nobangmycar

Also if you get stuck in the future, my car is identical (but RHD of course!) and I can take the many pictures!

To answer your question, yes the early EA71 with external crossover should run the needle roller. My original engine that was external crossover from '78 did.

Yes, all EA71 engines in my garage have the needle roller spigot bearing, both early and late. These can be a real pain to get out if they don't come out in one piece! I have fitted a later EA71 to my '78 sedan with original 4 speed with no trouble, going from external coolant crossover to the later 'fat case'. Obviously not all EA71 run the roller bearing in the end of crank though like you have found. Bugger! Run a later 4 speed from late seventies car?

Stick with it! Lovely old bus!

Thanks for the reply guys! I understand now. I didn't realise you didn't have all the engines available over there. Personally I wouldn't do a turbo engine swap because I know it is a lot of work and I don't understand enough about them, but every the most common engine here is the 2.0 DOHC turbo and non-turbo. We have access to so much over here and there are so many of them on the road, from EJ15, 16, and 18, thru to the dreaded EJ25 with the H/G issues and the EZ30 (great engine, but quite long!). It has all become clear. The 2.2 is not very common at all here, but I might try track one down and learn a bit more. Cheers guys!

Can someone stateside please tell me why you guys always transplant EJ22's instead of using a DOHC EJ20 or 25? Why not EJ20T? Everybody uses the SOHC EJ22 and I just don't get it. Do you not have the other engines available over there? Do most American market cars run the 22 factory? Do you have some weird restriction on hp? We have so many turbo and quad cam engines lying about here it makes no sense to me why anyone would use the 22. Can someone enlighten me?

5mm. Perfect. Thanks for your help guys!

Me too. Fair call Gary!

I torqued the head back down with different rocker shafts on, and now the clearances are too tight and after backing off lock nuts it's very hard to turn square drive on end of adjuster. What size is this across the square? Is there a wee tool to make this easier? It's too tight to turn by hand until I get it backed off.

Time to give up I feel.

The 5W30 is 'thinner' or has a lower viscosity than the 10W40. Neither will cause more wear, one is just a little thinner. I would run a 15W40 or a 10W40 and you'll be fine. If you go too thin, you'll burn a bit and get a bit tappy when hot, if it's too thick it'll start with a tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tick, tick, t, t, t, brrrrrrrrr that we are all familiar with.

I agree with Ferox, get involved man! There is only one way to learn, and we are all here to help you when it turns to custard (and it does!). I get so much enjoyment out of fixing my old Subaru and it's so simple. Get a hold of the "How to keep your Subaru Alive" manual too, this is invaluable and also a great starting point. Sounds like the others are more familiar with emissions equipment than me, we didn't have emissions equipment fitted over here. Definitely seems like a CV is causing the clicking/popping sound, just remember to do up that hub nut to the correct torque!

Man that's cool! Very different to NZ coupes, we don't have those fronts on ours... If only I had a spare NZD$7846.00!

Careful though, if the smoking stops suddenly it may put on weight very quickly!