tracedog67

Fellers, I am getting codes on my '97 OBW (240k) for the EGR and knock sensor. Where can I find the knock sensor? Autozone's website says mounted on rear of cylinder block under the valve covers. thanks Tdog

You're right, Lucas wouldn't affect the clutch at all. I bought the car at 182k miles from a small dealer. The previous owner was the original owner and drove 72 miles one way to work each day and i think it is the original clutch. I had the head gaskets done at 191k miles which isn't too bad either. tdog

Fellers, About a month ago I posted my clutch was slipping and the RPMs flaring on just normal acceleration. Since the weather is just a litttle warmer the clutch hasn't been slipping hardly at all lately. I added Lucas transmission additive shortly after it started but I don't know if I can fully attribute the less slippage to Lucas or not. I was calling the dealer to price a new clutch install but maybe now I can put it off until i hit 250k miles. Any thoughts thanks Tdog '97 OBW 239,855 miles 5MT

How do I have the codes taken out? Can i do this my self? thanks Tdog

I replaced the wires about a year ago with aftermarket ones. When i had an emission test with the original wires everything passed perfect. Could cheap wires cause a misfire? they ran the e test using the onboard computer not with the exhaust. Tdog

Fellers, Took my '97 OBW (239k miles) with 5 MT in this morning for an E-test and I failed! The computer came back with an EGR valve, all 4 cylinders misfire and a knock sensor. I assume i can easily replace the EGR and knock sensor, but what about the misfire? The car runs good although my mileage lately seems somewhat low but I figured that was a tire that has a slow air leak. I replaced the plugs when the dealer did the headgaskets at 192k miles so i may need to put some new ones in. Anybody got any good suggestions? thanks Tdog Cincy

dude that's nuts - 238,000 on the original clutch? I bought the car at 181k miles, the first and original owner drove the car one way 70 miles to work on the highway so the clutch wear has been minimal. My mixed driving is probably what has wore it down. tdog

Fellers, Clutch is slipping on my OBW, 5 speed MT with 238k miles (not bad for original clutch). How much should I expect to spend at the dealer to replace clutch? Is this a tuff job or could I trust another shop to do this? thanks Tdog

Fellers, I need to get my rear struts replaced on my '97 OBW with 238k miles. Every time i go over a larger bump I hear a clunk on the driver's rear side. What would I expect to pay at the dealer and at an independent place? Is there any advantage of using OEM parts at the dealer? Has anyone had their's replaced? thanks Tdog

Ok fellow subies, I have a '97 OBW with 235k miles , 5 MT. I bought the car 26 months ago at 181k miles. The original owner drove 150 miles highway each day to work so the high mileage and I am assuming the original transmission and clutch. this morning while getting on the highway in 5th gear I was going about 60 mph and accelerated and the rpm's jumped more than usual and quickly settled back down. This appears to be the clutch flaring and hopefully not slipping. I had an '88 thunderbird turbocoupe with a 5 speed that did this shortly before the clutch went out. Am I looking at the same thing with this symptom? The clutch is hydraulic so I am not familiar with this kind. We just got the transmission rebuilt on our '92 SVX so I don't want another high bill at this time of year. Any suggestions appreciated. thanks Tdog

On my '97 OBW i did the headgaskets, water pump, and timing belt at 191k miles about 2 years ago and the temp gauge never goes beyond the thermometer icon so the newly redesigned headgaskets are working fine. I had this done for $1100 at the dealer here in Cincinnati. The car has 235k miles now and runs very good. Tdog

With 235k miles on the '97 OBW it's time to replace the rear shocks (or is it struts?). Is this an easy DIY bolt up project or do I need a spring compressor? I'm fairly handy but don't tackle the bigger jobs. What kind of prices can I expect from a dealer or local shop to have them do this? Is this easy enough to have Midas or Sears do it without getting ripped off? Love this board. thanks all, Tdog

I have a '97 OBW with 234k miles on her, 5 speed MT. I bought the car 2 years ago at 181k miles and had the headgaskets go at 191k miles. After spending 1200 to have the head gaskest, timing belt, and water pump she runs hard all day long. I just drove 9 hours today at 80 mph and she ran perfect and my temp gauge never goes above the bottom of the thermometer icon. I think she may have lost a little of power over all these miles but i never drove it new so I can't truley compare. The car has been maintenance free other than the usual oil, brakes, and I'm still on the Goodyear tires the previous owner put in before I bought it. Also my wife's daily driver is a '92 SVX with 160k miles that still has plenty of balls left in the 3.3! Tdog

Fellers, The dealer pulled codes and said I have a bad front pass side ABS sensor on my '92 SVX per the codes. The didn't take the sensor off to clean or look at it. The estimate about $300 to replace with labor and a new sensor at $149. I have tried to get the sensor off before with no luck. The bolt comes out easily but I can't dislodge the sensor itself. I can buy a new one for about $115 online, is there a secret to getting the sensor off? BTW, i got an '03 Legacy sedan for a loaner and the acceleration is not impressive with the 2.5L. thanks Tdog67

Fellers, I am thinking of having a remote start and keyless alarm put on my mom's 96 OBW and am looking for recomendations for types of systems and ease of installation. My first thought is just go to Best Buy or Circuit City, buy it there and have them install it for convenience and a warranty. Your thoughts appreciated. Tdog

When I opened the hood i noticed that there appeared to be some wetness near the firewall. With the hood up I pumped the clutch and noticed something spraying on the windshield. My wife pumped the clutch and I was relieved to see that the hydraulic hose has a leak in it near the end of the coupling, so I hopefully just need a new hose. Is there an easy way to get this part, do you think some kind of tape would hold it until a new hose can be found? thanks for the quick responses Tdog

The master cylinder was a little low of DOT 3 so I filled it up but the slave cylinder ( I assume this is the very small 3/4" cylinder with a small rod coming out of it) doesn't seem to want to go back each time. Yes, I can pull the clutch up with my foot but if I turn the ignition on it does it again. BTW, my wife drove the car yesterday and she hasn't drove a stick for years ( I hope she doesn't read this or Mr. Happy will be on bread and water for a month). Keep the suggestions coming please, where do i get these parts quickly. thanks Tdog

Fellers, 1997 OBW, 5 MT, 227k miles, I pulled into the entrance of our subdivision (thank goodness) and my clutch stayed on the floor, it wouldn't come back up. I know I have lots of miles on this car but the first owner drove 70 miles one way to work everyday so the miles are mostly highway. I had a clutch go out before on a Tbird turbocoupe so I know the signs of a clutch going out. The OBW shows no signs of the clutch giving out, is there a return spring of some kind that may have broke? Please help i'll be stranded at home tomorrow if I don't figure this out. After just shelling out $400 for exhaust work on our SVX I don't want to have to put more into another car after I got the OBW running great with new headgaskets and such. thanks for this board. Tdog67

What is the model # of the $2 NGK copper plugs you are using? When the autoparts stores check for NGK plugs this one does not come up. thanks Tdog '97 OBW 225k miles HG @ 191k

I recently replaced the ac belt and can not get it to completely tighten down and get a slight squealing when the car is first started. I can not find a tensioner bolt like most have, am I missing something here? help appreciated. Tracy

Fellers, I can not find any of the about $2 NGK plugs at any of the local parts stores. Is there a large chain that has them or a place on the internet I can order them? what model # plug would I need for the '97 OBW 2.5L? xiaxia Tdog

Should I tell him or you? Dude, join the club, you most likely have a leaky headgasket. Bite the bullet, change the water pump, timing belt, head gasket, thermostat and drive on for another 100k. sorry, tdog

Well, I did the ole ALT-CNRT-DEL for my car. I disconnected the battery terminals for about 15 minutes and the car runs fine now? I recently put in a Tornado unit in my air inlet line to see if the thing worked and thought perhaps the MAF may have to reset itself? BTW, i've been driving 4 hours down to Nashville, TN and had 2 very good identical comparasions with the Tornado. W/o I got 24.4 mpg all highway and this last trip I got 25.6 mpg all highway with the Tornado unit. I got it for $42 shipped off of ebay so i figured it was worth at least a try. But, after this latest episode I wonder if it messed with the MAF? any suggestions? tdog

Fellers, Last few mornings my '97 OBW has been starting with a very high idle (~2700 rpm). Today I go to run an errand and have the high-rev startup and when I start out of the driveway I have very little power at all! The engine shakes much more now at idle and when I rev it. What do ya think this could be? i'm hoping it's just some sensor or something. I had the headgasket, water pump, and timing belts done at 192k and now i am at 221k. Any ideas appreciated. tdog

Fellers, I was about to top off the tranny fluid in my '97 OBW Limited 5 speed when the manual says not to mix the gear oils. If i were to just drain the fluid and add new how much would she hold and what type of gear oil should I use? the car has 217k miles on the original tranny and I bought it with 182k miles and I have yet to change it. thanks tdog