PA Grown
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Everything posted by PA Grown
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Ok so I looked my brake and clutch pedals... Where's this nylon button located?
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I'll look at the clutch and brake pedals. Where's this hose that you speak of? Like where's it start where's it end?
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Hey guys so I just bought my newest subi and almost have the thing running like a wet dream and am starting to pack up. My question- I'm trying to take my motorcycle 390lbs and my dirtbike 180lbs. Am I gonna get away with hauling 600lbs + me and some other gear?
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Might wanna get another car just in case you find out like I did that I like to go fast lol
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Slammed a bunch of bearing grease into the cv bearings today during lunch... So my query- my cv boot is torn circular around the boot... Therefor that grease isn't gonna last long, especially since I live on a farm... Car I just grab a boot off the Datsun with a bad engine that's here? It died last year so I think at least one boot has to still be good!
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As the title says my cruise control doesn't work. Light comes on on the cruise control button just nothing happens when I hit the little speed selector stick on the steering wheel. Where should I start?
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Btw if I break this front left cv joint and I gonna be SOL and stuck or is it gonna just lose power to the front wheels and I'll still be able to run the rear tires?
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Hmmm alright thanks for the advice guys! I've got like 5 bucks for the next 2 weeks or so.. So I'll have to wait on plugs and the fuel filter and I already dumped seafoam through the gas tank to clean the injectors and the lines. Btw I hate cv joint replacement... So I'll try putting bearing grease in the boot to try and save it. Any advice on the best way to apply the grease and seal the torn boot?
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Didn't get a chance to pull any plugs today. Cars hot and its sunset here. And ok my boss has an Impreza so I know to plug the reader in at. Also I have a ripped cv boot and something up those making the click click click noise of impending doom in the front drivers side hub... This is my second subaru and my first one I lifted. So I know what it's like to replace cv joints no problem... Problem- i can't decide if it is the cv joint or a warped hub. The car only makes that ticking noise when I go straight. When I crank the wheel all the way on both still no ticking noise! Confused... I'll throw some grease on the inside of that cv joint earrings and boot and melt it back together to try to extend its life if it's the culprit or not. What else could the mystery tick be?
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Also which fuse is to the cruise control? No cruise happening at the moment.
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So today I found the airbox had about 2 inches of dirt... Cleaned that and bought a replacement for the caked filter(grand junction cars get like that) Ran seafoam through the IAC and it sounds like it idles better. It idles a little under 750 but still sounds like a POS loping V8. No check engine light, I'll the farm mechanic to plug in a code reader and see if it says anything. I'm pretty broke so I'm checking cleaning and putting stuff back on. Anything else I can check and clean to try to get her sounding better? It's a manual transmission. No check engine light is on. The timing belt still has another 20xxx or so before it hits 100xxx but I will check under the front cover to see the belts condition and if the white lines on the belt are where they should be. What's the degree the timing belt should be at I can't remember.
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So I picked up a Suby last night and she runs great one at about 1800rpm or so but idles at about 500 rpm and almost sounds like theres a v8 loping under the hood... Not the case though:) on cold start she idles at about 1500-1800. Timing belt was done 80xxx ago. Poured some seafoam into the tank in hopes its dirty injectors. Gonna check the air filter and pour some more seafoam through the air idle control dealio on the throttle body through the bypass hose in hopes that'll clear it... Maybe a weak fuel is what the guy I bought it from said. I talked him down from 1500 to 950 for this car and I'm hoping I can get this low idle problem fixed quickly as I'm trying to escape back to Washington state from Colorado. Help me out guys!
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For a set
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It's like 60 dollars off rock auto if someone wants to give it a shot
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Moneyyyyyy man. Yah no I'm gonna have to lift. Just got a new carb and need some new 28s as mine are thrashed before I can invest 800 into a 6 inch lift. But I still wanna try the chevy s10 coil overs. Could be a way to put serious support in the back. Orrrr it'll be the stiffest ride I've ever been in.
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Oh and a don't have a lift but I am running 28s and hoping the coil over will give me some clearance
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Rock auto sells coil over springs for the s10 with that same top bracket on it... I think I might have to give it a shot. Anyone oppose??.
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Just found this post again. I know I ran my car with...Bad gas.... New to carbs... Pretty sure I screwed up. I'll check out the fuel filter in the morning and order a new gas tank sometime and let it sit in my garage for a few weeks before getting it into the subaru
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Hey opening a dead thread I know but gloyale did you say I can bolt in Chevy s-10 shocks for longer travel in the back?!
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What diameter length are we talking to fit the king springs and keep relatively same height?
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how to weld up a lincoln locker
PA Grown replied to Rooinater's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
^^^^^I approve that statement^^^^^ I'd pay good money for one too -
I've gotten high centered and rocked the subaru off of rocks before... I just need 28 in mud tires could fit 30s buuuut a mig welder and my hatchback will scream through mud. Lift kit not needed!
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I've gotten high centered and rocked the subaru off of rocks before... I just need 28 in mud tires could fit 30s buuuut a mig welder and my hatchback will scream through mud. Lift kit not needed!
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Just so this post doesn't die..... I think you need to build a shield. And that radiator might need to get some attention.