CarpeNoctem

if you cab get your hands on a solenoid, rod and whatnot from the left front door you'd make my month. Cant beat hand delivery:D Saves me having to fight to make universal pats fit. The trunk switch too if one turned up. Should have mentioned mine is an 94 loyale wagon. It has the crap central locking. But t as I said ....crap. One central switch and a keyless system should be much easier to deal with. I could mount one on eachfront door but its extra wiring.

I've seen bits and pieces on the keyless situation but nothing complete. Like a list of components, stock wiring diagram with the aftermarket added in to it, and an install writeup. I may be missing it. So far I understand you need a RHD or aftermarket solenoid for drivers door Solenoids operate on a 3 wire reversing polarity setup positive one side locks positive from the other unlocks and a unified ground(i believe) except for the hatch which is a two wire setup It Seems like it would be easier to remove the central locking switch in the drivers door completely and replace it with a conventional one on each front door or in the center console to run all 4 doors, and another run off the same fused wire to run the hatch as a separate item (making an alarm systems hatch button useful in the process) and just pretend the old system never happened.

if the xt had a wasted motor that needed replaced it wouldn't be that bad, but if the intake heads and everything is missing that's gonna be tough. If you can find a dual port engine in a yard you could p[ul it and use your own bottom end I believe. but it'd be easier to just rebuild that motor and use it in th xt if you're going that far

it was leaking too fast for that. it was just an odd leak at the hose making it look like a case bolt was the source. I was freaked that it meant I might have to get it pulled and resealed. all is well now thank god

oops ea82. I replaced the hose and I'm going to be taking my daughter to school(late but hey shell be there now). let hope it was just that and it runs to get her home. that area can be deceptive with leaks. if it is the hose, then the leaks dont track the way you'd expect

hey guys need quick info I'm getting a coolant leak from below the hose that goes from the block to the thermostat body. it doesnt seem to be the hose though as directly below it was dry. All that's there is a case bolt. anyone had this come up before? if it's the case gasket leaking I'm pretty much donefore.

yeah because if the mechanical advance doesn't open, your timing will be off. timing being off on top of the cold etc could do it. Not sure it is your particular issue but it's possible. if it's not something you've maintained before it's worth doing anyhow. better mpg and power (power due to recovering loss).

Ah okay. Yea I was going to see if I can flip it so the stereo is on the bottom and put the cupholder up for just that reason. The install kits bolts are symetrical so it should mount upside down. And the new stereo is short front to back so I might have room. Its sd and usb, no cd so it takes up about a third less space

If there is a mechanical advance in the distributor you may want to check how freely it moves when cold. If it is siezing a bit when cold your timing may not be ramping like it is supposed to. Its a commonly overlooked item that can cause cranking issues until centriugal force finally overcomes rough operation

If it's cutting fuel at 3/4 throttle and has bad idle check and clean you MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner (use the right stuff it matters). I just had this issue and now it's MUCH better. Next I'm cleaning my IAC up and replacing the CTS.

Distance between shifter and radio??? Never heard of such a law. Noone would care here in vegas anyhow. No state safety inspections and cops generally ignore modified cars unless is acting stupid.

Sorry. Yeah should have specified 94 loyale.

Hey I havent pulled the stock radio out to install the new one but I was looking into the cup holder situation, and found these on ebay I'm fitting a scosche panel in there anyhow, so I can cut it to accept a second din if it'll fit. is it going to fit under the radio? or over? I know the tape deck is narrower than the radio, but don't know if the mountings are as well. also rear space could stop it. anyone know? i'v seen smaller half din ones from corollas, civics and ford tarus' that might work too if I can find one. (tarus has a coin holder like some civics but can be easily cut off)

Ah. Kind of an odd place to put it. Suprised its not in the little tool bag sitting in the cubby under the cargo area

Not sure because I don't have the bolts to check

Hey fiddling with the rear seat in the loyale today I noticed a matching carpet pouch snapped below the passenger side rear seat to the vetical section of floor just under the cushion. It had a hand drill syle bent allen wrench and a wire curved into a hook at one end inside. Anyone know their purpose?

take a pencil eraser to the contacts if possible (haven't looked at sockets) it'll clean the contact points like a super fine sandpaper (which is what an eraser actually is. A superfine sanding block)

looking into old posts the idle may be coolant temp related. haven't done it yet and the gauge doesn't read at all so I may not be getting any signal from it. another of tonights to do list items. also it looks like the cts could be an issue so that's getting done

hey the 93 loyale (spfi) is running and driving now, but it wont rev past maybe 3500-4000. if I give it any more gas it starts to lose power. vacuum readings are good (sitting at idle I don't have an on car gauge) Ignition timing set to 20* with timing light. if that weren't enough the idle is about 1300 cold and takes about 4-5 minutes to go down to a normal level and then it drops very suddenly and sometimes likes to bounce around a bit occasionally. I figure I need to take a look at the IAC valve and clean it up, but with how fast it drops it may need replaced completely. any thoughts? I'll be testing the tps and etc tonight trying to pin the reving issue down.

Hadn't got to it yet having oil pressure and idle issues that need to come first

Wonder wedge you're correct on the system design simularities. That's the reason for the solenoid to prevent actuation until criteria have been met.

Yes I have in the past had my own cars outside local regulation. Are any of them now? No. I test my own cars so should the dmv decide to take notice of it (even though it is allowed). My cars are all within regulations to even the most thorough inspection. I did that stuff BEFORE I worked as an inspector. I'm not a hippocrite like that. Go ahead and call the las vegas dmv emissions lab and have em pull me in. Nothing to hide. As for the person asking questions I said it was an option if he lived in a non emissions area.

Wonder wedge you and I have like minds. Though I admit a hatred for meth injection as its another constant purchase item. As far a cooling goes thing how old these motors are. How many people get the heads professionally cleaned to clear out the cooling passages in the hottest part of the motor where calification is most likely? That'decent boost. Nice thing about those toyota accesory mounted roots superchargers (which are availible in aftermarket too now being made in an frs kit) is they allow use of an intercooler as well. That gives oppertunity for air to air or air to water intercoolers. How much gain is there to be had from port work? I'd want to start with mpfi heads and have the ports done. I wonder if opening up the exhaust port outlet a bit and smoothing it out a bit would net anything. Unshrouding the valves massage the ports could fix the flow a good deal. And custom machine shops are low on work right now going into winter. A proper mandrel bent header with a low flow cat instead of swapping stock parts around. If someone welds an exhaust and an intake could be done easily and cheaply enough after having intake flanges cut or cutting the stock ones off an manifold (cut it free above the flange and have it milled to what you actually need). And then just but a gm tb flange which is easily had, as are the injector bungs. That gives better flow and removes the unneeeded provisions on the intake and gives room for better control as you can get various sized TBs that fit the same flange. I don't know if ARP makes bolt kits for this engine but I know they will let you order to your own specs. At least they did years back for mme on a couple occasions. A full new set of hardware would be nice and head studs would make in car servicing easier.

Really? How do you buy a flow matched "set" of 1?

no i meant look at other possible causes before blaming internal engine parts. so it has popped more than one filter? and it's only been doing it since you changed the oil?