LuckyPistol

Here is a thread with pictures and step-by-step. I hope it helps. (if this doesn't, well I tried.) Pics begin on Page #2 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19884

This is a 2 wheel FWD car, I wish I could 4wheel with it though, LOL.. I did hit a dead deer in the road (08/05), doing about 30mph, I thought my subie was going to break in half. But I hit it straight on (It was covering the whole lane) I actually got all 4 wheels off the ground, landed...... And I got out to inspect damage, NONE that I saw.!! WOW. My car was pulling to the left before this, and still pulled to the left after.!! But thank god it didn't suffer any damage. !! (I shoulda included this in my '05 horror story, LMAO)!!!! I don't think I want to call that shop and argue over what he said she said. The guy who was spewing the BS was pretty high up in the a$$hole dept. So, I will find another shop. BTW - any answers as to WHAT IS CAUSING THIS? I will take it to a shop that specializes in alignments (at the first of the year). I just would like to know a ball-park figure on parts and labor. Thanks again......help:)

Well, he did provide a computer read out. I sure dont know what all those numbers mean. And if anyone knows a link to a thread about this, I would greatly apreciate it. So are you saying it's tie rod ends? Wouldn't these guys of SEEN it was tie rods and tell me? thanks for any and all help:)

It's too late..................Apologizes have a 5 day window. welcome back, and we will be watching you;)

Well, my subie is running so gooooooooda right now. I just have one small thing that is bugging me.... Oh, how the always start small (holding breath).. My car is pulling to the left, I have searched some archived posts, and really didn't see an answer, so please help:-\ My car has a pull to the left, and yes, I can change lanes by letting go of the steering wheel. (left lane). There are NO noises, so I dont think its CV joint .(I hope). So I just got brand new tires, and felt, hmmmmm.....Let me get a front end alignment. So they do, and when they are done the service guys walks in and says "Well, you really can't adjust a front wheel drive car , they're just no adjustments. " WTF?? Is that true?? And I am shouting in my head.. Then why didn't he just tell me that BEFORE they did the work?? But then he said "Well, we did adjust your camber, the tire was toed out a bit on that side. We have test drove your car, and now, it just DRIFTS to the left, and not a PULL. Well, $45 dollars and I leave. Well, the car felt alot better, sometimes it actually went straight, but then would just start to drift to the left. Now, after about a month of driving it, the PULL is back to the left. seems they adjusted some slack.. Now, this isn't a BIG deal, I could drive it like this if I wanted too, but it just seems I am fighting the car going to the left. I want to be able to go straight. The guy at the front end place said my tires would wear just fine. Well , I really do not want to fight this steering. Does anyone know what this is exactly? It seems like my description would be easy to tell me. thanks in advance ... So the questions are : 1) What is it that needs replacing - and should I just do it to both sides. and the cost please... 2) Why didn't the alignment place see that my bushings or whatever the f^%k it was that was worn out? I guess my luck just suks with car shops.

Yea,I can laugh about now, but wow , what a year.!! The subie is running better now than ever before !! (well since i've owned it). I didn'tmean to be so hard on all subie's, I was just venting a bit. This subie is actually a beast to hold up to the overheating. And I know the shop was to blame for 90% of my problems. The REALLY good news is that I sure do know ALOT about subies NOW !! And alot of that comes from this website as well, thanks again. And I am pretty handy with the wrench or 2, (did you read about me changing my T-Stat?, LMAO)!! Well, winter is just starting to begin here (They are calling for our first snow tomorrow)!! And I remember the front wheel drive does great !! Yeah. (myrear wheel drive merecedes was worthless in the snow, It was the worst car I ever owned for driving in snow.!!) OH - and my heat is now blowing VERY WARM!! YEAH.!! Thanks for all your responses,and let's hope 2006 will be minimal maintanence free !!

Hatch, you are correct. I knew I was pushing this beast to the breaking point, but it never did. LOL!! I guess I was lucky (that time). I really didn't care if it blew or not, I wasn't walking. I somehow like this car for some reason. I guess I feel like I am just DARING it to break down., LOL!

Well this is gonna be long, so grab a snickers bar...lol.. It should be entertaining and definatly worth the read. Oh god, where do I begin. (and where does it end.!) Well, about a year ago, I inherited a 1986 Subaru GL (Legacy) It seemed to be in great condition, had about 152,000 on the engine, and body was in decent shape, interior was very nice too. My sister had this car, and it was serviced regularly. Well, the only LITTLE thing that was going on , was it had the "Tick of Death". Now, my prior car to this was a 300E Mercedes, and I did alot of work myself and had car shop do the work I could not. And if my son didn't TOTAL it, I wouldn't need to be here today, But Alais, it happened and here I am. (he is fine btw - didn't even suffer a scratch, but he is still in the doghouse with me , lol, well, I ain't gonna let him forget about it anytime SOON!) well anywho, I also like doing research on the internet, because I believe in the fact of "knowledge is power" statement. I joined a mercedes board, and it was a god-send to me learning that car. I ordered parts from a website, etc.. A VERY, VERY enjoyable and invaluable board it was...(still is). So........I figured I would find a Subaru board to help me with this car. And Wallahhh, I found this great board.!!!!! (holding my breath). Well, of course, I searched and read a million topics before I asked any questions.. my very first post (about a year ago is here) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=379866#post379866 You can read and see my enthusiasum about getting this car, and getting some advice and such.. Well, anyway, I had this "Tick of Death".. and people here gave me some advice on what to do. Just an FYI - it really isnt a tick of death (sounds scary), it really is just your oil pump seals going bad, sucking air into your engine, making your valves click. All that USUALLY is needed is a new oil gasket (mickey mouse gasket) , and runs about $2.35. Worse case is new Oil Pump - $65.00 or so. So, I figured, that's not so bad. Well, it turns out it takes about 2-3 hours(LABOR) to get to an oil pump on this car, and since labor was my biggest cost, it was suggested HERE, that I replace some cheap parts along the way. timing belts - $18.00 front crankshaft seals-$5.00 front cam seals-$8.00 water pump - $65.00 Oil Pump - $65.00 I figured I would just replace the whole oil pump,i believe in preventative maintenace. The price's above are my best memory of what they are - I dont feel like digging up the invoices right now. So I figure, OK, I can handle that (and it was a new car to me:) and I figured I would start off with taking care of her. WELL, this is what happened that horrible week I dropped it off at my local rape center (ummm, I mean car center).. Remove and Replace: Oil Pump Water pump timing belts front crankshaft seals front cam seals So, I also bought ALL of these items from partsbin.com , because people here recommended them, so, I did, no biggie. so labor was quoted to about $350.00, again no biggie. Welllllllllllllllllllllllllllll...., my local rape (car)center must hate it when people bring their OWN parts for them to install. The guy said he could have it done in a day, again, cool. Now remember, ALL that was wrong was my OIL PUMP was going bad (well, seals really). Well , first call I get is from the shop: He says that my FAN clutch is broken and thats why my water pump isnt working. WTF???? my water pump was JUST FINE.!!! I didnt have a problem with my fking water pump. So, he says it needs to be replaced COST - $170.00 I said, fine replace the fking thing... I raced to this board and posted this - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27687 (read it if you want more details, and some real ***************ing, LOL!!) OK, then I get another call the next day, saying the Crankshaft Pulley needs replacing , COST - $155.00 - wtf?? then a few hours later he calls and says a timing idler needs replacing - COST - $35.00 This was turning into a fking nightmare. How had all these parts suddenly go bad? anyway, I felt I must be getting their new "anal probe service". and just wanted out, and to get my ONLY car I had back. I needed that car like .., yesterday.!! I said replace , just hurry, I need my car. It was also holiday season, and it turned into a fking week of hell. All and ALL , my bill was just over $1,000.oo !!!!!!!!!!! those fking a$$holes!! And you thought it was OVER?? oh fck no, when I picked it up , it heard a grinding sound, he says, "Sounds like the power steering going bad". FCK YOU A$$HOLE.!! - (I didn't say this, just yelled it out loud in my head) I drove off, cussing like a fking sailor. Next day this fking grinding noise is getting louder and louder..., So, reluctantly,. I take it back to this rape center to figure out what the FCK they have done to it. You can read my post about this here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30359 Long story short, it turns out I Ordered the wrong size water pump and it was shearing off bolts to the fan clutch, WTF??? so now I am pissed at partsbin.com, this board, the whole world.!! LOL. (boy was I pissed back then). So, since I provided the parts, they say it was my fault. Well, I buy a new one and have the rape center remove and replace the water pump. I bought the new water pump locally COST$ 65.00 Labor to R&R - around $225.00 !!!!!!!!!!!! oh, and the tow I had to get $30.00 ! FCK!! - I just wanted to wreck this fcking car into a telephone pole.! Well, after ALL this , the car did run pretty good and smooth. My "tick of death" was completly gone. The Idle was running fine. Then about 6 months goes by...... I feel my a$$ is starting to get the feeling back in it, WHEN..... I pull into a gas station. I pull up to the pump, I get out of the car, and see ALL this COOLANT running out from under the hood. I look behind the car and see a huge river leading up to my car. Yes, coolant is all gone. FCK!! I open the hood, inspect hoses, radiator. I can't see shiate. But suspect my radiator has rupshired. My local Auto Zone was only 1/2 mile away. I drive there. I ask the guy there to take a look, he gets water, we see it pouring out of the bottom/side of the radiator. Still no clue (it was dark by this time too). I drove it home , about 3 miles, and of course it overheats, but I said FCK it. Next morning , I inpect and crawl under.... I pour water..... I see the problem, A PLASTIC, yes PLASTIC plug that screws into the bottom side of the radiator has broken off. There is still a small piece still in the threads, I stick my finger in and remove it. So, I drive to AutoZone, ask them to see if they have a plug that fits, well of course NOT !!!!!!!!! FCK !! The guy there says he has an idea, he would take a plug that almost fit, and wrap electrical tape around it and screw it in, I said, Yeah, go ahead, let's try anything.!! so he filled it with water. he also said Home depot would have one. Well, it did pretty good, the quick fix, but Home depot did not have it. The threads are MM, and they just dont carry that shiate. WELL, I figured I was screwed again.. Then I noticed that my radiator had been replaced with a new one with a lifetime warrenty. So, I look it up on the internet, call them, they give me a name of a local distributor, and they say to stop by and get one, NO CHARGE.!! COOL......., well, I could not find a ride to save my life.!!!! This place was like 20 miles away and was afraid the quick fix would not hold. Yes, I had to fill the radiator up constantly with water. But I was desperate and decided to drive myself. I took plenty of water. Surprisingly, no overheat.!! It held !! I picked up the plastic piece , looks to be all of a .05 part. I get about 4 miles from the place a BAM, the car is overheating, the fix must of popped out. I was like in the middle of nowhere, I said fck it, I am driving to the next gas station, and if this POS blows, the hell with it. LMAO!!!!! I was pissed. Well, anyway, this car was making noises I have never heard a car make, lol... The car even got to a point where it wouldnt even go over 20 mph , LMAO!! Steam was blowing everywhere, this baby was about to blow.!! Well, I finally pull it into a fast food place, (first place I saw, an ARBY'sif you really wanted to know). I cut the car off, and just satthere in amazement, wanting to cry, laugh, it was really a scene. Here, I finally had this plug, and now, I felt like I had blown this engine at the last second. Well, I wait 30 mins or so., I open the hood, YES, the fix is gone. I screw in the new plug. I get water from the hose at Arby's. I say a quick prayer. And start it up. .... , it's ALIVE ! And it sounds good.!! smooth and everything, not a hint of problems. This engine is really a beast!!!! 1 month goes by, no problems, then it overheats for some crazy reason. I inspect, I figure I will change the T-stat. I now do the unthinkable, I sheared off the FCKING bolt on the t-stat. !!!! WTF???? I am at my wits end, I take it to some NEW mechanic , and he says he can get it fixed, well $185.00 , it was, WTF???? seems they had to re-die cut the threads. I also got new brakes, a tune -up, and a front alignment, which BTW, my car still pulls to the left. The place said front wheel drive cars really cant be alighed, WTF??? well, why did you just charge me $45 for?? He said he was able to "toe the camber" in a bit. He said, "it will drift to the left, instead of pulling". Whollly FCK.!! Anyway, the car is running pretty damn good now. But I am not getting any real HOT heat out of it. Well, there WILL be NO heater core put in by me. And if I have one more, just ONE MORE thing go wrong with this POS car, it's going to the junk yard. I have never seen a car with such rinky-dink shiate on it. I mean from the wiring to the hoses, etc... And after reading alot of posts here seems people just disconnect this and that just to get the car to drive. And it seems like one thing after the other with this thing. Yes, and the clock does not work either, and NO, I am not mailing it to northwet to get it fixed, that a$$clock will just sit, there, I am afraid it will short out something else. Well, that's my year-end review for 2005. There is still December, and so, if something does come up, I will update this (if there is room,lol). I hope this car gets another 100,000 on it before it goes. On last thing, Yes, these cars are so scared of winter, it isnt even funny, I hear sounds,squeaks, and I just cant figure it out. Anyway, thanks for reading and thanks again for this great BOARD.!! Happy Holidays !! - lucky or unluckypistol? whaaaaa:) Stay tuned........

This ended up as the nightmare from hell for me, look at my other post about "fan Clutch"... I ended up spending over $1300.00 at my local rape center (I mean car center). All I needed was a $2.36 gasket for my oil pump, and some labor to install it. I wanted to do some preventative maintanence, and I damned near replaced the engine, LOL! (I can laugh about it now..)... But as I type this and start to relive it a bit, I might get angry, I do have a tendancy to jump off the handle.... Here is just a run down of what was done that horrible week ..... Remove and replace : Oil Pump Water Pump - Twice !! (due to partsbin.com listing the wrong pump) Front cam seals Front crankshaft seal Fan Clutch - WTF?? - they say it was broken - BS!!! cost $170.00 Timing belt idler - WTF?? - again broken - $35.00 Crankshaft Pulley - another mysterious broken piece WTF??? - cost $155.00 Oil and Filter Change Transmission Service - drain and refill - clean screen. Adjust throttle control - due to a fast idle I was expieriancing. the cleaned and lubed. All in all , over $1300.00 and it wasnt over yet.!! I ordered the wrong f%^king water pump (look up my post for "water pump") from partsbin.com --- I feel it wasnt my fault, but what can i do.. so I had to get another , and have them remove and replace this one. another $250.00. Anyway, it ran ok for about 6 months... then all hell broke loose with my coolant system. I am posting a new thread for my "yearend review", so I can just go over ALL that went on this year (including what you see here, so please look it up for my FULL STORY)... cya, Lucky - or ummm Unluckypistol

If it was like mine (and it sounds like it was), it's that little rump roast hose that a few above have desribed. 5/16" fuel line hose will fix it. Make sure you get a pre-bent fuel line hose if possible, you dont want it kinking... I don't know what it is about these hoses, but they must be the weakest hoses ever made !!, replace everyone if you can.

I can't tell you how many posts that I (and I am sure others as well) have read with people wanting help with their particular subie problems, issues, etc.. And after alot of people respond with their best suggestions.. They all seem to end with this.... "OK, well, I will try that this weekend (or whenever), and get back to you with the results." And then they never (almost never it seems) to ever follow up with an UPDATE.! Which leaves alot of us hanging on if it worked or not. So, please UPDATE any posts that you start if you had a problem and found a solution. (or if you didnt)... I know I am guilty of it too, but I am trying to update mine. (even after a year or so, LMAO.))~ sorry, i've been busy. I think this will help us all immensly and cut back on repeat questions..

Your exactly right gary... After looking over my repair bills this past year (ouch !!) ..... I noticed I told the shop to check that fast idle problem out. Well, they oiled, and lubed the throttle asembly and that must of done it. I also remember the service advisor saying something like I could replace that part (throttle asembly), but it would cost BIG. I said, "Oh, hell no, just lube it, bend it, piss on it, and I will deal with it, but dont replace it.!" ... LOL!!! It really has been fine ever since.... Well, just wanted to follow up and give some much needed updating. thanks again for all your suggestions..

I wanted to update this a little bit.... I have been busy with my subbie, (you wont believe how much more $$ I have dumped into this thing).so... I will be updating my other posts this weekend. I never really did find out the cause of this., It just sort of went away. I did get a tune-up, and that seemed to help I guess. I am guessing that water temp. control needs replacing, (located at the bottom of the radiator right?). It has that green slime of death around it. Well, thanks again....

Any News?

Miles, you are correct on the water pumps. But still you did not indicate in detail WHICH setup was Factory or DEALER . you seem to give a general description (which is ok). The correct WP I finally got was the one with the thread studs on it. (the long one). But still, we are left in the dark as to what the exact set-up would be for FACTORY or DEALER installed. And I guess the answer as to why there are different sizes? It seems to me , It depended on the type A/C compressor was installed..

Well VERY interesting, I have had a few mechanics here who say that the FACTORY installed A/C has the A/C compressor between the Alternator and power steering pump. Well, that's what I thought, and mine is set up that way. BUT YET, the online parts stores (well, at least thepartsbin.com one), is saying that the "Short" water pump is for Factory installed A/C. And that is what I ordered per partsbin.com description of the part. BUT, it is the LONG water pump that fit mine. Hmmmmm..... I smell a blunder... SOOOooooooooo, I was mislead by partsbin.com. ALSO, I believe I have seen it at napa described that way too. Well, All I can say is, just take it off and compare it to the one you need. Dammit..... I believe the descpriptions are backward, it has to be... Thanks WJM

Well VERY interesting, I have had a few mechanics here who say that the FACTORY installed A/C has the A/C compressor between the Alternator and power steering pump. Well, that's what I thought, and mine is set up that way. BUT YET, the online parts stores (well, at least thepartsbin.com one), is saying that the "Short" water pump is for Factory installed A/C. And that is what I ordered per partsbin.com description of the part. BUT, it is the LONG water pump that fit mine. Hmmmmm..... I smell a blunder... SOOOooooooooo, I was mislead my partsbin.com. ALSO, I have seen it at napa described that way too. Well, All I can say is, just take it off and compare it to the one you need. Dammit.....

Can you post what place you got those prices from? Personally, I go with napa on all my parts, they seem to have the best ones. Although, I did get my first round of parts from thePartsbin.com You seem to have found great prices to me.

Follow up.... Well, I took it back, they took off belts, listened, and came to the conclusion that it was my power steering pump. They say $325, I say, NO, NO, I will pick my car up thank you. So, I take it to someone who doesnt really work on subbies, but is a very good mechanic and HONEST. He has it for about 15 minutes before he sees what the problem is. The water pump pulley HAS SHEARED off the studs and bolts.!!!!! And metal shavings are everywhere. Then I realized something that came back to haunt me...... I remembered that when I was ordering the WATER PUMP, there were "2" sizes to choose from. One was for a FACTORY installed A/C , and the other was for a DEALER installed A/C. Well, I inspected my A/C system and it looked FACTORY to me, so I ordered accordingly. MY MISTAKE. I ordered the wrong type, and it really cost me big. I had to buy another , have them remove and replace. SO, make sure you GET the right one, because it can be installed and run for awhile, before grinding and a knocking noise alerts you. And hopefully it doesnt shear off completely or could be major damage. Mine almost came off !! Another 10-15 miles and it would of, fanclutch, radiator,etcc. would of been runed. I had only one stud hanging on for dear life, lol. My question to anyone is, HOW can you tell if it is a FACTORY installed A/C. as opposed to a dealer installed A/C??? No mechanic I asked knew how. But I did see a A/C tag under the hood, that looked like it was put there by the dealership. It was under a bolt and not glued down (like the factory usually does with engine tags, etc..) Maybe thats it. But thanks for any help, and hopefully this will help someone avoid in the future what happened to me. BTW- I ended up paying them full price for Labor to remove and replace correct water pump. It's hard for me to complain, but you are right Turbone, a very alert and observant mechanic would of caught it. And I did speak with the mechanic in question, and he said that when he used to work on those old subbies he remembered about those water pumps. And to be honest the difference between the water pumps is just an 1/8" inch, so it is easy to over look it I guess. Well, hope this helps, AND YES, NOW after $1300.00 - MY SUBBIE is RUNNING LIKE NEW, and I HOPE IT LASTS FOR ANOTHER 100,000 miles or more.!!!!1!

I did a search and didn't find anything about this so.. Well, Well, Well,....... For those who read about my nightmare with my 1987 Subaru Gl 1.8L repair recently. This is kinda of a follow up to what caused my Ultimate problem after picking up my car from the repair shop. I will get to the MOST IMPORTANT water pump issue......just keep reading please. Look up my thread entitiled "1987 fan clutch" to get the first part of the story. I will add this comment onto it, to make sure it gets this update. But to make a long story short, I took my car in to get a oil pump replaced. All I really needed (to be honest) was the "mickey mouse" gasket replaced. But after getting some great feedback here about what else I should get replaced , it was SUGGESTED that I go ahead and replace oil pump, water pump, cam and crankshaft seal and timing belts. Now, all these parts are relatively inexpensive. And considering most of the labor cost is getting to the oil pump, these other parts are a non-brainer to go ahead and get installed. Well, I buy all the parts. I get an estimate from a few shops. I pick a shop in the middle of the price war. Well, to make a long story short. The shop had a few problems uninstalling a few major parts (causing my bill to exceed $1,000) Needless to say, I thought that would be the end of it. So, after I pick up my car, I noticed major grinding noises. Well, I took it back, they took off belts, listened, and came to the conclusion that it was my power steering pump. They say $325, I say, NO, NO, I will pick my car up thank you. So, I take it to someone who doesnt really work on subbies, but is a very good mechanic and HONEST. He has it for about 15 minutes before he sees what the problem is. The water pump pulley HAS SHEARED off the studs and bolts.!!!!! And metal shavings are everywhere. Then I realized something that came back to haunt me...... I remembered that when I was ordering the WATER PUMP, there were "2" sizes to choose from. One was for a FACTORY installed A/C , and the other was for a DEALER installed A/C. Well, I inspected my A/C system and it looked FACTORY to me, so I ordered accordingly. MY MISTAKE. I ordered the wrong type, and it really cost me big. I had to buy another , have them remove and replace. SO, make sure you GET the right one, because it can be installed and run for awhile, before grinding and a knocking noise alerts you. And hopefully it doesnt shear off completely or could be major damage. Mine almost came off !! Another 10-15 miles and it would of, fanclutch, radiator,etcc. would of been runed. My question to anyone is, HOW can you tell if it is a FACTORY installed A/C. as opposed to a dealer installed A/C??? No mechanic I asked knew how. But I did see a A/C tag under the hood, that looked like it was put there by the dealership. It was under a bolt and not glued down (like the factory usually does with engine tags, etc..) Maybe thats it. But thanks for any help, and hopefully this will help someone avoid in the future what happened to me.

UPDATE - UPDATE - UPDATE - Feb.4 , 2005 Come to find out, It is NOT the power steering pump after all.!!! I ordered the WRONG size water pump, and the fan pulley was coming loose. It ended up shearing the studs of the pulley, I got a replacement. And it will be done by Monday. I hope this is it with ALL this. Thanks again for your help. P.S. - There are 2 water pumps - one for FACTORY installed A/C Or one for Dealer installed A/C. It looked factory to me, but I guess I was wrong. Let me ask, Should the mechanic of known it was the wrong water pump he was installing?

I am a fool. I got raped by my local repair shop and am just taking it out on you guys, which is not fair. I got great advice here , and I would do it again. My ranting about this topic has NOTHING to do with the great people and advice here. It just seems, I am venting, and I guess it's convienant to do here, which is not fair. Please disregard any of my Rantings towards this board. It is the repair shop is who I need to be bitching. Sorry again, Lucky

Erasing my ranting....

WJM, Are you positive it will fit in my car? How much??, you can SS me if you would like. Also, I am thinking it would take about an hour maybe to install. It sits right on top of the motor. Thanks. Anyone else know where to get a new PS pump ??

I want to apologize to everyone. Of course I was upset and I had a few drinks in me before I posted the rant. I know everyone suggested good things. I found out today that it is indeed my power steering pump. So I gritted my teeth and asked "how much" would it be to fix it?. He is like $325.00 for every thing. He also said there might be another pulley going bad. I am at my wits end with this thing. I read a few posts back, that they may have tightened my belts too tight, which could of damaged my PS pump?? It's funny you say that, because when I came to pick it up, I started it, and it was making a slight,squeaky, bearing type noise. The guy goes and gets the belt dresssing, spray it all over the belts, pulleys, and all goes quiet. A day later, I had to do it again. And then , the grinding started to get louder, and no dressing was helping. I believe it, because I had NO , I repeat NO other sounds, problems with this car before I brought it in to them. Now, I am sure they screwed up a few things (fan clutch, crankshaft pulley). But I was a fool as to absorb that. But I figured the car would go for another 100K now, so I just took it. And Now, I am sure they had the belts to damn tight. But How can I prove it now? They sure arent going to admit it I am sure. I have found someone else who is much more honest and cheaper, (and better I hope). Anyway, I cant find a PS pump online, I've looked. But can someone give me a reasonable estimate for doing the PS pump. Parts and labor. Thanks again. And hopefully I can post back with great things about this car in the future. 1986 Subaru GL 1.8 FI.