CarpeNoctem

Awesome thanks! now I just gotta sort through old threads to get all the part numbers for my specific car before I call. of course. otherwise with a bad busing i'm making a new bushing with the center in the wrong spot. I didn't look at it's mounting do I really need to pull the diff? or can I just pull brackets out?

first on injectors I was using example of cost cutting. but still your values are way off 83lbs/hr 850cc injectors for highly modded engines $93.50 for a set of 4 while you'd need only 2 and they are available to purchase individually so it's even cheaper still. http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/850cc-ev14-genesis-350z-370z and those are much more high end than this motor could ever dream of handling no matter the mods. Now again. This was the original poster asking us to spitball ideas or "bench race" so he he could pick through ideas and make his own design based on the EA82 not any other motor. To come in and say "that'd be more expensive than an EJ" is pointless because it not what he asked for. he didn't as for EJ opinions he wanted ideas for EA82 motors. The point behind my layout was to use the engine to it's maximum potential (externally as i'm still getting used to subaru flat 4s) by giving it more power and the most throttle response I could devise while leaving cost as a non entity. Is it as gloyale put it "polishing a turd" ? Hell yes it is. Is an EJ swap more cost efficient and capable of more power much easier? again Hell yes it is but the name of the thread was "Ultimate EA82 build" not "what should I do for more power?" this marks my 66th post and I've seen more posts of people trying to force ej's where their not asked than my total posts put together. people know the ej is easier, people have it all over this forum to read. we don't need to preach it anymore.

Apologies "thedoctor" for taking care of that in your thread. It IS ultimately up to you what you do with your car. again, sorry for that.

Gloyale welcome to flaming at a new member you don't know about yet. [ ] i'm going to start with NON me sources because honestly though my words will be civil and language clean, auto forums have become so "clique-y" anymore somehow I figure this will be me getting banned which is a shame because (other than people who think long years on it means godhood) it's a very good forum and source of info. Yes you know these cars better due to length of ownership, but you don't know it all and you preach as if you do. Wiki Auburn university's Diagnostic Quarterly: The ABCs of EGR http://www.ag.auburn.edu/~parmega/efi/egr.txt autoshop101 .com http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf (pdf so not pasteable. middle of lousiana.gov emissions classes (any yes it argues mpg but there are varied ongoing arguments on this topic) NOW on to me 12 1/2 years in the automotive field Associates degree in applied technology (automotive) T.S.E.P. Internship Graduate (acdelco's private intensive training) 1G emissions inspector Former hot rod builder and lead tech for Gerner Design Former Bike builder for American Performance Cycle Former warranty department manager/tecnical support/R&D assistant/public relations in automotive aftermarket for Air-Zenith and that is aside from time working as a standard mechanic. YOU are the person who doesn't know what your on about. Just because I've had limited exposure to this particular engine and am open enough to ask questions doesn't mean I don't know the field. [/ ]

deffinetly sounds like an obstruction somewhere but I'd look at all other avenues before pulling the carriers its a pain on it's own but worse to find it wasn't the issue and have to redo it anyhow. have you tried a new filter? let's get some basics down first. Did it just begin doing this on this oil change? if so it's likely the new parts what oil did you use?

You need to reread the OP this was a (money is no object) theory on the possible applications of power on the EA82 motor. We all know (and god is it flamed enough on here) that a more modern motor has more capability of power. that is not what this thread is about. it's about what could you do (money aside) to an ea82 to make it perform. And a set of normal bosch automotive injectors can be had at any salvage yard and cleaned cheap... how is that more expensive than a full motor? I'm talking about motor cycle throttle bodies not TBI units. and actually a small GM ones would be easier than the bike ones and can again be had at a salvage yard, as can the coil pack. I could probably pick up the parts from any yard for under $40 and have the twin intakes made for around 200 from any decent metal fab shop. the only hard part is synchronizing the throttles and their are parts out there that do just that for running dual carbs for harleys.

just fill it with the current rubber in place? or remove everything first? what about the rest of the suspension bushings? does anyone have a source for them

that said you won't be running under false rich conditions so the engine is actually using the fuel to a better potential so you will be using less throttle to keep the engine at the same cruising speed the EGR system is made to operate at so you will infact be getting (slightly) better mpg.

it lowers cylinder temps by recirculating exhaust gasses into the intake causing a temporary rich condition (because of the amount of oxygen being displaced). the level it drops cylinder temps is negligible when considering component life. the reason for it isn't to keep cylinders cool it's to keep the cylinders just cool enough to prevent the formation of oxides of nitrogen or NOx. it does not reduce it even near any level the promotes longer engine life. that was never the purpose of the egr system

ditto! if you are arcing from coil to terminal, you have a bad coil wire or bad ends in it. it can't make it to the dizzy so it's going to the nearest ground it can. this is BAD for your cars electrical to have the kinda power surging into it, and bad for the coil. if you still have the old wires, swap it out with the new coil wire and recheck. otherwise return the wires for a new set

so in aftermarket adjustment if there isn't a provision I'd assume connecting it to the starter solenoid would do the trick as it is an easy source for cranking only power. I'm still learning these cars so I don't know if there is a better place in the ignition wiring tract that would be a cleaner install. but if it's cold start enrichment and it works at the solenoid at least you'd have it sorted out until you can find a better tie in point.

any chance you could snap a pic?

crazy heads aside. and leaving out engine specifics that are better left to those who know the engine better than I (subie newbie) I can make a few suggestions. keep in mind I'm in the naturally aspirated camp. well that or roots superchargers boost should be linear or not at all. I'll likely be argued with but on a wheeler I'd leave carbs out right from the off. they have angle limitations that injection doesn't. So allow me to propose a weird alternative. Dual intake with motorcycle throttle bodies and and regular automotive injectors and a megasquirt EFI system. this will require the fabrication of a trigger ring on the crank but it gives you so much in return. distributorless ignition computer controlled timing adjustable fuel tuning to replace economy minded tuning Dual intake replaces the old one and gives you the best throttle response possible. no more exhaust or coolant heat going through intake charge (i'd recommend phenolic spacers as well to keep intake heat down) Not sure I'd bother worrying about exhaust other than tossing the cat, which isn't needed on a wheeler. that is unless I wanted to get crazy. Then I'd probably run dual exhaust straight through the hood. saves you the chance of having water in the exhaust down below cause too much backpressure and cut the engine out. but also because I'm still 12 years old and it'd look cool . although I would personally still run it with a stock size pipe and small mufflers. the short length of the pipe will be a big flow increase as it is you don't want to run straight pipe like this or you'll have too little back pressure and reduce performance. Internal engine I leave to people with more experience as I said before. but you cal always run a small universal roots supercharger in the place of the A/C to both intakes and make it really fun if you beef up the bottom end. that would be my route because I hate turbos I don't like going in and out of boost. roots SC just makes it feel like a bigger motor because the boost is always the same no matter the rpm

That could depend on a few factors. Do you live in an area where emissions tests are mandatory? If so then an EGR valve is a needed piece of emissions equipment and will be expected to be there in operational order to pass. On the other hand, IF you don't live in an emissions testing area you could completely remove it as it is just another part to go wrong and cause vacuum leaks and stuck open/slightly open valves are a plague of rough running cars and robs power by directing exhaust gasses into the intake charge. in that situation you'll want to remove it's whole system which includes the EGR valve, the solenoid and the vac line. removing the EGR valve it's self will require a block off plate. I've never seen one for these engines but they are easy to make. Take an egr mounting gasket get a shop to cut some decently thick steel/aluminum to the shape (or do it yourself as it's not hard if you have the tools) drill the bolt holes using the gasket to mark them. apply the gasket and plate and bolt it down. viola you just removed a system that can cause driveability issues. As an emissions inspector in Nevada I have to look for these and fail cars that have em blocked off. so make sure you dont live in an area it's needed or aren't moving to one soon. it can always be replaced though. Most commonly tuned cars will have pre-made aftermarket block off plates like this Check and see if our egr valves are used by any other manufacturers that might have a more common aftermarket. we might have em available just because the gasket area and bolt pattern matches. For my own cars I use two gaskets underneath and a bit of coke can in between them with everything hooked up like normal and silicone in the nipple to clog it off. But that's because my system has to "appear functional" out here. before going that route you have to make sure your county doesn't do a "function test". which is basically just hooking a hand operated vacuum pump up to the egr with the engine running and seeing if the engine stumbles when vacuum is applied and the valve is open at idle (only supposed to open during low load/high vacuum times a.k.a. cruising). anyhow that's probably more info than you needed.

Just got it running. I have to keep it streetable as it's the new family car (single dad of two girls), but the looks will change. Planning a lift, better tires, roof rack with lights and tube bumpers. basically a street and trail car for camping excursions, trips to less accessible coves at lake mead etc. not going too big unless I do an EJ swap. It has to make it around town daily first and foremost.

My 93 loyale I dub it Lazarus (as in brought back from the dead)

I saw that years ago there was work on a group buy for polygraphite. is there any chance of another? The big one I know I need is at the front of the rear diff. it's visibly had it, but the whole car sways and rocks on clutch out/accel so I know it all needs done, now that Lazarus has been brought back from the grave.

I don't think I pumped up the HLAs so that may be it. I didn't run it long enough to warm up because of the miss. but that I imagine would affect both sides since both heads got disassembled, cleaned and replaced with all new lifters I'll "carb cleaner test" for vac leaks as well. A new thought is the motor was trying to run with missing intake lifters. there is a chance (though minimal) that enough oil got sucked past the rings that it clogged up the cat and is creating too much back pressure. the previous owner was trying to drive it like that so who knows.

Ok I had some time off of it due to family but now an update. New fuel tank Heads cleaned, valves cleaned, re-assembled with new gaskets and seals. New timing belts YET.......... No power from 1&3. I have spark I have fuel as evidenced by the fact it runs on 2&4. I am no longer dropping followers when it runs when the heads we're off I looked at the cylinders and saw no evidence of odd wear, broken rings, anything out of norm really... I'll do a compression test this weekend Valve timing is spot on from all I can see. Cam markers are 180 out from each other (bottom and top at timing mark). At tdc the 1/3 cam is up and out diagonally while the 2/4 is down and out diagonally) at tdc the ignition rotor is pointing at the #1 wire and the master cylinder. like this Yet a power balance test shows no drop in rpm from 1 or 3, but dies on 2 and 4 and it has a definite misfire. Only thing I can say is that when I advance the timing (rotate dizzy body clockwise) the rpm screams up. I'm hitting my head against the same wall over a problem I thought was licked.

crud! I was hoping for a cheaper alternative I don't have 130 to spend on em currently. I'm already buying a new tank because for the price difference of having it professionally cleaned I may as well. it sat for 8 years and the buyer before me just tossed cleaner and topped off the tank and gummed the valves so bad it was dropping the followers. I don't want to chance that again after cleaning and rebuilding the heads so I want it shiny clean before it runs again. guess its one thing at a time. as usuall

I'm getting WARWAGN

I have always loved rockauto. best prices and easy interface. But when it comes to our shocks their stuff is a freaking jumble. All i need is a set of cheap rear shocks for the 93 4WD loyale wagon. What am I looking at for a part number that is correct?

figured I'd jump in with a pic of the inline unit

that wagon rcrad4

Ok all i seem to see is pictures of lift with what they have on. What I'm looking for is something that looks more aggressive and has better trail capability than stock, without sacrificing handling or MPG too much. And no tire rubbing! This is still going to be a 90% road car. I'm looking at a 2-4 inch lift. what size tires can I run with each without rubbing? a little at full lock on a slant is one thing but otherwise no rub.