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BoxerRebellion

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Everything posted by BoxerRebellion

  1. BoxerRebellion
    As it turns out... The "piston cube" worked flawlessly. I was kicking myself when I realized how easily the pistons recessed with the proper tool. As opposed to ...BRUTE FORCE COMPRESSION. This is the first rig I've been involved with that had such a brake setup. And @NorthWet, I caught onto the fact the piston had to be turned to a form of "TDC" I suppose it makes some sense, being that the piston is housed in a shell that is cabable of unwanted movement during driving. Didn't see it at first, though shop lights revealed the little nub on the inner pad was hanging up. Tricky little setup. Bizzarro. I now see why this style of piston is no longer in use. In conclusion, learned a valuble lesson. -Without damage occurring from a lack of needed knowledge, that could only be gained from such experience. I thank all who chimed in.
  2. BoxerRebellion
    For a living, I do in-out shipping, and order/sell motorcycle parts, apparel and accessories. Having a motorcycle with matching tires, especially sporty bikes, is rather important. Sport bike tires need to heat at the same ratio, possess the same amount of lean angle, have the same contour from side to top and... This and that. In terms of cars, regardless if it's FWD, RWD, AWD, 4WD - The tires aren't nearly as crucial in terms of matching. That is at least, not for the intented purposes of your Leone. Each tire is 25% of the vehicle's connection to the ground. If it was some slammed WRX, it would mean something more. What's more important, rather than the fact that there's an oddball.... Is that the demensions are the same. 180/55/17 - example (Width/AspectRatio/WheelSize) If that's even across the board, you're in the clear.
  3. BoxerRebellion
    Sigh... I slightly... Slightly expected this. Probably explains the odd looking shape and surface area of the piston. And the other Subs were newer Legacys and Imprezas. Good information from the both of you. I really appreciate it. Really do. I'll try the channels first, then go from there. Learned my lesson. Guess this is the best way. Thanks again guys.
  4. BoxerRebellion
    And here we are once again. Smack in the middle of a rotor/pad job. For.... Whatever reason, I can't for the life of me get the Front-Left caliper piston to go back into it's home. I've repeatedly serviced brakes on five different Subarus throughout my life. I've yet to run into this problem. Even broke the handle on my brake depress tool. Sweet. Opened the bleed valve, pulled the roof off the master cylinder, nothing. Rock solid won't budge. After scurrying around the interwebs I read multiple articles regarding vehicles having caliper pistons that twist in. Does the '87 GL have these twistyroo pistons? Is that the problem? Who here knows something I don't? Any info - greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  5. BoxerRebellion
    Nice work @LPGsuperchargedBrumby.
  6. BoxerRebellion
    It's been a few weeks since anyone's posted here, though I'll still chime in. Using my wild and powerful imagination... The only use I could see for a "split boot" would be as an emergency repair in the middle of the tundra. Having no tools or feasible way to service the axle. Much stress and weathering is put on those boots. Temperature, movement, road debris. And if you really do live in HI, salt. Which has the expansive power to chew through anything. The boots have a big job to do, holding in all that grease. A split boot, is a short cut I personally would avoid. Take it to a buddy's, take it to a parking lot, take it somewhere. Bring the tools, the towels, gloves and the grease. Or drop the bones to have a shop do it. Hope it all comes together.
  7. BoxerRebellion
    If the peddle went to the floor, I'm willing to bet it's the fork. Even if it isn't visible from the top. I've had that happen before to on a '91 Legacy. Have you tried gear meshing at the right RPMs? Starting cars in 1st gear is always a treat.
  8. BoxerRebellion
    Since you asked. Brute force. All around. Pins will always come out. All they need is persuasion. Penetrating lube, if you must. If your punches are TOO big, use a hex wrench. And... If you can't get the axle out, sounds like you may need to unbolt more. The strut assembly can dangle in the wind. That's alright. Having that available movement is what allows you to "twerk" the output shaft in and out of place. CV axles can be messy and strenuous. Others can be quite easy. And.... For when you finally do get the axle out and replace what you need to... You'll run into trying to get the CV axle's shaft back through the hub. Force it through far enough so that a few threads are visible, then thread the axle nut back on. Wrench on that puppy with a vice grip. Whilst - shaking. And do be sure that any grooves or this and that are clearing whatever races may be hangin' out. Aughta do.
  9. BoxerRebellion
    Upon replacing the gaskets, there may have been foreign objects that slipped into the pipe. -Pieces of old gasket -Dirt, maybe rocks -Washers, perhaps Also, be sure that it's a noise that truly is coming from inside the pipe. As opposed to... The off chance of a hanger or other piece of pipe/fitting vibrating against something else. Take the pipe off and beam a flashlight into the abyss. Suppose that's the next step. Best of luck.
  10. BoxerRebellion
    The cheapest route would be to locate the same exhaust in an acceptable condition at a U-Pull-It. The non-cheapest route would be to purchase pipe at the desired diameter and have it bent. -That is, unless you've a buddy with a bender that'll work for six-packs ; ) (Pipe is cheap, bending is not) In terms of a muffler, you'll most likely be happy with anything if it's from a good, trusted brand. Characteristics to consider - Price, Size, Throaty or not, loud? Perhaps consult a local Subie shop - I'm sure there's some in Colorado - ask them to chime in. Good contacts can often be met with little work.
  11. BoxerRebellion
    As it turns out... The '87 GL-10 CV was the axle needed. I'll be posting a thread regarding the project later. To chronicle events, and to warn the masses of the potential woes and mistakes to watch out for - the mistakes I made. Thank you for the great input everyone. It wasn't the best time, but it certainly was a learning experience. BR out!
  12. BoxerRebellion
    @ystrdyisgone - You mentioned shaking at higher speeds. Given the time frame, chances are that the rack is the culprit. However, a shaky steering wheel can also point to wheels that need balancing. It's a cheap fix at a shop, if not free and at the least... Wouldn't hurt anything. Just a thought. Cheers.
  13. BoxerRebellion
    Wow. Miles. Solid response man. Honestly, that was a learning experience. I hope your guesstimations are correct. This afternoon - ordered an assembly for an '87 GL-10. 5-SPD Figured a non-naturally-aspirated powerplant's transmission would require a somewhat beefier output shaft. Daunting. More to come shortly.
  14. BoxerRebellion
    TY752VX3AA Which... When referenced through the attached chart, is shown as a '93 Impreza. But I don't think that's right. The outer spindle that connects to the hub is too short... And not... stalky enough. Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf
  15. BoxerRebellion
    TY752VX3A And I believe they're the original '87GL EA hubs, with 6-lug adapter plates.
  16. BoxerRebellion
    Alright. How's everyone doing? Two days ago my front passenger CV axle blew. I was 100 miles from home. Started knocking, all that good stuff. No big deal right? Right. This lifted GL does not have it's original tranny, kay. As a rookie move, first bought a CV for the transmission, which came from a first-gen Legacy. WRONG. Returned it, bought a CV for the chassis, an '87 GL. WRONG. My car is up on stands in front of my place until I can figure this out. How can I identify and acquire the right axle??? The Legacy CV's outer spindle was too short. The GL's "receiving spindle" that connects to the diff. was too small by... maybe two MMs. Does anyone... Have any words of wisdom? I've swapped three CV axles in my life. Totally familiar with the process. But I've never had to do it with a FrankenSub. Ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!
  17. BoxerRebellion
    Sounds like a lean condition to me. Suppose it could be rich, but if you were to ask me, I'd take a look at the jetting. You can throw larger or smaller jets into a carb, but the resulting effect isn't always desired. You can purchase multiple jet sizes either way, for cheap. Trial and error. I've been there with motorcycles. Also, the car can only take in as much as it can put out. So when the jetting gets messed with, but the exhaust stays the same, that's where things can potentially get wonky. I'd trial and error with different jets. "Don't fix it if it ain't broke," sure... Though... I think that'd be the easiest way. Best of luck.
  18. BoxerRebellion
    Not sure if you have CarQuest out there. If no one around has them, sounds like it's an online purchase. Maybe... AutoPartsWarehouse?
  19. BoxerRebellion
    That manual makes it look difficult. I literally just changed out my front passanger CV axle last night. Which involved dropping the control arm as well as disconnecting the sway bar. In terms of a tie rod... Easy peasy. Nuts and bolts. Undo 'em, put the new ones in. With polyurethane fittings ; ) Without any manual, just go to town. Refer for tork specs. I guess my only advice would be... Don't reuse cotter pins. Post finished pictures = D
  20. BoxerRebellion
    You guys are great. I'll use the info provided and continue forward. More to come shortly.
  21. BoxerRebellion
    Well hi there. Upon the installation of a nice Alpine deck, replacing my GL's stock AM/FM radio - I've ran into a few issues. 1 - Confirmed left front speaker blown 2 - Confirmed right front speaker inoperable? 3 - Left rear speaker missing 4 - Right rear speaker intact - though speaker wires in panel are cut? Kay - Those were simply "discoveries" I @#$%'d up maybe a thing or two. This was my first stereo install. I'm not mad, I think I did pretty well considering a lack of previous experience. Would someone perhaps like to elaborate - "Switched Power" vs. Battery Lead. Switched power is... When the car is turned to ACC or ON, no? Regardless of how I wire it, when the engine is shut off, the deck shuts off as well. I've seen a few threads on here relating to such issues, though perhaps they didn't answer my questions. I'll be picking up speakers later today. Wiring <what> to <what>... Can screw <what> up? What should I wire "Illumination" to? Thank you fellow enthusiasts.
  22. BoxerRebellion
    Yezzir. And the lights... The under-carriage lighting is comprised of LEDs, so no draw there to speak of. The lamps however, I'd like to test and see just how much power they draw. That'd be neat. And.... My neighbor has a CRX. I glanced inside and the pillars do seem similiar. Probably a solid purchase. The two gauges I currently have are functional, and read funtionally........... Harhar. Oil Pressure and Water Temp. It's not like I'm boosted to a heavy 15 pounds or anything, but it is neat to watch the pressure change through driving and different circumstances. The Temp gauge currently installed eluded it's previous owner to a blown gasket. Head gasket of course. Naturally. Fun stuff. Gauges are cool. They add a bit of flare, as well as funtionality.
  23. BoxerRebellion
    Well... The thing about replacing stock with... stock... Is that... The way I look at it... I typically get slightly excited when something breaks. Because... I get to replace it with my choice of part, flavor. It can be catered towards this and that. That's what makes things different. Custom. Though like @scoobiedubie said, U-Pull-Its are a great way to go. I've obtained countless parts from yards. It's fun. And cheaper. And typically... What you need is there. Best of luck.
  24. BoxerRebellion
    Trying uninstalling and reinstalling your shifter and the mechanisms involved. You say... It started with 2nd, then 4th? Fourth wasn't doing it to begin with? And... Were you aware of the tranny's condition before you put it in? Or was it supposed to be... Clean?
  25. BoxerRebellion
    @AKghandi - Yeah... That's what I thought. In my ten years of working on cars/motorcycles... I've actually never ran into the problem before. Just like you said, the 14mil came right out. However, the caliper is quite literally - stuck. The rotors are so far worn in... More than I've ever seen as well. The lip is roughly... an eigth inch? On both sides of the rotor. Like... Seriously ground in. Had the caliper been capable of removal through normal means, I never would've brought it up. Both wheels. With that said, thank you for the bumper info. I created a thread to try and get to the bottom of it - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139420-can-anyone-identify-this-front-bumper/ @MilesFox claimed that it had changed hands as well. Said it was a one-off from Wisconsin. @leniac claimed he'd seen it on Aussie forums. I've seen it as well. On this site. I'm trying to find the thread that had it. Maybe it really was the same bumper. Maybe not? @jj421 - Thanks man. It rides like a beast as well. And sadly, the dual pillar guage came with the car. Well, not sadly. Anywho, I'm honestly not sure what's it true application is. I'm glad to hear you like it... But it doesn't fit perfectly. There's space between the actual pillar and the pod. Autometer guages, perhaps it's a universal Autometer assembly. That would be my best guess. Within a few days I'll take it off and try to find a part#. I'll let you know the results.
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