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BoxerRebellion

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Everything posted by BoxerRebellion

  1. BoxerRebellion
    I'm sure that... through my hopping onto I-5 from Portland, I'll run into some of yousguys. What a pleasant Saturday it'll be.
  2. BoxerRebellion
    Welcome to the boxer world. I feel you'll find yourself at home.
  3. BoxerRebellion
    Good info my dude. I'll do that. More to come.
  4. BoxerRebellion
    AWD-FTW
  5. BoxerRebellion
    Hello my fellow Scoobthusiasts. I post today in regards to... inconsistent dashboard venting/heating/defrosting etc. I had nearly forgotten all about this... Until the NW experienced (as some of you know) decent lighting/thunda/heavy rain. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. More often not. Venting that is. When it "doesn't," there's simply no air coming through the vents. Zip, zilch, nada. It vents when it wants to. The rig - '87 GL Wagon ft. '93 Impreza motor. My question - Where do I even start to look, to diagnose this inconvenience/every-now-and-then-potential-danger. (Foggy rush-hour-drive home ain't no good) Thanks in advance for the information regarding this... perhaps in-depth topic. -BR
  6. BoxerRebellion
    DOJ (DepartmentOfJustice) ZING! Get it? - Get it?
  7. BoxerRebellion
    That's way... way too much for bearings. If I'm not mistaken, your scoob takes #6702 bearings. (Which is a size used for many applications) Do yourself a favor and get sealed bearings. And the cost shouldn't exceed $12-$15 each. Sealed bearings do not require any greasing, and will stay cleaner for longer. http://www.mcguirebearing.com/ -not sure if they ship, but I'd check this company out. I get auto/motorcycle bearings through them. Sealed, everytime.
  8. BoxerRebellion
    Not sure. Fill 'er up while checking the dipstick periodically. Once it hits the full mark, run the engine for a few minutes then re-check - make sure it's still at "Full" Voila.
  9. BoxerRebellion
    You.. Uhh... Huh..
  10. BoxerRebellion
    Pick up a universal high-flow cat. They don't cost that much. Your rig'll be louder. You won't feel bad.
  11. BoxerRebellion
    I'd put my money on the CV axle. Especially since you said it's when you turn to the left. That's a symptom.
  12. BoxerRebellion
    Maybe a 90-degree driver would aid in this delemma?
  13. BoxerRebellion
    As nice of a thought it is to swap them. . . Honestly, that's a ridiculous work-load, to in the end have the same bad axle. If you catch a tear in a boot sooner than later, regreasing and replacing the boot is an option. However, once that axle starts making noise, the damage is done. It is in your best interest to replace the axle. If you wish not to have an "inferior" axle, which I fully understand.. Pick up an OEM from a dealer. It will cost an arm and a leg. -Though, once the axle-eating power of your Subaru is realized - picking up an inferior Chinese/Argentinan axle starts to make sense. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." If you decide to swap the axle, you'll have the same problem... Only you'll have spent a few hours of your life to put the problem on the other side.
  14. BoxerRebellion
    The beatiful truth regarding electricity... Is that it has an A to B path. It doesn't scurry off somewhere random. If your fuses are good, that's great, that's a good start. This will sound shitty, but DO check to make sure the wires aren't cut anywhere. (Could happen) ...Relay? Are they even plugged in?
  15. BoxerRebellion
    What you described... Sounds like... A Bizzaro symptom. I'm leaning towards more of a problem with the unit itself, versus wiring or otherwise. You plug your iPod in, the radio doesn't shut off? Is it supposed to shut off? Are there controls to select various inputs? I'm confused. If you can't hear the voices, but the music sounds good... Wait, huh? Does the music, actually sound good? Or is it actually... sub-par? Do yourself a favor, get a new head unit. Avoid this bizzare problem(s) Alternatively, REWIRE.
  16. BoxerRebellion
    I'm sure... for the price of that Loyale Wagon you posted "http://portland.crai...4020020854.html" -You'd be happy. Take that grand-five you save and replace suspension components. So it rides smoooooth. Handles smooooooth. Doesn't creak and pop with every turn. However, DO keep in mind... that any of these high-mileage Scoobs you're looking at, will be sooner than later requiring CV axles replacements. 100% guarantee it. Not the worst job, and there's many here who'd be willing to help with the work needed, including myself.
  17. BoxerRebellion
    I've replaced one radiator cap in my life. Purchased from CarQuest. The cap original to the Scoob was Japanese. The replacement cap was Chinese - and very "chinsy." Periodically replacing a radiator cap in my mind... Is like periodically replacing your door handles simply because... "Welp, they might fail down the road." If it isn't leaking, it's doing it's job and it's a simple job at that. It doesn't do anything other than provide a leak-free pressure fitting - that allows access to coolant when you need access. No leak. No problem. Perhaps inspect it, if it's clean, it's clean.
  18. BoxerRebellion
    $500!?
  19. BoxerRebellion
    Well then. Having troubles uploading pictures. -5SPD manual, wouldn't have it any other way. -AWD conversion -'93 Impreza trans. -LSD sticker claiming 4.11 -#722011002 I like the idea of jacking up the back. Hadn't thought of that. Good call. That'll tell me what's inside. I'll do that tomorrow, not home tonight. Now - what can I take from what the car is, what the tranny is, the numbers claimed on the diff, and the stock (but drilled) hubs? And... Aftermarket drive shaft. *cough* Sorry, I tried uploading six decent pics though they didn't go through. I feel they'd greatly aid in this confusing quest of conquering that of the unknown metal object. Lemme get these pics uploaded. The question is, which Subie done it? Not what, but from what.
  20. BoxerRebellion
    Happy Thursday. No problems involved with this thread. Simply trying to identify where the rear diff. came from on my GL. Correct me if it's stock... I don't believe it is. '87 GL Wagon - converted to AWD. Stock hub drilled to 6-lug. Rear diff p# 722011002 Gear ratio - 4.111 Now, which differential w/ that part number and ratio out of the bag, would work with the original hubs of the GL? Pics if requested.
  21. BoxerRebellion
    Wow. First, shout out to Miles for guessing plug-wire-sequence. Wow. Second, caspice... 'Lotta work dude. Props for resurrecting a good car, with old parts, that just needed some TLC. Sounds rewarding.
  22. BoxerRebellion
    If I'm not mistaken, yes. Coud be mistaken... However, initially turning the key to ON - you hear that "vroooooo" and then it stops. Priming. Gotta have at least a little fuel ready for the injectors to do their thing when they're told to do it.
  23. BoxerRebellion
    I would say, personally speaking... It does make a difference. In reference to the tension that's placed upon the control arm. Try forcing the control arm down while connected to the sway bar. Now, try forcing the arm down while NOT connected to the sway bar. Noticeable difference. Yeah? Not truly an offroad piece of gear. Take a fast car, whip it around a corner - that sway bar aids in resisting "body-roll." That it's purpose. With that in mind, choose accordingly. Either way sounds fun
  24. BoxerRebellion
    "It's time to play everybody's favorite gaaaaaaaaameeeee........" "PLINKO!" 'Price is Right - reference'
  25. BoxerRebellion
    Did I miss this?
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