Kenneth1948

Appreciate the advice but you're right, junkyard didn't have the Festiva on the list, let alone in stock. I ordered the part and Autozone got it quickly but here's the really strange part: I pulled the spark plug wires one by one to find the cylinder. Plug was firing so I swapped the injector just to make sure I had identified the problem. Sure enough, the problem followed the injector. Of course I tapped it a couple of times before installing but no good. Daughter went out on 3 - cylinders to buy food and it started working again, been running well since! Autozone said they would give me a refund since I haven't taken possession of the part. I have often thought about soaking injectors in Kroil to free them up. I once freed up a stuck Bosch fuel pump with Kroil . . . . but that's another story. Thanks for the help, John Kenneth

I have a bad injector on daughters 1990 Legacy. Can't find one at short notice on a long weekend. It seems they only used the same injectors in 90 & 91 Is there a substitute off another Subaru or another car that will get her around for a day or so until I can get the right injector ordered and delivered. Thanks, all help is appreciated, John aka Kenneth

My post above yours re " . . . need help with diagnosis" has a couple of pictures that might help with the connection for the OBD diagnosis. My connector wire was too short, had obviously never been used. I cut it and used a jumper. Good luck, John aka Kenneth

Problem solved, running like a champ again! Often we forget to post the solution once the problem is solved which is so frustrating when you have a problem and search a forum. The problem was the MAF sensor as Mikaleda suggested. I ordered a new cheap MAF sensor on Ebay for $35 They wanted $30 at the junkyard and there's no guarantee it would work any better than the bad one. You can buy a new Hitachi MAF sensor for $225 which doesn't make sense for a 25 year old car with 200k (or any car for that matter, you can do the diagnosis for $35 then put an OEM part on if you really want to) It's worth running the old OBD Morse code diagnosis, it was right and it beats trying to guess. (Remember the old Haynes manual is dead wrong for this process, see the links above for the right steps.) Finally, thanks to all who replied to this post, your help is much appreciated. John aka Kenneth

Identifying the OBD I Connections: The Haynes manual is no help whatsoever, it tells you to disconnect the connection, you actually have to connect it. And the description of the connection is inadequate. The link above from Mikeleda is very helpful. I ran into the problem that the wires on the 2 parts of the black connector were not long enough to allow it to be connected. I had to cut one of the wires, plug the connector in and jump the connection. The attached picture shows the black connector, connected together. The white jumper is connected with one clip right next to the connector. The other connector is connected to the cut end of the wire (you can just see the wire top right of the circle). Hope this helps save someone some time John Kenneth

OK, that link helped, thank you. I was able to read the codes: 1. MAF sensor 2. Knock sensor 3. Oxygen sensor 1. MAF sensor: I cleaned the MAF sensor, didn't make any difference, I still suspect it might be causing this problem. 2. Knock sensor: Haynes manual says it's located "under the intake runner at the left rear of the engine." and to test the connector for ground continuity.If there is continuity to ground then the knock sensor is bad. Problem is, I can't find the knock sensor or the connector? Anyone have a picture, or link? Also, what are the symptoms of a bad knock sensor? will it cause the engine to stall intermittently? 3. My experience with oxygen sensors is the engine will run fine but with very poor gas mileage. Can a bad oxygen sensor cause my stalling problem? any help with 2 and 3 above would be appreciated. Thanks, john aka Kenneth

I assume the '84 has the OBD I check engine codes and you can't get them to stop! I have a 90 - 91 with OBD I. I need to read the code(s) but I can't find the connector to disconnect. Naru says, "definately the green one, unplug it" Should I be looking for a green connector on mine? Any help is much appreciated. John, aka Kenneth

Herin lies the problem. I can't read the codes. This is a '91, it's an OBD I with "morse code" codes. When I unplug the connector, the code(s) don't flash with the CE light. Please see my post and photograph, I'm not sure if I have the right connector. Rodents chewing through the wiring remind's me of an A40 Austin van that belonged to a friend of mine, with a family of mice that lived in the back of the van. Thanks, John Kenneth

'91 Legacy 200k has been running well for about 12 months. Now I have an intermittent stalling problem. New fuel pump, screen and filter did not solve the problem. Not predictable, can run 10 or 15 minutes with no problem or stall every 30 seconds. Re-starts immediately. Sets "Check engine" light Previous post said this could be the MAF sensor. The car is supposed to have some diagnostics. I can't get them to work. Haynes manual says disconnect connector adjacent to diagnostics plug and turn on ignition. Check engine light does not flash. Not sure I have the right connection? I will try to post picture. Circled connector is the one I disconnected. Any help with reading diagnostics or probable cause of stalling would be much appreciated. John aka Kenneth

Thanks for the responses, particularly the Wikipedia artcle. New to Subarus, daughter has a 1990 Legacy, I like it, just trying to get up to speed. Reason I asked about the interference engines is they pop up on Craigslist occasionally: "Broke the timing belt, easy fix" and I want to know which ones really are an easy fix! Thanks again, John aka Kenneth

1. Is there a reference somewhere regarding the models and the meaning of EA 81 and EA 82 T etc 2. Which engines are not interference. And which models were they used in? In other words if the timing belt breaks on a 1999 Legacy for example is it easy or more difficult to fix?? Thanks, John aka Kenneth

Clean Headlight Lenses for $1.00 I just cleaned the plastic headlights on my daughter’s Legacy and my Taurus and thought I would post this for what it’s worth: Buy a tube of toothpaste at the $ store. I bought 6 oz of Ultra brite for $1.00 Apply lots to a soft damp cloth and clean those lenses using a circular pattern and lots of elbow grease (free) Wipe off with a clean damp cloth. Repeat if necessary. Compare the first lens with the one you haven’t cleaned yet, I think you will be pleased with the results. I finished off with some Meguiar’s cleaning wax for extra sparkle and perhaps some protection. Not $1.00 and not really necessary, the toothpaste gets the job done and you can use the rest for your teeth. (However I would not recommend the Meguiars for that purpose) Next step, replace those old headlight bulbs with some better ones. Walmart stocks 3 – options: “Good, better, best” Sylvania brand which I have had good results with. I changed to the “better” choice for the Taurus and the combination of clean lenses and better bulbs improved the lights noticeably. Good luck, John aka Kenneth

Have been driving car since purchase in February with about 150K, with set of rebuilt injectors has been running very well for about 8000 miles. Tranny has started to give problems: 1/2 shift is fine. 2/3 shift is slow and seems to slip before accelerating in 3rd. Drained the fluid and is clean and doesn't smell burned. 1. I have not removed the pan but can do this and look for problems there. 2. Searching this forum I found references to a transmission filter that can get clogged? 3. Early Legacys were prone to blockages in fluid lines to radiator?? 4. There is a band adjustment but you have to remove the cross member and lower the tranny to get to it? 5. Is the band adjustment likely to resolve this problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Kenneth

Is your car AWD? Does it have 2 - senders? Was the other sender OK? Point I'm getting to is - Will one good sender resolve the problem or does it take two good senders? Thanks, John aka Kenneth BTW I was born in Otaki

Don't mean to perpetuate this string indefinately but I do have more questions. I have not had time to pull the other sender yet, the one with the fuel pump. I agree, it's probably in similar condition. Questions: Are the later model AWD Subarus the same or similar? Would it be possible to substitute or adapt a later model part? Thanks, Kenneth