matt167

I have always used the polymer coated lines, which can be gotten from any parts store since it came available. It's green in color

You can, but I'm not sure on the wiring. I personally do not think the H6 is a worthwhile upgrade. You could do a 2.2L from 1999-2001 along with the 2000+ 2.5L. Also I think 1998+ SOHC Forester 2.5's will work but I could be wrong on that

Bull.. Subaru dealers use a calibrated lead weight to calibrate the old seats. From what a service tech told me it was not uncommon to have them fall out of calibration.. The 2012+ models use a hydration sensor and do not go off weight and cannot be calibrated.

Inspect all 4. The Subaru is an open deck so it could leak from the coolant passage to the chamber on any side of the bore for each cylinder.. Seperator plate is probably much of the leak. your seeing. Some may be the oil pan. Both are sealed with permetex ultra grey ( Subaru ok's the use of it as per the manuals, and it's easy to get ) so it's inexpensive.. Engine pull is really no big deal.

IMO, I put victor reinz valve cover gaskets on my car. They fit and looked just like OEM, and the kit came with the bolt seals ( which are as good or better than OEM ), where as OEM is extra. To determin if your head gaskets are bad, check for bright white spark plugs

Found out from Legacygt.com. It does appear that the speed sensors are the same part number from 1999- 2004 also It appears that a 4.11 trans goes back to 1999 even by Car-part so I should be good that way also, with the 4.11 rear diff

Right. The line voltage for a phone charger is about 5V DC current ( you could find the right pins on the Iphone plug and measure both for verification ). Plugged into the wall or a car charger.. It won't hurt a thing.

not sure on the A/C outlet but it may have a USB charger. If not it will have a regular accessory outlet you can plug a charger into

IIRC some Felpro is marked "FHI" because they are the original manufacture of the OEM gaskets. I'm a believer that a quality parts store gasket meets or exceeds the original quality of the OEM gaskets.. With the engine itself, reseal the oilpan, rear seperator plate and valve covers at a minimum. You can go one further and do the cam seals, and oil pump seals but if there is no evidence of anything wrong, you really don't need to. They are actually remarkably easy to work on. Also, a new OEM thermostat should be used.

I got conformation that 1999-2003 will swap.. Will a regular Legacy model trans swap in? I know the differential is 4.11 and not 4.44 but the transmission is so much cheaper to get a pulled trans ( $200 grade A low mile tested vs $600+ for a 'works' trans ) that if I had to spend another $50-100 on a 4.11 rear diff, it would be worth it.

The way I read things is the JEBA trans switchover in mid '99 up to about 2004, transmissions are interchangable, but I have yet to find any 100% verification.. It's almost worth it to do the 5spd swap. Yard I use is littered with 2.2L 5spd Legacy's but then I'm not sure I'd have enough to pull the boat out.. My truck is a 5spd, but I actually want something I can just put in drive for a change, especially if I'm going to tow a boat

I bought it from a friend of mine, but he sold it cheap needing a head gasket but I dropped a good '96 EJ22E in it which I fully resealed and serviced. If I can figure out which transmissions will swap into this, I will probably search out a used transmission but wait till it finally blows to swap it. As of right now, I'm finding the only interchange is a 1999 JEBA trans from an Outback/SUS and I can only find them locally for $700- up. If more years swap, then a few from the '00-'04 years are quite a bit more reasonable. I could also get a U pull transmission from a yard for about $150 if I know what models work.. I'd find a 5spd car and convert it over to 5spd except I will tow my boat with it ( ~1,300 lbs on trailer ) so the auto will be nicer than killing a clutch to get it moving.

You have 75k miles on a belt most likely rated for 60k, so yes it should probably be changed. I think you can go for the 105k mile belt if one is available for it. Otherwise, change the belt and idlers. That engine is non interference so if it breaks, it's not a big deal except the tow. The fill neck is one complete part and $80 from the aftermarket. Common rust out due to a guard Subaru put up in there.

You need to check for the transmission code in a '99. Late '99's have a JEBA trans, and the earlier cars got a DBA trans. DBA trans is the older version, JEBA appears as a 1 year only but may swap with other years, I have just found no information on that

I'll keep a check on it. Not sure what is supposed to come out with the dipstick, but in my case, the entire dipstick tube came out. Dipstick itself is stuck in the tube ( is it supposed to be? ) and I had to use pliers to remove the tube itself. I marked the tube before I pulled it out so I knew the oil level would be right when I installed the tube to the same depth.. It's TIGHT in there.. I'm actually planning on changing gear oil in another 1k miles or so, and filling up with Amsoil Extreme gear 75W110 with LSD additive as I have heard that is good at quieting noisy gears.

touch over 40k I think

It's been checked, checked again and again. Actually the dealer is tired of seeing the car.. Spec from Subaru is 1,200 miles ( called SOA ), and any time they have done their tracking tests, it passes with a few miles to spare.. From what I have learned, the 2.0L's just use oil. SOA has even been called on the issue and they say it is what it is. I have several references to other cars using the same amounts

Well, gear lube is changed. It was a tad low, but not bad. no shavings except what looked like bearing grease on the plug. It may have been metallic particles suspended in oil making it thicker but definitely not chunks or shavings.. Still whines but it's a little better. I used approx 50% Lucas oil stabilizer as I figured a bit of cushion wouldn't hurt. The gear lube I used was 80W90 semi synthetic Valvoline.. The CEL is off, so it may pass inspection and not need anything more for the time being, so I'll probably just drive it till it pukes.

The 2.0L has a timing chain, so you have a longer maint interval than other cars with a belt. The oil usage will get you tho. My moms burns 1qt/1,200 miles give or take. Subaru spec, makes it 'ok' to burn over a gallon of oil between 7,500 mile oil changes. She has her oil changed at 5k intervals by the dealer who uses their 0W20 spec because the car calls for it. 5W20 would burn much less

I'll change the gear lube, check for shavings and report back.. It made a little noise when I bought it, but did not know enough about Subaru's then to discern that it could be a major problem.. It might be the way it was when I bought it. Noise is easily covered up by the radio, if I can just drive it and it won't leave me stranded.

Except I have a reliable vehicle. This was bought as a second vehicle that could keep the miles off my truck and get better MPG. As it is, I could have bought a lot of gas for the truck with the money spent, but if it needs any more it just makes no sense to go any further, when my truck is in perfect mechanical condition

Just recently got my '99 Lego SUS back from the local mechanic. Had him take a professional look at the timing and I had it off a tooth, Runs fine now, except the front diff started to howl on the way back to my house. Not horrible, but about 60 MPH I can hear it... Is this going to blow up if I just change the gear lube and drive it? Not putting any more work into this car beyond what it needs to pass inspection.. Trans is tight and shifts just fine

I just used standard 5/8" heater hose off the parts store spindle. Fit just fine.. I think all 2.5/2.2's from '95-'99 use the same hoses tho.

I use an OBD SX II from scantool.net. Came with the OBD Wiz program. works great with my laptop, and has scanned 3 Subaru's. 2 1999's and a 2012 just to see if it could and it does

I would pass.. It reads like all the other extended warranty sham's. Read the exclusions, and everything is excluded by that contract including 100% of it within the first 90 days or 1,000 miles.. excluding 'Worn Out Parts". and in the means of that warranty, is their way out and ability to exclude just about everything at their will just by saying it was worn out. Don't think they won't try, they will...