scubaroo84

It works and it also roasts the hell out of the tires in 1st and 2nd gear. I have found the tbi system to be very forgiving in the air/fuel part of it. Although it goes stoic (14.7) in 3rd and 4th after it realizes exactly how much air it's sucking in but it riches into the 12's and 11's in 1st and second gear. I will be installing a cold start injector from a 91 camry in the boost pipe right before the tb unit for extra fuel under boost. Off boost it drives like a normal car, under boost it drives like a bat out of hell. Look up project Scubaroo in the members rides section. I updated it I think yesterday with a video from the rear seat facing forward of a 10mph rolling start and roasted the tires.

Hooked a different cts up and the battery to the charger since I've been at this all day. In the meantime here is my turbo setup as of last night. Blue tape was just to hold it in place till I get a coupler.

Got 2 cts from the junkyard. Gonna go home and swap one. I'll post a pic of the turbo setup when I get home.

Yeah the two prong cts with the light green connector. I was wondering why the iac was stI'll on when it was warmed up. Guess that's what I get with junkyard parts. Oh well. Thanks for all the help, Ill go retest then head to the jy and get another one.

The cts will cause it to not start?

I know it has good vacuum I have a vac/ boost gauge. It pulls 20in/hg at idle. BoBoth boots are tight. Iac hose is tight. I checked the cts, came out to 36,100 ohms.

I actually went out and checked spark after I posted this. Spark is getting to plugs, nice bright spark too. I know it's not that. Checked iac was opening by turning ignition off, couldn't blow through it, turned ignition on, could blow through it and here air in tb. Grounds are the factory ground on the intake. I'll check the cts. I'll look around for the resistance unless you know it and could tell me so I know what to look for. I have an electronic fuel pressure gauge hooked up to my old resing rate regulator but the regulator is backed out and on the return side because my return wasnt long enough to get to the tb. I just haven't gotten my other roll of fuel line out of storage to make a longer one. It does spike when the connectors are connected to about 10psI but it's not very accurate since it's on the return side. I spliced the spfi pump connector with the one off the carb pump when I went turbo with the carb. So it uses the original fuel pump ground.

About a week ago I did the spfi swap on me ea81. Everything was off of an 88 dl with a manual tranny. I also have an extra 93 ecu as well. I swapped my tranny out for a different one on tuesday. Seems after I did the swap it was getting harder to start. No I didn't mess with any electrical connections other than the tranny harness connector. When I first got it going after the spfi swap it would barely rotate and fire right up, faster than some new cars. After the tranny swap though It would rotate a few times then fire as I let off of my push start button. It kept taking longer to fire and would do the same thing, as soon as I would let off the button it would fire. I have my starter push button hooked up to a relay the start signal ecu wire (light green one) is hooked up to the push button. Now it won't start at all.. it has fuel, I know that. The fuel pump runs when you attempt to start it and the throttle blade is wet when you take the intake off. I've checked: MAF- good voltage. Good ground continuity. Signal wire voltage changes when you blow into it. coil- battery voltage on both sides of the coil. The bracket is grounded good and the transformer deal has voltage to I think the black wire. Other wire has ground continuity. air control valve- has voltage to black/white wire. Coninuity to ecu plug for ground signal wire. I also cleaned it when I turned it around for the swap. Rotor screw is still in and rotor is tight. Cap is good. spark plugs are a couple weeks old. No codes except when green connectors are plugged in. Which is 34 for the egr. I just got resistors to put in place of it. It fired up this morning after some cranking then gradually went to nothing. What am I missing? From what I've researched the ecu needs crank angle signal to keep fuel pump running. If you give power to the start signal wire by itself you can here the fuel pump pulse. Fuses are good. I don't have the neutral switch wire hooked up but that never stopped me before. It originally started doing it with the silver ecu so I put the black one back in yesterday. I'll go swap them again to make sure. Like I said its been running like a top before the Tranny swap. And for all testing I disconnected the turbo from the intake. Ran fine with it before. Thanks for any help.

If this could be done that would be awesome. I just did spfi on my ea81 and would like to read the manual.

Saw a brat on cops once.

What are you gonna do with the gl10? More specifically the turbo stuff?

Ok havent updated in awhile. Been busy on it. Ill write out a summary of what ive done then post pics. Got a used tranny from Forests hatch that i will be putting in tomorrw. I went ahead and went spfi because i just couldnt get enough fuel through the weber for the turbo setup. I also got some six lug hubs from Forest that I installed and put my big wheels back on. Made a switch panel fro all of my lights, radio, cooling fan and when i get to it a rear heater because my rear window defrost doesnt work and it fogs up really bad when it rains. I moved my radio to my glovebox. Got that installed today. Hooked my Kicker 6x9's up in the cargo area. Sounds great. Hooked my spfi up to my turbo after first getting the spfi running on its own. Will install a second injector later on but the spfi handles 7psi just fine and it has an amazing amount of power. Plus it just sound cool when my dumped wastegate opens. ok now onto some pics and videos. Getting the spfi hooked up Hooked up to the turbo. You can kind of see i used a ammo can to house the ecu in the spare tire spot. First start with spfi After i got it ironed out. Actually sounds like a subaru now and not a tractor. My fix for the iac valve so the hose doesnt kink Yesterdays drive. Need better tires. Little video of the interior Six lug hubs and and big rollers back on What a beast

Subscribed. I wanna see this madness when its done!

It should. I put those hubs on with my tires. I need to get some more lug nuts since i have mismatched ones on there now. The tires im running right now are just rollers. They have barely any tread left. Which is why i only take them down the road and back for test runs.

That's what I would do. I put a turbo on a non turbo engine. I ran my coolant line from the wp to the turbo then from the turbo to my heater inlet. Nice and toasty;)

Finished my spfi and hooked my turbo up to it. Took it for a test drive, didn't run lean and had boat loads of power. Couldnt keep the tires from spinning though under boost.

I got the spfi off an 88 dl with a black ecu I got a second ecu from a 93 gl with a silver ecu because trouble shooting with the fsm told me the first ecu was bad. After replacing the tps is works fine. I installed the setup on my 84 gl wagon. You can find my build thread in the members rides section. I havent updated it in awhile. The original ea81 has ported/polished heads, new gaskets and valve seals, I built a turbo header with a ihi rhb5 turbo off an 87 wagon. Originally I had a blowthrough weber 32/36 but couldnt get enough fuel through it under boost. (Just needed huge jets). I will try hooking up the turbo and run about 4psi once I get the spfi buttoned up. Here's a pic from this morning. I will be cleaning it up but I was trying to get it running first.

Here are a few of mine. The first is with a weber, gutted cat and a flowmaster. Idk what series flowmaster though. This one is with my turbo and an open down pipe This is last night after I installed my spfi. Custom uel turbo header I built. 2.5" turbo back exhaust with new cat obx 18" long resonator and a 4"mbrp tip. Turbo isn't hooked up to the intake yet.

I found a 34 ohm resistor on ebay but they're a pack of 100 for $6.75. I don't need 100 of them but I bought it anyways. Maybe I can find another project that will need some reistors. I hooked up the o2 to the data logger output both the narrowband + and the negative since I figured the ecu is probably putting out voltage to the o2 sensor and neither worked, the car bogged a few rpm but the afr gauge didn't change. It idles lean right now 16-17 afr and when trying to drive up my driveway hesitates and goes super rich 11-12afr so I'll just spend the $16 for another o2 and get another bung. Thanks for the help guys.

Sweet thanks for the input. If they're both 34 then the egr was bad anways. Now to find a resistor.

It probably is just the water pump. My mom's Taurus had the same problem, it weeped and would get hot when driving. Replaced it and it was fine. The other thing you can look for is a sticky thermostat. If it's only opening half way or partially that could be a problem too.

A bad water pump can cause it to overheat. Try and flush the radiator again. Any kind of blockage in the radiator could cause it to overheat under load but not at idle due to more heat when the engine is under a load, ie driving around.

I just did the spfi swap on my ea81. Got rid of my weber and will be taking the turbo off as I couldn't get enough fuel through the carb under boost. (Possibly see in the future if I can make it work with spfi. Anyways, after ironing things out all day and finding a bad idle switch in the tps was my cause for not starting I got it running and it runs and sounds awesome. Runs way better than the weber did. Only problem is I have code 34 (egr solenoid) I have the purge solenoid and the egr solenoid hooked up near the ecu (pulled the wires out of the harness and spliced them closer to the ecu for less cluttering in the engine bay). Purge valve works fine, I read I can put a 35ohm resistor in place of it to trick the computer. What I need is the resistance of the egr solenoid, what it is actually supposed to be. I pulled almost 9 ohms from it but since the ecu is telling me there's a problem with it (I know the ecu is vague with its code) I would like to know what the resistance is so I can put a resistor in place of it. Another thing, how does this solenoid work? I pulled it apart and found there is a needle kind of like in a carbs needle and seat and am wondering if vacuum has to move that needle to stop the code. If so I'll just hook a vac source to it for now. And one more thing. I have a glowshift afr gauge that has a control module with data logging output. It has a narrowband+ (0-1v), wideband+ (0-5v) and a common - for both. Oreilly's says our o2 is .2-.8v. Does anyone know if I could hook my computer o2 output up to the narrowband + for the computer since I already have a brand new o2 sensor in there for the gauge? Or will I have to get a narrowband o2? I know they're cheap. Thanks for any help!

They mean you need to pull one of the rear axles out when driving on pavement. If you don't it will bind up the outside tire around corners causing the tire to chirp and can break an axle. I welded mine up and can tell you that it binds even on the slightest of turns. When you corner in a car all of your wheels are rotating at a different speeds, that's why differentials are normally open unless they have a lsd or some other locking device. It's not hard to pull an axle. Most people say to pull the passenger side, jack the car up (I do it under the rear diff) and pop the roll pins out of each side of the axle and remove it. You can either reinstall the pins every time you put it back on or put small nuts and bolts through the holes or I've heard of people using baling wire, just to keep the axle in place. Not that it will fall out anyways unless you do some hard core flexing.

I ported and polished my heads on my turbo ea81 build. I just smoothed any casting flash in the intake runners I did the majority of the work in the exhaust. I opened the exhaust ports a ton and gasket matched them. With a stock rhb5 turbo and a weber it would spin the stock tires in second gear if you punched it around 25mph. That was also before tuning and not havin enough fuel. Haven't driven it in awhile with the 235's on it as I've been doing wiring. even before the turbo was installed it had more balls than stock.