scubaroo84

So here is what I did, first I wanted to be 100% sure it was actually opening all the way when I floor it. I took the carb hat off and pushed the pedal to the floor, the secondary only opened about half way, after some adjustments I got it to open completely. Uncapped the vent line and checked timing 12* still. Took it for a very short drive down my road and got it up to 40mph and floored, at wot it didnt sputter but it didnt run perfect either let off to about 3/4 throttle and it would sputter back most of the way out of the secondary and it ran great and got up pretty quick. I did notice since it has a gutted cat and a few exhaust leaks that under wot after I let off it smells extremely rich so im thinking that when the secondary opens its getting too much fuel. Im not sure if the PO who put the carb on got it specifically for an ea81 or threw one on that was for a different application and maybe has bigger jets in it. Ive read on here of people with lifted ea81's with a weber getting close to 30mpg, the best ive ever gotten was 26mpg and mine is stock height and tires.

Thanks for the responses. Firstly whenever I open it wot im driving and already have it open more than half throttle. I will look into the return and vent line and see how it does. Ive never had any problem with losing power it actually accelerates decent enough on the highway but nothing like the HO 4.3 in my van. The weather cleared up so I will go outside and tinker with it. Ill report back later.

Thanks for the replies! Bratman2, its actually a wagon so where would the primary filter on that be? Im assuming in a different location as the fuel lines run inside the cabin. It does have a 3 nipple filter under the hood. Loyale2.7turbo, I read on here that with a weber you can adjust timing to about 12* base which I did. The PO had it at 15*. I had adjusted it to stock 8* but it didnt have the get up and go like it does at 12. I will retard to 8* and see what it does. This isnt my DD anymore so it may be a few days till I get to it due to weather and its not top priority.

I did a search and read some posts but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. have an 84 gl ea81 with a weber 32/36 dgav that was installed when I got the car. The weber wasn't tuned properly so I tuned it and it ran much better, I thought when I got it that it was awful sluggish when I'd floor it. Come to find out the bottom of the gas pedal was bent and didn't allow for the secondary barrel to open at all. I fixed that and had much better performance, the only thing is, is that upon wot when its warm it sputters and hesitates and wants to bog. I have a vacuum guage and when it hits below 1 inch of vacuum (almost wot) it starts to sputter and when it hits 0" of vacuum it wants to fall on its face. Its done it since I got it back in may but I didn't really pay no mind as I don't often accelerate that heavily. I did make a carb hat and have a cone filter on it which isn't the problem as it did the same thing with the stock weber filter. What could this be? I've done a full tune up on it, it pulls 20" of vacuum at idle and gets me about 23mpg (kind of heavy foot) has a msd blaster 2 coil that was on when I got it. No emmisions equipment and a gutted cat. To me it seems like its lean, is there a fuel strainer in the tank on the fuel sending unit before the pump? I'm wondering if maybe that might be clogged. It has a clear plastic filter under the hood and looks fine. One other thing, the tank vent line that t's with the filter, what should I do with that? Its blocked off right now and when you pull the fuel cap off on a warm day you can hear the pressure release. Just leave it? Thanks for any help!

Ahh yes. For some reason I was thinking of manual locking hubs on a truck and remembered after I posted that the rear doesn't have manual locking hubs. Ill check for slop in the driveshaft.

Gloyal- when i have the money i will contact you for a 4spd. Northwet- the washer is on correctly. I will check the troque on the nut again when I have time to see if anything loosened up while driving (maybe something preventing the shaft all the way through and has worked its way loose some after driving). Ferox- ill have to check the rear axles but they don't click and the boots are still fine. Could that really cause this problem even without engaging 4x4? Could it possibly be the hill holder? I know my rear right drum is warped so could it just be hanging up and causing the shudder? That seem like a fairly reasonable assumption since it would be uneven contact and it does it more when I'm a hill and the hill holder is engaged. When I have time I will mark the hh adjustment and take the cable off of the clutch fork and see if it stops. Thanks.

Well when I have the money I will get some new mounts. I will look more into other things that cause the shudder at 65. I haven't had to drive on the freeway much lately so that isn't much of a concern, more so the shudder from a stop. I actually pulled the cv axle off that wagon in foster. I suppose on a weekend I could go in there and pull it and see what's good and how everything works. Once I can get a full visual it will be a lot easier for me to do it to my own tranny. As for how I tell the speed. I used a gear calculator and wrote down many various speeds in different gears at different rpms that I keep on the top of the dash. I have it memorized fairly well now. The only thing I don't like is not having a trip meter. Id like to see what fuel economy I'm actually getting. It has a weber 32/36 dgav. Also for ride quality it rides great. It handles better than anything I've ever driven, it has decent get up and go and isn't very bumpy on or offroad like my truck. Thank you guys for the replies. You have been a big help trying to figure whats going on.

Thank you for the advice! The mounts do look worn and there is way too much movement on acceleration and decceleration. Could it really be as simple as the mounts to cause such a violent shudder? It shakes the whole car. I would love to do the 5spd swap, but right now I don't have the money to do so. The tranny has a new clutch, pressure plate and resurfaced flywheel along with new clutch cable so id like to get some use out of it before doing the swap. As for the speedo.. anyone got any suggestions? Does it just boil down to a new tranny? How hard is it to split the case on one of these and put it back together? Could I fix it myself? I've taken the tranny in my truck apart before but that is a lot simpler than this one seems.

I torqued it to 150ft lbs. Its pretty tight. I rotated the tires after doing the axle since it was time. I have a les schwab reciept for the tires from back in 07' and they only have about 12000 miles on them and still have plenty of tread. I thought maybe a seperated belt cuz that happened on my truck but the truck wobbled at low speeds so I know its not that. The ball joint wasn't real stiff but it wasn't really sloppy either. It was stiff enough to not wobble when you shake the knuckle so I don't think there is too much wear on it.

Thanks for the reply. the cable, yes it is screwed into the tranny with the tab on the cable going into the slot. Its the shaft with the milled out slot in the tranny itself that is no spinning when in gear (speedo drive). I find nothing in my FSM in the diagrams of what it looks like internally. The shudder, Let me back track on that and give some more info. Wednesday morning I took a buddy up to mt hood where his fuel pump went out the night before. There was a foot of snow up there from over night. My car worked in 4 HI fine in the fresh powder. We got his truck fixed and when we were coming down (from timberline lodge) to hwy 26 I went to shift out of 4 HI into 2wd and nothing happened. Pulled into the rest area and popped the hood. Had my buddy watch the shaft as I put it in gear in 2wd. Shaft spun but didn't go anywhere. Outer cv axle was broken and all bearings gone. Pulled shaft out and drove to my shop in 4 HI. I put the JY shaft in, and for the day, yesterday, it didn't shudder at all but after driving a bit it has started to shudder again today. I know the engine and tranny mounts are pretty toast, when I let off the throttle the tranny jumps around a bit. Did I just pick up a bad shaft and not realize it? it was the only ea81 car in my area. Could it just be a crap tranny? maybe something in the front dif? it seems to have way too many problems for only 120k. It does whine a little and sometimes it almost seems like its on the verge of grinding into gear. I should probably play with the clutch adjustment to see if it might be that (causing the near grinding).

Hey everyone, my name is Cody. Ive had my 84 GL wagon for a few weeks now and have had some issues. First the speedometer, the guy i had bought the car from said he put a tranny in with 120,000 miles on It and he broke the tip on the speedo cable. I bought a new one only to find that the old one was still working. I hooked the new cable to the speedo and my drill, speedo went up to 40mph (drill couldnt go any faster). Left cable out of tranny, with wheels off the ground started the engine and put it in gear and the speedo drive gear didnt move. I have an FSM but it has nothing on the speedo drive that I have found except how to take the speedo cable off or install it. In my truck there is just a plastic worm gear and a plastic drive gear in the tail housing, is the subie the same? and how do I address this? Second, at about 65mph (calculated with a gear calculator) the steering wheel shudders. It has manual steering. It also tends to wonder a tad as well and the shudder only occurs around 65 It stops when you slow down or speed up. Is the rack and pinion just going out? Third thing. I bought the car knowing it needed a front cv axle. starting from a stop it shudders really bad no matter how much you try to ease the clutch out. It stopped when I replaced the axle but now its back again. The axle didn't have any kind of play in it it is a jy axle, I didn't rebuild it as I don't have the money. The odd thing is it doesn't do it if the car sits for long periods of time (overnight) I thought maybe a rear main seal or front input seal leaking on to the clutch and causing it to slip? Sometimes it will jump when shifting from 1-2 as well, other gears are fine. Tranny is a dual range 4spd. Any help is welcome and any tips on things to make the car better are appreciated. Thanks