptop and the software can only scan, it won't force check things like a Snap On or other comparable scanner can, but $50 for it, I won't complain

Almost has to be a timing issue.

Plenty of LSD's are very light and will allow that much slip. Fords old Track Lok was almost like that in stock form. I'm not sure how much give a Subaru LSD has cause you can't do a burnout to find out.. Notice how once it catches the other side equalizes.. It's either got traction control or an LSD or just touching the brake could be enough to gain the traction as it adds friction to the slipping tire. The old way out of a sticky situation like that was to put on the E brake just a bit.. Look at it very closely. the driver side wheel slows very quickly then it just started climbing.. I'm not sure if 2011 Foresters had the electric parking brake or not, but a quick tug on the handle could have gotten that car moving like that.. Traction control uses the brake ABS system to add friction, which is the same thing. It may not be rigged as I originally said ( was actually bad wording ), but I don't think it's 100% honest. That said, I'd still take a Subaru over any of them in that lineup

Marketing Ploy. The test is actually rigged. Differentials will always freewheel a slipping side unless they have an LSD clutch pack setup or a locker and the passenger side is usually the side with the least traction in the event of a low traction situation.. Some Subaru's do have a rear LSD and it's quite obvious that particular vehicle has one. Has nothing to do with power.. Little touch of the brakes can also get out of the same situation without an LSD... Still the Subaru AWD is one of the best

Yea, I think I checked the dipstick about 10 times to be sure. Both hot and after I let it sit and cool for a few mins.. When I dumped the old fluid back into the empty bottle, I found I put in almost exactly what came out.. That was after I had already checked the level 10 times.. Hopefully I can get 10k miles out of the whole transmission. If I can do that, i can postpone the trans swap until next spring

My mom has to borrow my Subaru tomorrow as she hit another deer with her car, and my grandparents needed theirs back. I decided to check the fluids and the trans fluid did not look quite right enough for me on the stick, so I decided to change the fluid ( did not touch filters ). I planned on doing the 3 time change when I did it. Anyway I just wanted to get some good fluid into it, and had 2 gallons of ATF so I figured it would be good enough.. Fluid came out black and burnt. The transmission shifted and ran fine, it wasn't malfunctioning or anything but now with a little over quarts of new fluid, it does have a bit crisper shift.. How long you think it might last? The front diff is making noise and the trans will be replaced when the differential gets really noisy so it's not a big deal.

I sold a truck on Ebay years ago. Got what I would have if I sold it local.. The Autocheck used to be free, but they now charge for it. You used to be able to put in a Vin number, preview an otherwise blank listing and get the autocheck report for free... I look for cheap boats on Ebay, but not cars

The oil pans will swap. EJ25D is different looking but it'll work. Dipsticks and tubes are different tho. They are bent a bit different and sit differently..

That can be done. Metal working is not that hard to get curves going the right way if you have a good tree stump or vice anvil to shape on and a little practice. I have a planeshing hammer that works very well for that

Interesting, looks pretty cool. Appears that Jegs is selling a brand in straight sticks. I personally do not deal with rolled brake line. http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-NiCopp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Lines/2111534/10002/-1 I have poly lines that I put on my truck 3 years ago, ran over calcium cloride covered roads after the floods 2 years ago and thru the salt each winter and the frame is starting to get bad, but the lines look brand new, just dusty.

Parts are more than likely available, just not thru the normal channels like Rustrepair.com.. A Bodyshop will have several catalogs for companies like Keystone and one will have parts in it. Probably not 100% fitting but they exist. Need to find a good bodyshop, and have them order it, or even have them do the repair.

Nicad is Nickle Cadium. Copper is not DOT approved so any brake line should never have copper in it but I doubt it does... I searched but can not find any reference to nicad brake lines