montermahan

Replacing HLA's only thing that worked for me.

In my forinstance, 2 times I have had intake manifold gaskets crap out. Luckily, they leaked to the outside of the manifold, it would of been just as easy for it to do it to the inside of the manifold without any signs of leaks besides the radiator going low. I will never use FelPro intake gaskets again, a little harder to find, but I will allways use OEM gaskets there.

Tried all the snake oil fixes, changed oil pump seals 2 times. stretched bypass spring. put in new o-ring's . The only thing that fixed mine was new HLA' 5,000 miles ago. Still quiet (so far)

thank's ferp420. I have had 2 different intake gaskets blow on me, I guess the last one was my fault, I used a light coat of super grey silicone on them and i guess it worked like a lubricant and one of the fel-pro gaskets broke in several pieces. I now put in a set that looked like graphite, but there was a metal core, and I used a light coat of copper coat on them. maybee I shouldn't use any sealant at all.

Inquiring mind want's to know? what is the little tab in the intake port of the gasket for?

A follow up. I done a complete overhaul, fun little engine to work on. But a new set of valves fixed the problem. I won't bash the people I purchased the rebuilt heads from (EBay), but I would recommend to them to put in new valves the next time, also I wasn't impressed they knurled the guides instead of putting in new ones. I sort ov got took. At least they resurfaced the heads. Vacuum is pulling steady 18 inches now. MM

DaveT, I ran into a friend that used to work for Subaru and he had a batch of of old gaskets and gave me an red o-ring about 1/2" wide-- 2" long and probably 3/32" thick. having never seen the engine apart, I hope it is the right one.

DaveT, I would love to get one from you. I don't know what it look's like because I havn't split block yet. It's the one that goes between block halves that is a water passage from one side to other. If it is what I need, would be glad to pay you what you think it's worth. Thank,s Monte

Does anyone know the part # or a place I can purchase one of these block half O-rings, or have one they would sell me. I have all the other gaskets to do an overhaul, and don't want to buy a complete gasket set to get one o-ring and I don't want to put the cases back together without a new one. Thank's.

Does anyone have a part # for the Cylinder Block O ring, or a place I can order one. I have everything for overhaul but that.

I am getting ready to do a top overhaul on my EA82. Is it possible to do the rod bearings without splitting the block?

I'm with you on that KiwiBrumby. I'm just grasping at straws here hoping for an easy fix. I am pretty much resolved to doing a top overhaul this winter with new spring's and valves. If it was in a car with a single muffler, I probably wouldn't give it much thought, but on a trike with dual shorty glass packs, the sound is fairly obvious. It surly acts like a lifter pumping up or a valve warping for a few minutes.

Dee2, I put a vacuum gauge to my motor. It runs around 17 cold, after reving it up for 10 seconds, engine misses and it reads about 13 vacuum, then after a minute of idling , vacuum goes back to 17 and the engine runs smooth. also engine runs smooth at idle after a 2 mile drive. Compression is 120 on 2 cyls, and 135 on two others. Topend overhaul scheduled this winter. Going by what jono suggested, I ordered new oil bypass springs in the cam tower as I have stretched them trying to get rid of a TOD (which 3 different times resealing oil pump didn't cure, but new HLAs did). I'm hoping the HLAs are pumping up is the cause, and I am going to 10-30W oil instead of the 15-40 I am now running.

I recently installed rebuilt head's on my EA82 in a Trike. Used new lifters. Started engine, ran perfect, but after reving engine @ about 2,500 RPM for 10 seconds, returning to idle, it run rough and I could hear hissing out of the exhaust (short dual glasspacks). driving it for a couple miles and it would idle fine, hissing gone. this would happen every time after engine cooled down. I pulled towers back off, installed old HLA's that worked fine befor headjob, put on timing belts and no compression.(I know you knew that). Pulled tower's again, bled down lifters and compression was good again, but still it start's and idles fine, just leak's out exhaust valves for a couple minutes after reving it up for a while. The head's had new seat's and guides and resurfaced, but the valves were reground. At first I thought the HLA's were pumping up or something, that's the reason I changed them out. I checked bypass valves in the towers and they were fine. Only thing I can guess, a couple of the valves were warped, grinding straightened them out, and they go back warped after a while, then straighten up. Yes, I poured solvent in the exhaust ports and not a drop of it leaked past the valves. A compression test was fine, I'm thinking about replacing the exhaust valves next. lucky the motor is very easy to work on out in the open on a trike. If this had been in a car, I would ov had a door kicked in by now.

I recently installed rebuilt head's on my EA82 in a Trike. Used new lifters. Started engine, ran perfect, but after reving engine @ about 2,500 RPM for 10 seconds, returning to idle, it run rough and I could hear hissing out of the exhaust (short dual glasspacks). driving it for a couple miles and it would idle fine, hissing gone. this would happen every time after engine cooled down. I pulled towers back off, installed old HLA's that worked fine befor headjob, put on timing belts and no compression.(I know you knew that). Pulled tower's again, bled down lifters and compression was good again, but still it start's and idles fine, just leak's out exhaust valves for a couple minutes after reving it up for a while. The head's had new seat's and guides and resurfaced, but the valves were reground. At first I thought the HLA's were pumping up or something, that's the reason I changed them out. I checked bypass valves in the towers and they were fine. Only thing I can guess, a couple of the valves were warped, grinding straightened them out, and they go back warped after a while, then straighten up. Yes, I poured solvent in the exhaust ports and not a drop of it leaked past the valves. A compression test was fine, I'm thinking about replacing the exhaust valves next. lucky the motor is very easy to work on out in the open on a trike. If this had been in a car, I would ov had a door kicked in by now.

This is a trike I built. The cooling arrangement isn't totally my idea, but it works great. It uses 2- 1200 Goldwing radiator's. They work great in all the hot condition's I have been in. They have the original fan's, which never kick on unless I am going slow in traffic, and they cool it down instantly. I'v put 30,000 miles on the used engine with no major problem's. I adapted it to a VW auto with the Kennedy adpator. It was a lot more work using the Subaru engine vs the VW, but well worth the effort.

Sorry for double post.

After about 2,000 miles I had an after market (napa) belt pop in two. A subaru mechanic/friend said to tighten the belt a little tighter than the spring tensioner put it. been going strong for 20,000 miles now. It was on the distributor side, he surmised the belt would jerk as cam went past TDC on the lobe and over the miles, it would give up. I don't know.

After the filter change, and it still dose it, I have been able on different vehicles, rev the gngine up a little with the air cleaner off, then put hand over top of carb till it almost dies. sometimes if there is a drop of water in the main jet, it will suck it thru. Sometimes work's, sometimes not. It's easier than breaking carb open. Just a guess at a cheap fix. MM

And if people didnt try something different now and then, we would all stil be rideing horses. The end

By the way, a Corvair is a flat 6 engine, guess it could be called a boxer, but their case ventilation comes from the top of the crankcase, not the valvecover. any how, the .065 orifice was a little to much vent, would still pull oil on long sweeping corners. I changed the hole to .050 and it would go around 3 corners befor the line to intake would get enough oil to get to motor. I will get a new PCV Valve and put back in line, and along with the .065 orifice, will see if it still suck's oil. Not sure how the PVC Valve work's while running. If that dosn't work, I will build an accumulator to fit on top of the drivers side VC and will see if it will catch enough oil, then let it drain back in the motor after the corner. I built one befor, but was running it with the PCV Valve and no orifice and would fog up the valley on hard long turns. It would probably hold around 6 ounces of oil. I know it is drawing enough air to vent the motor cause it is sucking oil out of the valvecover, where as, with the T in the line system, it isn't. I don't know how oil flow's from top of the head back to oil pan, but I'm guessing, I have enough vacuum to keep this from happening properly, along with the centrifugal force of the corner.. This motor is in excellent shape, so that is not an issue. PCV Valve VS Orifice, - - - Not sure how the PVC Valve work's while running, but would guess both are Vacuum leak's to the intake.. I know how other's have done it, but It is no fun copying other peoples ideas. On VW powered trikes, I had plenty to do just keeping the motor running in top shape. Now with the Subaru Trike, I'm bored with nothing to do cept experiment with Montefications, just likeJesZeK and hundred's of others do. I love being retired. MM

I'm guessing, the small hose is to relieve some of the suction created by the pcv valve, thus not sucking oil out of the valve cover. Mine would only suck oil on a long sweeping curve, I was guessing there was so much vacuum, and centrifugal force, the valve cover was filling up with oil, then sucking it up the pipe, I'm talking about serious smoke. My .065 orifice should slow down the vapor flow and not suck up the oil. putting my finger over the passenger side valve cover vent will create a small suction, so I know it is pulling fresh air into the motor. also, That small of orifice, I didn't even have to re adjust the carb. Love that Weber. Time will tell. Like I said, this is what corvairs do. I would use a small filter on the passenger side, but I do a lot of gravel road driving, filter would clog up fast.

I tried a lot of different thing's using the PCV Valve, First off was Pass side vent to inside aircleaner and the PCV valve hose to driverside top of cover, it sucked a lot of oil when turning hard to the right. Put on an oil accumulator, still sucked oil, (I hadn't found the USMB site yet so I never read a post stating to come off the PVC hose with a smaller host to air cleaner) but then I plugged the PVC outlet in manifold and run both vent hoses to inside of air cleaner. no more smoke, but it probably wasn't the best ventilation system for the motor. Then I copied an idea from the Corvair, , I drilled a .065 hole in the PVC hole plug and welded a piece of 1/2" pipe on that to hook hose to drivers side valve cover vent and run pass side vent to inside aircleaner. the .065 is always drawing a little air thru the engine, and the other side is sucking clean air from inside air cleaner. Thousands of Corvairs are running like this. Time will tell. If I hadn't already welded the PVC valve up to use as a plug, I could of probably put an .065 orifice in the PVC hose and still had the PVC Valve. I haven't run this to much on the road yet. Will post results as I get a few hundred miles on it. MM

If the oil pump (or else where) is sucking air, causing lifters to not pump up solidly, wouldn't very small bubbles show up in the oil on the dipstick after the engine was run a while ???

It is carburated, and the teflon coating on air filter cover has upped my gas mileage also. I streched relief spring in banjo fitting around 1/4" (don't talk metric), drove it 5 miles and no tick. time will tell. MM