Godsmulligan

Just broke my windshield trying to get it out. I'm done for the day

It could also be the fan brushes. I had that happen on a wagon of mine Mcguyvered it for over a month because I didn't have 5 bucks to spend on the part. When I finally got the money, I ran to pick one up, only to find they were 15 cents. They are not the funnest to get to.

I'm still weary on clear coats I've seen to many flake off from factory paint jobs. edit* I knew laquer paint dried dull, but I thought acrylic laquer was something different. Last time I bought automotive paint, over a decade a go, they didn't even sell laquer anymore. Might of just been the paint store I was going to. Anyway yeah, Laquer, paint, sand and clear. My bad.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107695-brat-red-neck-trailer/ And boom goes the dynamite...

I wouldn't use a clear coat unless you plan on putting a thick coat on wet sanding it smooth then capping with clear coat. sometimes clear coat doesn't adhear very well to the paint, and it flakes off. Your paint will already have a nice gloss finish, just buff it and watch it shine. Clear coat is really only for a showroom finish or turn a dull finish to gloss.

does anyone have picks of jump seats in the bare metal? I'm wondering if It would be to difficult to reproduce the metal part. The other part I have figured out.

Is it a tennis ball? Hard to tell without a picture. *edit - Lol, nevermind I see you double posted.

1 pint isn't very much, especially if it's already been thined. You will need more than that, but you shouldn't need a clear coat. Just make sure you scuff up the paint with scotch brite, to a dull finish. With as long as the paint job has been on the car, I would recomend a sanding and primer to lessen the chance of a paint reaction. If you paint it with just scuffing the paint the chance is very high you will get a reaction. The only time I scuff is when it was just recently painted and I missed something and had to repaint.

Yup, plug and play. I've changed mine and took off, just watch your temp. If it doesn't overheat in the first 30 min you're probably good to go.

The rain mocks me.

I think I'm done. whatever is wrong with this car is gonna cost more than it's worth.

I wouldn't replace the fan sensor if the switch is turning on the fan, not yet anyway. Track down the over heating problem first. Those fan switches can be spendy for such a little thing. Plus, I've seen guys bust off the fitting, usually on radiators that needed to be replaced anyway. here are some things you can do to check for a blown head gasket. 1. run a compression check. One cylinder should be noticeably lower than the rest. This doesn't always mean a blown gasket. It is an old car, it could mean a couple of things. 2. Your radiator will build up pressure, more pressure than a normal over heating car. I've had them blow the radiator cap across the shop when I tried to take it off 30 min after I shut the car down. 3 Oil may have a chocolate milk look to it. I've only had this happen once and I've blown a lot of them. 4. steam in your exhaust. Only happened once and it sprayed water out the crack in the exhaust manifold. you can always run with your radiator cap on loose to help keep the radiator from building up pressure. removing the thermostat also helps in this department. Definitely, check all the easy stuff first before you decide it's a head gasket. pulling the heads off these things is a pain in the butt. I ran with a blown head gasket for almost a year, loose radiator cap, no thermostat and 30 min to get wherever I wanted to go. Ah, those were the good ol' days.

Doubt it's the thermostat if you've found three in the trunk. It's more likely that he bought a new one swapped it out didn't work, bought a second one just to make sure, then took it out all together. The reason he hooked up the wire to your fan is because your fan sensor is out. Sounds like he already went through all the steps of trying to figure out what was causing it to overheat and came up with a blown head gasket so he pawned it off on you. Hope I'm wrong Check your oil for a chocolate milk color.

broke mine too don't feel bad.

thermostat fan sensor blown head gasket termites

This is kind of a weird topic and I wasn't quite sure where to place it. So, here goes... I've been doing some searching of the threads and there is not a lot on carpet replacement. There are a few ideas being thrown around but nothing to really go on. What I've gained so far is that you can get fitted carpet for a Brat on JC Whitney, but just the front part. I searched out some other Subaru models of the same year and couldn't come up with anything. My thinking was that a hatchback should have the same carpet, possibly even a wagon, not sure about an XT. If I could get the front and back for one of these models I could cut the back to fit the brat.This is the reason I posted this in retrofitting. Yet, there are other options when it comes to carpert that I would like addresed for the good of the Subaru Nation. 1. using carpet rolls. I'm scared it's goint to look like crap because I've never done it. Has anyone else done this? Pics? Tips? 2. Bed linner coating. I'm not sure if this look is right for my car since it's more for the occasional camping trip or driving across the pass in winter. Those of you that have done it, how do you like it? Pics? 3. Rubber matting. It's kind of a cross between carpet and bedliner but I'm not sure how it would look or fit right. I guess I could use a heat gun to mold it, I just don't want to spend the cash and then screw it up. Has anyone else done this, and once again pics? 4. What other crazy things have you done to replace your carpet? 5. let's not forget about what carpet will fit in what car. Let's make this the end all of carpet threads. Did you just roll your eyes at me? How dare you.

Glycerin? like the kind you put on your skin? could you use this on jumpseats?

Is there a place I can buy new weather stripping? Is it possible to rejuvenate old weather stripping? Or should I just buy generic weather stripping and try and make it work? Thanks

The rims are back on. Gloss black with anodized red. They look odd in comparison to the rest of the car, but eventually all the chrome is getting anodized red and of course the satin black. Painted the hood last week. I think I'm gonna start on the inside this week. Everything goes satin black with red highlights. kind of a twist on the 80's red and black. Almost had this thread changed to "Brat out of Hell"

too late, already started and everything is getting rattle caned, including interior (VHT vinyl and Plasticote) . just finished the wheels today. Plus I have a lot of body work to do and Plastidip doesn't sand very well. Thanks for the title change Baccaruda

Ok, I broke into it today. It's definitely not the timing belt tensioner. now It's blowing smoke like crazy. I think it's done. Did try the plug wire trick problem seems to be coming from number 1.

picked up some parts today. I've been keeping all the receipts in the glove box. The stack is getting pretty thick. Been doing some painting. pics to come soon...

I looked, and there before me, a pale horse. Its rider, Death, and Hell followed close behind. I want one.

If it keeps dying at idle when warm but not cold, check out your choke.

Just buy a guage, their cheap. You could be low on oil. I have a car that burns through oil and everytime it's a quart low, the oil light comes on when I stop. My brat measures a quart low on the dip stick with the recomended amount of oil. So either someone put the wrong dipstick in or the wrong oil pan. What I'm trying to say is, if the car is new to you, you might be getting a false reading on the dipstick. The stalling may not be related to the oil problem at all. It may just be a low idle which can be adjusted on your carburator.