nobangmycar

Also if you get stuck in the future, my car is identical (but RHD of course!) and I can take the many pictures!

To answer your question, yes the early EA71 with external crossover should run the needle roller. My original engine that was external crossover from '78 did.

Yes, all EA71 engines in my garage have the needle roller spigot bearing, both early and late. These can be a real pain to get out if they don't come out in one piece! I have fitted a later EA71 to my '78 sedan with original 4 speed with no trouble, going from external coolant crossover to the later 'fat case'. Obviously not all EA71 run the roller bearing in the end of crank though like you have found. Bugger! Run a later 4 speed from late seventies car?

Stick with it! Lovely old bus!

Thanks for the reply guys! I understand now. I didn't realise you didn't have all the engines available over there. Personally I wouldn't do a turbo engine swap because I know it is a lot of work and I don't understand enough about them, but every the most common engine here is the 2.0 DOHC turbo and non-turbo. We have access to so much over here and there are so many of them on the road, from EJ15, 16, and 18, thru to the dreaded EJ25 with the H/G issues and the EZ30 (great engine, but quite long!). It has all become clear. The 2.2 is not very common at all here, but I might try track one down and learn a bit more. Cheers guys!

Can someone stateside please tell me why you guys always transplant EJ22's instead of using a DOHC EJ20 or 25? Why not EJ20T? Everybody uses the SOHC EJ22 and I just don't get it. Do you not have the other engines available over there? Do most American market cars run the 22 factory? Do you have some weird restriction on hp? We have so many turbo and quad cam engines lying about here it makes no sense to me why anyone would use the 22. Can someone enlighten me?

5mm. Perfect. Thanks for your help guys!

Me too. Fair call Gary!

I torqued the head back down with different rocker shafts on, and now the clearances are too tight and after backing off lock nuts it's very hard to turn square drive on end of adjuster. What size is this across the square? Is there a wee tool to make this easier? It's too tight to turn by hand until I get it backed off.

Time to give up I feel.

The 5W30 is 'thinner' or has a lower viscosity than the 10W40. Neither will cause more wear, one is just a little thinner. I would run a 15W40 or a 10W40 and you'll be fine. If you go too thin, you'll burn a bit and get a bit tappy when hot, if it's too thick it'll start with a tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tick, tick, t, t, t, brrrrrrrrr that we are all familiar with.

I agree with Ferox, get involved man! There is only one way to learn, and we are all here to help you when it turns to custard (and it does!). I get so much enjoyment out of fixing my old Subaru and it's so simple. Get a hold of the "How to keep your Subaru Alive" manual too, this is invaluable and also a great starting point. Sounds like the others are more familiar with emissions equipment than me, we didn't have emissions equipment fitted over here. Definitely seems like a CV is causing the clicking/popping sound, just remember to do up that hub nut to the correct torque!

Man that's cool! Very different to NZ coupes, we don't have those fronts on ours... If only I had a spare NZD$7846.00!

Careful though, if the smoking stops suddenly it may put on weight very quickly!

Glad you got it sorted. It's always a positive outcome when it is a simple fix like that! Great stuff!

Could you post some pics if you do continue with this swap out? I did an early EA71 to late EA71 swap in my '79, which was very easy of course but a later engine would have always been a better choice.

When oil is heated and put under pressure the viscosity increases. I know this sounds mad, but it's true. That's why the multigrade engine oil viscosity ratings are higher on the second number. There is very little difference between 5w30 and 10w30 oils of the same API rating, Dee2 is right. Normally more modern cars with hydraulic lifters (not the old OHV stuff I muck with) need an oil with a lower viscosity when cold so a 5w## or 10w## is good. Semi synthetic blend also a good idea as the quality of the oil additives are much better. Remember 'synthetic' is a broad term, all oil comes out of the ground. Synthetic oil is just chemically stuffed with to take out bad stuff and add in good stuff, instead of just refining and adding additives.

I had a similar failure once that turned out to be water pump as MilesFox just described.

Oh dear! What a mess! It could be coming from a lot of places, although the car struggling to crank is a bit odd. Hopefully it wasn't starting to seize from overheating and getting tight. My advice would be to definitely locate that leak before driving it any further and see what your problem is. You can pressurize the coolant system to force the leak to happen while the engine is not running and it should become obvious. A fluorescent anti-freeze could help in tis regard like the Valvoline stuff. Remember coolant will spray backward (and everywhere!) when you are travelling and will also drip from the lowest point when sitting so locating the leak can be tricky.

as above. I find the Gunk branded penetrating oil in the yellow and white aerosol really good. It also smells amazing!

I agree. The API ratings are also important. A 10w40 will be just fine. As long as the API rating (SM/CF for example) matches the standard required for your engine, you will be fine. Low Viscosity doesn't mean more engine wear at all, it depends on the quality of the oil, and the best viscosity for your temperatures and engine. You normally find that engines with tighter clearances in bearing shells etc run a lower viscosity oil. I have an EA82 with 281,000kms on the clock and I run a 20w50 with no problem, although a 15w40 or slightly less would be better. Hope this helps. I sell oil for a living, and am happy to help with your questions.

Ha! Very clever...

Hey Fella, Good to see more Kiwi's here. I'm in Edendale, Southland. Although currently if I took a photo it would be hailing sideways, good thing the Subaru is tucked up in the shed!

Am I correct in assuming by the photo of your engine it is the later internally cooled version? Can't quite see water pump and coolant lines properly.