uss_essess

Anyone out there know the diameter of the exhaust piping between the cat and muffler on a 1985 Brat? The car is out in the boonies, so I don't have easy access to it, and I would like to save myself a lot of driving.

Did you ever get an answer for this? Looking into swapping mine out.

Ugh. I am in the same boat and I feel your pain. The local shop wants $1500 plus 10-15 hours of labor to replace the entire harness from the ECU back. I love the car, but....

Help! I need a new pin for one of these 6 wire connectors. Anyone know the part number or where to find one? Willing to buy the whole connector if needed. Thanks!

Ugh. So my step-dad fiddled around with it today, and now she runs. He says all he did was recharge the battery and clean up the terminals. God I hate him. lol. Runs with both the old and new ECU. They both give 6 short blinks of the LED. Is that the norm? Still not getting a CEL or Oil Pressure light. Am I right in assuming that they should come on with the key in the ON position? I know the CEL bulb still works. Everything else seems to work, except the stereo. Will take it out for a test run tomorrow and see how she drives.

So I threw a new ECU and fusible link in there. Still no dice. I got all my dash lights back, but my CEL still does not come on. Is it possible my ECU is not getting power? How/where would I check that? When I turn my key, my tachometer jumps up to 2k-3k rpm and stays there constantly. Anyone else ever have that problem? What could cause that? I checked all my fuses, and all were fine except my Horn/Hazards/Clock fuse. Replaced it, and got all three back in one form or another. My horn seems to work fine, but my hazards/turn signals both come on solid and stay that way, and my clock will light up, but doesn't appear to be working. I will switch out the flasher and see if that fixes it. Radio is also dead, despite the fuse testing fine. Looks like I may have toasted that as well. Oh Joy.

Finally got my 1989 GL NA 5psd d/r IM'd, got down to the DMV to get it registered, and just my luck, as I go to leave with my brand new tags and registration, she wouldn't start. FML. Turned over a couple times and then gave up. So I took the battery out, got a ride home, charged it up overnight, and came back the next morning in the dark and on no sleep, and proceeded to put the battery in backwards and tried to start her. Oops. I got nothing. No lights of any kind, no horn, wipers, etc. The only thing that I could find that DID still work were the electric door locks. Got it towed home, and took a look. Here is what I know so far. The black fusible link is toast. It looks like the PO tried to 'fix' it with a wire nut. When I pulled the red fusible link out and used it to replace the black one, I got all my dash lights back, except my CEL. I had read that might mean I fried the ECU. Does that sound right? My headlights and horn were also not working. When I put the red link back, and jumped the black link all I got was a whine and the tach jumped to about 2k rpm. Not sure where to go from here, except to check all the fuses and replace the ECU and fusible links. Gonna replace the battery, and probably my battery cables as well. I pulled my starter and alternator and had them tested, and both were fine. What else should I check or replace? Also, my ECU has a part number '22611 AA392'. How close of a match do I need to find to replace it with? Will any late 80's NA spfi w/a MT do? As for fusible links, what is the best source for those? I know I can buy fusible link wire online of the same size (1.25 mm^2) and make my own, but would that work? Are they all rated for the same amperage? Or would I be better off just grabbing one from another car? I don't know of any junk yards to go poking around in up here, which sucks, since we have a ton of old gen subarus still hanging on up here. I know we have a couple Alaskans hanging out on the boards, so do any of you know of a good place to go for old parts in or around Anchorage?

It's a 1989 SPFI GL, no codes. Passed easily at 2500 RPM, but failed at Idle. Here be the numbers: Idle (926rpm): Hydrocarbons (PPM) Limit - 750 Actual - 965 - FAIL! CO (%) Limit - 1.00 Actual - 1.05 - FAIL! CO2% - 12.8 O2% - 0.48 2500 RPM (2465rpml): Hydrocarbons (PPM) Limit - 750 Actual - 160 CO (%) Limit - 1.00 Actual - 0.26 CO2% - 12.6 O2% - 9.61 Now to the question portion. Why am I so far over at idle, and what can I do to fix it? Any thoughts would be great. Thanks in advance for any help.

Where can I pick up one of these kits? I need to have the car out of the garage by tomorrow, and I don't look forward to working on it in the cold. Also, do these kits come with an IAC gasket?

Namely the one pictured here, which sits between the injector cap and injector. Haven't been able to find one online, and I tore my old one.

I have made a couple of long distance ea-82 trips back to Alaska (from Oregon and New Jersey) and only stopped for gas every 3-5 hours. After that it was right back on the road again. Didn't seem to bother the cars any.

I am having an intermittent CEL, and the ECU is flashing codes 24 (Air Control Valve or Circuit) and 34 (EGR Solenoid or Circuit). I also got 11 (Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit) and 14 (Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output) out of the stored codes. The car seems to be running fine, just need to give it a little gas in the morning, but I just wanted to ask how worried I should be about these codes. I am getting ready to drive from Oregon to Alaska, and do not want to run into trouble. Any help would be great. (Also, anyone know where I can find an in stock bolt on muffler for an '89 GL 4wd Wagon somewhere between Albany, OR and Seattle?)

The GF and I will be down there on the 13th, and might be interested in meeting up with anyone in the area. Should be there for 3-4 days, maybe a week, before we start back up for AK. I would also appreciate any recommendations for a good, nearby Subaru shop, as I would like to have the car checked out before I trust it to get us back through the Middle Of Nowhere, Canada.

It's not just AutoZone. I buy at Schuck's (or Checker/Kragen depending on what part of the country you live in), but I always buy shop their website (partsamerica.com) as their prices are usually lower than the in store prices. Probably because the local prices factor in the higher shipping costs to AK. I either buy online and pick up locally, or print out the item and bring the paper into the store, and they match the price. I have even had them give me the website price plus a 5% discount to beat the 'competition'. I have even had them refund part of my purchase price because the in store price just happened to be lower than the online price.