travisriggle

Checked all the grounds and connections over the weekend, no change. I drained a little coolant from the radiator and marked the level on the over flow tank. After driving for about 10 min the level in the over flow tank dropped about the amount I drained. This means coolant is still flowing and the temp gauge on the dash is just wrong?

I am under the imprecation there are two temp sensor on this motor. The one I replaced has a triangular plug and was located on the water pipe running across the top of the block under the intake manifold. I believe the gauge sensor is on the top of the block next to the crack shaft position sensor and only has one lead on the top (assumable grounds to the block). Am I on track or did I replace the wrong sensor for my problem?

Thank you for your help. I am planning to take my car to a Subaru dealer for diagnostics however they need the car for 3-5 days, I can't rent a car nor have a loner car for the dealer for another couple of months (age related). In the mean time I am trying to limp this car along and not make it any worse. Over the weekend I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the engine is running better at temp, still will not idle or run when it is cold. Now the temp gauge on the dash is not correct. When the car is started the temp gauge moved to the "regular" position within 20 sec or so. The gauge will stay there 3 to 5 min then move rather quickly to off scale high. I opened the hood and the engine was not burn your face off hot. It has been running so I could not touch it but nothing to indicate the engine was over heating? I double checked the coolant level and the fans are cycling on and on like it is at temp? Can a car really over heat in 5 min when left over night and lows overnight where mid 40's?? your guess is better then mine right now.

Thank you all for your input. I have posted on two other forums and this is the only community that has responded, THANK YOU. Fairtax4me - I have been unable to find my warranty paperwork for my O2 sensor (still digging), don't recall what brand. And to the best of my knowledge this it the factory original timing belt. I looked for the engine coolant temp sensor on the car and I believe it is a 3 lead sensor, would this drive the temp gauge on the dash? If so, the operating temp has not changed.

Thank you all for the quick replays. I have been reviewing the data I have about the emissions and the CEL. The emissions was high in NOx, but just barley. When I pass the emissions NOx had only come down 10%. But the CEL print out that Auto Zone gave me is P0172 System to Rich, 1) High Fuel Pressure, Possible causes 1)Faulty fuel pressure reg, 2) MAF/VAF sensor faulty 3)Faulty HO2S Bank 1 If I'm not mistaking the HO2S bank 1 is the O2 sensor I replaced. I'm hopping the MAF = MAP sensor. Could be a fuel reg, only thing on their list I haven't replaced. I thought of a slipped timing belt, but the engine gets better and worse depending on temp, RPM and if the O2 sensor is plugged in or not. Would a slipped TB give the same symptoms all the time?

Hello all, I'm new to the forum, but need help. I don't wont to replace my Forester but I might have to due to the new emissions testing laws. Background: Bought this car in 2006 from a dealer with 60k miles. 4-cylinder 5 speed manual ("L" class) At 105k replaced the clutch Has run and preformed above and beyond for years, great MPG and other than the clutch no major repairs. Car now has 206k miles... 10 months ago failed emissions testing in Colorado for high Knox Got a check engine light after that for a P0172 System too rich. Replaced the upstream O2 sensor (before cat.), ran AMS oil injector cleaner, used premium gas, and passed emissions. Check Engine Light is still on for system too rich, idle is getting rougher by the week and has started to "bog down" when starting from a stop then suddenly finding it's power and surging forward. If i run the RPM up to about 3.5k and let the clutch out slowly it dose not "bog down". By "bog down" I mean the peddle is to the floor and it dose not go, engine has a 'putting sound' real dull like there is no spark. Shortly after the low end problem started things got worse. One or more cylinders started pre-firing and the car began to jerk front to back, changed gears and it happened again within 10 sec. Limped the car home and did some digging. Replaced the MAP Sensor and reset the on-board computer by unplugging the battery. No change, replaced plugs and wires, no change. On a suggestion from a friend, unplugged the O2 sensor I replaced 10 months ago, when the car is cold there is no change, still rough idle and still a wild ride. When the engine reaches normal temp, the idle gets better, still not factory smooth. The engine stops pre-firing but still cuts out ("boughs down") every now and then. Sorry for the log post but here is my question. I have been to Auto Zone and they provide me with the code P0172 and a list of parts to replace including O2 sensor, MAP Sensor, Fuel filter, Fuel ejectors and a few other things. I don't have the money to just go replacing things and hope it works. Can anyone point me in a good direction or have any ideas? My other thought is I have to get emissions tested again in 14 months and I have had some people suggest my Cat. converter is "burned out", is this related to the other problems I'm seeing or is this different? Thank you in advance. Travis