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OCDan

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  • Location
    Oregon City, Oregon
  • Referral
    Googling for how to perform various repairs on my GL-10
  • Biography
    My mother bought the GL-10 brand new and it's been owned and passed around between family members since she passed away in 1996.
  • Vehicles
    1987 GL-10 Wagon, non-turbo

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  1. Cleaning and lubricating the slide pins seems to have solved the problem. Thanks for your help!
  2. Yes, I did check for bearing play and there was none. I did as you suggested with a wood block. Both pistons did extend and make contact with the pad. Could insufficient lubrication in the plungers be the cause of what is happening?
  3. I've owned the vehicle for 6 months. Almost 1 year ago, previous owner had a shop replace front left wheel bearing as well as left and right calipers, pads and rotors. A couple of months ago, I replaced the front right wheel bearing. Suddenly yesterday, we started getting a grinding sound from the front drivers side. It mainly happens when braking and it isn't constant. It also happens occasionally when not applying the brakes. When it does happen, it feels as if the brakes are being applied lightly. I've pulled off the wheel and removed the caliper assembly and rotor. I did not find any debris or damage to the rotor. Nothing unusual with the brake pads, plenty of life remaining, with uniform thickness end-to-end and side-to-side. I did notice that one of the two pistons in the caliper was extended approximately .25" more than the other. Also, on one of the plunger rods, the little protective boot was not attached at the outer end, and the grease inside is pretty dry and dirty. I'll clean them up and put new grease on them. I would appreciate your advice.
  4. This part, through which one of the axles passes into the trans-axle leaks gear oil through the threads. No problem with the axle seal on the inside of the part, which I replaced last year. But when I had it out to replace the seal, I did not replace the o-ring seal on the outside. I'm assuming this is the reason for the leak. Would someone please help me with the name or part number of that seal? Thank you!
  5. Thanks! Exactly the information for which I came looking!
  6. Gloyale, I got your reply to my one of my PM's and replied to it, agreeing to your asking price on the cylinder head. It looks like that reply didn't reach you. If you see this post, please contact me ASAP. My brother who lives in Salem has a business appointment in Corvalis tomorrow morning at 10:00 AM. Prior to that appointment (9:30 ish), he would be able to hook up with you, pay you for and pick up the part, if that works for you. Not sure what's up with the PM system or if others are experiencing similar problems. Of four PM's I've sent you, you've only received 1.
  7. Gloyale, I've been trying to contact you by PM. According to the status on the messages, they haven't been read by you yet. In the messages, you'll find contact information. I'm still in need of a replacement cylinder head and would appreciate hearing from you if you are still willing to sell me one. Thank you.
  8. Most definitely. I PM'ed you yesterday with my contact info. Thanks!
  9. Yes, both heads have visible cracks between the ports. The guy at the shop agreed that these were not a problem. The pressure test revealed a crack elsewhere on the left head. He said that he could attempt to repair it but it would most likely end up costing more than it was worth.
  10. Here you go. Underlined on both. By the way, I plan to send the remanufactured head back in the next day or two. I paid what seemed to be a good price of $125 plus $21 shipping. The seller told me that it is part of a lot they had acquired in a bankruptcy sale and this is why the price was so low. If anyone is interested in it, let me know.
  11. Hello All, I have an 87 GL-10 wagon, non-turbo. It was leaking oil and coolant in a pretty bad way and I've decided to rebuild the engine. I've got the engine pulled and have removed both cylinder heads and had them pressure tested. The right side was good and I had it resurfaced. The left head is cracked and the shop where I had it tested recommended not trying to repair it. So I've been on the hunt for a replacement. I found a remanufactured one listed on ebay which, according to the seller, came from a Loyale, but would fit my non-turbo engine. The seller only had one picture posted, which was of the side to which the cam housing attaches. I could see some small differences, but seemed to have all holes in the same places. So I went ahead and bought it. Upon receiving it a couple of days ago and comparing it to the one I'm replacing, I discovered that the replacement has a dual intake. My original has a single intake. The seller has already sent me a return UPS label to ship it back and will refund my purchase. So, back to finding a raplacment. I'm learning as I go on this, and up until now, the only questions I've been asked as I've been looking for parts are, engine size (1800 cc) and turbo or non-turbo. As I've been searching today, a couple of sites have asked more specific questions, which (please forgive my ignorance) I'm not sure about. How can I tell which of the following I have? 2-barrel carburetor MFI TBI Based on the =FI= on top of the intake manifold, I'm thinking MFI. But just want to make sure... Thanks in advance.
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