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Tom0

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Everything posted by Tom0

  1. I can rip the one out of my parts car if you want, never had a problem with it when it was running. Might be better at wreckers up there though? not sure. Cheers, Tom
  2. That is them indeed, any idea if they use the same springs as standard shocks? No trouble if you're not sure I could stop being lazy and measure some but if you knew through part numbers haha. Cheers, Tom
  3. Made sure that the starter is all plugged in? Eg. that little spade connector? Could be the problem.
  4. Its a relay of sorts, called the fuel pump control unit, as well as being a relay it only sends current to the fuel pump when it sees a pulse from the coil (cranking/engine running) So, it could be bad or not seeing the pulses to tell it to power the fuel pump. Search usmb (with google) for fuel pump control unit (fpcu) and you will get more positive results then i could give.
  5. just finishing up on the restoration of my mag wheels, Before and after sandblasting http://puu.sh/gSHLL/72f5d7659a.jpg Got them powdercoated black, Didnt get a picture of them all black (unsure why not) haha Put them into a cnc mill, probed up to them recorded points then made up the profile of them http://puu.sh/gSIjl/d015177ae2.jpg Wheel in the cnc lathe being turned http://puu.sh/gSHYe/9569dd3783.jpg The outcome http://puu.sh/gSHQj/1f60e5e4e1.jpg missed small parts on a couple of them that I'm hand polishing out http://puu.sh/gSHRj/430a129a7d.jpg I'm pretty pleased with how they have turned out, and it hasn't cost me an arm and a leg which is good
  6. not even enough room for this, without the throttle body the wheel would probably just fit in. Could blank it and come out the top right angle onto the throttle body but like you say what would this do to performance? This was a great idea, but they are still too wide/ would be sticking out the hood. Cheers for the ideas guys Tom
  7. They seem to fit well (from el freddos thread) but have the smaller inlet/outlet like the ea series.
  8. Yeah I've seen a couple on there too, not sure if the intake changed at all and if so when though, i would imagine it did at some stage. Apparently it is quite easy to ditch a/c and flip the alternator over to its spot, although i would like to avoid that just to keep A/C even though its not really needed. Seems it might be possible without it. Probably try and get the swap done and running then deal with getting the spare under the hood. Yeah, i will be getting it certed, easy way to spend some coin but has to be done I spose. Once shes all running again you're more then welcome to see her.
  9. Was just wondering if anyone has managed to keep the spare wheel under the hood with an EJ swap? I would like to with mine and was just after any previous experience if anyone has done it. With the EJ in place it seems i either need to drop the intake ~2" so it will fit under the wheel (2" lift with 2" spacers) and maybe a block between TB and intake to angle it level or down slightly with this i run into the problem of 2" lift with 13" wheels, or get the intake away from the back all together, now I know they use flipped manifolds in later model subarus to shorten FMIC piping but I'm not sure about these early ones? If i tried flipping the intake my problem would be pipe to hood clearance over the alternator (also trying to keep A/C) on the bright side with a flipped intake my throttle cable would be the perfect length (nowhere near long enough at the moment). So, thoughts? Should i give up and just accept the spare wheels going to be in the cargo area? Cheers, Thomas
  10. Most I can figure is that its for the headlight washer/sprayers? http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/whats-relay-cleaner-cont-do.720132/ pretty much the same thing for 97-02 forester apparently http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-mk1-2-0T-EJ20-97-02-relay-cleaner-cont-/251588983097 So did carbed EA82's have a FPCU or just a fuel pump relay? Cheers, Thomas
  11. So Im splicing wires in for my ej swap (1984 carbed EA82) and I come across this thing http://puu.sh/gCupo/4435aa9542.jpg Up above the hood latch release (where I was expecting to find the FPCU) so I think, black box, above hood latch, must be it. But now I'm not too sure since it only has 4 wires and no mitsy diamond logos, and if this isn't my fpcu, where should I be looking? or have I got this all wrong and my car just has a fuel pump relay? Cheers, Thomas
  12. Pulled the dash on my wagon to start running some wires, and while doing so found this. http://puu.sh/gzKGZ/9627e25818.jpg http://puu.sh/gzKFG/51d1efed9a.jpg Probably not the best for air flow, more worried about the oily residue/grime though, might take it out, clean it, replace seals and re-install. -Tom
  13. Found out today with my own gearbox, make sure the main shaft is pushed hard into the casing. Without the transfer case and that 3/4 retaining ring the shaft pushes out and that can cause problems. Might not be that, but I had trouble with it today. Cheers, Tom
  14. Did the cambelt, waterpump, oil pump, clutch and oil separator on the ej20 going into my wagon, started putting the gearbox together, and pulled the motor & gearbox out of my wagon. Been a rather productive week. Also got my alloy wheels powdercoated, just waiting on a guy at work to have time to face the front of them.
  15. Never replied to this thread because I thought someone in the US might be more help. The ones I have on my wagon were made/from a NZ company called Airplex, looking through their website they still list headlight covers for the 85 onwards leone. http://www.airplex.co.nz/subaru/leone/1985-89.html Might not be your best option, but I suppose it is one. Tom
  16. It will be stamped onto the block, either EA81 or EA82. Not too hard to find.
  17. So, still ticking away at my ej swap and I'm just trying to sort out what I'm going to do as far as my radiator is concerned. All the radiators I have seen over here for the leone are plastic tanked single row things, which makes it hard to add larger ports for the ej hoses, and the two i have currently are in pretty rough shape (leaks and bent fins). The legacy radiator would take a bit more cutting then I think I'm willing to do to install. So as I see it, I could; get a custom radiator (which means getting another custom radiator if it breaks) and spending a fair chunk of coin. Then there's an xt6 wrecking which I could try and get the radiator from, pretty much the same size as ea, large ports, but then the same thing applies if it breaks, cheaper then a custom rad though. Or what I'm leaning to, is the BRZ radiator, roughly the same size as the ea, large ports, easier to fit, potentially better cooling and the advantage that if anything breaks, another brz radiator will bolt in. Now, the downside to the brz (at the moment atleast) i can't source one in NZ (except for one oem with delivery k's for $500) Or an aftermarket one early march. Which lead me to ebay, and this post. Now, since I'm probably going to get it off ebay and if it doesnt work out returns going to be pretty much a waste, if anyone has done it or can recommend a radiator I would like to know more. If no one really pipes up I will probably go with the cheapest brz rad shipped and give it a go with that. Anyway, some i have been looking at (pretty much cheapest on ebay+shipping to nz) Cheapest http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2013-2015-SU00301172-FITS-SUBARU-BRZ-SCION-FR-S-RADIATOR-1-ROW-/221581932248?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item33974ff6d8&vxp=mtr Next cheapest (has brand at least) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-1-Row-Plastic-Tank-Aluminum-Core-CSF-3569-/151562377074?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item2349d25772&vxp=mtr#shpCntId All aluminum http://www.ebay.com/itm/SICKSPEED-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-ALUMINIUM-RADIATOR-FOR-BRZ-FRS-2012-GT86-FR-S-TOYOTA-/111222456232?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item19e55fffa8&vxp=mtr Cheers for all those that looked Tom
  18. Think she plans on going the other way wagonist, engine from her loyale into the xt since her loyale was wounded. Tom
  19. Got seals for my gearbox in. Input, front shafts, D/R lever, rear output. Just waiting on the speedo one, should be in tomorrow hopefully. Then I can put my gearbox together . Looking at adding neutral switch to it also. Tom
  20. I know it's just my opinion but I sort of like the way he's kept the wagon hatch line over the top of the lights, I can also see how the usual ute tailgate look has its appeal though. Just something else about it that makes it look unique. Tom
  21. Man, what an ideal place for the oil filter. +1 for easy to access.
  22. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-815426944.htm I really do not need another car, but this Justy is just so damn tidy, testing my strength ahah. Fixed a really bad wobble on the sedan today, front left tyre had gone FUBAR, ripped down inner side. Going to finally get my mags tidied and buy a set of shoes for her i think Tom
  23. After cleaning them up a bit and seeing how the gears all fit into the legacy case seems pretty good, the legacy gear selectors are slightly larger so i might swap them, need to get rid of the legacy detent spring and ball holder for dual/range since the leone fork hits into it stopping the cases seating together. Figure out swapping the speedo bits over. then once it all fits and works, set up backlash and contact patterns, that will be fun. Unfortunately I had to (probably could of left it there but it might of been a bit rude) bring it all home since I'm going to Auckland for work for 3 weeks, so nothing new is going to happen for awhile which is a bit annoying, but ahwell. Tom
  24. So, after a couple days of a couple hours after work I got both the trans split. Hardest part was taking the transfer/centre diff section off the back, after I found Gloyales write up (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117820-easy-transmission-front-seal-replacement/) And saw that 10mm bolt that had to come out for the tail section to slide off it wasn't too bad, although taking that bolt out of the leone case was a pain compared to the legacy one, a 1/4in t bar extension and wobbly worked just enough. The legacy one I could get with my 3/8 set. Leone box http://puu.sh/cReKs/94e8801522.jpg Legacy http://puu.sh/cReLm/57e2176e78.jpg At the moment I'm not sure if i just swap the main gear, d/r selector and speedo gear and the rest is fine or if i swap everything. Think i will end up swapping everything(including shifter forks?), need to swap the output stubs anyway to smaller spline. Anyway, i was really pleased when I got them apart haha. And they don't seem too complex just yet, mostly because they're still together i suppose. Tom
  25. Split the engine and transmission apart today, was a bit of a pain with the alignment pins being slightly corroded but wasn't too bad. Although one pin stayed in the trans, the other in the engine. Both gearboxes in the back of my wagon http://puu.sh/cKH1c/d0850f4ce2.jpg Legacy on the bottom, Leone on the top. Time for the part that has me slightly nervous, opening them up and swapping the insides. Would hate to do it and mess it up, but I'll just have to go slow and be careful with it all. Tom
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