matt167

Could it idle smooth with a bad injector?. It stays solid on 700 RPM.. As far as pressure washing, I have not but I did clean the engine up before install and that included carb cleaner and PB blaster when I cleaned the cylinder head mating surfaces.. They are grey top injectors and the EJ25 had red tops. should I swap them?. Have not checked the fuel pressure yet as I do not have an EFI gauge but I was going to get a fuel filter because that's the last filter that is before my ownership

Thanks. They are the same length. Only cost $22 if it don't work

Just finished up my '99 Legacy SUS EJ22E swap. Motor runs great, solid idle at 700 RPM and 3% load. Before I started it, I left the engine wiring connectors unplugged and rolled the motor over for oil pressure. When I first started the car it was running great but at a 2000 RPM idle, after a while it dropped down but shook like an old diesel. Front catalytic converter was glowing red but they are both in new and it had a break in procedure. I increased the engine speed to 2,500 RPM for the break in period ( 2 mins ). When I got it back down to idle speed, it roughened up and quit. Re started it and it would not idle. I held it at 1k RPM for a min and then it began to idle smooth at 700 RPM, engine temp does not go over 199* when the fan comes on or below 196* so I thought it just needed some running time. Drove it around some and it was running great, then as I came up a large hill, it lost a bit of power and then began to missfire above 30% load. I had a freeze frame for P0301 at 51% load 37 MPH, open loop due to engine load.. Now driving with the laptop and watching the load, I'm getting missfires right at 30% load and up. sometimes it seems to start around 28% Codes are P0301-4 and P1507. CEL does not flash all the time during missfires. I have not cleaned the idle air control yet but a solid 700 RPM idle tells me that's most likely not it Current repair/ maint list is 1996 EJ22E swap- retained wiring, cam and crank sensors from EJ25D, all other sensors are from the 1996 engine New head gaskets, timing set w/ water pump. Spark plugs ( NGK ) and a new coil. I reused the plug wires on the '96 as they are the blue NGK's and in good shape Both front and rear Catalytic converters, both O2 sensors ( Bosch ) New Air cleaner element Any insight?

I looked up the interchange for my Subaru Legacy ( 1999 SUS ) and it came back 1998-1999 Legacy only. Got to the yard to find every 1998-1999 Legacy either had no motor or the compressor was locked up. I found a good compressor in a 1998 Forester ( EJ22 swapped to boot ) and it looks like the line that goes into the side of the pump is just a little straighter than on the Lego. wiring matches. Will this swap? I think I can get that difference in the connection worked out with the little bit of play in the rubber line, providing the pressures and such match what the Lego needs

Put breaker bar on the bolt, put it so that the bolt will contact the frame in the right direction. Bump starter. Whatever is breaking is going to break, so let it and fix it when it's apart.. Your balancer may have 2 small holes on the front outside ridge that drift pins will fit into so you can put a bar in between them and loosen the nut

I'v had the '96 EGR EJ22 since early April. Just got it in the car last week. New head gaskets, timing belt+ idlers and new hydraulic tensioner, Water pump and OEM thermostat, plugs, new ignition coil, new knock sensor, new vac/ PCV hoses, new seperator plate and I swapped the flex plate. I used the EJ25D harness, swapped the ignition coil connector with the EJ22 connector. Used the purge solenoid from the EJ25D as the EJ22 did not have one... Also have 2 new Bosch O2 sensors and 2 new catalytic converters because the EJ25 had a bad missfire when hot.. Also got a brand new Y pipe on it. I was going to use the EJ25D heads on the EJ22 block but decided not to...

IMO, a head gasket is something that I would never go cheap on, especially an open deck engine like a Subaru.. EJ22's generally don't have head gasket issues so they may be ok, but I would never chance it.. FWIW, the OEM gaskets are $50 EACH from a dealer, or can be had at a parts store ( Fel Pro IIRC, is marked FHI for EJ22's ). Victor Reinz which is what I used recently looks exactly like the gaskets I pulled off. They were $39/ each. Probably could get them cheaper online tho. Also, that kit shows dual port exhaust gaskets so you can't use that part on your '96 as it has single port heads, and JIS just means Japanese International Standard, which could be anything really.

Thanks. I thought it was a Tee'd line. I now remember cutting the line away and breaking the Tee pulling the lines apart when I removed the intake before pulling the EJ25D.. Now I just have to remember to buy a new Tee.. I thought I was one port short to have the cruise hooked up. I'll have to check for the pump but I have to assume it's broken as it was disconnected before I started

Small dillemia. FINALLY getting my 1999 Subaru back togther after doing a full maintinance on the EJ22E. The Engine is in, and I'm starting to hook up the engine. I came across the little vac port that is on the back of the fuel injector rail opposite side of the starter.. Where does it hook up to?. I know the line with the filter in it goes to the port on the intake.. The port line that goes to the cruise control actuator is also dangling, but I don't think I disconnected that.

This car is either fixed or in a junkyard. Check the original post date of Dec 2003

You should have enough room to pull out the dipstick enough that you can get to the oring connections, at least on my '96 EJ22, the dipstick can be rotated forward and pulled up and out but I'd be certain that an earlier dipstick is at least simmilar and you can gain access to the o rings

Yes, but you need to drain the oil. You just have to remove the dipstick mounting screw and pull the dipstick up.

OK, I forgot my camera but there is a connector that was obviously unused on the EJ22 harness. Missed it last time. A blue connector but it did not match the EJ25D's purge solenoid... In any case, the Evap system is installed identical to the EJ25D routing. I just need to get a new vac line to connect to the purge solenoid. Yesterday I found the line I bought from carquest was too short ( my fault, I told them 1' length ) and all the local parts houses were closed at that time. I decided to run to Harbor Freight to get a new impact wrench as the old 1 has no power anymore. I also figured that I could go to the Advance Auto right next door to get some vac line. I even had the too short length hose with me when I walked into Advance. the guy got some ( he had arleady cut it ) which looked too big to me but he said it was right.. Well today I found out it's one size too big, and a clamp works on the pipe because it's out in the open but it's too tight of a fit on the purge solenoid.. So engine install has to wait because I'm not going to fight with it in the car.. Changing the throttle body over also as the 25D's is better

Nope. It's not there and I checked the harness that I pulled off of it does not have the connector or obviously cut wires. I did not peel back or open any of the loom to check for cut wires but it looks like it has never been tampered with. Not sure why or if my engine was one of a few that did not get a purge solenoid. Where the solenoid goes under the #3 runner is a small tab with a bolt in it and both ports are plugged with original looking plugs. I'll take a pic when I go down.. Motor's actually still on the stand tho the car is ready and the EJ25D was removed a few days ago.. I also figured out while pulling the engine in my car that the torque converter bolts are accessable from below. It's a little tight but a socket and a swivle will go right up there. I'm putting the engine in complete because of the found access.

Looks like someones dirt cheap cob job truthfully. If it works, great but it is probably a headache going into it 'broken'.. The intercooler is a very basic run of the mill Ebay piece. I had one identical once and I think it was $35 or something. The connectors look like sewer connectors or even just radiator hose, another cheapo job. When off the shelf 'hard' turbo parts ( turbo, TMIC, up pipe, down pipe ect... ) will fit that car, he was saving exactly nothing by going his route, showing he either had an Ebay is cheap mindset or that he just had no clue

Hit a snag using the EJ25D harness but it is a simple fix and I think a better solution to running the EJ22E harness.. The problem with the harness is the EJ25's ignition coil does not fit the bolt spacing on the EJ22 Intake, also the coil plugs are HEI type and the EJ22 coil plugs are the old style plug type. AND also, the wiring connectors are different. The other issue with the EJ25D harness is actually a good thing that I cought. The EJ22 has no purge control solenoid ( EJ25D does ), it simply vents the Evap lines into a vac port after going thru the canister that would have been on the passanger side. I found it by having an extra connector with nothing there that did not seem right. I checked the EJ22 harness for the connector just to be sure.. So the whole loop the 2 evap lines togther can be bypassed when using the 25D harness. The large evap line runs from the connections on the driver side all the way to the passanger side front. On the EJ25D intake, the line terminates directly into the purge solenoid and then a small hose runs from the solenoid to the top of the intake. On the EJ22 intake there is a spot to place the purge solenoid and there are 2 plugged ports, one on the back of the intake and 1 on the top just as it is on the EJ25D intake.. The simple solution is to run a hose from the front of the motor back to the purge solenoid and then vent it into the intake plenum just like the EJ25D. The little metal Evap line can be cut back and discarded as it is not needed In the end, the only real 'mod' to make it all work is swapping the ignition coil connectors from the EJ22E harness over to the EJ25D harness and the colors match

I think the passanger side head bolts won't clear the frame, so you will need to jack up the engine after removing the motor mount nuts.

This is why I have a decal drawn up for my car that will go under the hood showing it as having a replacement engine and having the donor engines engine type and donor car's Vin number listed

The accessory drive belt has nothing to do with the timing belt behind the covers. It sounds as if your main engine pulley spun the key on the timing cog behind it. The key holds the main engine pulley in place and if it's spun off, it will never work right. You will probably have to pull the radiator and fans, pull the pulley and timing covers, rotate the engine so that the 3 hash marks point up to the marks on the rear plastic covers behind the cam pulleys and the crank sensor mark for the crank sprocket ( not the arrows ). I use 2 1/4" roll pin punches in the crankshaft sprocket holes along with a pipe to turn the motor over.. remove the timing belt. The crankshaft timing sprocket should also come off fairly easy by just pulling. You will need a new 1 as the key is part of the cog.. To reinstall the timing belt, the tensioner has to be compressed in a vice ( slowly, they can blow out and cost a min $60 to replace ) and then pin it with a rivit or something. I find that pulling the sprocket next to the water pump, installing the belt and then muscling that sprocket into place is the easiest.. I would get a tap for the crankshaft threads, just so you can be sure

And the lightbulb just clicked on. Guess that was a duh moment.. I'm used to having 1 tire on the ground, grabbing the other and feeling it locked against the park pawl. It's rare that I have an entire front end in the air. I had a 1965 Rambler fall on me in 2008 while doing E brake cables ( only suffered a cracked rib ) so I tend to not like being under vehicles too often.

I JUST got the EJ25D out of my '99 Legacy SUS. Because the car has to roll back out of the garage so I can finish up the EJ22E on the stand and bring it to the front ( single car garage ), I lowered the trans to the point that I could put the bolt thru the pitch stopper, and wired the torque converter in tight with some mechanics wire thru some bellhousing bolt holes. For whatever reason I grabbed a tire and spun it and it was not locked in park.. Could Jacking the trans pull it out of park? When I was jacking the engine popped a little but I thought it was just my lift chain, just hoping I did not break the shift linkage. I didn't think about the shift linkage when I was working on it

I'll see if I can get a pic a little later. It's pretty tight working right now as it's a tight bay now. As for Advance Auto, I don't deal with them unless I really have to. I have had the counter kids tell me something was not available only to search their website, find it and then give them the part number, sometimes that part is even right in stock.. Actually with the tensioner, I had called Advance and asked them, they said yup they have one in stock for $92. Verified it was the hydraulic ram itself and not the cam so I Went right down and... It was the cam. That's when I went to the Napa not that far away ( not my 'regular' Napa ) and they had it, so I bought it. I normally use a small Carquest which is only a few miles from my house. They are owner/ operators, know my name, and my voice if I call them and their prices are usually competitive with Napa + they give me price breaks frequently

My '99 SUS needs a filler neck. Mines rotted out right below the cap/ above the theft flapper. No funding for OEM, as the recent head gasket purchase and $182 timing belt tensioner I had to buy ( only place around that had 1 ) ate up much of my reserve funding for the car... Spectra makes 2 that fit a '99, FN818 listed for 2.2's and FN672 listed for 2.5's. When I put it into rockauto, FN818 comes up for my 2.5L, and FN672 crosses to some older Legacy's and Impreza's. Amazon has Subaru part number 42066FA030 linked to FN672 which I crossed back to some older 2.2's and Legacy's.. I'm reasonably sure that I can order FN672 from Rockauto without any vehicle information and it's going to be right.. Anyone have an idea?

Can I use the EJ25D wiring harness? I have both. I like the connector for the coil on the EJ25D being it's not a pigtailed coil and the connector is easier to remove, but I also broke the clip on the coolant sensor connector that sits directly under the throttle body on the EJ22 harness. If I can't, it's no big deal

Timing covers are in great shape except for 1 had a thread insert busted out of it from a recent timing belt change ( doubt belt/ idlers and water pump had 10k miles on them, but I changed out to new parts anyway. ) No melting on any plastic or other visible signs of damage and they all have 1996 date codes/ clocks so they have not been replaced. Originally I just epoxied a nut into the timing cover and had it back togther, until I started pulling plugs. I really should have done that first but I found nothing else alarming.. Cylinder really does not show water intrusion and the engine is clean inside and out. Piston on questionable cylinder is not steam cleaned as I would have expected, it is uniform with the other 3, and the chamber/ valves on the head are uniform. I really think it was just weeping a bit. Probably quite a few short trips/ heat cycles.