scubaroo84

Update time. It's been eventful to say the least since I last posted. I took her on a hand full of wheeling trips to the mountain over last winter including an over nighter that I slept in the back of the car. Unfortunately the phone that had those pictures had a melt down so I don't have any. I did however take it to the beach/dunes back in March for my birthday weekend. I trailered it down to Florence with my pickup so I could actually have some fun and ended up having too much fun and rolled her on the beach while doing really tight cookies. But I tell you what, the friends I was with were amazed at how good this car handled (until it rolled) it was like a go cart, I jumped it and rally the hell out of it and it just wouldn't quit. I pushed the car to its absolute limits, hence why it rolled. Even after it rolled we up righted it and my buddy towed it to the beach access, It had not been ran for half an hour. It fired right up and I drove it back to my truck. The only thing that kept me from still playing was the broken windshield and my core support pushed my cooling fan into the thermostat and broke the upper hose and the fan. It made it a half a mile back to the truck without over heating though. It's sat for months now. Trying to figure out what I was going to do with it. I pulled the lift off and sold it. Then the other day my buddy (who has a 3rd gen wagon) told me to turn it into a rally car so we can rally together. So here it is the start of the 3rd build I've done on this car. The plan: build a bare-bones budget rally cars. No bells, no whistles and barely even street legal (for winter fun if it snows or I want to show off any other time of year). No hood, no fenders, half doors for the summer, cutting the back off to make a four door brat but I'm welding the rear doors shut. No dash. Custom wiring harness. Trailer lights front and rear. Roll cage. Wider offset wheels with smaller tires. Custom front fenders. Custom switch panel, fuse panel and gauge setup. I found a gm style aftermarket Guage will work for the fuel level and I will be using a gps for the speedo. Here are some pictures, because what's a roll over story without pictures?! My tow rig: 98.5 Ram 2500, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5 inch lift on 35's, 4" down pipe with 5" straight piped from the dp back. After the roll Here are current pictures of it

I had one in my car with a fuse panel behind it. I'm redoing everything though as I'm building my car into a bare bones rally car so I'll be building a new panel setup.

My ducting is fine as I checked it when I had evrything out of the dash. The blower motor is loud in high. Just doesn't have a lot of air flow no matter what vents it comes out of. The heat itself is great. Just not much airflow and since this winter in pnw is "supposed" to be really bad I want to make sure my car will warm up inside quickly when I crank the heat.

Haven't been on in awhile. New job and other projects and I was trying to sell the scubaroo. BUT I decided to keep her. The rings on 1 and 3 went bad and was burning tons of oil. Bought a short block from forest (turbosubarubrat) and out my ported heads on it. Took the turbo off. Still running the spfi. Has much better low end torque but not nearly the top end it did with the turbo for obvious reasons. I installed a factory roof rack that I also got from forest. I got her all registered so now she is my daily again. I have to replace the alternator but the one forest have me is a different model maxima alternator than the one I had so I need a longer belt and extended the tension bracket forward. I'll eventually build a bracket for a gm 120amp unit. Still have to install things I had taken off when I was gonna sell it. I did a harness tuck in the engine bay. The headlight harness is in the fender now and the spfi harness was stripped down more and I combined the wires to one connector to the intake and stuffed the excess harness in the ammo can. The maf and dizzy wires go under the intake. Before tucking the harness After The loom that I took out after thinning the harnesses and shortening Fog painted my ea81 red, blue and silver. I wanted to do something different.

In wondering if there is a better blower motor that can be installed in my 84 wagon with either some or no modification that will fit behind the glove box. Mine just doesn't put out the air that I'm used to in my gmc safari and its starting to get colder and if it snows this year I plan on many trips to the mountain and want to keep the whole car toasty. I've already installed some insuslation in my car. I'm wondering if there are any other subaru models that have a better higher flowing motor or if anyone has swapped one from a different vehicle manufacturer. Thanks for any help. If no one has done anything like this then I might try to find a feasible solution.

A big group here in Oregon that I have done a flag run with before in support of our troops and veterans is running a canned food drive to collect food for veterans in the t-51 unit at the veterans hospital cancer treatment center. I thought itd be cool if we could get some soobies together to join the flag run. I missed the most recent flag run last weekend due to rebuilding my engine but I'm going to the next and was wondering if any other soobs would want to go. I though a little convoy of lifted or stock soobs would be cool in a crowd full of trucks and jeeps. Here's a link to the Facebook page if you'd like to look at it for more info or join the run. https://www.facebook.com/events/1635308490071504/

Ok now for an update. new fuse panel Wiring it up Switch panel installed Blue moon seasonal tap handle shift knob The interior minus my second park brake Extended strut rods My turbo setup. Not very clean but it works. Now for some pics out and about. And some videos my deq exhaust all 2.5" turbo back, new cat and obx resonator, 4" mbrp tip. Screamer pipe, the vent was a bad idea that's why I went with a mini stack. The new exhaust. 2x6 tube tip and gutted cat and obx resonator. Deceleration video and going under a bridge Getting on it in second and 4wd so I didn't spin the tires. can't remember how fast I was going started at about 30mph listen to the turbo flutter when I downshift to second. Well that's all I have for now. Enjoy! Feel free to ask any questions.

Sorry for the late reply. my computer has been giving me trouble and showing it's age so haven't updated it in awhile. I'm on my phone now and will try and post new pics tonight or this weekend. I've been busy. Got new tires on. Got a trip permit but then I think I busted another driver front axle. One thing is for sure, it's not very street friendly. It will spin both front tires if you give it enough throttle to get into boost. Even at 3psi they will break free and they have good tread. Extended my strut rods an inch installed a hood stack and rerouted my screamer pipe through the hood. It passed deq with flying colors to took the good cat off and put a gutted cat on amd made a side exit exhaust. Sounds gnarly. If any of you have instagram my username is project_Scubaroo I have all my updated pictures and videos on there. Thanks for all of the interest! It's been a fun slow process. Forest, your hatch is looking good!

2.5 inch is too big for a stock engine. I have a turbo and other work done and I run a 2.5 exhaust. The bigger diameter exhaust the deeper the tone. I had 2 inch when I was n/a and it worked just fine with a flowmaster.

Do you have the vacuum line for the heater box hooked up? If not that's probably your problem. The recirculation vent is normally open and vacuum holds it closed. Had this problem in my car on the mountain, always fogged up but would roast you out of the car. Turned out it was recirculating the interior air. Should be a vacuum hose on the passenger side going through the firewall.

If it does that it probably is the boost sensor for the ecu. You can run the wastegate hose straight to the Turbo compressor for now so the wastegate will still work. What the flutter you are hearing is turbo flutter, your wastegate isn't opening so it's over boosting and you have more boost in the intake than normal causing the air to push backwards against the compressor wheel when the throttle snaps shut. That's not good for the turbo. That's why most cars have a blow off valve or bypass valve to release boost pressure. Is don't think the ea82 had a bypass valve although I could be wrong. the wastegate only has a 7lb spring so it's not very much boost. But I've had my car spike to 10 psi before I fixed it. Try and find the part in a junkyard or jb weld the nipple back on it.

Wired up my piaa back up lights and figured out why my cargo light wouldn't work (blown fuse) which was the last thing I checked. also decided that since I rarely have anyone in the back seat and have to have my front seat all the way back because I'm so tall it only leaves about 4 inches behind me for leg room so I took the rear seat out. I have a cargo platform I've been thinking of building that will cover my on board air compressor and be a sleeping platform for camping. Don't worry dink26 with my Lift my wagon outgrew 2 of my jacks and both of my jack stands. I had to go to my big behemoth jack since I don't have a hi lift jack. I also put the stock tires/wheels under the back tires since I only have one set of ramps when I did my tranny swap To give enough room.

Crazyeights disregard my last post. I wasnt even paying attention that you were the original poster.

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Here is the list of codes for spfi which I assume is what you have. Codes 34 and 35 seem to be common as the solenoids go out over time. 11 and 13 I would check the connection to the distributor and make sure it is good. For 12 there should be a fuse for that write I would check. It's hot only in run.

Jono my Screamer pipe is dumped, meaning it dumps to atmosphere so under vacuum the car is quiet but when under boost and the wastegate opens it's loud. It dumps right behind the font axle, just goes straight down off the turbo. That's right I used stock carb heads and stock comp ratio. I didn't mod the dizzy other than the mods to get it to fit in the ea81. I run non ethanol premium 92 octane In it so it doesn't detonate. even though it's over a dollar more a gallon, for a 12 gal tank it's worth it. I took it for a test drive yesterday with a friend to show him how much more power it has and constantly monitored my gauges. I had boost creep spike up to 9psi. It handled it fine with no knock. Still needs a bit more fuel. Boost enrichment system is next on my list. Just buttoned up the interior and interior wiring for now. you can see my build thread under "project scubaroo".

It's for the power to the purge and egr solenoids. I put 34 ohm resistors in place of them. Just haven't cleaned everything up yet.

I put a T off the oil sending unit port and I drilled a hole for the oil drain into the passenger valve cover. Welded an adapter fitting into the valve cover with a 90 going to the block then a 90 under the turbo with a 5/8" line going down into it. Skylar I have a couple. I put my ecu in an amount can in the spare tire well so the majority of my wires are in the engine bay. Except for power wires, fp power, tach feed and switched wires. here's the new cts. You can kind of see the oil drain on the back of the valve cover.

Already checked grounds again. Cts I had gotten was at 9000 ohms. But I went ahead and got the other cts that Tom had mentioned to me in another thread. Except instead of an import ignition brand cts I used a master pro to save a few bucks. I used master pro #2-9305 and connector bwd #28419A. I cut the pigtail off of the factory cts and soldered the wires to the new pigtail and the new cts goes right in place but uses a 19mm wrench. Went to start the car and it fired right up and it took less time for the idle to come down when warming up. I'll get some ohm readings from it when it cools down and fire it up and see where it's at as it warms up. Thanks again Tom for the part numbers and everyone else for the help! Luckily this is my project/toy and not my dd.

So that cts is about the same ohms as the factory one?

I know people will and probably already do shake their heads at how I did it but it works and I tried doing it on a budget. when I started I used the original engine that had 170k miles on it. Pulled the heads off and all 4 cylinders still had the hone marks in them. I didn't touch the short block at all. I ported and polished the heads and when I say I ported them I mean I took a TON of material out of the exhaust runners and bored it out to gasket match it. I gasket matched the intake side of the head and cleaned up casting ridges. Installed new valve Seals and gaskets and painted it. I used an ea82 spfi intake manifold and welded the weber adapter to it and welded the egr ports up. Jetted the webber up big: 155 primary 180 secondary and 60 double pump accelerator pump jet. I used an rhb5 vf7 off an 87 ea82t. Made my own uel header out of 2" pipe. Made a divider plate on the down pipe flange to run a 1" Screamer pipe off the wastegate and a 2.5" turbo back exhaust with new cat and an obx resonator. spfi fuel pump with a mallory 4309 rising rate fuel pressure regulator. I couldn't get enough fuel through the weber under boost so took the carb off and went spfi. Bolted all down and got it running na. Hooked the turbo up with the maf on the intake side of the turbo and the turbo blowing through the throttle body. It runs great just can't find a good coolant temp sensor so it's having issues starting. I run stock 7psi through this setup and can roast the tires into second gear. I'm going to add a cold start injector into the boost pipe before the tb for a second injector under boost. it will be hooked up to a boost switch to turn it on and flow will be regulated by a fuel pressure regulator. The spfi handles the boost just fine but at the top of second and in 3rd and 4th it runs stoichiometric (14.7) as soon as the computer figures out how much air is flowing through the maf. Other than that it provides enough fuel as you enter boost but like I said as soon as it figures it out it dials it in to run (efficiantly). Was it fun to build? Yes, as I've always wanted to build a turbo engine. Was it worth it? Kinda. Was it easy? No, not really. If I had the money to do a full blow crazy build on one with stand alone efi managment, would I ? Heck yeah! Its all in what you want. I sourced my parts and figured out how much it would cost First. Weighed my options and still went with it rather than an ej. Like I said I'm stubborn and I like to play mad scientist and experiment with things just for the hell of it even if people think I'm crazy.

I built a turbo setup on my na ea81 and it really scoots with big tires on. But I redid the engine. It's a fun car. Is it sti fast? No. But it's easily twice as fast as when it was na and I'm running 4" taller tires than stock. but mind you the heads are different and I have put a bigger cooling fan on. As soon as the fan turns on the gauge drops drastically. But with the money I have into this engine /turbo setup I could have built a ej engine and swapped a 5spd for the same price. But I've always wanted to experiment with a turbo so I went ahead and built it anyways. Just because I'm stubborn and didn't want to go mainstream just yet with an ej.

Yeah, it was isuzu not suzuki. I couldn't remember which one.

You also have to remember that the axle shaft sticks out and the axle is what holds the hub and rotor on. I've thought of this myself. My uncle said he thought he ran into a guy one time with some suzuki locking hubs on a subaru. What suzuki and how he did it, my uncle didn't know. The main thing is getting past the axle nut. If you could machine the inside of the hubs diameter out a bit and make new spines then make sleeves that go over the axle and one that goes into the hub and make some kind of locking ring that goes on the outside. Only problem is it would be metal on metal and you would need to install a bearing. I would look for IFS knuckles from an 80's jap pick up with manual hubs and see if they can be adapter. Ie: bolt the bottom ball joint to the control arm and bore out the top ball joint hole if necessary to install a strut. But then you need hybrid axles and the list goes on. Good luck.

Well I got it started with another cts. But it still didn't want to start with the start signal wire hooked up so I disconnected it. I warmed up the engine and the idle surges about 50rpm or so and it has trouble starting hot now.